We installed a washer and dryer on the 2nd floor so we didn't forever have to haul clothes to the first floor. What an adventure! Plumbing, drainage, venting, electrical, floor drain (code requirement) - none of which was in place or even close to where the upstairs laundry closet was located. But - very glad we went thru the pain
Matt, after a water leak from the Washer water tube line 2.5 months ago we blamed the house builder for putting the laundry room upstairs rather than in the garage or a small room near the kitchen. When our neighbor knew and saw the water damage, she told me that throwing their laundry down and bringing them up for almost 20 years now was not that too bad after all.
What an excellent Tutorial video Ben. We have an LG dryer too. Our laundry room is ready after the second tile installation yesterday. First time it was badly installed in 30 minutes. The second tile installer left the sliders for the next worker. Why wait for another schedule? Courage is only needed. After this we only have the carpets cleaned and everything will be finished after water leaked from the Washer water line tube 2.5 months ago. We are now going on our 3rd month. Half of our living room ceiling was damaged, my room and the hallway carpets were soaked and of course the laundry room was the first victim. When I saw you lift that dryer, I remembered our former handyman who carried down an old Washer and brought a new one up in 2 minutes 11 years ago. Poor guy.
Also there is vent piping for dryers that are designed to prevent the pipe from getting crushed if you push it back. You have a tight bend at the back. Also is that vent pipe UL listed? I would recommend using the semi rigid pipe.
Should not use flex pipe with gas, only semi rigid or preferably rigid is the correct way to go. Every gas dryer installation manual warns against using flex pipe. Otherwise good install with the gas.
Mine states “If flexible metal (foil type) duct is installed, it must be of a specific type identified by the appliance manufacturer as suitable for use with clothes dryers.” Home Depot sells a UL listed one.
Do I need to turn of circuit breaker before connecting the gas dryer? I saw another video that said you should do this. Thanks for this helpful video!!!
Thank you so much for this easy to follow, user friendly video. I've watched in multiple times to make sure I've got it down and after 5 trips to various hardware stores I've got the correct flare fittings and I'm looking at drying some clothes in a matter of minutes. Looking forward to more videos of this type, I feel invincible now!!
I don't know why everybody thinks the reason you need a different nozzle for propane is because it's a different pressure. They need a different fuel to air ratio. Propane has more BTUs.
How much does it cost to add in the electric outlet for an electric dryer for maybe future use? Thanks. Keeping gas for now but fossil fuels are going to be limited in future!
What radius did he say the pipe was? I'm looking for a similar part online right now Oh right, he said 3/8, I remember Wishing y'all the best of luck in fixing your dryers!!
I don't think it is a good idea to just "rest" the dryer on top of the washer. Eventually the shock absorbers in the washer will wear out and then it will vibrate excessively on the spin cycles with an unbalanced load. That could throw the dryer off and then possibly rip off the gas line. Think about that. Best to somehow build some support arms for the dryer, or they may make a support system to stack the dryer on top of the washer.
Hmm. This doesn't look properly done. At 3:34, there should be a drop leg in that piping setup so particulates and moisture can drop, not going into the appliance. I believe that's code, no matter if your fuel source is methane or propane. I believe code is a either a 3 or 4 inch nipple going down that is capped. So, from the bottom of the valve, there should be a T, with the flare/compression fitting coming out the side, and the nipple with cap going down the bottom of the T. As for having the appliances stacked, manufacturers have kits to mount the appliances on top of each other, and they're a requirement as well, due to the vibration of the washing machine.
@@davidbarrozo6621 i literally learned that from a guy on a forum called bill and posted it as a joke, he also claimed insulators are capacitors and it takes electricity to stop electricity.
Dumb question but my dryer on/off handle is green not blue like yours is, is that normal? And question 2, when gas is in on position, does it go in line with the pipe and sideways is the off position? Also my gas handle to my water heater and furnace are both red, is this normal? Do they also need to run in line to be on and sideways to be in the off position?
