I was forced to do this for the first time about 6 months ago. Bottom of stairs had a round end on the bottom tread. I used 1/4 inch maple veneer plywood for the risers, and didn't want to change products for the curve. So I did exactly what you show. Set my saw depth, added a sacrificial stand-out fence, then cut the slots at equal spacing. Worked brilliantly. I filled the cuts with glue when I applied it, just in case it might need it.
iv done this a few times. it works great on square edges stuff. . i usually fill the kerfs with glue when fitting. it really strengthens it. i had a case where someone hit it with a trolley and it broke.
I do Stair Renovations for a living. I kerfed wider material when I first started but now I use 1/8" Plywood and sand down to about a 1/16" for the curve. I've found that I don't have the brittleness issues of kerfing, it's stronger than veneer and you can pack out as much as you want to cover any gaps where the bottom step meets the flooring. However, with a step, you don't have to worry about what to do with the top edge.
Another method is to slice the material into thin strips then re-glue them together while bent around a mold equal to the curve required. Once dried, trim the ends. This method lends better to non-painted finishes. There are quite a few videos on youtube describing this method. Some people even make furniture with it!
Yep, laminating works well and always plenty of ways to skin that cat, but this was about bending a 6x1 around a curve as quickly and easily (and cheaply) as possible, without knowing if it would be painted or left in natural timber. 🤷♂️👍
This requires a former made that is specific only to the radius of that curve, also would need some form of clamping caul or a vacuum bag. Admittedly a better finish but tremendously more work.
We had the opportunity to do just that not long ago on some baseboard. The "fun" challenge was that it was an inside radius of less than 8 inches, about 9/16" in thickness and 8 inches in height. We used basswood (for pliability) and steamed the laminations to pre bend on the form to ease the final bend which helped immensely. The glue up consisted of 5 laminations using Titebond 3 glue. Left in form for two days. The 4 inside corners held their shape with no springback whatsoever. These pieces actually went into a very luxurious bath area so that solid wood was the chosen material as opposed to a layers of thin MDF or baltic ply run vertically or some other material or method. Definitely a lot of work but turned out very well. Thanks for sharing and am always open to feedback and ideas.
Thanks for sharing. When I'm doing this I dribble a few kettles of nearly boiling water on the kerf cuts before fitting. I find this really increases the flexibility. I also put some expanding adhesive foam in the cuts. I'm not entirely sure if this does anything very useful but it seems a bit less fragile when it dries off.
Hey Peter ,i usually will wet it with a spray bottle to soften it up before bending it ,i do the same with dry wall when i do an arch ceiling in a tub enclosure,the fun ones are the 90 degees with small rounded corners (tight corners ) i fit it then glue them up before installing them (concave trim is lots of fun )
How does it work on 'Taurus' skirting, I had 20 ...19th century houses in Greenwich, London in 2011 all with 90°curved passageways ,chippy did a marvel job,tookhim a couple of days, however ,a different story with the decorators who had to finish to top edges ,that took a week n half by the time the rubbing down and painting started.......The old Taurus that was removed had 'Vs' cut in the back...........Good vid Pete*****
I've got to put a concave curve into an 18mm thick MDF skirting, to fit it into a bay. Will this technique work with MDF, or is it more likely to tear, do you think, due to it's inherent fibrous nature? I realise I'd have to put the kerfs into the "front side", then get creative with the filler.....
Once you have completed the kerfing and confirmed you can bend it to the required shape - how about some epoxy glue in the kerfs and then it will hold the shape no matter what?
I would think filling those kerfs with construction adhesive would help with durability. With the face of that board being so thin in the kerfed areas I'd think it would be easy to crack if something hits it. Being stain grade it's not an easy fix.
Did a bathroom remodel and there is a slight bow in the wall because of plumbing issues. I am a non wood worker and this worked really well for the baseboard. Would this technique work for the crown molding? If not, any tips to share. Thanks, John.
Would depend on how intricate the moulding was, and whether the curve is internal, or external, how tight it is etc… I’ve never done it - crown moulding here in the UK is generally made of plaster - so can’t really advise. 👍
Thank you so much being trying to figure a way out to have a piece of wood with quite a long curve. I can’t and wouldn’t do the steaming process but what I just saw you do is brilliant. Finally I can get the last piece done 👍🏻 Thank you very much, Just subscribed
i also add a wallpaper steamer to the flat surface before bending just to aid the bend it works well ...and using a moisture cure glue it helps that when using a curve as skirting i tend to lay a tape barrier with the floor surface and cut it away once finished this pucks up any spills or expansion but also prevents the board from gluing to the floor and being able to remove it down the line (you know if a electrician wants to remove the skirting to chase a cable )
I have just come back from Houston and visited the Home Depot and while in the Lumber section I noticed the skirtings which came in standards MDF lengths with a white primer similar to ours, but they also had additional flexible lengths which although identical seemed to be made of a soft pvc material which allowed you to form the skirting into any profile you chose I was able to bend one length completely on itself, haven’t seen it here yet.
