I've got to say, this is one of my favorite videos you guys have done. Specifically, I like that you incorporated how to test for weakness, which I know you've done in previous videos. I also SUPER appreciated Part 4: Proper Lower Trap Engagement on the Wall. It's awesome to see a PT talking about specific muscle groups, how they apply to climbing technique, and then a physical demonstration of how they apply. It felt like a more targeted Anatomy of the Climb.
new subscriber, I'm so grateful to you guys for this PT centric climbing channel. I was struggling with pain in my neck and your vids are a huge resource for exercises that keep us healthy. I mean, that's the ultimate project, right? Maintain health to keep doing the things we love. Thank you for strengthening our foundation, from the ground up!!!!!!!
I feel compelled to notify that the title is missing a fundamental part, certainly from an editing oversight: Why LOWER TRAPS AND FRIENDS are Important for Climbers & How to Train Them (+ 2 STRENGTH TESTS and multiple -failed- friendship tests )
Hi Hooper! Recently been identifying a weakness of mine to be getting in and out of small boxes. It would be great to see a video about this and what muscles are important for it.
Youre my hero. I was filming myself yesterday and noticed my bag is hugely imbalanced this nailed exactly why and how to fix it. Hopefully this reduces my plaguing rotator cuff issues and back issues.
The "quadruped shoulder flexion with opposite arm" exercise here is also well-known in lifting & bodyweight fitness communities as the "trap 3 raise". It's commonly done standing but bent over a bench, and with an emphasis on scapular retraction and depression to activate the lower trapezius maximally.
I started watching this channel to slowly amass a vast wealth of training knowledge for when I start trying to compete and train properly and what I've essentially learnt is that face pulls fix everything xD
Great video! Training lower traps is must for climbers but not only for climbers. I have been doing it for quite long time and it changed my life. No more shoulder pain, better posture. Highly recommended.
One big thing to note with the face pull exercise is to keep the shoulders down ( no shrug). I find that very challenging (I also have limited mobility in my shoulders)
Absolutely :) We want to engage the mid and lower traps really well while avoiding a significant compensation in the upper traps (shrugging). Great exercise but you're correct, good to be aware of that!
Thank you , I have a knot just to the left and center of my right shoulder blade. I have been trying to stretch it with a pole behind my back, and I am so tight, so I did your test and my arms come off the wall. The knot is painful. Thank you again from an (old guy lone wolf):)
I had a rotator cuff injury and did a lot of strengthening of them. They then started to get very stiff when I was moving from a overhead position. I started stretching them and strengthening them more. No luck. Then I thought, maybe they are getting too strong for the other scapula muscles? I started doing the D2 with cables and it immediately got better and the stiffness was gone in a month. Care for the lower trap people :)
I'm new to climbing, and am also a perfect example of why it's important to use the full word: Trapezius, or trap muscle. lol I thought traps were a type of climbing technique or something xD
Hi, I'm relatively new to sport climbing but I've been swimming for many years. Could you please tell me how swimming and climbing overlap in terms of muscle use? Thank you, this is way the most informative channel on climbing out there, great work!!
yeah, that is a really straightforward question xD... just climb and you will learn your strengths and weaknesses :) you will also notice that the finger strength training that you did while swimming, doesn't corelate all that well to climbing :P
Question about hangboarding and your video breaking down emils 30 day routine: If stiffness (improves max strength) and compliance (improves tendon health) exist on a continuum does this mean that we are constantly undoing one or the other through training, ie taking steps backward by one or the other metric? Or does a compliance block after a max strength block improve tendon health without reducing our maximum strength? How does tendon hypertrophy fit in? Is the primary aspect by which we make permanent forward progress in tendon strength and health at the same time through additional tendon hypertrophy? My thoughts are creating a regime where i cycle the stiffness and compliance training throughout the year maybe 2 weeks on emils routine into 2 weeks into stiffness. maybe applying Stiffness and Compliance training into 1 rounded routine could be the most optimum, or a Stiffness regime in the morning and compliance in the evening? Or maybe the best way is to cycle it into pre / post / during the season. WOuld be great to get a reply, love the channel, thanks!
Same day or even 2 weeks is not long enough to try and cycle stiffness vs compliance. a 4 week cycle for block training is more standard, and can go up to 6 weeks. Introducing cycles / block training into your climbing training is a wonderful idea and can have great results, but make sure to write things down and taper your expectations during the healing or rebuilding blocks so you don't create frustration or worse, an injury when you're trying to heal.
