7 Pet Peeves with Modern Mountain Bikes
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 มิ.ย. 2023
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4 (and ½) Summer Riding tips: / 4-5-summer-tips-85207251
How to Hit New Jumps: / hitting-new-and-83883299
Berm line choice: / line-choices-for-82322348
How to ride like a pro (and not a squid): / how-to-ride-like-80864886
How to MANUAL: / how-to-manual-my-79363708
Wet weather riding tips: / wet-weather-tips-78055037
How to ride ROUGH corners: / how-to-ride-76582910
50 tips to be a better mountain biker: / 50-tips-to-be-75352100
How to land jumps: / how-to-land-74063598
How to ride steep trails: / how-to-ride-72705363
How to sprint without pedaling: / how-to-sprint-71580461
How to ride flat corners: / how-to-ride-flat-68552084
How to jump found gaps: / 67255256
How to stoppie turn: / 65842496
How to drop: / 64552391
How to LEAN in corners: / how-to-lean-in-63176556
How to Ride Light on the Bike: / how-to-ride-on-61941975
Riding technique differences between hardtails and full suspension: / 60435182
How to rut track: / 59366938
5 tips to make flat trails more fun: / 58058983
5 tips to improve bike control and balance: / 56839920
How to levitate out of corners: / 55607066
Three simple cornering tips: / 54371316
How (and when) to rock roll or drop: / 53126562
How to jump with fluidity- and not DEAD SAILER! / 51914476
How to Lanual: / 50695443
How to climb ledges without a bunny hop: / 49476021
Which brake to use when: / which-brake-to-48108425
Different bikes, different riding techniques: / 46925782
How to ride FLAT PEDALS through the ROCKS: / how-to-ride-flat-45662347
How to ride wet roots and steep chutes: / 44507851
How to ride with style: / how-to-ride-with-43349450
How to jump for height vs distance: / 42202183
Common manual questions answered: / 41006264
How to land jumps: / 39928153
My 3 favorite skills drills: / if-i-could-only-38809964
How to manual: / how-to-manual-37684861
Cutty: / 36579859
Manual a berm: / 35496772
How to ride in Sedona: / 34436065
Nosewheelie: / 32742504
Bump jump: / 31881231
Trials basics for trail riders: / 31145344
Tight berms: / 30389457
Aggressive braking: / 29579507
Confidence for mountain biking: / 28817411
Cornering: / 27981205
Flowing/pumping down the trail: / 27288868
Stoppie through turns: / 26296762
Technical climbing: / 25234847
Boost jumps: / 24161821
Utilizing the wheelie on the trail: / 23017910
How to wheelie: / 21879606 - ภาพยนตร์และแอนิเมชัน
![[TH] Esports World Cup : Knockout Stage Day 3](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/t3FcD5TD8qI/mqdefault.jpg)
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Nailed it with the volume spacers. I’m an average weight Moto guy and the modern air suspension on mountain bikes is…..ok. As we have learned with mullet wheels, big front disc brakes and longer travel, the bicycle industry could learn a bit from the MX world.
Yeah, and why is mtb suspension continuously so boutique and expensive. Top of the line MX suspension is way higher technology and quality, but also cheaper and more rebuildable. Omnicorps ruin everything. Japanese free market made dirt bikes really good and reasonably priced, shame that never seems to happen with mtb.
@@apodski no doubt! I guess this comes to a point not mentioned. Why do some mountain bikes cost more than dirt bikes when most bicycles are still very primitive compared to the tech a dirt bike has?
@@MX763 Yeah, a 20 year old 125 MX is a space ship compared most downhill bikes, materials and engineering, yet still fully user serviceable, they weren't that expensive new and they are dirt cheap now.
@@MX763 Dirt bikes also got this way unbelievably fast, they went from expensive, fragile, and unrefined European machines to the aforementioned affordable space ship in just 25 years. I guess there wasn't as much big business and patents in the way back then.
Dirt bikes may seem heavy and agricultural compared to MTBs, but virtually everything on a dirt bike is machined or forged as light as possible out of high end alloys, and thoroughly torture tested. We just need that robustness and design scaled down to handle 20% of the speed and 5% of the power. Nobody wants to do it, instead they want marketing and huge profits.