Reminds me of a kitchen an old mate of mine was doing in his hippy and rather 'rustic' cottage 30 odd years ago - we had to curve the work surface (which would be tiled) by the entrance to allow people to get in and out of the tight space more easily. He was stuck when it came to the edging the curved work top before tiling (we'd 'done' half the kitchen already so they could use it and this was finishing off the job) and because he couldn't work out how to put the edge on curved and had chopped up several pieces of quite expensive/blagged and couldn't get anymore oak (I think) finishing trim and failed to get the geometry right with a mitre saw and was getting very frustrated. I suggested doing exactly this and carefully sliced into one of his offcuts by hand to show how it could be done. An hour or so later the job was done - we had to use parts of his bodged offcuts to complete the straight runs as he'd nearly wasted it all and I filled the visible cuts with sawdust and glue on that too. It looked very good when done anyway!
TIP: BEFORE bending the piece, reinforce the piece with a bit of tape. It will reduce the chance of the piece snapping in two. Once the glue is dry, and the piece is installed, remove the tape.
I like your work! And your videos. You make me want to change how I do my work. I'm a finish carpenter and I love doing closet work but the scope is entirely different and I think I'm gonna start doing built ins similar to yours. I have a festool domino joiner and have not put it to use like I should.
I have used a product that is a bendable plywood and veneered it in a matching species when the need a risen, I'm not sure if you have availability to such material in the UK, in NA it can be found in speciality lumber and drywall yards. B
Interesting, thanks! We can get ‘bendy’ ply and MDF, but only in relatively thin boards. Good trick with the veneer though, hadn’t thought of that one, thanks! 👍👍
Very good and informative video. Thanks for sharing. I've seen some other videos where this technique was shown but never so detailed and other important information. How do you manage to have consequent distances between the cut-lines? Why did you show this technique in the video with wood? (Why) Is it not possible to do it with MDF?
Thanks Hans! I used natural timber as a/ that was the job, originally, and b/ it’s more difficult to do than with MDF. As mentioned in the video, consistency of kerf cuts is essential, and having a sacrificial fence is very useful to gauge this. 👍
Hi Peter. Is this possible to bend in the other direction? I'm designing a kitchen with curved corner units. Toe kick underneath would look awesome if it was curved to match. Not sure if it's possible. Will be using walnut veneer on birch ply. Any advice would be awesome. Cheers
Wow, sounds great! I'd say not with birch ply. You could probably do it by laminating up thin strips and gluing them together, then veneering the face, but lots of experimenting required, I'd think! 👍
Never tried it, but it would probably be OK. You’d need to be a little careful about the blade kerfs - presumably you’d have a moulding around the top edge to hide them. 👍
I find it very challenging to control the depth of cut on a miter saw, it would have been the last type of saw I would have used for that, but you seem to do well. Is the Kapex that accurate then?
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thank you Peter for taking the time to answer. My miter saw is a Metabo KGSV 72 XACT SYM, I have never managed to good control of depth with it. Ar the time when I bought it I could not see what Kapex could do that the Metabo couldn't.. But depth control seems to be a clear difference then. Thank you for clarifying that.
Interesting video. As it's painted anyway have you ever used what I would call the layering technique, ie building up to the thickness with a number of thin laminations?
No, never have, though I’m sure it’d work well. As mentioned in the vid the client hadn’t decided whether it was to be painted or not until after it was installed; yeah, one of those... 🤷♂️
I have Almost finished the skirting on my lounge project. Curved bay window section remaining 😬. Would this method work on a concave bay window of I scored the front of the skirting? I am using mdf skirting so some 'shaping' can be performed if required (probable 😬)
If you scored the front you’ll have a lot of filling to do, but it should work, depending on how steep the curve is. Only one way to find out though... 🤷♂️👍👍
Great video! New subscriber here! Maybe (if you haven't already) make a video showing people how to use benderboard/veneer and Sonotube/veneer for many different radius projects. Old cabinet maker/woodworker here. Good woodworkers (you) are a rarity these days! Most custom woodworking shops have disappeared here in the NW and people need your videos! Thanks!
I just going thrue that kinde of tricks not so far ago, I mean on bumpy wall and that technic works as far as you figer out the metologi which you present. I see you have evolution mitre saw. I will be pleased, to see them in action on your hands . I'm unhappy owner of Parkside mitra/chop saw with have bended fence so have accuracy of the ax . Tried few times to fix but no luck.I know that Andy touch that topic some time ago,but, I see he use now dewalt mitra saw. So I'm looking forward for yours opinion.
Hi Peter. I have this exact job to do but with a curve in the other way concave I think they call it. Will this same technique work or will I have to trench cut and fill on the outer face. Luckily skirting is all white painted. Many thanks
Hi Richard. Same technique should work fine, depending on the radius of the curve. For some reason the timber I had was much more prone to splitting when bent concave - some experimentation needed, and maybe soaking the timber if it does seem to want to crack along the kerf lines. 👍👍
Too dry maybe? Cutting a little too deep? Cutting the kerfs a little too far apart? Or a little too close together 🤷♂️ It’s a balancing act, but the kerf cuts have to be very consistent to get a good bend. 👍
Peter - I have an old Victorian house with a curved wall in it. We are looking to replace the skirting there with unpainted timber. I have seen this technique before (but still a great video) but our skirting has an additional moulding on top of the flat board. Have you any tips or techniques for doing the moulded piece that sits on top?
