Seems like Janja is training all the time and has little free time for promo stuff. Ive heard or read something like she reserves something like half a day each month to promo, the rest is training. (might have been in The Crux Nat Geo video) Maybe after she retires :)
I just participated in a mixed gender comp that was split into 3 style categories: power, coordination and technique. About 70% of participants were men and the finals had a girl in every category still, so fairly representative. The girls kicked ass and had super unique solutions to problems.
I am an official judge for FPME (portuguese climbing association) and I once judged a kids comp (6-10 yo) and there was a small girl that finished top5 as 6 yo and being so small, the boulder I was judging was by far better if you were a tall kid and she was so small that she found her own beta while crimping footholds! I was astonished! There are super strong girls out there
@@SCOclimbing true but until puberty there is no real difference in build and strength in boys and girls so that it not really indicative in how it would work for women/men
I toally agree that Colin is probably the most explosive climber in the field rn. One dream scenario I always want to see is Colin & Tomoa setting a problem for each other
If Magnus could get Janja in a mixed comp, I'm buying a Boulder bag, chalk bag and harness pants. Janja is a beast. I'd love to see just how strong she really is
Should be fairly easy. Magnus can for sure pull of some good promo and raise good price money to get the athletes interested. A total bag of 30k would already be ten times more than what they get at a world cup.
would be good idea but I think the idea is they want to know how she would do against the top competing climbers at the moment I think he should do both haha but I think right now janja would prob blow away magnus but it would be cool to see it against people like tomoa,adam ondra and toby roberts
Yeah, he was talking about it in one of the videos on his second channel, a few months ago. Apparently he's been trying to get her for quite a while. People in his comments frequently call for him to get Janja on & he said if it was up to him, it would have happened a long time ago
The IFSC should really make content after bouldering worldcups where Janja tries out the men's problems. The dynos might be far but she is very dynamic and her technique and balance is at another level as well. But what makes her standout the most in my eyes is her problem solving skills. She just sees problems with a different light so it will be super entertaining to see her tackle men's problems
It would be really interesting to see a mixed competition, to see the different ways to climb a boulder between men and women, the perks and the cons of each genders.
I would love to see this. I would pay to see this. Put up the top three women against a few top men and set the boulders for creative technical climbing suited for women and men alike. make it a charity event, make it a pattern or tie it to buying merchandise. I'm in.
I'm convinced Janja could climb Silence, Perfecto mundo, Dawn Wall, basically anything she wants. She has the best movement and intuition of any climber male or female, on top of the crazy power she has.
People here speculating however they prefer to believe while Janja flying around the world, being on the crag or amongst the audience, enjoying the well-deserved post-olympic off-season however she likes.
I think if we have a comp where the boulders are more old school and pull hard, Janja would be on level footing with male competitors. She has the strength and oftentimes better techniques, and her mental game is an anomaly. I don’t think she’ll fare as well against men when boulders are super explosive.
Why would they set neutral? That would say that ai mori has always been in a disadvantage and that she doesn’t lack power but it is the setting that is bad for her
Thats actually what had happened. Many times she couldn’t reach start hold. Kinda unfair but it is, shat it is. Therefore Janja wouldn’t have a chance in open category
I've been trying to buy the harness pants for a year and everytime I look, medium and large are ALWAYS out of stock? I see a video posted 2 hours ago advertising the exact pants I want to buy, but the most common sizes are ALWAYS gone. In every color. You'd think at some point Magnus would simply stock more medium and large, especially when running an AD. MAGNUS PLEASE, I WANT TO BUY THE PANTS!
All athletes competing against eachother regardless of gender is not a problem for the athletes or their performances themselves, but more about competition format and the difficulty of having boulders that need to fit an immense range of biological factors such as raw power, leg explosivity, height etc. We are at a point I think where the only difficulty is in the organizing and setting teams and ifsc not about atheletes "not being good enough" to compete with each other.
You just argued against your own point but very successfully, differences need to be accounted for which is not how competitions to establish the best.
@@shanequastunningbrave5376 Like they already account for differences within a gender or age group depending even on if its quali/semis/finals They would just need to do it more and more intelligently even
@@lockwell4298 You're admitting there are differences and special treatment is needed and even more changes in an attempt to even it up, that's not how competition and no women would still make the finals
Well, but they are. Just check average outcome and see whether it is feasible. "Beasts" exist in any competition, regardless of gender and body building. There are records, which are still beaten for decades because some people hit jackpot in genetics and they were found to be strong in what they do. But if you look on average numbers it will be much more "realistic" of what people can and cannot do and whether it is feasible to make open competitions.