I weigh 230 at the moment and i need to run max spacers in everything or i bottom out everywhere 😭
Small note: Pedal torque in the 35-55Nm range is understandable. As the screw diameter increases, so does the torque. That said, if you’re greasing the threads (recommended) you could likely do half the torque and be fine.
I think I passed your house right when you were coming home from the pump track this past weekend. I should’ve said hi!
A couple questions for you:
1) Have you tried any steel frames? Gearbox bikes? Anything “out of the ordinary” that you think could change the industry?
2) On your tire review videos, would you consider putting a summary at the end with a decision matrix? (highlight tire performance attributes and mark which are +, -, and neutral)
3) Are you familiar with Paul Aston’s channel? @astonMTB , he has some intriguing theories on how mountain bikes should be designed and spec’d
Thanks for all of the content!
Mine would be:
1) Setup. Especially suspension. I think the Norco's approach with detailed, baseline, instructions for everything is awesome. But, with modern forks and shocks having such a broad range of adjustment (and factoring their price points too), why is it so hard (or complicated) to dial in? Most recommendations seem like an after thought - which is crazy for such expensive products.
2) The dropperpost issue. Being a bit in the short side, but with extra short legs, my first glance at a geo-table goes to the seattube length or seatpost insertion - if I can't fit 160+mm dropper - no good. Which, in the past, has had me hold off buying brands like Evil, Banshee or Mondraker even though I love their products, because there was too much uncertainty if I could fit the dropper I'd want. I'd rather ride single speed than forgo a long dropper.
3) Tires! I mean choice is good, but jebus rhey make it difficult and way too complex to choose a tire: casings, variants on casing, patterns, sizing, rim size variants, compounds, and all their propiorty tech, it's sooo under informed/explainded, which in turn makes it hard to want to try something new - also considering how expensive tires have gotten too.
As a Clydesdale rider, I actually have found that volume reducers are the bane of my suspension woes... I finally broke down and worked with a local suspension guru to get my Fox38 on my RipMo working perfect for me. The suspension guru actually used a volume reducer but in the negative chamber instead of the normal air chamber tokens are shoved these days. My basic SAG air for the fork went from 140psi to 120psi and allowed me to fall more in line with rebound and compression settings to fine tune those for my riding style. For me, most tokens still don't keep my suspension high enough in its travel but instead puts me in a very narrow band of travel that makes a very harsh ride experience.
Great pet peeves for the rest of the video and could not agree more. On the hydration note, I am looking for my next XC suspension bike to be able to hold at least two water bottles. :-)
Yeah positive air chamber tokens will only slightly increase mid stroke and will affect end stroke much more.
I, (also 250+) have to pull most of the tokens out of a Fox fork for it to not feel like someone is kicking my handlebars on every bump. Then it works a bit less effectively, but it at least feels better than a rigid fork. Part of the issue is that Fox factory valving is set up for 240lbs and under.
Yeah I’m over 325 here and filling a 170 Fox fork and 160 shock with spacers just made it ride like an XC hardtail. Now I’m on Ohlins and can actually achieve proper sag - I have to choose between fully open which means using full travel multiple times on every ride even if the features aren’t big, or going to position 3 and it being a little too harsh but I can tolerate it. VPP is the best I’ve felt for us Clydes since it has such a high anti squat throughout most of the travel
I ride XL bikes with ~820mm between BB and saddle and my last two bikes came with 170mm droppers which didn’t lower nearly enough. Have been very thankful for the OneUp 240mm dropper and the fact that it fits in the bikes.
Hydration pro tip, if your going out for a 1 hour ride. You should hydrate prior to the ride enough that you really don't need high capacity water bottle. Volume spacer are a poor fix for bad air spring design. My biggest pet peeve is geo numbers, I am now riding XL frames with 65 mm stems to keep from smashing my knees into the controls and I am only 6 feet tall, on some frames I would have to go to XXL to run a short stem. I spend a lot of time when I get a new bike to get my fit to match a previous bike that is comfy. I just picked up a Canyon gravel bike (that feels like my old 90s mtb) and due to stand over I wound up on a medium frame! MTB designers have screwed up the fit of most bikes over the past 6 years or so.
Totally agree on pre-hydrating. No opinion on geo, I ride older bikes that just fit me. Lucky me!
