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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 24 พ.ย. 2024
- When the pull start unit dies, replace it with this. A detailed follow up to an earlier video, where I do the same modification to another cheap Chinese two stroke generator.
The original pull start mechanism is a very weak part on these gutsy little units.
Camera - Nikon L820
After having to pull apart the generator to fix mine, I can't help but feel these generators could do with a flywheel weight to smooth the output a bit. Your vid shows the perfect place to put one.
I made an electric start for mine. Welded a small shaft onto a socket that fits over the crankshaft nut and attached a cordless drill. Presto works like a dream.
Well, the little two stroke genny has gone to another home. The brother in law (farmer) took one look at it, and said that's for me, and off it went to earn it's keep. These things are really ideal as light weight gutsy units to drive drills, angle grinders, lights, and trimmers out in the paddocks. So that's two of these I've converted - now for another one. Cheers Rob
Its funny how people are used to recoil starters and don't know any other. I am 57 yrs young and I remember being a kid and a lot of engine's old mowers etc having wrap around rope start with a big wooden peg or dowel on the end to pull on
I've had a number of these 2-Stroke Chinese generators, and have had very good luck with them. The pull starter breaks when the engine backfires while starting. Here's the real trick: Never start the generator without using the choke, even if it's warm, still choke it. If you do this, they will not backfire and will not break the starter. I've gotten over 2,000 hours on these little units. If you let them sit, shut them down with the fuel shut-off instead of the kill switch. This will burn the fuel from the carburetor bowl and help keep that from lacquering up. If you do this, they will last a very long time, much longer than you ever might have imagined!
Hi Jeff,
I've never had these units backfire. The problem is that the pull start pulley is parallel sided plastic, and the cord spreads it as you pull on it.
It's a bad design that will cause it to crack. If the pulley was metal it would be OK.
These motors are very robust apart from that, and go and go.
The voltage is pretty dirty, as like all two strokes, they hunt unless under load.
Cheers Rob
+xynudu I dunno, I tend to agree with him. Mine was fine for a couple of months,on the pull that broke it my hand was pulled back to the unit hard enough to bruise my knuckles.
Additionally when I tried to start it again it was flooded. This would increase compression because the rings seal better when wet.
Anyway took it back got full credit on a new predator 2000 inverter gen.
best decision ever.
It may have been a fluke for me, but that was my experience. Never start without the choke and shut them down with the fuel shut off instead of the switch. Even if it had run out of fuel and was still hot, I choked it.Otherwise, I got over 2,000 hours on these individually before they would wear out. They are good generators, designed and manufactured for Yamaha.When we first built here in Maine (off grid) all we had for power were generators at first. I would use the 7500Kw for pumping water and the microwave, and the 2-cycle for everything else. I ran these every single day for about 12-16 hours for over a year. No backfires, no broken starter pulleys. I still have two brand new starters in the garage because I had expected them to keep on breaking (I had stocked up, they are only $20 each).Once I put in the big inverter (Xantrex 6048) and battery bank (4 Trojan AGM 8D) all I used was the big generator because I was charging with 45 amps of power. I added solar panels afterward and that was the last I needed the small generators.They did work very well, always started up good, and always ran good. I've had four of these and after learning with the first two, I never broke another starter. To put 2000 hours into perspective, my 6 year old riding mower doesn't have 200 (two hundred) hours on it. My ATV's (2010 & 2005) don't have 200 hours on them yet either.I've had such great luck with these that I would not hesitate to buy another if I needed it. Like I said, I pulled the rope and started these at least a couple times every single day and ran them for the majority of the day for over a year. Once I adapted to starting them, I never had a problem. I highly recommend these little generators. Sure, the little Honda's are a whole lot quieter, but I doubt anyone is getting much more than 2,000 hours on those before they wear out as well.
Reminds me of my fathers old villers engins.he had on all the machines. i remember half of them had a piece of wire you used to earth the sparkplug to turn them off. o how many times i got zapped from them.. Great little mod you done there Rob
one4stevo He He. How many Aussies haven't been zapped by a Villiers :) They made you jump. Rob
Nice work there Rob, making it simpler & better is the way to go.
+ShysterLawyer
I've done two of these in the last couple of years. Bro Inlaw has one, and sold the other.