Janja in 2020 she competed at the 2020 Studio Bloc Masters (the year before dominating the Toyko Olympics) where the men and women competed on the same boulders. Were she in the men's competition, she would have finished 43rd in a field that is not a full strength world cup.
@@OmniviumVelocity they climbed the same qualis darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/SBM-2020_ergebnis_quali_herren.pdf darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/SBM-2020_ergebnis_quali_damen.pdf
I feel like Janja just doesn't really care about meeting new people or doing youtube videos or anything like that. She barely does any of that with others as well. Or maybe she feels a bit uncomfortable to do something like that? I dunno. Either way, she might eventually start to develop an interest in teaching or just explaining everything she has learned in her career. Especially as she will grow older.
She just trains and competes. Doesn't want to do anything else. If they drag her in to it (like they did for some pre-olympics interviews/segments) she'll try to put on a smile and some enthusiasm but it's obvious she's just there because she has to be this one time.
She and her team have been very prudent in choosing what kind of media exposure she will be in.They must have a set of standards for that. Plus she has her own projects and schedules to work on.
How about an international mixed team competition? Like, each country has one team composed of one woman and one man, they all climb the same problems or routes, and the points from both members add up. It’d be interesting to see men and women face off the same difficulties but the focus wouldn’t be on which gender is the best, rather which team or country is, just like the olympics.
I love watching janja, she's a beast, but she's a woman and she's a beast against women. I don't think she would have chance against men, they are so much powerful (and same amount of tecnique) and the amount of strenght required for man's boulders is crazy.
@@riccardoflorian6260 I think depending on the setting she could do well but I agree that men just have to much power. It's sad but it's a simple fact of genetics. I definitely do think it makes less of a difference in climbing though compared to other sports.
No offence, but if put Janja with men, what about other girls? We're already going into making every comp, just a dyno-cordination problems and one slab! So she would be the only one capable of doing men boulders, because she's so powerful, but imo, she would struggle to make every finals, basically like all male competitors do! How many times people like Adam, Tomoa, Jacob, Toby, Mejdi, Yoshiuki, Sorato, etc didn't make finals just because on that day, they were slightly "off" and someone else like Dohyun, Sam, Sohta, Paul, Colin, etc were slightly "on" She would be "just" one of the best, not the best!
@@ejl74this is evident in a training camp video where the Slovenian and German teams train together. They rotated on the same sets and you can see janja struggle on the ones the men took a few tries to do. That being said, she was basically the only woman who could even get near the top so she has a chance
@@mrmonsterhunter808 The competition format might be in her favour. If it's just dynamic moves she has a shot to make finals, but I don't think she really gives the men a run for their money in the finals.
not much of a difference in climbing? Common. It's the same difference. 10% between absolute max and then a much larger difference between the mean. Janja is is the absolute max and is amazing. Put her next to the mean and she crushes. It's still the same spread.
I dunno, I wish people didn't insist on doing this, like with Serena Williams in tennis. There's a reason men and women compete separately, so someone as great as Janja can stand alone, and not be damned with faint praise like "oh she was only 8 spots away from making finals!"
See the thing is that climbing really is different though. The level disparity is still there, but we have measurable differences between these climbers, and janja's max grades are higher than a lot of the competitors in the men's section.
The gender gap in climbing is microscopic. Lynn Hill was the best climber in the world for a while. I think that the gender gap that you might see can be mostly chalked up to he fact that more boys are comp climbing.
I think it is interesting to explore. Defenitely, there are differences between the genders, but whether for climbing specifically that is so apparent would be interesting. I'm not saying we should only do mixed comps, but just seeing qhat would happen would be neat.
I got a chance to boulder in a gym with some professional female climbers after a charity event a decade and a half ago. On the overhung problems we were at about the same level. These weren't indoor comp climbers, that wasn't very popular back then, but I was just some random guy that loved climbing. It is not fair, even if she is the best of the best female there is a reason sports have gender division. Even chess splits by gender, a game with no physical component, and yet the very top chess players in the world always happen to be men. I did track in highschool and as a freshman they had us try out all events, with no effort I could beat every single female in the school at any event, and yet compared to the men I was just above average. Men and women are built different.