Hmm, but the seal on a flared connection does not occur at the threads. It occurs at the metal-to-metal flare mating surface, which is not designed to be possibly contaminated with a foreign substance. You're likely increasing instead of decreasing your chance of a leak. Hence the strong warnings printed on all flared connections.
Also search for more safety tips: Page 53 of the Copper Tube Handbook and many many searches about using pipe tape and/or pipe dope state; DO NOT use tape or dope on the flared end including it's threads. Pipe dope or tape can go on the other side, the male end, but not on the flared side of the pipe. There are lots of posts by the pros stating that adding anything to those threads interfere with the ability for the flared end mating process to completely seal as engineered to do so. Any contaminants within the threads will prevent perfect mating of the flared surfaces. And make sure to check for leaks with a non-corrosive spray, not just soap and water. Make sure to not overtighten and crack fittings which will also be a potential source for leaks. But always check and double check for leaks. And do yourself a favor so you don't keep yourself up at night hoping and praying you don't blow up your home and kill your entire family while trying to save a few bucks and have one of these installed in the same outlet as an extra measure to save precious lives. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M48BH30/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 And if you aren't sure, feel like something went wrong, or just plain have the money to be extra safe; hire a pro and let them perform the job in the safest possible and most experienced way to keep you rest assured that one of the most dangerous aspects to home living is safely secured.
@@BenjaminSahlstrom for that short flex I would have used ridgid type aluminum flex and not the crinkly type. Though solid duct is preferred. The crinkly stuff isn't recommended especially for gas.
Chittllings and an Oxygen Tank = Danger. She's willing to go out with a BANG. They got to be Damm good, she drop some or the juice on her chest, had she not been recorded, bet she wud have gotten whatever fell on them, watermelons.
Yeah, if there was more room I would agree! What do you prefer instead of flex? You're definitely correct about the lifting. I was in my 20s when I made that video but now that I'm over 30 I probably won't be trying that again. Haha
@@BenjaminSahlstrom Semi rigid pipe. There aren't expensive and don't crush easily. The bends they make are better for flow but don't do 90 degree bends. For a 90, you need a preformed piece.
Chittllings and an Oxygen Tank = Danger. She's willing to go out with a BANG. They got to be Damm good, she drop some or the juice on her chest, had she not been recorded, bet she wud have gotten whatever fell on them, watermelons.
I was thoroughly impressed with how you didn’t gouge the hell out of the drywall with the corner of the dryer. Great job 🤣
I closed my eyes when you lifted on top of the washer
And install a bigger drain pan for your drain pan in case it gets clogged or it leaks 😅
Cute little angel at the end!
We installed a washer and dryer on the 2nd floor so we didn't forever have to haul clothes to the first floor. What an adventure! Plumbing, drainage, venting, electrical, floor drain (code requirement) - none of which was in place or even close to where the upstairs laundry closet was located. But - very glad we went thru the pain
I agree, it is SOOOO convenient!
Glad you got through the mess, me and my roommate have been managing with full time jobs after our washer broke
Matt, after a water leak from the Washer water tube line 2.5 months ago we blamed the house builder for putting the laundry room upstairs rather than in the garage or a small room near the kitchen. When our neighbor knew and saw the water damage, she told me that throwing their laundry down and bringing them up for almost 20 years now was not that too bad after all.
I think proper lifting technique in that situation involves 2 people ….
What an excellent Tutorial video Ben. We have an LG dryer too. Our laundry room is ready after the second tile installation yesterday. First time it was badly installed in 30 minutes. The second tile installer left the sliders for the next worker. Why wait for another schedule? Courage is only needed. After this we only have the carpets cleaned and everything will be finished after water leaked from the Washer water line tube 2.5 months ago. We are now going on our 3rd month. Half of our living room ceiling was damaged, my room and the hallway carpets were soaked and of course the laundry room was the first victim. When I saw you lift that dryer, I remembered our former handyman who carried down an old Washer and brought a new one up in 2 minutes 11 years ago. Poor guy.
Knipex Cobrq Adjustable Pliers is literally my favorite tool of all time. If you work with pipes and don’t have it, you’re missing out!
Is it not good practice, to have a leg of pipe below the the flex fitting to catch sediments?