Darren Reilly's earlier comment gives you an answer. When he describes using a flexible piece of plastic, I think he means that this is the tool he used to shape the caulk to match the moulding. It's certainly worth trying, and worth hiring a large mitre saw to complete the work.
Hi Colin. As I say in the video, it's much easier to do this with a square-edged timber than say, an Ogee or Torus moulding. At the risk of stating the obvious, if you do kerf cuts into the moulding they'll be visible, at least part-way, and will need filling. Depending on the radius of the curve, I think I'd be inclined to rip the moulding off the base, and try to bend this separately, either with tiny kerf cuts (maybe mitre cuts?) with e.g. a multi-tool and a jig, or by soaking/steaming the moulding to fit. Either way, it's not a 5-minute job, and will need some careful finishing afterwards. 👍
You could try cutting the molded piece off and then soaking in water for a few days, it will then bend to a certain amount. Cut the remaining board as Peter has shown and then gently bend and tack the mold back on to the skirting.
Peter Millard I thought about this many times whilst driving my van How about running say 3 separate lengths of skirting through planer thicknesser so you have the furthest moulded section out then the next then the flat board then do the bending planting each one on top as you go I probably haven’t explained it well but I know what I mean lol
Hi Peter, thanks for another great video. I used this technique years ago putting up dados in my post war built home, not one wall is true or even, I used a hand saw and a mitre box, still don't know how I had the patience or energy.
If you was to class this type of curved wall as an internal curve, how do you cut the baseboards for an external curved wall A curved wall the opposite curve to the curve in your video??
A concave curve would be the same. But you need to be very careful if you’re using natural timber as for some reason it doesn’t bend as readily in the other direction. Might also need soaking or steaming. 🤷♂️👍
Another great tips video Peter, thank you. I noticed that you used natural timber for your demonstration, have you done it with plywood or your 'favourite' MR MDF?
Thanks Bob! I haven’t no - I’ve only done this type of thing a few times for jobs and it’s always been with natural timber. I imagine MDF would be relatively easy, plywood a bit more of a challenge. There’s a video idea for you! 😂👍👍
I've only needed it a couple of times, but it's handy to have in the back of your mind and has all kinds of uses e.g. chair rail, picture rail, architrave etc... 👍
I did a load of these radius curved skirtings on a project a few years ago with Ogee Skirting & like yourself i didn't think too much of it i just did it & obviously as it was Ogee the upper saw kerf cuts came through the upper moulding so i neatly filled this in with caulk & a flexible piece of plastic to keep the radius curve once the skirting was bent & fixed. After i was no longer on the project i had 3 different carpenters ring me up to ask how i had done it as they couldn't do it on the other curved corners...... I was a bit shocked they couldnt do it to be honest especially as they could look at the ones i had previously done as a reference, so i just politely explained without trying to sound like a condescending git :)
I have a curved wall just like the one you did, in a bathroom I'm expanding now....I'm trying to figure out a way to wrap a wide crown moulding around that same corner up top....tricky. I may have to make a clay mold 1st to replicate the crown profile, then bend the clay mold, let it set up, then finally pour a plaster, or Bondo/epoxy mix into the mold....should be interesting, I've done a lot of things, but nothing like this. Any ideas anyone has would be much appreciated. Thanks for the video bud, good work!
They asked if they could send me one for review, I said OK, as long as I can compare it to my Kapex. So they sent it 👍👍 Won’t be a Festool vs ??? as they’re not directly comparable, but interesting to compare, anyway. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Yeah, I will be watching carefully, I would love a Kapex but I just can't justify it compared to what I have, its no where near as good as the Kapex when it comes to dust collection, but the ability to cut wood and metal with one blade is a real bonus for me. The are times when I wish for more accuracy but for most of what I do, its fine.
Yes, indeed, no knots in the curve. And no, never had any stress issues later on. A good suggestion from earlier on in the comments was to add glue (maybe PU) to the kerf cuts before bending, then this would strengthen the whole thing. As I say, I’ve never had a problem, but if it costs next to nothing and may help - why not?? 👍👍
About, 50/50, but “baseboard” has a much higher search rate than anything. It’s a bit of an experiment to see if it affects the rankings, one way or another, is all. 👍👍
This is one of those places where I would think the track saw would have been a better choice. Then you could have the flag stop as a pin in the previous cut to get concistent width :) Great videos as always :)
At 5.04 "Now obviously it's relatively easy to use this technique on a square-edged board like this, much more challenging if you have some sort of moulding along the top..." 🤷♂️
My only experience with that technique is years ago on MDF. Using a regular circular saw I found getting consistent spacing tricky, so the curve was about as round as a 50 pence piece 😂
Wait, I’m all confuddled now. I need to go and cut some dados in the casings, before trimming out the wainscotting with maple then moving on to the plywood shop cabinets. Then I’ll break out the 8x2s and cut them down to length with my mitre saw👍👍
Wrong, a chop saw moves up and down, a mitre saw, cuts mitre's a chop saw doesn't move left or right, although I see a few americans calling it a chopsaw... Have a look on screwfix and you will find that "Chop Saw" brings back Mitres saws. See here: www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/mitre-shears/what-is-a-mitre-cut/
Concave curve is harder, but same technique, and as mentioned in the vid, if you have to fill it then sawdust & PVA is a good starting point for the many, many tests you’ll be doing, Keith. Look forward to the video... 😬👍👍
Very simple explanation and straight to the point on how to do it. Not too much talking, Excellent video.