I think she can make to the finals too. Winning gold it's iffy, even among male athletes there is so much competition that no one appears consistently dominant. Janja is definitely shorter compared to the men and that will be a huge factor. I see too the coordination dynos are not quite as powerful among women's boulders
Janja is incredibly strong, but not that strong. Probably about similar level as Magnus, maybe slightly higher thanks to her competivness. For the context Janja done 3 9a, Adam over 200.
Janja would be a middling male athlete and that would be a great success. I find this idea that the sporting gender gap can be closed counter-productive. Women have a different category because we have a significant biological disadvantage. It shouldn't diminish women's achievements at all, top athletes push the limits of what is possible for THEIR bodies.
I mean in one of her post world Cup win interviews she said she dreams of combined men and women comps because according to her, men and women are not that far apart. She doesn't seem the type to be just talk, and no matter what some of the comments here say - I would trust the strongest female climber in the world if she says that men and women are fairly close climbing wise 😅
This is another example where the hype train makes people delusional. Yes yes, Janja is GOAT female champ, but she would not get into finals of a men's comp let alone win it.
That hype might be the reason why such a comp is not so likely to happen. When you organize an event for youtube, you want the guest to look good. Janja is absolutely dominating, but making her compete with men is not going to make her look as good as the unreasonable expectations people have for her. Something like that happened in tennis, where Serena Williams attempted to play with the 200th man in the world. That did not look good. There might be less men/women difference in climbing than in tennis, but that's still a very risky display.
I found this one video interesting, where she climbed a tower with artificial holds, together with Domen. He is a great climber, but far from top league and he did some moves easily, where she struggled.
Think Magnus is very mistaken, don't think Janja would ever make finals in bouldering, probably not even semis. Perhaps in lead she would. And let's be honest, if she really could, we would know by now.
She doesn't even qualify for the finals guys cmon. Every single sport men dominate, but boulder, one of the most overal physical, she would be able to compete?
I think climbing is one of the sports in which men and women are not as far apart as people like to believe. I would love to know why you’re more qualified than a these two tho to tell us why you think she would not even qualify for finals lmao
@tristanmurphy7337 because they have a PR agenda to fill. Serena Williams is the female goat but cant even beat semi pro men, but Janja can compete with the world top 10 men? Use your common sense.
@@darkkeijp if you’re referring to the match she played against the number 203 in the world (who is definitely a professional still by the way) I encourage you to look into the details a bit more as there is a lot to unpack with that match. And importantly/obviously we are talking about climbing here not tennis lol. Sure you are competing against the other athletes but first and foremost it is you vs. the problem/route. Power to weight ratio needs to be considered. I’m not saying by any means that she will win every time or that she will be top 3 every time. But I think with the assumptions they made in the video more equal height/style setting that you would be surprised at just how close it would be between them. Maybe I’m right maybe I’m wrong but I think for you to discount the opinion of people that objectively have more experience in the field is ridiculous. Maybe take your own advice and use some common sense👍🏻
megos and ondra are like bottom of the barrel in terms of final qualifiers, they don't even qualify half the time. Better comparison would be Tomoa, Sorato, Meichi, etc.
I think it's stupid to put her on the same level as men, men's comps are much much more competitive than the women's and it's even hard to predict a men's finals starting list. Compared to the other women she would do really great, I don't think a single woman apart from her could do a single men's problem, but come on, no way she beats the like of tomoa, sorato, jakob, toby on any comp.
Such a woke take 😂 there are incedibly strong women out there, but… genetics are a thing. Wake me up when there is the firsr 8C+ or 9b+ female ascent. 💤 basically magnus is saying there is not much difference between 9b and 9c. Ok dude…. 😂
I understand what you are saying, but climbing comps aren't done on 8C boulders. They are easier grade wise (well within the capacity of top climbers, male or female), but have a high degree of "risk" and technicality. Janja clearly excels in this setting more than any other climber I have seen. It would be really interesting to see.
Not all men and women are the same, there are exceptions, that's why they are talking specifically about Janja, but I'll tell you something, you're a man and you can train as much as you want in your life and you wouldn't reach Janja's level
It's not an unreasonable question when Janja is so dominant in the women's field. With that said, it's hard to imagine she would make the finals in the men's even if we could some how normalize the boulders for height.
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I would really love to see the Magnus Janja collab happen one day.