- Cheers
Another big one I'll bring up. Crank lengths. 165mm cranks should be what most bikes ship with, even 170s are longer than necessary on anything less than a XL frame size. Nearly all bikes ship with 170 or even 175mm cranks. Shorter cranks are a big help with the lower BB heights like on the Ripmo.
I have 170mm on my XL Canyon Spectral I get the odd pedal strike but they just scrape rather than hang up. I'm 6'5" btw.
My peeve there, is longer cranks on the XL or XXL, when the bottom bracket is the same height. A longer wheelbase bike is more likely to hit pedals/chainring than a shorter one with the bb height.
@@tjb8841 That's because frame makers don't increase the stack accordingly, instead they increase the crank length so you don't sit as high on the bike, thus maintaining a less ridiculous seat/bar height ratio.
Awesome points! Dropper posts, bottles and even extra bottle mounts.
I’d like to see more bikes with bottle mounts under the top tube for other stuff!
IMHO XC bikes and short travel trail bikes should be able to fit 2 bottles by default. I'll give enduro bikes a pass there because big travel bikes with 55 and 60mm stroke shocks are already prevalent enough and we shouldn't be encouraging that.
Jeff, at the shop where I work we have sold literally hundreds of Spires and they all fit really long droppers. I have a large with a 240mm dropper and often we run 210 on mediums. Your frame probably has clearance issues due to the internal routing tube being too long. We have seen that happen a couple times and the FT was replaced by Transition. Cheers!
i was gonna say
Feel stupid asking anywhere because I haven't had a modern mtb with a dropper yet, but why does it sound like longer droppers=lower drop? Do shorter length droppers not drop into the tube the same amount of distance that a longer one could? It doesn't sound logical to someone that hasn't used one why it sounds like longer length droppers can be inserted further. Like if I finally go build my dream bike, I'm still confused if at 5'7 if I would want/need a 200mm dropper just for the ability to drop lower?
It's so you can ideally drop your seat right down to the collar for full clearance. To do that, and then have the correct full extension pedal height, you need a longer dropper post. It all comes down to seat tube length and inseam of course.
@@LastAphelionYou can drop a shorter post all the way down but when fully extended could be too low..and if you raise it to get the proper ride height then the collar is higher..not allowing you to drop if as far as you might want. A longer dropper allows you to keep your seat at the proper height yet get it down further and out of the way (as long as the seat tube can accommodate).
Definitely on point w/ the dropper issue , low BB's, and volume spacers.
Thanks for the amazing Video. Love the way U ride. As a short rider always on a small bike, its difficult to find space for a water bottle. I run a Double Bottle Adapter. It helps 2 full size bottles stay clear of the shocks and frame :)
I did couple months of research and went for a bike that's got great components!
I chose Vitus Sommet! I got to say, what an awesome bike it is 🤘
Living in the middle east I couldn't agree more about the water bottle. With temperatures only getting hotter we need better equipment to address the heat.
Good points all around! Too low BB leads to dangerous surprise pedal strikes. Not being able to use a full 24 oz bottle drives me nuts. I had to find some random bottle cage on Amazon with lots of adjustability pushed all the way down and bent slightly to just be able to get a non-insulated 24 oz bottle in my frame so I didn't have to buy some $90 titanium cage, and still I can't use an insulated 24 oz... I was very close to drilling new holes and putting in some rivnuts! I chopped my seat tube by 25mm to keep using a 170mm dropper! Torque specs can be crazy, I don't use a torque wrench on any bike parts. Thankfully I have enough mechanical experience to use good judgement and have never had issues with anything coming loose or being damaged from too tight or loose.
Interesting comment on the Niner WFO. The difference between high/low settings on the flip chip is significant. Tech climbing is not great in low, but that's not really what the bike is designed for. I have 165mm cranks on mine, so that helps. What a fun bike though, my goodness...
125mm dropper in my Commencal Meta AM (Large!)... my wife's got a 85mm dropper in her Meta TR small... I do think Commencal smartened up in subsequent years. Our next bikes will have at least 175s. Putting kinks or fasteners through seat tubes is a no-no. We need that travel! 💪
Personally I think what transition and specialised are doing is amazing with versatility in there bikes. Ie the patrol and stumpy with removable headset cups for reach adjust and fork compatibility etc. I think brands could make bikes way more adjustable but tbh it’s not really a massive problem just something I would like to see. Bit of a Santa Cruz fan boy and I love my v6 nomad but would love a nomad with reach adjust and dual crown compatibility.
