There was plenty in there, now you have overfilled it you just have a bunch in the middle doing nothing. I have heard the rumors of diffs not having oil in them but if this is what everyone is talking about I will not waste my time checking.
Lol theres a lot of air inside funny to see people defending something who is not right you canpletly see its completly underfill and can see the bottom of the diff cup dotn sptell me its enough fluid for a 8 diff
"dont be lazy use your hands". i can tell by your hands, you dont work with them, but for some people, who used their hands to feed a family for 20+years, using a power driver is the only way. its not always about lazy. you pound on ceramic tile for 20+ years & see if you get a little lazy
The problem with using power tools for that type of job, especially assembly is that its very easy to damage threads and castings.. that might be what he was thinking about
Are saying Traxxas engineers don't know what they doing? Like what someone else said look like plenty in it to me lot but nothing wrong if you want to change it out or fill it up,after all its yours do what you see fit :-)
Michael Daugherty exactly my point. Planetary gears aren’t torque biasing. Helical gears are. Standard gears want to push away from each other under torque. Helical cut gears want to push away and to opposite sides. The more torque ran through a helical diff makes the gears side load onto the case and resist spinning. This lock up effect gives helical differentials their name: torque biasing differentials. Depending on the pitch of the gear, they also have torque biasing ratios where a 3:1 would have the wheel with the most traction seeing 3x the torque of the wheel with the least. For example, one wheel has 50 ft lbs of resistance and the other has 500 ft lbs. one wheel will get 150 ft lbs of torque and the other would get 50ft lbs. wheel speed doesn’t equate to torque, it’s simply the rotational force. A locker is even better. Both wheels would receive up to 50 ft lbs evenly until the power unit reaches 100 ft lbs. then the weaker traction wheel would still get 50ft lbs and the other wheel would see up to 500ft lbs before they would even start spinning. What makes lockers dangerous is the rapid fluctuations of torque at each wheel causing extreme loading and unloading of driveline components. Imagine going from 10ft lbs to 1000 down to 30 and back up the 800 ft lbs all on one wheel hopping rotation.
If you wanted to take pride in your work you should have completely cleaned out that diff and started with the fresh fluid. You have no idea what’s hiding in that old fluid dirt, grit, metal flakes. If you went through all that work on taking it out you should’ve done the job right.
If you understand fluid dynamics , at low speed the diff will allow the speed differential between the front and rear tire for turning without much binding , at higher speed differentials it will bind up , like trying to move slowly VS quickly through water. Coming off of a jump can be taken care of by the slipper clutch.... not the diff. The difference in speed between the front tires taking a longer route when turning than the rear tires when turning is VERY little ...at any vehicle ground speed. Without a center diff you would break all 4 tires lose with only slight turning.
Hi sir Alex. How many runs do you think before it runs out of fluid? I have an e revo 2.0, stock fluids comes from 50k rear 50k front and 20m center right? Just want to have an idea when to refill my diffs. Thanks in advance sir Alex :)
Both traxxas and arrma are lacking in places they dont expect you to look. Diff fluid, shock fluid screws over tight, under tight but you dont know until something happens or starting off learning and find out the hard way. Getting to know your vehicle is the only reason I say go ahead and check everything and before you buy, wachter plenty of videos.
1. Thats totally overfilled. If it helps making you happier then ok. But from a mechanical point of view it doesnt make sense. 2. My 1:5th scale gas truck has had in its center diff half the amount of fluid you found in there since it was new (ran over 20 tanks in 1 year) and the diff is pristine. 3. The “cracking” noise you mentioned is the drive line shaft in the center that has some slope.
Also check to make sure the spur gears and diffs are not over tight or to loose out of the box. I dont bash my xmaxx and was doing a wheelie on it's way back to me and the front dropped. Tapped the throttle and sound like pinion work it's way off again, as with running on 8s with hot weather would heat up t uh e blue locktite and it slid off once or twice, so I removed the cover to see a total of 5 tee the left on spur and pinion combined. Had no idea how that would of happened except the xmaxx is not completely upgraded to take the 8s. Never had problems on 6s before I could afford the 4s batteries for it. Anyway after upgrading to hot racing spur and teckno pinion. As I was showing my LHS the damage I noticed the bottom of a hex hole for the spur at the bottom was missing and knew right away that's what got in and stripped the gears. Then i notice, looking closer, from that broken hole was a crack fro the top of the hole through the top of the pinion. Looks like it was over tighten at the factory and when running 8s finally was to much for it. I've learned to DEF look over arrma vehicles since the ones I have had a problem from the start, but the 5 traxxas i have, the xmaxx has been the only one tha th didnt upgrade pieces (just electronics) to take the 8s. Bought 5/21 and even the tires were still rated 6s. The did replace a set of tires due to 3 inches missing adhesive, but a set is one side, so I nicely bout the others myself so I could have the other side. And if you ever shred the teeth on anything make sure to dump out teeth, open the bottom to get more out and check rear and front bulkhead and clean diffs to make sure ALL teeth are out, or one may get on the diffs in the grease you dont see and cause problems.