I was forced to do this for the first time about 6 months ago. Bottom of stairs had a round end on the bottom tread. I used 1/4 inch maple veneer plywood for the risers, and didn't want to change products for the curve. So I did exactly what you show. Set my saw depth, added a sacrificial stand-out fence, then cut the slots at equal spacing. Worked brilliantly. I filled the cuts with glue when I applied it, just in case it might need it.
iv done this a few times. it works great on square edges stuff. . i usually fill the kerfs with glue when fitting. it really strengthens it. i had a case where someone hit it with a trolley and it broke.
I do Stair Renovations for a living. I kerfed wider material when I first started but now I use 1/8" Plywood and sand down to about a 1/16" for the curve. I've found that I don't have the brittleness issues of kerfing, it's stronger than veneer and you can pack out as much as you want to cover any gaps where the bottom step meets the flooring. However, with a step, you don't have to worry about what to do with the top edge.
Good shout, thanks! 👍👍
@@PrettyPeople1111 I have a couple of pics that might be helpful but don't know how to load them into a TH-cam thread.
Excellent video! I'm going to make a circular kitchen island so this tutorial will come in useful. Thanks!
Pleasure! Hope it goes well! 👍👍
Another method is to slice the material into thin strips then re-glue them together while bent around a mold equal to the curve required. Once dried, trim the ends. This method lends better to non-painted finishes. There are quite a few videos on youtube describing this method. Some people even make furniture with it!
Yep, laminating works well and always plenty of ways to skin that cat, but this was about bending a 6x1 around a curve as quickly and easily (and cheaply) as possible, without knowing if it would be painted or left in natural timber. 🤷♂️👍
This requires a former made that is specific only to the radius of that curve, also would need some form of clamping caul or a vacuum bag. Admittedly a better finish but tremendously more work.
We had the opportunity to do just that not long ago on some baseboard. The "fun" challenge was that it was an inside radius of less than 8 inches, about 9/16" in thickness and 8 inches in height. We used basswood (for pliability) and steamed the laminations to pre bend on the form to ease the final bend which helped immensely. The glue up consisted of 5 laminations using Titebond 3 glue. Left in form for two days. The 4 inside corners held their shape with no springback whatsoever. These pieces actually went into a very luxurious bath area so that solid wood was the chosen material as opposed to a layers of thin MDF or baltic ply run vertically or some other material or method. Definitely a lot of work but turned out very well. Thanks for sharing and am always open to feedback and ideas.
I find before trying to bend it get a damp rag and wet it and most of the time it doesn’t split or crack. Another great video Peter👍
I made a full circle with plywood. Broke once. Made it twice. Looks good.
Managed to do some curved work using the tracksaw. Thanks for the tips.
what about using lamination - making a laminated skirting? vs kerf cuts?
Thanks for sharing. When I'm doing this I dribble a few kettles of nearly boiling water on the kerf cuts before fitting. I find this really increases the flexibility. I also put some expanding adhesive foam in the cuts. I'm not entirely sure if this does anything very useful but it seems a bit less fragile when it dries off.
Do you carry a survival kit in the tool bag to boil water or do you have the homeowner boil the water? Lol
Hey Peter ,i usually will wet it with a spray bottle to soften it up before bending it ,i do the same with dry wall when i do an arch ceiling in a tub enclosure,the fun ones are the 90 degees with small rounded corners (tight corners ) i fit it then glue them up before installing them (concave trim is lots of fun )
Thanks Syd! Yes, wetting works well, especially for tight curves. And don’t get me started on concaves 😮😂👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop dont get upset ,everyone knows you cant make concave moldings with track saw ,im sure it wouldnt be with out great difficulty
How does it work on 'Taurus' skirting, I had 20 ...19th century houses in Greenwich, London in 2011 all with 90°curved passageways ,chippy did a marvel job,tookhim a couple of days, however ,a different story with the decorators who had to finish to top edges ,that took a week n half by the time the rubbing down and painting started.......The old Taurus that was removed had 'Vs' cut in the back...........Good vid Pete*****
If you use a construction adhesive in the notches on the back it makes for a strong and stable bend. Great work Sir.
Thanks! 👍👍
Finish with the old sawdust and glue trick. 👍. I hope this works I’m heading to the shop now to give it a try. Thx. New subscriber here 🤗
Cast changes he says.. stunt doubles surely?
Fantastic guidance and advice as always.
Haha, stunt doubles is the perfect phrase, lol! Thanks! 👍👍
I've got to put a concave curve into an 18mm thick MDF skirting, to fit it into a bay. Will this technique work with MDF, or is it more likely to tear, do you think, due to it's inherent fibrous nature? I realise I'd have to put the kerfs into the "front side", then get creative with the filler.....
Never tried it. I’d be inclined to do a test first and see how kit goes, but I think it would be OK. 👍
Once you have completed the kerfing and confirmed you can bend it to the required shape - how about some epoxy glue in the kerfs and then it will hold the shape no matter what?