Not sure I am explaining that correctly.
Me a first-time gas appliance user hearing "Could kill everyone in the house"...... 😱😱
Also there is vent piping for dryers that are designed to prevent the pipe from getting crushed if you push it back. You have a tight bend at the back. Also is that vent pipe UL listed? I would recommend using the semi rigid pipe.
Dude, you're the man! Thanks for the help.
Happy wife , happy life 😂🤣😅 Thx for posting ...
The truth!😂😂💀💀💀
Should not use flex pipe with gas, only semi rigid or preferably rigid is the correct way to go. Every gas dryer installation manual warns against using flex pipe. Otherwise good install with the gas.
Mine states “If flexible metal (foil type)
duct is installed, it must be of a specific type
identified by the appliance manufacturer as suitable for use with clothes dryers.” Home Depot sells a UL listed one.
Do I need to turn of circuit breaker before connecting the gas dryer? I saw another video that said you should do this.
Thanks for this helpful video!!!
Thank you so much for this easy to follow, user friendly video. I've watched in multiple times to make sure I've got it down and after 5 trips to various hardware stores I've got the correct flare fittings and I'm looking at drying some clothes in a matter of minutes. Looking forward to more videos of this type, I feel invincible now!!
Do you have to let the pipe sealant cure before using?
Proper lifting technique? NO, have a helper, especially if you have the room.
Yeah I don't think I'll ever try that again.
@@jamesl9686 Thank goodness for disc/ cervical fusion. Don't I know.
I understood it wasn't code to use corrugated flexible tubing to exhaust gas dryer vents.
Use clamps for the exhaust duct. Using tape in the first 3 ft of run is against code. Foil tape is not made for that heat and will fail over time
I would be worried about the vent getting crushed if there was too muck vibration or if the dryer gets bumped
5:05 Speaking of vibration, why is the electric cord draped over the flexible gas pipe?
I don't know why everybody thinks the reason you need a different nozzle for propane is because it's a different pressure. They need a different fuel to air ratio. Propane has more BTUs.
Hi Ben, I like your videos! Long time lurker, first time poster. Does the 120v outlet behind the washer / dryer need to be GFCI protected?
All outlets in the laundry area require GFCI protection.
Not required but it has to be a dedicated circuit.
How much does it cost to add in the electric outlet for an electric dryer for maybe future use? Thanks. Keeping gas for now but fossil fuels are going to be limited in future!
You need to use a different vent hose for gas
I think proper lifting technique for a major appliance involves TWO people ! 🥵
Don't u need to use yellow Teflon for gas?
What radius did he say the pipe was? I'm looking for a similar part online right now
Oh right, he said 3/8, I remember
Wishing y'all the best of luck in fixing your dryers!!
I don't think it is a good idea to just "rest" the dryer on top of the washer. Eventually the shock absorbers in the washer will wear out and then it will vibrate excessively on the spin cycles with an unbalanced load. That could throw the dryer off and then possibly rip off the gas line. Think about that. Best to somehow build some support arms for the dryer, or they may make a support system to stack the dryer on top of the washer.
My Dads ongoing joke for 50+ yrs:
Rector Seal!!
To Seal your Rector!!
Oh Dad.....
Hmm. This doesn't look properly done. At 3:34, there should be a drop leg in that piping setup so particulates and moisture can drop, not going into the appliance. I believe that's code, no matter if your fuel source is methane or propane. I believe code is a either a 3 or 4 inch nipple going down that is capped. So, from the bottom of the valve, there should be a T, with the flare/compression fitting coming out the side, and the nipple with cap going down the bottom of the T.
As for having the appliances stacked, manufacturers have kits to mount the appliances on top of each other, and they're a requirement as well, due to the vibration of the washing machine.
I think his drop leg is in the wall.
Do you need to bleed the gas line if it is just NG?
Would like to know too 😂 i want a sniff 💀
Do I need to use a stainless steal host clamp even when connecting using a galvanized fitting?
Nice watch - what is it?
So when you convert a gas dryer to LP do you need to change the hose? If so can you provide a link? We already put the converter kit on. Thanks.