@@HoopersBeta thank you for the reply mate! Im thinkingg then 4-6 week block training as you said, 5 days a week on training days and 2 days complete rest, maybe have a full week rest off the hangboard inbetween blocks too? Maximising healing and preparing for the shift of stiffness vs compliance
Hey! Love your videos, and the filmmaking team behind them must be great! I was going to ask: I have pain on my left lower trap and it feels like it is under the scapula. It gets irritated when I do pull ups or anything overhead but has not gone away for a week. Any tips? :)
That's all Emile! He does all of the editing / producing! Fantastic work I agree. Try working on some mobility of the spine / shoulders before the pull ups and test your subscapularis and/or serratus anterior and see if those are part of the problem.
Quadrupet exercise is very good, but easy to cheat, so anyone trying it try to have tension in lower traps for the whole movement. Start with low weight, it's hard
Hello Sir, is it safe for me to train my fingers and practice guitar on the same day in terms of tendon health? Are there any long term effects I need to be aware of?
This is the most underrated climbing channel, we love you Hooper!
Thank you! Glad you are enjoying the content :)
we do love you!
yeah, Hooper is cool. A bit of dorky, but cool.=)
Agree.
I've got to say, this is one of my favorite videos you guys have done. Specifically, I like that you incorporated how to test for weakness, which I know you've done in previous videos. I also SUPER appreciated Part 4: Proper Lower Trap Engagement on the Wall. It's awesome to see a PT talking about specific muscle groups, how they apply to climbing technique, and then a physical demonstration of how they apply. It felt like a more targeted Anatomy of the Climb.
Awesome! Happy to hear that. We will have to make a few more with some other important muscles!
Hahhaha "those of you without friends". This video was too real
new subscriber, I'm so grateful to you guys for this PT centric climbing channel. I was struggling with pain in my neck and your vids are a huge resource for exercises that keep us healthy. I mean, that's the ultimate project, right? Maintain health to keep doing the things we love. Thank you for strengthening our foundation, from the ground up!!!!!!!
Thanks so much! Appreciate the support :)
I feel compelled to notify that the title is missing a fundamental part, certainly from an editing oversight: Why LOWER TRAPS AND FRIENDS are Important for Climbers & How to Train Them (+ 2 STRENGTH TESTS and multiple -failed- friendship tests )
Haha yes that part is important 😅
Hi Hooper! Recently been identifying a weakness of mine to be getting in and out of small boxes. It would be great to see a video about this and what muscles are important for it.
Youre my hero. I was filming myself yesterday and noticed my bag is hugely imbalanced this nailed exactly why and how to fix it. Hopefully this reduces my plaguing rotator cuff issues and back issues.
Thanks, this will probably help with my pull ups too, cause I really failed the test (the one without friend :'( )
You are good stuff. Your channel will start taking off more and more. Love your videos!
The "quadruped shoulder flexion with opposite arm" exercise here is also well-known in lifting & bodyweight fitness communities as the "trap 3 raise". It's commonly done standing but bent over a bench, and with an emphasis on scapular retraction and depression to activate the lower trapezius maximally.
I started watching this channel to slowly amass a vast wealth of training knowledge for when I start trying to compete and train properly and what I've essentially learnt is that face pulls fix everything xD
Haha, most things at least ;)
Great video! Training lower traps is must for climbers but not only for climbers. I have been doing it for quite long time and it changed my life. No more shoulder pain, better posture. Highly recommended.
I agree! Glad you find it to be useful! Thanks for commenting
One big thing to note with the face pull exercise is to keep the shoulders down ( no shrug). I find that very challenging (I also have limited mobility in my shoulders)
Absolutely :) We want to engage the mid and lower traps really well while avoiding a significant compensation in the upper traps (shrugging). Great exercise but you're correct, good to be aware of that!
As someone paranoid about getting injuries I appreciate this channel
Another great video! 😃
It’s so so informative, and so amazing, well done! Thank you
Extremely useful. Thank you
Awesome content! Perfect timing for focusing on fixing my shoulders! Found your channel and love soaking up the knowledge
I love this channel so much!!
totally love the energy !!
Heck, I've also said it a bunch of times - this channel needs more subscribers!
Work in progress ;)
would ring plank fly’s be a good exercise for this or climbing in general?
Thank you , I have a knot just to the left and center of my right shoulder blade. I have been trying to stretch it with a pole behind my back, and I am so tight, so I did your test and my arms come off the wall. The knot is painful. Thank you again from an (old guy lone wolf):)
I had a rotator cuff injury and did a lot of strengthening of them. They then started to get very stiff when I was moving from a overhead position.
I started stretching them and strengthening them more. No luck.
Then I thought, maybe they are getting too strong for the other scapula muscles?
I started doing the D2 with cables and it immediately got better and the stiffness was gone in a month.
Care for the lower trap people :)
I'm going to try these exercises on my next session, I really hope it helps my shneck pain...
Shneck yeah!
I'm new to climbing, and am also a perfect example of why it's important to use the full word: Trapezius, or trap muscle. lol I thought traps were a type of climbing technique or something xD
Thx 4 the vids!