Janja and Adam Ondra... 👌
.
we all want that colab
Seems like Janja is training all the time and has little free time for promo stuff. Ive heard or read something like she reserves something like half a day each month to promo, the rest is training. (might have been in The Crux Nat Geo video)
Maybe after she retires :)
@@beaulieu2 So he could join her for a training session
Me too want Adam janja and Magnus let’s go
I just participated in a mixed gender comp that was split into 3 style categories: power, coordination and technique. About 70% of participants were men and the finals had a girl in every category still, so fairly representative. The girls kicked ass and had super unique solutions to problems.
I am an official judge for FPME (portuguese climbing association) and I once judged a kids comp (6-10 yo) and there was a small girl that finished top5 as 6 yo and being so small, the boulder I was judging was by far better if you were a tall kid and she was so small that she found her own beta while crimping footholds! I was astonished! There are super strong girls out there
@@SCOclimbing true but until puberty there is no real difference in build and strength in boys and girls so that it not really indicative in how it would work for women/men
I toally agree that Colin is probably the most explosive climber in the field rn. One dream scenario I always want to see is Colin & Tomoa setting a problem for each other
Do it Magnus, I will buy a Rungne chalkbag if you do it! It is the comp everybody wants to see. Janja vs the boys. Please!
Nope Janja (and other female climbers if they want) AND the boys :D
If Magnus could get Janja in a mixed comp, I'm buying a Boulder bag, chalk bag and harness pants. Janja is a beast. I'd love to see just how strong she really is
Should be fairly easy. Magnus can for sure pull of some good promo and raise good price money to get the athletes interested. A total bag of 30k would already be ten times more than what they get at a world cup.
Magnus, meet Janja after a comp that still has the the men's problems/route on the wall. You both try them.
would be good idea but I think the idea is they want to know how she would do against the top competing climbers at the moment I think he should do both haha but I think right now janja would prob blow away magnus but it would be cool to see it against people like tomoa,adam ondra and toby roberts
Damn Magnus is really bummed that he can’t reach Janja. You can feel it, palpable.
Yeah, he was talking about it in one of the videos on his second channel, a few months ago. Apparently he's been trying to get her for quite a while. People in his comments frequently call for him to get Janja on & he said if it was up to him, it would have happened a long time ago
The IFSC should really make content after bouldering worldcups where Janja tries out the men's problems. The dynos might be far but she is very dynamic and her technique and balance is at another level as well.
But what makes her standout the most in my eyes is her problem solving skills. She just sees problems with a different light so it will be super entertaining to see her tackle men's problems
I think we can set a route for AI Mori that will be very hard (impossible) for men
Not really
It would be really interesting to see a mixed competition, to see the different ways to climb a boulder between men and women, the perks and the cons of each genders.
Magnus getting ghosted by Janja 🥲
I would love to see this. I would pay to see this. Put up the top three women against a few top men and set the boulders for creative technical climbing suited for women and men alike. make it a charity event, make it a pattern or tie it to buying merchandise. I'm in.
Underrated comment. Great idea!
She's an absolute beast.
I'd love to see it happen!!
I'm convinced Janja could climb Silence, Perfecto mundo, Dawn Wall, basically anything she wants. She has the best movement and intuition of any climber male or female, on top of the crazy power she has.
People here speculating however they prefer to believe while Janja flying around the world, being on the crag or amongst the audience, enjoying the well-deserved post-olympic off-season however she likes.
Janja and Yoshiyuki has a collab video with Adidas, a World Cup simulation. You can tell from that video that janja learnt that new move faster.
I think if we have a comp where the boulders are more old school and pull hard, Janja would be on level footing with male competitors. She has the strength and oftentimes better techniques, and her mental game is an anomaly. I don’t think she’ll fare as well against men when boulders are super explosive.
This is a question I've wanted an answer to for ages. I really want to see her crush in a mixed comp
0:36 what happened there
Why would they set neutral? That would say that ai mori has always been in a disadvantage and that she doesn’t lack power but it is the setting that is bad for her
Thats actually what had happened. Many times she couldn’t reach start hold. Kinda unfair but it is, shat it is. Therefore Janja wouldn’t have a chance in open category
YES!! PLEASE I HAVE BEEN WAITING TO SEE JANJA BEAT THE GUYS. PLEASE DO THIS
let's do it!
Please arrange that Magnus!
Rungne pants are INCREDIBLE, but they could use some larger pockets.