I jus bought an xmaxx, and I jus didn't know about the importance of making sure that the center differential had proper fluid. THANXSOMUCH for the info KEEP ON BASHING!
Nice info, saw your other vid and got slop outa cush drive, gonna keep mine stock too, finally got 20m fluid, maybe upgrade to Max 6 ESC if ever needed, what do you think bout dust cover and axle diff rubber boots, I have both coming, gonna add 4 fans to keep ESC cool with cover on, someone cut out windows to add more air to esc and motor, also have ordered T-Power A-rm skid plates front and rear gets lotsa hits from front tires, have fun best hobby grade truck.
I agree with u , thanks for the vids keep on keepin.. I was really turned off by the 6s but Traxxas really stepped it up on the 8s and the only thing I’m going to change is the ESC and that’s when the stock one craps out . I have a Hobbywing max 5 waiting to put in but no need for it yet I’m very satisfied with the 8s .. thanks for the info and reassurance that I’m not crazy with Using over 10million on any diffs . Most never even heard off it 👍👍..
pretty sure I blew my Torque Biasing Center Drive, center shaft is slipping quite a bit and i have narrowed it down to the Center drive. Gotta tear my rear end apart get the center drive out and see what happened to it. Happened after 50 X 20 foot high 35 foot long jumps though lol!
Weird Alex I found out what was wrong, there is a washer inside the Center drive on the one pinion ya can pull out. It was pretty thin but stopping my gears from all meshing up correctly. 44 Cents at farm and fleet and a bench grinder.. my Center Drive is Like Brand New lol Went ahead and locked it down after the repair ;P
Hello just got a use xmaxx and would threw the hole thing a grease it up good do you have any video on working on the hole truck. Taking it apart and etc I just don't want to mess it up..thanks
Alex rc freak i called traxxas and asked what comes stock in the 8s exmaxx the guy said 20 mil in center 10 k rear and 50 k front? that dont seem right. its just all the forums never have a straight answer. thats why i watch your videos thay are very straight fkrward.
always-up-always tear down 16 screws. Then 4 for under motor. Its easier than remove fan and heat sensor. And then the rear diff house means 5, screws and than another 8,9 screws more. Its hard first time. After its easy
@@rccarslover7143 I know right. It's so many screws to take off that I kinda lost track but I was planning on upgrading to stainless steel screws anyways. But yes. It's a pain in the butt taking off the rear bulkhead to get to the center differential for the first time
This is 100 percent rite , I have been saying this and have done this before I even run it and my hobby shop by me looks at me like I’m crazy 👍👍keep on keeping my friend.
Justin Rizzo no not crazy at all most hobby shops sell the rc products but don't really do work on them correctly for example the diffs if they where ever to clean them they would just scoop out the old diff fluid and refill it me I clean them in parts Solvent for cars so that way a really cleans all the residue off the gear teeth and also will make a diff very smooth when it's in motion the 20 million diff weight is super thick so it's basically a locked center diff thanks for watching the video
There was plenty in there, now you have overfilled it you just have a bunch in the middle doing nothing.
I have heard the rumors of diffs not having oil in them but if this is what everyone is talking about I will not waste my time checking.
Yea I agree seems like he's coming up with his own opinion and stating it as a fact.
Shane T I agree that too much now
How can it be too much if it's not leaking ? He wants it 90% or so locked that's why he chose 20 mill. Just able to spin to avoid breakage
I also agree with you, there appeared to be plenty in there already. Keep up the good work Traxxas!
Lol theres a lot of air inside funny to see people defending something who is not right you canpletly see its completly underfill and can see the bottom of the diff cup dotn sptell me its enough fluid for a 8 diff
"dont be lazy use your hands". i can tell by your hands, you dont work with them, but for some people, who used their hands to feed a family for 20+years, using a power driver is the only way. its not always about lazy. you pound on ceramic tile for 20+ years & see if you get a little lazy
The problem with using power tools for that type of job, especially assembly is that its very easy to damage threads and castings.. that might be what he was thinking about
Settle down Francis
Are saying Traxxas engineers don't know what they doing? Like what someone else said look like plenty in it to me lot but nothing wrong if you want to change it out or fill it up,after all its yours do what you see fit :-)
I like the "take pride in your work" great work ethic for life.
Those don't look like helical gears
They aren't, they're planetary gears
Michael Daugherty exactly my point. Planetary gears aren’t torque biasing. Helical gears are.