My biggest pet peeve is that most bike manufacturers charge retail prices for components on their builds, when we all know dang good and well that they get a substantial discount on parts. Especially when they buy them in bulk. I mean instead of charging 12 grand for a bike with parts that add Jensen retail prices for each individual piece, they could share the cost savings. better yet, sell me the frame without a shock and let me spec everything I want since I'm going to end up paying retail for said parts anyway. Don't even get me started on "XT or GX" builds with NX/SLX everything except for the shifter.
Propain is the only company I know of that will sell the frame without the shock, nice feature
@@JJ_MTB_15 commencal will too
Excellent video Jeff. My dropper is 175mm. 200mm would be excellent. That Firebird looks tempting.
Yes, it made the list
Totally agree on slightly higher bottom brackets. Clipping your pedals on chunk on the trail can really take the fun out of a ride. My riding has obviously adapted, but it would be better to get away from the 'lower is better' mentality, and find a better compromise between cornering and ground clearance.
Thanks for the link to Jensen. I needed some service parts 🔧
I can’t wait for Jeff to get a hold of a Kona Honzo ESD, which was a radical test mule for Konas Process X. And my favourite happy accident that I’ve ever owned.
The suspension being designed for a sub 150lb rider is a big one of mine. The Ripmo is a big offender there, I have a cascade link and 3 spacers in the shock (had 5 spacers prior to the cascade link) to get the bike so it doesn't bottom out constantly at 250lbs. Mine also only came with a 150mm dropper and since I got the free upgrade to a Bike Yoke dropper thanks to 2020 supply chains I'm loathe to replace it with something longer because it's such a good dropper.
Go coil and you will never go back
As a rider that is 6'4" 240 you are spot on with all the issues.
Totally agree. The first thing I look at a bike immediately is seat tube measurement and maximum insertion - what’s terrible is that insertion is the first thing I look at, yet most bike companies don’t even have it on the geometry part of the website directly - I have to email them. Also agree with the water bottle part, if a bike can’t fit a large water, I’m not buying it. I hope bike companies read all the comments here.
Question, I don’t get your comment on the volume spacer part. Are you saying suspension should be more progressive right from the start out of the box?
My size medium Switchblade handles my 210 dropper without issue, super important for me as my legs are awkwardly long. Thanks Pivot!
My pet peeve is rear derailleurs - or more specifically, the decades old design drug over from road biking that bend all to crap if you look at it hard. I'm kind of stoked on the LAL idea and am hoping to see more people come up with new ideas that are more use specific, stronger, or more protected.
this guy predicted the sram transmission
4:39 I prefer suspension without volume reducing spacers. I ride on EXT ERA V1. I don't need a flat socket/suspension socket, and a ratchet wrench on the trail. I only need a shock pump.
I can test ride it and adjust as needed, and repeat until it feels right.
Great list!
A workaround for bottle cages is to install them on the handlebar. Fidlock also offers rubber strap mounted mounts. But round plastic clamps also exist by Fidlock, Nicolai offers several options, so far only where I've found them. This requires you to get the correct clamp for the tube size. and is for round tubes. But I could install it on the down tube, top tube if I want. Fidlock offers bottles with a cap, which is a must in my opinion.
There was a bottle and mount system that has two bottles I forgot who makes it. As for tiny bottle YT bikes has a custom Fidlock bottle for their Jeffsy bikes. But Fidlock offers their regular bottles in smaller sizes. Like 450ml. But thee YT bikes bottle has an unusual shape to fit that bike. It also fits on Nicolai/Geometron G1, but G1 does not have mounts, but you can install a bracket, as Geometron thought of this, it's a mountinh hole at the BB area without compromising the down tube. and cable routing mounts at the rocker link bracket. I think it has to be ordered at Geometron.
Fidlock also offers Uni connector, which has BOA, which hold a bottle in place, so can mount any size type of bottle. So you could have a bag or tiny bottle and secure it.
On the subject of torque specs, there were a number of screws and bolts which I had been under-torquing massively without using my torque wrench, namely lock on grips, axles and stem bolts
Those are the things not necessarily need to be torqued to the spec. Long story short, composite deforms and torque value won't really go up much. Axles and stem bolts have max torque value so people don't destroy them. As long as there's no slippage, it's fine.