Yes, could be worth a try, great idea Norman! Or maybe PU adhesive - the slight 'foaming' may help fill the kerfs?? 👍
I would think filling those kerfs with construction adhesive would help with durability. With the face of that board being so thin in the kerfed areas I'd think it would be easy to crack if something hits it. Being stain grade it's not an easy fix.
I assume the same technique can be used on a dado rail. Will it work with mdf. Thanks
Yes, and yes. 👍
A Very well explained Video. Thanks
Thanks! 👍
beautiful work peter, its all in the detail
Thanks Andrew! 👍
Did a bathroom remodel and there is a slight bow in the wall because of plumbing issues. I am a non wood worker and this worked really well for the baseboard. Would this technique work for the crown molding? If not, any tips to share. Thanks, John.
Would depend on how intricate the moulding was, and whether the curve is internal, or external, how tight it is etc… I’ve never done it - crown moulding here in the UK is generally made of plaster - so can’t really advise. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop
Thanks for taking the time to reply.
perfect job, i would like to see how to bend skirting around an inside curve
Thank you so much being trying to figure a way out to have a piece of wood with quite a long curve.
I can’t and wouldn’t do the steaming process but what I just saw you do is brilliant.
Finally I can get the last piece done 👍🏻
Thank you very much, Just subscribed
i also add a wallpaper steamer to the flat surface before bending just to aid the bend it works well ...and using a moisture cure glue it helps that when using a curve as skirting i tend to lay a tape barrier with the floor surface and cut it away once finished this pucks up any spills or expansion but also prevents the board from gluing to the floor and being able to remove it down the line (you know if a electrician wants to remove the skirting to chase a cable )
Fantastic videos just what I was looking for.
I have just come back from Houston and visited the Home Depot and while in the Lumber section I noticed the skirtings which came in standards MDF lengths with a white primer similar to ours, but they also had additional flexible lengths which although identical seemed to be made of a soft pvc material which allowed you to form the skirting into any profile you chose I was able to bend one length completely on itself, haven’t seen it here yet.
Wow, that sounds interesting! And no, haven't seen that here either - I'll keep my eyes peeled, thanks!👍
CAN I USE WOOD FILLER TO COVER THE CUTS ON THE BOARD , SO I CAN SAND IT AND STAIN IT ?
YES.
@@10MinuteWorkshop 🪚🤙🛠
Great informative video Peter. Just noticed the glasses as well - they look great.
Thanks! The glasses are a few years old - found them in a drawer and through I’d better start wearing them, lol! 👍👍
Now this is just downright fantastic. I hope I can create a project where I can do this.
Thanks! 👍👍
Reminds me of a kitchen an old mate of mine was doing in his hippy and rather 'rustic' cottage 30 odd years ago - we had to curve the work surface (which would be tiled) by the entrance to allow people to get in and out of the tight space more easily. He was stuck when it came to the edging the curved work top before tiling (we'd 'done' half the kitchen already so they could use it and this was finishing off the job) and because he couldn't work out how to put the edge on curved and had chopped up several pieces of quite expensive/blagged and couldn't get anymore oak (I think) finishing trim and failed to get the geometry right with a mitre saw and was getting very frustrated. I suggested doing exactly this and carefully sliced into one of his offcuts by hand to show how it could be done. An hour or so later the job was done - we had to use parts of his bodged offcuts to complete the straight runs as he'd nearly wasted it all and I filled the visible cuts with sawdust and glue on that too. It looked very good when done anyway!
Amazing! Sounds like one of those jobs you can talk about happily afterwards, but at the time, not so much, lol 😂👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop exactly that! He was getting very grumpy about it all. Ended up looking really good.
TIP: BEFORE bending the piece, reinforce the piece with a bit of tape. It will reduce the chance of the piece snapping in two.
Once the glue is dry, and the piece is installed, remove the tape.
I like your work! And your videos. You make me want to change how I do my work. I'm a finish carpenter and I love doing closet work but the scope is entirely different and I think I'm gonna start doing built ins similar to yours. I have a festool domino joiner and have not put it to use like I should.
Thank you! 👍
Great video! Would this method work if wanting to curve the wood in the other direction?
Thanks! Never done it but don’t see why not. 👍👍
I have used a product that is a bendable plywood and veneered it in a matching species when the need a risen, I'm not sure if you have availability to such material in the UK, in NA it can be found in speciality lumber and drywall yards. B
Interesting, thanks! We can get ‘bendy’ ply and MDF, but only in relatively thin boards. Good trick with the veneer though, hadn’t thought of that one, thanks! 👍👍
Have you ever Kerfed finger jointed base? I’ve never done it before but feel like it will break easier than a regular one piece board. Thanks.
No, I never have - for just that reason. 🤷♂️👍
Very good and informative video. Thanks for sharing.
I've seen some other videos where this technique was shown but never so detailed and other important information.
How do you manage to have consequent distances between the cut-lines?
Why did you show this technique in the video with wood?
(Why) Is it not possible to do it with MDF?
Thanks Hans! I used natural timber as a/ that was the job, originally, and b/ it’s more difficult to do than with MDF. As mentioned in the video, consistency of kerf cuts is essential, and having a sacrificial fence is very useful to gauge this. 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Thanks for you explanation.