I've been trying to buy the harness pants for a year and everytime I look, medium and large are ALWAYS out of stock? I see a video posted 2 hours ago advertising the exact pants I want to buy, but the most common sizes are ALWAYS gone. In every color. You'd think at some point Magnus would simply stock more medium and large, especially when running an AD. MAGNUS PLEASE, I WANT TO BUY THE PANTS!
bro... if you click on the harness pants in the size and color you want, you can sign up to be emailed when they restock...
All athletes competing against eachother regardless of gender is not a problem for the athletes or their performances themselves, but more about competition format and the difficulty of having boulders that need to fit an immense range of biological factors such as raw power, leg explosivity, height etc.
We are at a point I think where the only difficulty is in the organizing and setting teams and ifsc not about atheletes "not being good enough" to compete with each other.
You just argued against your own point but very successfully, differences need to be accounted for which is not how competitions to establish the best.
@@shanequastunningbrave5376 What? They already do it, im co fused
@@shanequastunningbrave5376 Like they already account for differences within a gender or age group depending even on if its quali/semis/finals
They would just need to do it more and more intelligently even
@@lockwell4298 You're admitting there are differences and special treatment is needed and even more changes in an attempt to even it up, that's not how competition and no women would still make the finals
Well, but they are. Just check average outcome and see whether it is feasible. "Beasts" exist in any competition, regardless of gender and body building. There are records, which are still beaten for decades because some people hit jackpot in genetics and they were found to be strong in what they do. But if you look on average numbers it will be much more "realistic" of what people can and cannot do and whether it is feasible to make open competitions.
I remember seeing a comp that was men vs women. Alex Puccio was in it, but I can't find it again.
make it happen Magnus!
Janja outdoors sending a 9b+ route and V16 boulder would be cool!
She has to be one of the most busy athletes in the world.
Would be sick to watch her pull a Lynn Hill
Where is the podcast? Its not on Spotify and not on TH-cam??
Janja in 2020 she competed at the 2020 Studio Bloc Masters (the year before dominating the Toyko Olympics) where the men and women competed on the same boulders. Were she in the men's competition, she would have finished 43rd in a field that is not a full strength world cup.
Is this the one you're talking about? Because it shows the men and women climbing different boulders th-cam.com/video/UuVvDZKA2gk/w-d-xo.html
@@OmniviumVelocity darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/SBM-2020_ergebnis_quali_herren.pdf
darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/SBM-2020_ergebnis_quali_damen.pdf
@@OmniviumVelocity they climbed the same qualis darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/SBM-2020_ergebnis_quali_herren.pdf
darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/SBM-2020_ergebnis_quali_damen.pdf
@@OmniviumVelocity darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/SBM-2020_ergebnis_quali_herren.pdf
darmstadt.studiobloc.de/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/SBM-2020_ergebnis_quali_damen.pdf
@@OmniviumVelocity i think he ist talking about the qualification, where men and women had to climb the same boulders
Janja is awesome!
Janja...blinding realization...pure truth
Should make it both ways.. men and women routes mixed 🎉
I feel like Janja just doesn't really care about meeting new people or doing youtube videos or anything like that. She barely does any of that with others as well. Or maybe she feels a bit uncomfortable to do something like that? I dunno. Either way, she might eventually start to develop an interest in teaching or just explaining everything she has learned in her career. Especially as she will grow older.
She just trains and competes. Doesn't want to do anything else. If they drag her in to it (like they did for some pre-olympics interviews/segments) she'll try to put on a smile and some enthusiasm but it's obvious she's just there because she has to be this one time.
She's done a fair few good videos with fitness influencers recently.
She and her team have been very prudent in choosing what kind of media exposure she will be in.They must have a set of standards for that. Plus she has her own projects and schedules to work on.
How is this video 8 and a half minutes long and not just "oh, yeah. for sure"
How about an international mixed team competition? Like, each country has one team composed of one woman and one man, they all climb the same problems or routes, and the points from both members add up. It’d be interesting to see men and women face off the same difficulties but the focus wouldn’t be on which gender is the best, rather which team or country is, just like the olympics.
Janja claps the entire verse. Next question
She could defenetly compete and win amongst men. She's even taller than some of the shortest men in the circuit.
I love watching janja, she's a beast, but she's a woman and she's a beast against women. I don't think she would have chance against men, they are so much powerful (and same amount of tecnique) and the amount of strenght required for man's boulders is crazy.
@@riccardoflorian6260 I think depending on the setting she could do well but I agree that men just have to much power. It's sad but it's a simple fact of genetics. I definitely do think it makes less of a difference in climbing though compared to other sports.