There's also things you want to deliberately under-torque, like your brake levers, you want them to move if you crash so they don't break.
I haven't had any issues torquing MTB stem bolts to spec. With composite bars you'll want to be careful to not overdo the torque (and use a carbon paste to prevent slipping). Now on BMX... you have to do substantially more torque than MTB because of the riser bars' moment arm.
Very real about pedal mounting torque. I NEVER torque them down, only hand tight them, never screwed out.
Reverse thread directions help with that 👍
I do own and use torque wrenches for most things but my hand wrist and elbow torque settings are pretty close and work in a pinch for on the trail repairs
I just got a torque wrench, the park tool beam one. I was surprised how accurate my own judgement was. Spot on except for the really heavy duty ones.
Properly speced wheels and tires on enduro bikes would be amazing. My trek slash is such an incredible bike but the stock wheels and tires are already upgraded after 6 months
The Bontrager Line 30 comps died that quick? You would hope they're decent because the Bontrager high engagement hubs are a big selling point to those wheels. Tire selection is getting better with lots of good non-Maxxis options out there, of course Bontrager tires are still trash, they didn't go the route of Specialized and actually put effort into making good tires.
It took me a while to get my 160mm 145mm enduro dialed , with all the upgrades I got it down to 34 lbs and it rides amazing and I’m 170 lbs with riding gear on no volume reducers at all Zeb ultimate fork….Fox float x performance elite shock….
I would love to see an industry standard for ebike motor & control mounting. Since switching to an ebike I always feel like I need to flip a bike sooner than I would a normal bike just to keep up with the tech but sell mine while it's still relevant.
I use torque specs in a similar way as you do, look at the spec and assess. I use a torque wrench for everything carbon and cockpit, basically when you're clamping something. After that for pedals i go hand tight(because after that you wanna unalive yourself when removing them. For bb i also use torque wrenches.
But it might be because im an engineer and i try to respect how the bike/parts were designed and how it was intended to be used lol
I definitely use a torque wrench even if I'm not dealing with carbon. But some parts I do by feel.
To your number 1 point, the Ripley AF's ability to take well over 200mm of dropper was a big part of why I chose it. Coming from a BMX freestyle back ground and being short of leg, long of torso, (for my height,) I have hated mtb standover for decades. Getting an appropriate reach meant using a long, slow steering stem, or getting a bike with a roadie-like standover. Modern bikes feel almost like Trials frames, (in a good way,) compared to mtbs from the 80s-10s.
Right on Jeff !
This video really got me thinking on a different level. I get a lot of pedal strikes on my kona honzo and always thought it was a tecknick thing but I was like to try a higher one and see if it helps.
My peeve is Overly steep seat tubes! I think we hit the sweet spot at 76-76.5. Steeper than that just feels weird on a trail bike. I get it for an enduo race machine, but not for tail bikes
Overly steep STA, especially on Hats with like 140mm travel up front. My knees can't cope with it
You hit Number 4 on the spot. I have a Ripley AF and the amount of pedal strikes has led me to now a dislocated shoulder. Not fully blaming the bike (user fault most-likely) but ever since I went from a hard tail to this bike, the amount of strikes has been near insane. Raise the bottom bracket.
Lower bb feels better on flow trails... most riders ride flow trails. at my local mtb park the groomed flow trails are always packed, and the natural terrain ones are empty. mtb manufacturers are all about following the demand from riders. there are nich products with higher bbs or you can get one that is adjustable, i always ride my bikes in high position
@@manaknight333same, I go to Mountain Creek, Thunder, Killington and Highland and the flow trails, especially the blue ones like Cat's Paw, Jump Start, Blue Magic and Gronk are always packed. If there's a bigger market for flow than tech, and clearly there is, that's the direction manufacturers are gonna go ... And most kids I see are almost exclusively riding jump/flow trails, so it's gonna become even more prevalent.
I have a mullet and recently changed the cranks from 175mm to 165mm and it has helped a lot with pedal strikes.
I'm with @holyspokes608. Try a shorter crank. It won't solve low BB issues, but it helps. 5mm or 10mm can make a surprising difference in clearance.