Great video and advice thank you for sharing the knowledge - a fellow carpenter from across the pond
Cheers my friend live well
Thank you - and you too! Best wishes from London! 👍👍
Pls is that a gypsum board in that was used in a this video
No, just a plain piece of Pine / Redwood.👍
Hi Peter. Is this possible to bend in the other direction? I'm designing a kitchen with curved corner units. Toe kick underneath would look awesome if it was curved to match. Not sure if it's possible. Will be using walnut veneer on birch ply. Any advice would be awesome. Cheers
Wow, sounds great! I'd say not with birch ply. You could probably do it by laminating up thin strips and gluing them together, then veneering the face, but lots of experimenting required, I'd think! 👍
Wow.....no track saw involved at all😂😂😂brilliant content as always Peter 👍🏼👍🏼
Thanks! Haha - it was so, soooo tempting, but I managed to resist. Just. 😆👍
Peter Millard bet it was watching you all the time 😂😂😂😂😂😂👍🏼
Very nice thanks
Would this technique work with a OAK skirting around a round bay window ? Great channel btw.
Never tried it, but it would probably be OK. You’d need to be a little careful about the blade kerfs - presumably you’d have a moulding around the top edge to hide them. 👍
I find it very challenging to control the depth of cut on a miter saw, it would have been the last type of saw I would have used for that, but you seem to do well. Is the Kapex that accurate then?
Yes. I started out trying an evolution mitre saw that has been sent to me, but there was so much flex in the trenching cut I switched to the Kapex.
@@10MinuteWorkshop
Thank you Peter for taking the time to answer.
My miter saw is a Metabo KGSV 72 XACT SYM, I have never managed to good control of depth with it.
Ar the time when I bought it I could not see what Kapex could do that the Metabo couldn't.. But depth control seems to be a clear difference then.
Thank you for clarifying that.
Interesting video. As it's painted anyway have you ever used what I would call the layering technique, ie building up to the thickness with a number of thin laminations?
No, never have, though I’m sure it’d work well. As mentioned in the vid the client hadn’t decided whether it was to be painted or not until after it was installed; yeah, one of those... 🤷♂️
@@10MinuteWorkshop I used to be indecisive but now I'm not so sure!
😂👍👍
Hi Peter, Great video. Could you tell me if this procedure would be successful on an internal corner? regards, Phil
Never tried it, but I don’t see why not. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop ok, Thanks Peter
Great video 👍
I have Almost finished the skirting on my lounge project. Curved bay window section remaining 😬. Would this method work on a concave bay window of I scored the front of the skirting? I am using mdf skirting so some 'shaping' can be performed if required (probable 😬)
If you scored the front you’ll have a lot of filling to do, but it should work, depending on how steep the curve is. Only one way to find out though... 🤷♂️👍👍
It worked 👍didn't need as many cuts as I thought. Few sacrificial pieces of scrap required but got there in the end. Just need to fill the thing.
Excellent! And thanks for letting me know! 👍👍
Thank you for the tips 👍
Great video! New subscriber here! Maybe (if you haven't already) make a video showing people how to use benderboard/veneer and Sonotube/veneer for many different radius projects. Old cabinet maker/woodworker here. Good woodworkers (you) are a rarity these days! Most custom woodworking shops have disappeared here in the NW and people need your videos! Thanks!
Thanks and welcome! I don't often do these tbh, so I just jumped at the chance when it came up. 👍
I just going thrue that kinde of tricks not so far ago, I mean on bumpy wall and that technic works as far as you figer out the metologi which you present.
I see you have evolution mitre saw. I will be pleased, to see them in action on your hands .
I'm unhappy owner of Parkside mitra/chop saw with have bended fence so have accuracy of the ax .
Tried few times to fix but no luck.I know that Andy touch that topic some time ago,but, I see he use now dewalt mitra saw.
So I'm looking forward for yours opinion.
Thanks Piotr! Yes, I have the evo mitre saw to play with, see how it goes in use. 👍
Does this work for inside curves too?
Yes, but you need to be careful not to try it on a curve that’s too tight. More filling needed as well, as the kerf-cuts open up on in inside curve. 👍
Very informative. Great clear video. Will this work with mdf scurtain or does it require a real wood face?
Works well with MDF - just need to be careful not to cut too deep 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks
Hi Peter. I have this exact job to do but with a curve in the other way concave I think they call it. Will this same technique work or will I have to trench cut and fill on the outer face. Luckily skirting is all white painted. Many thanks
Hi Richard. Same technique should work fine, depending on the radius of the curve. For some reason the timber I had was much more prone to splitting when bent concave - some experimentation needed, and maybe soaking the timber if it does seem to want to crack along the kerf lines. 👍👍
Wallpaper steamer works as well, if you’re working on a wider board 👍👍
dd dd Check out Louis Sazuddes (Tips from the Shipwright) he does planks in a plastic bag might be helpful.
Does tis work in reverse i.e. with the curve towards you as in a bay?
Never done it, but I’d imagine so. 🤷♂️👍
Why does it crack when i try this technique? I’m working with a pine riser, can it be that it’s too cold in my shop?