You can pick them up as non goers for $10 - 20. Easy fix if you have a small lathe. They are actually very simple engines and not much to go wrong.
Good for power tools, but very dirty electricity, so lights flicker and not suitable for PC's etc.
Cheers Rob
I like how you turned the bolt into a nut I could think of some uses for those
Thanks for the idea. I fixed mine in 20 minutes (USA time) using a part off an old honda small generator. Practically bolted right on. Ps, use impact wrench on crank nut. Works perfect.
Thanks for the idea. Wanted to install a pull rope for my Linhai 150cc Farm ATV but it has no place to for a pull start coil. I will be attempting to put your idea to work At the magnito side as it has a bolt there already. and space to pull a rope. Thanks a million!
Thanks for the tip mate, will go to the shed and resurrect my old genny with the same problem.
PGS There must be thousands of these sitting in sheds with the same problem. Easy fix. Cheers Rob
That's great, although now you have a spinning shaft exposed. Good for getting you out of a hole though.
I like your idea but you didn't need the bolt/nut you could of tapped M10 the hole in your pulley
That is a _great_ *work table* that you built.
Hi Bob,
It is built from salvaged wooden cross beams from utilty poles, with a jarrah hardwood work area to take the knocks. I hate steel top work benches as everything just slides around and they are noisy.
Cheers Rob
Reminds me of my childhood when small engines often did not have self winding pull starters. You just can't break this simpler start pulley now can you?
Rob,
Handy trick! I'll have to remember that one.
Happy Holidays!
Dave
Now, that's what my dad used to call "Outback Ingenuity" . . . . . !
I just welded a piece of muffler pipe to those tabs on the flywheel and wrap a rope around that to start mine. I bought a replacement part for it the first time but it broke the first time it kicked back on me so ended up reengineering it. Too bad they don’t make the starter part better in the first place.
The replacement part is as shitty as the original bit. They have a plastic centre which isn't up to the task.
Simple pull rope can't fail.
Hi Rob !
Nice and nifty little fix !
Keld Sørensen Hi Keld. Yes, pretty simple stuff. Have a merry Christmas to you and yours. Cheers Rob.
xynudu Same to you and yours of cause !
You mentioned there is a Yamaha workshop manual available online for the Yamaha version. You wouldn't happen to have a link to one? I can't find it.
+KevCentral
That was some time ago. I don't have the link any more. I remember it was buried away in some site with heaps of other generator manuals.
There is also a parts manual on line as well. Maybe on the Yamaha site, from memory.
Have you found that?
Cheers Rob
+xynudu I have a parts listing and a few sites to get parts. I would really like some form of workshop manual.
+KevCentral
I just had a quick search under " Yamaha ET650 pdf" and quite a lot of listings came up.
I see service manuals shown, but you have to register to download - supposedly free.
Try that.
I never bothered with a service manual as they are a very simple design, using standard gap settings, fuel metering, output setting etc.
Hope this helps.
Cheers Rob
+xynudu
The ET650 and the ET950 are basically the same unit, so search on each of those model numbers and you will get something.
Cheers again.
Rob
+xynudu thanks. I was more concerned with torque settings and such. I'll give this a search.
Nice fix, Rob!
--Bruce.
Mine had this problem as well. I did not like it gave it away to a friend. These two stroke generators to me are just junk, hard to start, carb problems. I eventually found a four stroke generator that was just slightly bigger that starts on first pull every time. Huge upgrade over this junk design,
@Goldstein. I have heard to use an Autolite 65 in place of the original junk spark plugs. Please do your research in case I have the number wrong.
Great, have the same machine, and pulled off the unit and the spring behind it sprung out. As i don't have access to your tools and equipment, got any tricks for rewinding the large spring?
Not really. Those springs are diabolical things. Good luck. Cheers Rob
@@Xynudu yes, just wound it. Some of your video gave me ideas, but never want to do it again!!
I have one as well, need help connecting the electric cables under the fuel tank. Where do they all go to?
+Neema Mungo
The main rotor/generator output wires should have matched connectors/plugs. As these clones are often wired differently to the face panel, you will need to check against a similar layout. Rob
What is the spark plug type and number for the Ginny.?
It's probably an NGK B5ES or BR5ES. I sold that genny way back, but that is what they usually run.