Going from a hardtail to a fs makes a difference on its own as you can pedal while the rear suspension is compressed which makes the effective bb height a lot lower. Maybe less sag could be a solution but thats a whole other topic
While not the most technical of the points, I’m glad you mentioned the full-size water bottle clearance. It is a drag.
7. i use a torque wrench and never had anything back out or fail on me, but i'm also a light 140lbs
1. dropper post - my biggest pet peeve is that thomson doesn't make > 150mm dropper. been on the same dropper for 8 years, and had to go with another when i finally got a new bike that needed a longer dropper
Would love to see your opinions or review of the Fezzari Delano Peak. Full sus with two water bottle holders is very intriguing
I never used to mind not having a bottle since i would wear a pack . But the last few years i like to take minimal kit, i have a whyte e180 and you cant even fit a whyte water bottle in the frame. I had to get the smallest fidlock bottle since it was the only thing that would fit in and only by about 3mm. Pretty sure its a 425ml bottle which doesn't go far.
Mechanical engineer here - lots of torque wrenches in my tool box. As long as the torque spec covers things not coming loose...and stuff not breaking (especially stripping threads... ugh), I'm a happy MTBer. Sure, I don't drag a torque wrench out on the trail, but for all the rest of stuff (minus maybe wheel axles and pedal axles), it's getting used. Especially the critical safety stuff: headsets, rotor bolts, lockring for cassettes...list goes on.
But yeah, for suspension bolts that come loose...or axles coming loose, I'm much less pleased by some torque specs. Wish it could be simpler... but you wouldn't believe how badly a general user can screw up fastening something together. Torque specs are really CYA in that regard.
Ok engineer
Great video
Torque wrenches are very easy to use incorrectly in several different ways so that if you do a couple of these things wrong in 'one torquing' then you could be way of. For instance, most headset clamps have two bolts. If you torque one and then torque the other and go with that, then the first bolt you torqued will be under torqued and you will have a weak clamp (and the second bolt will actually be over stressed). This is because when you torqued the second bolt, the torque value will overcome and surpass the value of the first bolt. The first bolt had to overcome all original forces working against it. Therefore, most of the work for the second bolt was already done and it will snug down a little more, leaving the first bolt lacking. When two bolts are configured next to each other like that, you need to go back and forth a couple of time until they are evened out.
The wrench also has to be held and moved in a very specific manner. If you deviate from this, then the end values can be all over the place. Then there's the preparation of the mating surfaces and the preparation of the fasteners. If there is any dirt on the fastener threads for instance, the wrench will click or register before the desired torque.
Research torque wrench use from the automotive or engineering fields and you'll be much happier with your results. Once you really know what's going on it is very easy.
i use a torque wrench often, but also rely on the german method of getting things guttentight
Torque wrench for safety. Seems my bolts get less or more tightened depending on my mood... not safe with something like center lock brake rotors. Suspension bushings/bearings also come to mind. My brain wants them TIGHT, but too much is more than enough. Torque wrench use lets me relax out on the trail.😊
Based on my recent experiences I would venture to say that there's a lot of overpriced garbage being sold, including by top brand names and their components. Had an issue that couldn't be resolved with a brand new fox fork. Terrible service by fox. Swapped it for a rockshox lyrik ultimate. Wasn't assembled properly and leaking oil right out of the box. Sent it back. They fixed it but didn't put set screw back into the adjustment knob. Further annoyances. Brand new trp brakes and the rear appears to be somehow defective. Hasn't been fun dealing with this bs constantly for the past 6 months or so. Quality control is zero and they are pushing out defective product at top dollar prices. Unacceptable but I guess this is just how we do things nowadays...smh
@Hitmeup-213 you want a beat down? OK ill hit you up 👊
How do you feel about Banshee bikes? I've still got my mk1 spitfire and will be in the market for an enduro bike this winter as I've started doing a bit of racing. Love the Transitions but I'm also tempted to get a newer Banshee as I've had a good experience with this one.
I use Nuun. They are a Seattle company. Moving to the PNW next year from Colo.
@Hitmeup-213 Yea? Cool. What did I win?
I torqued my handlebars to spec and then twisted them out of position while doing a trackstand in a parking lot. Lesson learned.