I love projecting with female climbers because we tend to approach the problems so differently and lean into different strengths.
No offence, but if put Janja with men, what about other girls? We're already going into making every comp, just a dyno-cordination problems and one slab! So she would be the only one capable of doing men boulders, because she's so powerful, but imo, she would struggle to make every finals, basically like all male competitors do! How many times people like Adam, Tomoa, Jacob, Toby, Mejdi, Yoshiuki, Sorato, etc didn't make finals just because on that day, they were slightly "off" and someone else like Dohyun, Sam, Sohta, Paul, Colin, etc were slightly "on" She would be "just" one of the best, not the best!
Signed
I agree. No way would she keep up. She’s amazing at what she does!
@@ejl74this is evident in a training camp video where the Slovenian and German teams train together. They rotated on the same sets and you can see janja struggle on the ones the men took a few tries to do. That being said, she was basically the only woman who could even get near the top so she has a chance
@@mrmonsterhunter808 The competition format might be in her favour. If it's just dynamic moves she has a shot to make finals, but I don't think she really gives the men a run for their money in the finals.
Need to make it happen, for me she has a big chance that she will just win!
not much of a difference in climbing? Common. It's the same difference. 10% between absolute max and then a much larger difference between the mean. Janja is is the absolute max and is amazing. Put her next to the mean and she crushes. It's still the same spread.
I dunno, I wish people didn't insist on doing this, like with Serena Williams in tennis. There's a reason men and women compete separately, so someone as great as Janja can stand alone, and not be damned with faint praise like "oh she was only 8 spots away from making finals!"
See the thing is that climbing really is different though. The level disparity is still there, but we have measurable differences between these climbers, and janja's max grades are higher than a lot of the competitors in the men's section.
The gender gap in climbing is microscopic. Lynn Hill was the best climber in the world for a while. I think that the gender gap that you might see can be mostly chalked up to he fact that more boys are comp climbing.
I think it is interesting to explore. Defenitely, there are differences between the genders, but whether for climbing specifically that is so apparent would be interesting.
I'm not saying we should only do mixed comps, but just seeing qhat would happen would be neat.
I got a chance to boulder in a gym with some professional female climbers after a charity event a decade and a half ago. On the overhung problems we were at about the same level. These weren't indoor comp climbers, that wasn't very popular back then, but I was just some random guy that loved climbing. It is not fair, even if she is the best of the best female there is a reason sports have gender division. Even chess splits by gender, a game with no physical component, and yet the very top chess players in the world always happen to be men. I did track in highschool and as a freshman they had us try out all events, with no effort I could beat every single female in the school at any event, and yet compared to the men I was just above average. Men and women are built different.
@@Jeremy-yl2io so you would beat Janja in bouldering? 😂. Ok
Shed make it to finals imo
Absolutely zero chance even with preferred setting for her.
I think she can make to the finals too. Winning gold it's iffy, even among male athletes there is so much competition that no one appears consistently dominant. Janja is definitely shorter compared to the men and that will be a huge factor. I see too the coordination dynos are not quite as powerful among women's boulders
@@johnnguyen5681 you must be a very beginner climber 🙂
@@KK-6 nice try though:)
No way. Serena williams couldn't even beat a top 500 noname tennisplayer. There is no way she has a chance
its obvious if you look at their grades
Idk but my money will never bet against Janja or Tom Brady 🤷♂️
Janja is incredibly strong, but not that strong. Probably about similar level as Magnus, maybe slightly higher thanks to her competivness.
For the context Janja done 3 9a, Adam over 200.
Janja would be a middling male athlete and that would be a great success. I find this idea that the sporting gender gap can be closed counter-productive. Women have a different category because we have a significant biological disadvantage. It shouldn't diminish women's achievements at all, top athletes push the limits of what is possible for THEIR bodies.
Tell that to Lynn Hill
@@craigbritton1089 ok?
Janis is amazing, but she won’t win a men’s comp. Maybe she makes Semifinals. Which is a big accomplishment as is.
An open comp would be great to witness reality of gender differences.
You set it “neutral” all the tall athletic style men are climbing in a cage
i don't think it will ever happen that janja competes against men because otherwise it might destroy her myth. That wouldn't be good for business.
I mean in one of her post world Cup win interviews she said she dreams of combined men and women comps because according to her, men and women are not that far apart.