You're doing it wrong, you're supposed to check for when the purge is complete with a lighter! 😜
I would remove this comment if I were you, there are some dumbasses out there who will actually do this. 😮
💀💀💀you are right though (not saying it would have been me though)
*looks away*
@@davidbarrozo6621 i literally learned that from a guy on a forum called bill and posted it as a joke, he also claimed insulators are capacitors and it takes electricity to stop electricity.
@@Jon-hx7pe 😂😂😂 that devil him 😈💀
the problem is, he was serious.@@davidbarrozo6621
Would these connections be the same for a gas stove
Very similar if not the same.
Dumb question but my dryer on/off handle is green not blue like yours is, is that normal? And question 2, when gas is in on position, does it go in line with the pipe and sideways is the off position? Also my gas handle to my water heater and furnace are both red, is this normal? Do they also need to run in line to be on and sideways to be in the off position?
For gas, yes, it's on when the handle is parallel to the pipe.
5 stars
Even with a flare connection, I will still use a little pipe dope. No harm, pipe dope is cheap
Hmm, but the seal on a flared connection does not occur at the threads. It occurs at the metal-to-metal flare mating surface, which is not designed to be possibly contaminated with a foreign substance. You're likely increasing instead of decreasing your chance of a leak. Hence the strong warnings printed on all flared connections.
Also search for more safety tips: Page 53 of the Copper Tube Handbook and many many searches about using pipe tape and/or pipe dope state; DO NOT use tape or dope on the flared end including it's threads. Pipe dope or tape can go on the other side, the male end, but not on the flared side of the pipe. There are lots of posts by the pros stating that adding anything to those threads interfere with the ability for the flared end mating process to completely seal as engineered to do so. Any contaminants within the threads will prevent perfect mating of the flared surfaces. And make sure to check for leaks with a non-corrosive spray, not just soap and water. Make sure to not overtighten and crack fittings which will also be a potential source for leaks. But always check and double check for leaks. And do yourself a favor so you don't keep yourself up at night hoping and praying you don't blow up your home and kill your entire family while trying to save a few bucks and have one of these installed in the same outlet as an extra measure to save precious lives. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M48BH30/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And if you aren't sure, feel like something went wrong, or just plain have the money to be extra safe; hire a pro and let them perform the job in the safest possible and most experienced way to keep you rest assured that one of the most dangerous aspects to home living is safely secured.
What's up Ben ⚡😊
That back man isn't going to be happy. Amazon has lifting strap which would save your back.
It's against code to purge a gas line into a home. Using a simple purge burner is best.
Sucks when you don’t have friends. 😂😂😂
😂😂😂💀💀
Dude is a beast huh?❤
Dude!! You're going to turn your spine into dust!! Get a lifting helper!
Men you like gas odor, what you smoke men
I was with you til you showed that awful flex exhaust...
Do you just hard pipe it? Some flex seems necessary for vibration.
@@BenjaminSahlstrom for that short flex I would have used ridgid type aluminum flex and not the crinkly type. Though solid duct is preferred. The crinkly stuff isn't recommended especially for gas.
❤🎉😊
Chittllings and an Oxygen Tank = Danger. She's willing to go out with a BANG. They got to be Damm good, she drop some or the juice on her chest, had she not been recorded, bet she wud have gotten whatever fell on them, watermelons.
Sorry, do not like this install. Terrible lifting. Terrible flex pipe. Terrible location for appliances. Too tight.
Yeah, if there was more room I would agree! What do you prefer instead of flex? You're definitely correct about the lifting. I was in my 20s when I made that video but now that I'm over 30 I probably won't be trying that again. Haha
@@BenjaminSahlstrom Semi rigid pipe. There aren't expensive and don't crush easily. The bends they make are better for flow but don't do 90 degree bends. For a 90, you need a preformed piece.
Chittllings and an Oxygen Tank = Danger. She's willing to go out with a BANG. They got to be Damm good, she drop some or the juice on her chest, had she not been recorded, bet she wud have gotten whatever fell on them, watermelons.