I don’t know if my 2021 GT Force can fit more than a 150mm post while still keeping it slammed, but as a 5’6” rider I’m still getting along with the 125mm stock post fairly well. Outside of that my bike didn’t make the list
Great list Jeff. I would add in frame storage. Now that I have it I won’t buy another bike without it. Seems a little silly, but strapping a tube & tools onto a frame is lame.
I have a spire and really wish I could slam 200 or even 240mm post like the norco shore can
I use torque-wrench anything that has to do with carbon, magnesium or cockpit.
I’ve seen too many stem bolts or threads snap/strip from over-tightening. 😮
Great points!
Love the Green-Gold stem combo - solid gold!!
What I been wondering lately: Where is the future of MTB going? It seems everything is getting bigger. Pretty soon we're going to have a trail bike with 200mm F/R with 32" wheels!!...LOL.
I understand innovation is what makes us pull out our wallets, but bikes these days are already so damn good, what, if anything, can make them better? I've been noticing incremental changes which are consistent, like Geo, but no significant innovation.
On the final peeve... My pet peeve is hardcore hardtails which don't have clearance for a fully slammed long dropper post! It's insane. Trek Roscoe.. I'm looking at you!
My Cube bike comes with a steer stop headset.. the steer angle is too small for some things.. and it isn't even needed since the fork wouldn't hit the frame if it could turn 360°..
Nailed all of these!
As far as BB height, it greatly affects the stack dimension, so by increasing BB height you're decreasing your stack, unless you increase your head tube length or stem spacer height/bar rise with it. So a lot of companies drop the BB to achieve the size they want, as well as the low CG they want
What bottle cage did you end up using on the Kona Process 134?
lower leg bolts on my new lyrik fork came torqued at around 16nm, even though the manual says to torque them upto 7.3nm. So does it need to be that accurate
I don't use a torque wrench, I just think: how big ist the Bolt (how easy is it to breal the Bolt) and how important is it to not come loose
I might disagree on the dropper post. Yes I am probably the only one but I don't like more than 150/160mm drop. It's enough for me. I only want my saddle out of the way enough and I tend to stabilize the bike during a descend with my thighs and knees from time to time. Currently I have a 125mm dropper and I personally don't see any reason to get more drop. Probably depends on the type of riding you do as well.
The rest I can totally agree with. I don't use a torque wrench tho. I guess everything and so far it works fine
I am 163 cm short (and short legs) and bike frame with interrupted-seat tube is bad news e.g. bent-seat tube, suspension mounting placement that gets in the way (linkage pivot and the rear shock). It means I won't be able to fit a sufficient long travel dropper post I want compared to bike frame that has straight seat tube.
I go through bottom brackets more frequently than grips. I miss the days of serviceable bottom brackets.
I’m thinking that steep STA is getting too steep but maybe that’s just me. Obviously 1 or 2 degrees adjustment is hardly noticeable but 77 or 78 STA seems like it’s much too steep and unnecessary. I think we all have done some steep seated climbs by just scooting up to the nose of our saddle then scooting back once that really steep section is cleared.
I've never had a problem with just-snug pedals. My RF cranks will absolutely loosen if they aren't torqued to 50 N·m though.
Thanks for this JKW !
How about the bane of internal cable routing (without sleeves)
“Looks sleek”my pa-tootie
My pet peeve is how they keep changing the geometry of their bikes, moving them all towards downhill bike geometry, many enduro bikes have basically the same geometry of downhill bikes now, even some trail bikes now basically have the same geometry of downhill bikes too, many cross country bikes are now basically short travel trail bikes, not every one wants a super slack bike, so stop turning them all into one, over the years I've owned bikes that range from 70 degrees to 65 degrees, my preferred bike now is 120 to 130 travel with a 66.5 head angle, I find it a good compromise.
For the loose stem issue if it’s a carbon bar you need to use carbon grip paste, that’s why the torque spec is so low, they probably assume if you’re buying a nice CNC stem you’re running carbon bars in conjunction. If that’s not the issue I’m not sure what is!
Everybody seems to complain about dropper length (i.e. more is always better), but as someone that is of average height (5' 9") and has short legs (30" inseam), I usually can't deal with anything over 150mm. I wish more companies made droppers that are adjustable downwards (like PNW and OneUp) so that it would be easier to spec a bike to fit a wider range of riders.
I barely remember anything JKW said because his precision riding was mesmerising!