Too dry maybe? Cutting a little too deep? Cutting the kerfs a little too far apart? Or a little too close together 🤷♂️ It’s a balancing act, but the kerf cuts have to be very consistent to get a good bend. 👍
Peter - I have an old Victorian house with a curved wall in it. We are looking to replace the skirting there with unpainted timber. I have seen this technique before (but still a great video) but our skirting has an additional moulding on top of the flat board. Have you any tips or techniques for doing the moulded piece that sits on top?
Darren Reilly's earlier comment gives you an answer. When he describes using a flexible piece of plastic, I think he means that this is the tool he used to shape the caulk to match the moulding. It's certainly worth trying, and worth hiring a large mitre saw to complete the work.
I think Darren's answer was specifically aimed at something with a painted finish - much harder to achieve with natural timber 👍
Hi Colin. As I say in the video, it's much easier to do this with a square-edged timber than say, an Ogee or Torus moulding. At the risk of stating the obvious, if you do kerf cuts into the moulding they'll be visible, at least part-way, and will need filling. Depending on the radius of the curve, I think I'd be inclined to rip the moulding off the base, and try to bend this separately, either with tiny kerf cuts (maybe mitre cuts?) with e.g. a multi-tool and a jig, or by soaking/steaming the moulding to fit. Either way, it's not a 5-minute job, and will need some careful finishing afterwards. 👍
You could try cutting the molded piece off and then soaking in water for a few days, it will then bend to a certain amount.
Cut the remaining board as Peter has shown and then gently bend and tack the mold back on to the skirting.
Peter Millard
I thought about this many times whilst driving my van
How about running say 3 separate lengths of skirting through planer thicknesser so you have the furthest moulded section out then the next then the flat board then do the bending planting each one on top as you go
I probably haven’t explained it well but I know what I mean lol
Hi Peter, thanks for another great video. I used this technique years ago putting up dados in my post war built home, not one wall is true or even, I used a hand saw and a mitre box, still don't know how I had the patience or energy.
Wow, that’s dedication! Nice thin kerf cuts with a handsaw though! 👍👍
Hi Peter, good advice ☺
I have a really ugly bit of skirting in my hall around a bit of curved wall, I'm going to try this and replace it.
Great video thanks
👍
If you was to class this type of curved wall as an internal curve, how do you cut the baseboards for an external curved wall
A curved wall the opposite curve to the curve in your video??
A concave curve would be the same. But you need to be very careful if you’re using natural timber as for some reason it doesn’t bend as readily in the other direction. Might also need soaking or steaming. 🤷♂️👍
Love it! Thanks for sharing
Another great tips video Peter, thank you. I noticed that you used natural timber for your demonstration, have you done it with plywood or your 'favourite' MR MDF?
Thanks Bob! I haven’t no - I’ve only done this type of thing a few times for jobs and it’s always been with natural timber. I imagine MDF would be relatively easy, plywood a bit more of a challenge. There’s a video idea for you! 😂👍👍
MDF is a lot easier than timber its more flexible
❤ excellent!
Ace trick Peter.
That looks a really nice job, I’ve never had to do it but when I do, I’ll have an idea how 👍
I've only needed it a couple of times, but it's handy to have in the back of your mind and has all kinds of uses e.g. chair rail, picture rail, architrave etc... 👍
Interesting video. Is that an Evolution mitre saw I see in the background and in some of the clips? Replacing your Festool mitre saw? 😯
Thanks! Yes, it’s the Evo. mitre saw; they’ve sent me one to review, and I said OK - but only if I can compare it to the Kapex... 🤔😬
@@10MinuteWorkshop Hahaha do it!!
Thank you Peter. Very well explained...cheers...rr Normandy
Thanks Richard! 👍
What would you do when it comes to decorative skirting? Where the profile doesn’t allow you to make such deep cuts?
Rip it and bend the moulding the old way e.g. wetting, steam etc... 👍
Our work shop is on site with a coffin makers, this technique is how they curve the coffin sides.
Wow, good to know, thanks! 😂👍
Yes, we called them coffin cuts in the boat building industry.
I did a load of these radius curved skirtings on a project a few years ago with Ogee Skirting & like yourself i didn't think too much of it i just did it & obviously as it was Ogee the upper saw kerf cuts came through the upper moulding so i neatly filled this in with caulk & a flexible piece of plastic to keep the radius curve once the skirting was bent & fixed.
After i was no longer on the project i had 3 different carpenters ring me up to ask how i had done it as they couldn't do it on the other curved corners...... I was a bit shocked they couldnt do it to be honest especially as they could look at the ones i had previously done as a reference, so i just politely explained without trying to sound like a condescending git :)
Nice! If only you could charge for that tie, lol! 😕😂👍
I have a curved wall just like the one you did, in a bathroom I'm expanding now....I'm trying to figure out a way to wrap a wide crown moulding around that same corner up top....tricky. I may have to make a clay mold 1st to replicate the crown profile, then bend the clay mold, let it set up, then finally pour a plaster, or Bondo/epoxy mix into the mold....should be interesting, I've done a lot of things, but nothing like this. Any ideas anyone has would be much appreciated. Thanks for the video bud, good work!
Have you looked into polyurethane molding?
Ahh, I can see my trusty orange steed there, is this just something you use or do I sense another cheap tool vs...?
