Had to do this myself because the mechanic I took mine too though this shaft was part of the CV and told me I had ordered the wrong cv's. So I did it myself with the CV's I purchased.
Where are the 1000's of 👍. Not sure if this will help me with my problem. But This video is by far the most helpful in detailed step-by-step with cv axle shaft. (Driver side cv axle not spinning and when it does, spin very very slowly. Axle or wheel hub?) No clicks, minor humming with minor smell?
I have a 2011 HHR with 4T45E transmission which I don't see in your description. The seal and seal sleeve look the same as the one I replaced in my 2011 HHR. Maybe I'm unaware of some nuances in this procedure. I would appreciate any advice or input you may have concerning how this technique would work on an HHR 4T45E trans. I will be looking forward to your reply, thanks.
This particular video, and the GM rebuild kit I go over, only show fitment thru the model years of the video title. The 2011 Chevrolet HHR isn't listed. That's either due to some change implemented after model year 2010 on the 4T45E such that everything I showed is _basically_ the same but the rebuild kit part number changed. Or that GM made a mistake and didn't include this model and year in the fitment list. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Hi, I have a 2010 hhr 2.2 lt with the same setup. My concern is that I couldn't get stub shaft out. But it is very sloppy and loose.is that normally that way or once a new clip a seal is replaced, would it be snug. At this moment, I have way too much play and lots of noise going over uneven surfaces. Could transmission be damaged
The stub shaft is _supposed_ to remain in the transaxle/transmission when you are replacing the CV axle shaft, but rarely does after being this old. If yours stayed inside, that's ok in and of itself. This video is about when the stub shaft does comes out, what you should do to recondition it while you have it out before reinstalling it. If you have a loose fit upon reinstalling the CV axle, I would first suspect you have not gotten it reseated properly with the ring clip in its home groove. The CV axle plus stub shaft assembly should have only the normal play between the two ring clips in the in and out direction.
That stub shaft for the 4T40E/4T45E has been discontinued for some time now. But I did add the part number into the video description area for folks wanting to hunt one down NOS.
Well, in one case you won't have proper splining which can result in damage to the transmission output shaft that mates up with the axle shaft. In another you can have a situation where the axle shaft moves outward and no longer has sufficient spline engagement to drive the wheel. I'm sure there are other problems that can result over longer periods of time as well. Best to make sure this guy is properly seated no matter how you look at it. Witness marks are your friend.
Okay, I have spoken with a transmission shop that knows these transmissions inside and out. The passenger side differential has a bushing inside, that tends to wear out causing a lot of slop and play inside. It causes shaking and vibrations upon acceleration and a higher speed. It's very common on these and only way to fix it, is with a rebuild.
On this model transmission, the seal _and_ the shaft sleeve _both_ must be replaced at the same time. I went over the service manual section about this guidance. Doing one without the other _will_ very likely result in an ATF leak. Also, using genuine GM/ACDelco OEM parts, and the proper sleeve and seal installation tools can help achieve the correct fitment required for this application. This seal lip can _easily_ be damaged by the shaft splines. So if you are not using the protective tool shown in the service manual, you have to be _extremely_ cautious on re-inserting the shaft to avoid spline to seal contact.
![How To Replace Axle Seal/Output Shaft Seal [ Chevrolet Cruze 1.8 L 2011-2016 ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Gq-P6tQJBJE/mqdefault.jpg)
Thank you for the detailed info. Very helpful.
Had to do this myself because the mechanic I took mine too though this shaft was part of the CV and told me I had ordered the wrong cv's. So I did it myself with the CV's I purchased.
Excellent! Rare information on the tools, materials and technique of this stub shaft/ seal install.
Thanks to your video, I figured out how to fix this seal
Where are the 1000's of 👍. Not sure if this will help me with my problem. But This video is by far the most helpful in detailed step-by-step with cv axle shaft. (Driver side cv axle not spinning and when it does, spin very very slowly. Axle or wheel hub?) No clicks, minor humming with minor smell?
I have a 2011 HHR with 4T45E transmission which I don't see in your description. The seal and seal sleeve look the same as the one I replaced in my 2011 HHR. Maybe I'm unaware of some nuances in this procedure. I would appreciate any advice or input you may have concerning how this technique would work on an HHR 4T45E trans. I will be looking forward to your reply, thanks.
This particular video, and the GM rebuild kit I go over, only show fitment thru the model years of the video title. The 2011 Chevrolet HHR isn't listed. That's either due to some change implemented after model year 2010 on the 4T45E such that everything I showed is _basically_ the same but the rebuild kit part number changed. Or that GM made a mistake and didn't include this model and year in the fitment list. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Hi, I have a 2010 hhr 2.2 lt with the same setup. My concern is that I couldn't get stub shaft out. But it is very sloppy and loose.is that normally that way or once a new clip a seal is replaced, would it be snug. At this moment, I have way too much play and lots of noise going over uneven surfaces. Could transmission be damaged
The stub shaft is _supposed_ to remain in the transaxle/transmission when you are replacing the CV axle shaft, but rarely does after being this old. If yours stayed inside, that's ok in and of itself. This video is about when the stub shaft does comes out, what you should do to recondition it while you have it out before reinstalling it.
If you have a loose fit upon reinstalling the CV axle, I would first suspect you have not gotten it reseated properly with the ring clip in its home groove. The CV axle plus stub shaft assembly should have only the normal play between the two ring clips in the in and out direction.
Any chance there's a part number for that shaft? I've been looking for one till my eyeballs have bled all day
That stub shaft for the 4T40E/4T45E has been discontinued for some time now. But I did add the part number into the video description area for folks wanting to hunt one down NOS.
Is a big job. I'm doing some work on saturn Aura 2008 😮
If the stub shaft isn’t seated into the transmission correctly what sort of issues might occur??
Well, in one case you won't have proper splining which can result in damage to the transmission output shaft that mates up with the axle shaft. In another you can have a situation where the axle shaft moves outward and no longer has sufficient spline engagement to drive the wheel. I'm sure there are other problems that can result over longer periods of time as well. Best to make sure this guy is properly seated no matter how you look at it. Witness marks are your friend.
currently looking for that kentmore J-41102-1A. Seems everyone has priced it ridiculously. About 100$ or more for one right now.
Okay, I have spoken with a transmission shop that knows these transmissions inside and out. The passenger side differential has a bushing inside, that tends to wear out causing a lot of slop and play inside. It causes shaking and vibrations upon acceleration and a higher speed. It's very common on these and only way to fix it, is with a rebuild.
Installed seal twice, and it still leaks. 😡
On this model transmission, the seal _and_ the shaft sleeve _both_ must be replaced at the same time. I went over the service manual section about this guidance. Doing one without the other _will_ very likely result in an ATF leak. Also, using genuine GM/ACDelco OEM parts, and the proper sleeve and seal installation tools can help achieve the correct fitment required for this application.
This seal lip can _easily_ be damaged by the shaft splines. So if you are not using the protective tool shown in the service manual, you have to be _extremely_ cautious on re-inserting the shaft to avoid spline to seal contact.
@DrShock I suppose ill have to try the gm ACDelco brand. Thanks
You can actually buy a cv shaft that does away with that stub and that cup seal.
@@williamstaten8102 if they're in stock. I have nothing within 100 miles of me and would have to have them mailed in over a week 😵💫