She doesn't seem the type to be just talk, and no matter what some of the comments here say - I would trust the strongest female climber in the world if she says that men and women are fairly close climbing wise 😅
@@RiversideM close in terms of technique yes probably, but on strength or explosivity no way
@@arielbadw1368 yes males are stronger but also heavier I believe.
This is another example where the hype train makes people delusional. Yes yes, Janja is GOAT female champ, but she would not get into finals of a men's comp let alone win it.
That hype might be the reason why such a comp is not so likely to happen. When you organize an event for youtube, you want the guest to look good. Janja is absolutely dominating, but making her compete with men is not going to make her look as good as the unreasonable expectations people have for her.
Something like that happened in tennis, where Serena Williams attempted to play with the 200th man in the world. That did not look good. There might be less men/women difference in climbing than in tennis, but that's still a very risky display.
I dunno, would be cool to find out. Maybe take some pressure off 😅
I found this one video interesting, where she climbed a tower with artificial holds, together with Domen. He is a great climber, but far from top league and he did some moves easily, where she struggled.
@@Bloxeh yeah she struggled with the pink dish dyno that he flashed, but he struggled with the black crimps that she flashed.
@@streetstaticsyeah that’s what I noticed
Think Magnus is very mistaken, don't think Janja would ever make finals in bouldering, probably not even semis. Perhaps in lead she would. And let's be honest, if she really could, we would know by now.
She doesn't even qualify for the finals guys cmon. Every single sport men dominate, but boulder, one of the most overal physical, she would be able to compete?
I think climbing is one of the sports in which men and women are not as far apart as people like to believe. I would love to know why you’re more qualified than a these two tho to tell us why you think she would not even qualify for finals lmao
@tristanmurphy7337 because they have a PR agenda to fill. Serena Williams is the female goat but cant even beat semi pro men, but Janja can compete with the world top 10 men? Use your common sense.
@@darkkeijp if you’re referring to the match she played against the number 203 in the world (who is definitely a professional still by the way) I encourage you to look into the details a bit more as there is a lot to unpack with that match. And importantly/obviously we are talking about climbing here not tennis lol. Sure you are competing against the other athletes but first and foremost it is you vs. the problem/route. Power to weight ratio needs to be considered. I’m not saying by any means that she will win every time or that she will be top 3 every time. But I think with the assumptions they made in the video more equal height/style setting that you would be surprised at just how close it would be between them. Maybe I’m right maybe I’m wrong but I think for you to discount the opinion of people that objectively have more experience in the field is ridiculous. Maybe take your own advice and use some common sense👍🏻
@@tristanmurphy7337what grade do you climb and highest level of competition
@@tristanmurphy7337 lets do the only reasonable thing we can and agree to disagree
In any World Cup, she wouldn’t have made it to the semifinals!
the ability difference between males and females is vast, i'd bet against her
Janah won’t win with mégos, ondra etc
megos and ondra are like bottom of the barrel in terms of final qualifiers, they don't even qualify half the time. Better comparison would be Tomoa, Sorato, Meichi, etc.
@@aydendonall836 she still won't be able to compete with those 2
I think it's stupid to put her on the same level as men, men's comps are much much more competitive than the women's and it's even hard to predict a men's finals starting list.
Compared to the other women she would do really great, I don't think a single woman apart from her could do a single men's problem, but come on, no way she beats the like of tomoa, sorato, jakob, toby on any comp.
Such a woke take 😂 there are incedibly strong women out there, but… genetics are a thing. Wake me up when there is the firsr 8C+ or 9b+ female ascent. 💤 basically magnus is saying there is not much difference between 9b and 9c. Ok dude…. 😂
I understand what you are saying, but climbing comps aren't done on 8C boulders. They are easier grade wise (well within the capacity of top climbers, male or female), but have a high degree of "risk" and technicality. Janja clearly excels in this setting more than any other climber I have seen. It would be really interesting to see.
Not all men and women are the same, there are exceptions, that's why they are talking specifically about Janja, but I'll tell you something, you're a man and you can train as much as you want in your life and you wouldn't reach Janja's level
Wait, so a man showing respect & admiration for a woman's ability is 'woke' now? 🤣
It's not an unreasonable question when Janja is so dominant in the women's field. With that said, it's hard to imagine she would make the finals in the men's even if we could some how normalize the boulders for height.
Luckily I think you'll see Janja send La Dura Dura in the next year so your 9b+ female fantasy should be fufilled