They asked if they could send me one for review, I said OK, as long as I can compare it to my Kapex. So they sent it 👍👍 Won’t be a Festool vs ??? as they’re not directly comparable, but interesting to compare, anyway. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Yeah, I will be watching carefully, I would love a Kapex but I just can't justify it compared to what I have, its no where near as good as the Kapex when it comes to dust collection, but the ability to cut wood and metal with one blade is a real bonus for me. The are times when I wish for more accuracy but for most of what I do, its fine.
Thank you
👍
I would imagine knots must be avoided. Also, are there ever any stress issues such as splitting at a later date?
Yes, indeed, no knots in the curve. And no, never had any stress issues later on. A good suggestion from earlier on in the comments was to add glue (maybe PU) to the kerf cuts before bending, then this would strengthen the whole thing. As I say, I’ve never had a problem, but if it costs next to nothing and may help - why not?? 👍👍
It never occurred to me but is your main audience in the US? I only ask because of the baseboard thing.
About, 50/50, but “baseboard” has a much higher search rate than anything. It’s a bit of an experiment to see if it affects the rankings, one way or another, is all. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I can see that. I hadn't heard of baseboard until very recently which is why it stuck out.
Peter Millard Sly Old Peter🙌👍
It’s refreshing to find someone on TH-cam who isn’t American and drowning in tools :)
This is one of those places where I would think the track saw would have been a better choice. Then you could have the flag stop as a pin in the previous cut to get concistent width :)
Great videos as always :)
#TreeMeat is my new favorite term! 😂 Great video!
😆👍
Good for plain skirting not for routed pattern skirting
At 5.04 "Now obviously it's relatively easy to use this technique on a square-edged board like this, much more challenging if you have some sort of moulding along the top..." 🤷♂️
How to put 1/4" round molding
Wet it, bend it and nail it down. 👍
Great video would have been nice to see it done with say a torus skirting
Thanks! I agree, but too much info for an entry-level video, I think. Maybe an advanced one, later. 🤔👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop yes would be interesting to see if you can fit it in ,crying out for a part 2 !!! Lol thanks
My only experience with that technique is years ago on MDF. Using a regular circular saw I found getting consistent spacing tricky, so the curve was about as round as a 50 pence piece 😂
😂😂👍👍 At least it didn’t snap, lol! Had to do this damn thing 3 times before I got one that looked decent! 😂😂
Haha, yes, I saw the patreon video 🤣
Hey Pete. Noticed you call it a mitre saw? You know we call it a chop saw here in the 🇬🇧. You’ve been watching too many American woodworking vids!? 😂👍
Wait, I’m all confuddled now. I need to go and cut some dados in the casings, before trimming out the wainscotting with maple then moving on to the plywood shop cabinets. Then I’ll break out the 8x2s and cut them down to length with my mitre saw👍👍
Wrong, a chop saw moves up and down, a mitre saw, cuts mitre's a chop saw doesn't move left or right, although I see a few americans calling it a chopsaw... Have a look on screwfix and you will find that "Chop Saw" brings back Mitres saws. See here:
www.wonkeedonkeetools.co.uk/mitre-shears/what-is-a-mitre-cut/
Peter Millard 😂😂😂👍👍
Phil Sexton dude. I’m a 46 year old uk carpenter. We all call them chop saws! Same as we call circular saws “skill saws”. Just our thing!?
Silver Fox Well I beat you on the age and I only hear Americans use chop and Skill saw. A mitre is a mitre at the end of the day mate ;o)
Great 👍
Eye spy a work zone router ?
Yes, had that a little while, want to compare it with the Katsu, but haven't got around to it yet. 🤷♂️
Ooooooooo
evo time?! ⌚😊😁
One day, Tom; just not today... 😂👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop Hahaha fair enough!!! 😛 🤐
PETER hit the bell twice now and you get all the vids notifcations.
Thanks! 🔔🔔👍
what about bend the other way?
It’ll work, but there’ll be a lot of filling to do. 👍
You need to be kerful when doing all those cuts on the mitre saw 😀
😂😂👍👍 Boom boom! 😂😂
Thanks Pete, that's given me some great ideas ;)
ممكن اتعرف عليك لكى استفيد منك اكثر
We make coffins this way
Wow!
You slightly remind me of Tim Cook from Apple.
😂 A cheaper version, in every sense 👍
Useful link if anyone is trying to work out the arc calulations. www.blocklayer.com/kerf-spacing.aspx
‘Tree meat’ 😂
😆👍
السلام عليكم ورحمه الله وبركاته
Hmm. Wheel arches, curved both ways.
I thought you were going to use steam or magic.
Thanks bbbbb
OK, we'll call this the 'convex' curve. Now, wait for it... how would you deal with a 'concave' curve....arhhhhh?
...and what if i want a natural wood finish [not a painted one] ah, gotcha?!
Concave curve is harder, but same technique, and as mentioned in the vid, if you have to fill it then sawdust & PVA is a good starting point for the many, many tests you’ll be doing, Keith. Look forward to the video... 😬👍👍
Take the piece Pete has cut here.... Would it not just bend "backwards" leaving the inner-facing vee slots for filling ?
😎👍☘️