Standard gears want to push away from each other under torque. Helical cut gears want to push away and to opposite sides. The more torque ran through a helical diff makes the gears side load onto the case and resist spinning. This lock up effect gives helical differentials their name: torque biasing differentials. Depending on the pitch of the gear, they also have torque biasing ratios where a 3:1 would have the wheel with the most traction seeing 3x the torque of the wheel with the least. For example, one wheel has 50 ft lbs of resistance and the other has 500 ft lbs. one wheel will get 150 ft lbs of torque and the other would get 50ft lbs. wheel speed doesn’t equate to torque, it’s simply the rotational force. A locker is even better. Both wheels would receive up to 50 ft lbs evenly until the power unit reaches 100 ft lbs. then the weaker traction wheel would still get 50ft lbs and the other wheel would see up to 500ft lbs before they would even start spinning. What makes lockers dangerous is the rapid fluctuations of torque at each wheel causing extreme loading and unloading of driveline components. Imagine going from 10ft lbs to 1000 down to 30 and back up the 800 ft lbs all on one wheel hopping rotation.
Only do this if you want A shitty turning car. lol
😊
If you wanted to take pride in your work you should have completely cleaned out that diff and started with the fresh fluid. You have no idea what’s hiding in that old fluid dirt, grit, metal flakes. If you went through all that work on taking it out you should’ve done the job right.
If you understand fluid dynamics , at low speed the diff will allow the speed differential between the front and rear tire for turning without much binding , at higher speed differentials it will bind up , like trying to move slowly VS quickly through water. Coming off of a jump can be taken care of by the slipper clutch.... not the diff. The difference in speed between the front tires taking a longer route when turning than the rear tires when turning is VERY little ...at any vehicle ground speed. Without a center diff you would break all 4 tires lose with only slight turning.
I'm tired of poor quality factory assembly. Bring back kits . Offer 2 options with radio and without for price point.
Hi sir Alex. How many runs do you think before it runs out of fluid? I have an e revo 2.0, stock fluids comes from 50k rear 50k front and 20m center right? Just want to have an idea when to refill my diffs. Thanks in advance sir Alex :)
Can you only put it in the center diff
It’s different than what?
What do u recommend for the front and back diff fluids on the xmaxx
Book says 10k front 30k rear.
at least you tried
Both traxxas and arrma are lacking in places they dont expect you to look. Diff fluid, shock fluid screws over tight, under tight but you dont know until something happens or starting off learning and find out the hard way. Getting to know your vehicle is the only reason I say go ahead and check everything and before you buy, wachter plenty of videos.
1. Thats totally overfilled. If it helps making you happier then ok. But from a mechanical point of view it doesnt make sense.
2. My 1:5th scale gas truck has had in its center diff half the amount of fluid you found in there since it was new (ran over 20 tanks in 1 year) and the diff is pristine.
3. The “cracking” noise you mentioned is the drive line shaft in the center that has some slope.
Also check to make sure the spur gears and diffs are not over tight or to loose out of the box. I dont bash my xmaxx and was doing a wheelie on it's way back to me and the front dropped. Tapped the throttle and sound like pinion work it's way off again, as with running on 8s with hot weather would heat up t uh e blue locktite and it slid off once or twice, so I removed the cover to see a total of 5 tee the left on spur and pinion combined. Had no idea how that would of happened except the xmaxx is not completely upgraded to take the 8s. Never had problems on 6s before I could afford the 4s batteries for it. Anyway after upgrading to hot racing spur and teckno pinion. As I was showing my LHS the damage I noticed the bottom of a hex hole for the spur at the bottom was missing and knew right away that's what got in and stripped the gears. Then i notice, looking closer, from that broken hole was a crack fro the top of the hole through the top of the pinion. Looks like it was over tighten at the factory and when running 8s finally was to much for it. I've learned to DEF look over arrma vehicles since the ones I have had a problem from the start, but the 5 traxxas i have, the xmaxx has been the only one tha th didnt upgrade pieces (just electronics) to take the 8s. Bought 5/21 and even the tires were still rated 6s. The did replace a set of tires due to 3 inches missing adhesive, but a set is one side, so I nicely bout the others myself so I could have the other side. And if you ever shred the teeth on anything make sure to dump out teeth, open the bottom to get more out and check rear and front bulkhead and clean diffs to make sure ALL teeth are out, or one may get on the diffs in the grease you dont see and cause problems.
Hi, can you please tell me how much is in the jar? Thanks!
It's like 14 dollars at a hobby shop
@@alexperea20 Thanks, but I meant quantity please.
Great video very informal may I ask what diff fluid could I use in front and rear diff if I have the 800kv hobbywing motor max5 esc
I jus bought an xmaxx, and I jus didn't know about the importance of making sure that the center differential had proper fluid.
THANXSOMUCH for the info
KEEP ON BASHING!
Where did you get the 20 mill diff fluid?