I gave up on low BB height and just use 150mm cranks. After rupturing a patellar tendon stuffing my knee into a rock due to one of many pedal strikes I decided shorter cranks are better than 3 years off bikes and skis
Dude! Torque specs are crazy! Just replaced my BB and called the MFG to verify the specs of 50-70! They said the range was due to different BB shells made of different materials. What is the point of that if they are not going to specify the torque for each material? I have taken to the habit of only using torque specs on carbon parts; keeping to the hand/wrist/elbow/shoulder/hips method for everything else. My bike passed all the tests even though I don't put the water bottle on the frame--got tired of chasing it after riding a chunky section 😅
They work great but have gotten insanely complicated. Bought Pike Ultimate and a Grip 2 forks I cant figure out in past few years. Went to the Fit 4 and honestly prefer it more. Dont get me started on the geometry adjustment stuff.
Internally routing, especially for things like hydraulic brake lines, is a true PITA and wasteful of small parts / fluid when you need to swap things around. Guerrilla Gravity has the right idea w/ their approach to this... clean lines by running an external channel along the downtube that has an exterior shield held in place with a few screws, and a snug fit so no rattling.
I'm seeing a few clips with a new Rallon. Is this video live or something still to come?
I finally bought a smaller torque wrench last year after 20 years of riding and wrenching. While I don't use it every time, it at least gives me a reference of what 5 or 10nm "feels" like when I'm too lazy to get it out. So, progress?
"And we're almost to the point of reliable dropper posts" hits home. My fox transfer is sticking again....
My specialized camber 2016 can fit a full 1 liter bottle. Full suspension .
Idk, ive got a Trek Slash and it does everything right. 200mm droper, full sized bottle..everything is perfect
What frame size?
LOL only a kid-size bottle fits on Slash's smaller frame.
9:14 In my opinion all bikes should have uninterrupted seat tubes, nothing blocking it just simple tube, Nicolai does this. I can fit 200mm on my bike. Many bikes have kinked seat tube, a pivot interfering with the insertion depth. the Mondraker is also silly.
The dropper post's...YES! it's even worse when you think about the cost just to upgrade and extra 3 centimetres.
dude you are so good
My Rise came with a 170mm dropper, maybe it is based on frame size, mine is an XL.
Looks like some Oakridge trails :)
It's easy to acquire some cheap and good torque wrenches - no excuses or buying the ridiculously overpriced bike market luxury stuff. Ice Toolz Ocarina covers everything from 0-10Nm (more than 80% of a bike) then Harbor Freight or Princess Auto (Canada's version) for the rest. Bonus - you can use the Harbor Freight ones on the car.
I have never used a torque wrench. It has never been a problem. Also, I'm worried that I will have a hard time finding an aluminum 27.5 bike in the future.
The trends are pretty rough at times.
I also hate that mtb clothing is so expensive $70 to be a billboard for TLD? No thanks. $12 blank athletic jerseys work just as well.
Yeah some of the overpriced pants and shorts are at least nice, but a lot of the jerseys are literally branded athletic t shirts that cost a lot.
Transition scout alloy! Full 27.5, pedals great, devours the steep gnar, rips corners, so playful and boosty for being just under 40lbs. My favorite thing about it is how it loves hucking to flat.
Fits a 210 dropper and fits a full size bottle plus accessory mount under the top tube
My Chris King headset has a torque spec of 1.2 nm, that's not even finger tight and I would have a bunch of play in my headset so I just crank it down, been running great for over a year now lol
I look at torque specs and people who say you NEED to follow them (mainly people sponsored by big brands, huh strange ?) and i sigh loudly for myself. I come from motocross, we never care about that and as you said, want everything to be ''ass tight'', or as tight at the metal allows you too until the tool starts slipping or you risk of breaking the bolt, whichever comes first :P
Do you wire bolt heads like in street racing? I always find "right plus a grunt" is the way, and I own torque wrenches..
I lost 60lbs over 7months do to a nasty Pancreatitis attack. I weigh about 140 now. Although not the preferred weight loss method, I'm having more fun riding now than ever! 2dh bikes and 2 All Mountain bikes. Today im riding them all harder, faster and longer than ever before!
When are you going to review the new ibis
…”gonna soon be logged”
Hit a nerve there. So many good hiking/riding trails got logged this year. Price of wood combined with dry conditions 😢