Question could IYTs be a good alternative exercise? Seems similar to the second exercise?
Great stuff!
More excellent content. Well done guys 👏🤘😀
yet another invaluable video for anyone but incredible for a spt
That was fast (after the neck visio), thanks!
12:28 did he say bert kershner!!!!
Hi, I'm relatively new to sport climbing but I've been swimming for many years. Could you please tell me how swimming and climbing overlap in terms of muscle use? Thank you, this is way the most informative channel on climbing out there, great work!!
yeah, that is a really straightforward question xD... just climb and you will learn your strengths and weaknesses :) you will also notice that the finger strength training that you did while swimming, doesn't corelate all that well to climbing :P
Question: I already deadlift as part of my strength training. Should I add these exercises or would it be overkill?
Definitely not overkill especially if that's a weak point for you!
@@HoopersBeta thank you!!!!
Wow, that was so useful and specific. And thankfully you got rid of those cheezy little Simpsons etc clips. Well done.
Question about hangboarding and your video breaking down emils 30 day routine:
If stiffness (improves max strength) and compliance (improves tendon health) exist on a continuum does this mean that we are constantly undoing one or the other through training, ie taking steps backward by one or the other metric? Or does a compliance block after a max strength block improve tendon health without reducing our maximum strength?
How does tendon hypertrophy fit in? Is the primary aspect by which we make permanent forward progress in tendon strength and health at the same time through additional tendon hypertrophy?
My thoughts are creating a regime where i cycle the stiffness and compliance training throughout the year maybe 2 weeks on emils routine into 2 weeks into stiffness. maybe applying Stiffness and Compliance training into 1 rounded routine could be the most optimum, or a Stiffness regime in the morning and compliance in the evening? Or maybe the best way is to cycle it into pre / post / during the season.
WOuld be great to get a reply, love the channel, thanks!
Same day or even 2 weeks is not long enough to try and cycle stiffness vs compliance. a 4 week cycle for block training is more standard, and can go up to 6 weeks. Introducing cycles / block training into your climbing training is a wonderful idea and can have great results, but make sure to write things down and taper your expectations during the healing or rebuilding blocks so you don't create frustration or worse, an injury when you're trying to heal.
@@HoopersBeta thank you for the reply mate! Im thinkingg then 4-6 week block training as you said, 5 days a week on training days and 2 days complete rest, maybe have a full week rest off the hangboard inbetween blocks too? Maximising healing and preparing for the shift of stiffness vs compliance
Definitely doing these tests during my training session today! Time to feel weak. Haha
Haha good luck!
@@HoopersBeta Lower traps: Savage weakness confirmed.
@@RFrecka haha sorry to hear that! Better get to training
@@HoopersBeta Way ahead of ya. Trap training is go.
This video will add a lot to my training but the most valuable contribution might be the word "Shneck"
I concur
FYI, "schneck" is french slang for "pussy"
Informative and funny!
3:21 "Being bad at climbing" 😂
Hey! Love your videos, and the filmmaking team behind them must be great! I was going to ask: I have pain on my left lower trap and it feels like it is under the scapula. It gets irritated when I do pull ups or anything overhead but has not gone away for a week. Any tips? :)
That's all Emile! He does all of the editing / producing! Fantastic work I agree. Try working on some mobility of the spine / shoulders before the pull ups and test your subscapularis and/or serratus anterior and see if those are part of the problem.
@@HoopersBeta thank you!
Cool video.
I have a labral tear on my right shoulder do u recommend to do surgery? If yes, can i climb again after recovery? Thanks!
That's more of a question for a doctor not youtube comment section.
0:18 body language goes woosh. quite exemplary :D
Lol. That’s me, no friends. Thanks for including me.
Ah when I try the wall slides my rear delts feel like they are super tight / working like crazy
Quadrupet exercise is very good, but easy to cheat, so anyone trying it try to have tension in lower traps for the whole movement. Start with low weight, it's hard
Too true! Definitely start with low weight and progressively advance. Great comment!
So this is why my neck and shoulder hurts!
I can’t even get my arms flush against the wall( when my arms are in the L position)
Time for some mobility/strength work :)
Hello Sir, is it safe for me to train my fingers and practice guitar on the same day in terms of tendon health? Are there any long term effects I need to be aware of?
TIL my traps weak AF and I have no friends
Maybe there needs to be a club for this? :)
@@HoopersBeta where we all get strong lats and become friends!? Sign me up!
"Shneck" trust me, im a doctor
algorithm likes comments
I might be in love with you
Other complications: Being bad at climbing. LOL
Hmmm, that certainly does complicate matters! lol :)
Hooper, stop trying to make shneck happen. It's not going to happen
Don't kill my dreams! 😅
Would shoulder shrugs on the finger board also work for the lower traps?