Silicone ear plugs walmart 3 bucks
I can't tell what gears are worn out on mine.. it makes a crunching sound when i come to a stop, and sometimes it slips alltogether.
I would of cleaned all the gears its not good two mix diff oil bud ...but i hear what yoyr saying lots of money
Nice video. I like the way you take your time to do it right. Precision is most important. Good job!
Nice info, saw your other vid and got slop outa cush drive, gonna keep mine stock too, finally got 20m fluid, maybe upgrade to Max 6 ESC if ever needed, what do you think bout dust cover and axle diff rubber boots, I have both coming, gonna add 4 fans to keep ESC cool with cover on, someone cut out windows to add more air to esc and motor, also have ordered T-Power A-rm skid plates front and rear gets lotsa hits from front tires, have fun best hobby grade truck.
надо было еще насрать в дифференциал.там должно быть густое масло.а ни тягучая смазка.хрен пойми для чего.все это будет сказываться на ход модели.
I agree with u , thanks for the vids keep on keepin.. I was really turned off by the 6s but Traxxas really stepped it up on the 8s and the only thing I’m going to change is the ESC and that’s when the stock one craps out . I have a Hobbywing max 5 waiting to put in but no need for it yet I’m very satisfied with the 8s .. thanks for the info and reassurance that I’m not crazy with Using over 10million on any diffs . Most never even heard off it 👍👍..
Have u seen the new well new to me hot racing diff locker for the Xmaxx ? I know it’s not been out long have u seen or thought about getting that ?
Have you a vid of how to get to the center diff?
very nice instructions. ty for the content.
Do you have a video on how to remove the center diff? Thanks!
Can i use 1mil instead of 20mil
Over filling is bad as well..
pretty sure I blew my Torque Biasing Center Drive, center shaft is slipping quite a bit and i have narrowed it down to the Center drive. Gotta tear my rear end apart get the center drive out and see what happened to it.
Happened after 50 X 20 foot high 35 foot long jumps though lol!
Weird Alex I found out what was wrong, there is a washer inside the Center drive on the one pinion ya can pull out.
It was pretty thin but stopping my gears from all meshing up correctly. 44 Cents at farm and fleet and a bench grinder.. my Center Drive is Like Brand New lol Went ahead and locked it down after the repair ;P
Sir if my 20 million fluid is gray does that mean gears have been grinding
No it changes color as it gets old
Where did you get that fluid mate
Hello just got a use xmaxx and would threw the hole thing a grease it up good do you have any video on working on the hole truck. Taking it apart and etc
I just don't want to mess it up..thanks
Yes please look through my videos i do have a complete teardown of that tuck
Thanks
How i get in there to remove the dif?
Great video, but I would have used Loctite on those screws, each to there own though, I sub'd though.
JTM2007 thank you i really appreciate it
very good video. Probably would be a good idea to use loctide blue on the screws
Uu77iuu uuùiììiii88ì⁰'ll ppl ppl
How many teeth are on that gear?
Nvm. Its 51 teeth. And it makes with a 20 tooth gear in the transmission.
what wieght fluid goes in the front and rear dif? the stock weight.
Jamie Fox 30k in front and rear
Alex rc freak i called traxxas and asked what comes stock in the 8s exmaxx the guy said 20 mil in center 10 k rear and 50 k front? that dont seem right. its just all the forums never have a straight answer. thats why i watch your videos thay are very straight fkrward.
Will this fit in the xmaxx 6
yeah but you will need the new bulk head and some extra parts,let me know if you want the part #
what is the easiest way to acess the center diff
always-up-always tear down 16 screws. Then 4 for under motor. Its easier than remove fan and heat sensor. And then the rear diff house means 5, screws and than another 8,9 screws more. Its hard first time. After its easy
@@rccarslover7143 I know right. It's so many screws to take off that I kinda lost track but I was planning on upgrading to stainless steel screws anyways. But yes. It's a pain in the butt taking off the rear bulkhead to get to the center differential for the first time
Great Video!!!! Can you do a video on removing the centre differential???
This is 100 percent rite , I have been saying this and have done this before I even run it and my hobby shop by me looks at me like I’m crazy 👍👍keep on keeping my friend.
Justin Rizzo no not crazy at all most hobby shops sell the rc products but don't really do work on them correctly for example the diffs if they where ever to clean them they would just scoop out the old diff fluid and refill it me I clean them in parts Solvent for cars so that way a really cleans all the residue off the gear teeth and also will make a diff very smooth when it's in motion the 20 million diff weight is super thick so it's basically a locked center diff thanks for watching the video
This is also used as ur braking system,,,,, but too much lube is just as bad as not enough..(:
Nice video 👍 I've heard of some people complaining about the same issue
RC JOE thanks for watching the video I just thought it would be a good idea to show people what could happen
Thanks Alex! Great video!
Jesse Carver thanks for watching the video I really appreciate it