G'day mate. Very good repair. That is really thinking. I bet you can make a nice profit on that one. Thanks for sharing.
My luck I'd lose the damn rope! That's how we started small engines before the 1960s
much easier way is to cut the head of a bolt into a 1/2" square with the grinder so it'll fit into a socket. use the bolt in a drill to turn that crank bolt and start it that way 👍
The nut on the crankshaft allows that option.
Hi rob could you run a portable fridge of one if so what would I have to add to it would a voltage stabilizer be of help cheers tony
I can't answer that for sure. I know these are used by a lot of off the grid people as backup to charge the battery bank and they apparently punch above their weight. Some of the stories about what they supposedly run make you wonder.
I've never tried a fridge off any of the three that I've had. To run a small bar sized freezer I have to use at least a 1 KVA unit, but a portable fridge would require a lot less (depends on the wattage/amps.
These two stroke gennys seem to have a rated output between 650 and 750 watts with a peak of about 900 watts, so work on those figures. Startup load is the decider as if the genny can't supply enough at peak then nothing is going to happen.
Unfortunately fridges don't usually quote a startup wattage as it's only a momentary load on the mains supply (which can easily handle it). Generally you only get run load.
Even though the output on these gennys is pretty dirty/fluctuates due to two stroke hunting, they will run any AC induction motor quite happily and steadily. So a fridge should be fine.
The only time variation matters is with light flicker (including fluros). I also wouldn't use one with any sensitive electronics like PC or TV (even though they have rudimentary filtering in the power supply).
I hope this helps.
Cheers Rob
Love your stuff!
Adam Burke Thanks.
Could you have just directly tapped the end of the pulley instead of making the specialized nut?
Either way, nice fix.
I just thought about it but I guess the issue would be you wouldn't have anything to hold to tighten it down if you didn't use the bolt.
Stephen Thomson
You could tap directy into the end of the pulley, and drill through the pulley sides to put a bar through for tightening. I considered this, but went with a separate tube nut. I didn't like the idea of putting a spring washer directly between the pulley and the end of the crankshaft as this would reduce thread length and could mean the pulley did not not tighten up square. It also puts more load on the crank end as the mating faces are much smaller that way. If you just used Loctite on the thread then I think it would work pretty well, with good face contact. It's certainly a workable way to do it and is simpler. Next one I fix I will try it (with Loctite), and if no good I can easily dril out the end and fit a tube nut. Thanks for the comment. Cheers Rob
xynudu Ah yes. I didn't consider the lock nut either.
Good thinking.
A strap wrench might tighten the nut down sufficiently. The natural tendency when starting the engine would tighten the nut as you pull started it. Clockwise to tighten the nut, clockwise to start the engine. That is why some nuts are left-handed, to counter act the tendency for them to loosen during operation.
Nice one Rob, $10, can't be bad....
Steve McQuillin Virtually brand new. Runs great. I put my 700 watt drill on it as a load to measure the voltage drop, and it was no problem - still put out full 240 AC. Very quiet too. Cheap and cheerful :) Rob
I got one given to me I have no spark tested the coil that was all good any suggestions as to fix my problem cheers
If it's a GMC brand it's probably the ignition module is dead. They die very readily.
You can buy replacement modules/packs off of Ebay for not a lot of cash.
Disconnect the kill switch lead to make sure the switch is not bad, and of course use another spark plug that's known to be good.
These gennys are generic and parts are interchangeable between brands. They are all just a copy of a Yamaha.
Cheers Rob
buy a none china spark plug
Hey Rob. Great work you do. Wonder if you could assist me, i bought one of these cheapies today for $15. It wont start. apparently it has been standing for quite some time. I dumped some fuel down the spark plug cyclinder and it fired up. I tried cleaning the carby but still no go. any ideas and advice will be greatly appreciated! Thanx
Rodney Mathee Hi Rodney. That's a pretty cheap generator. These babies are pretty simple really.If it fired then it means it has spark, so the problem is fuel.In the carb bowl base is a drain tap. Unscrew that and make sure fuel is flowing through the system. There is a filter in the tap assembly that can block. If fuel flows out of the bowl then that is ruled out.So it comes down to the float level is too low, or most likely the main jet is blocked or the idle jet is blocked / incorrectly set. Blow the jets out with air and try to start it. It might be worth taking off the pull start and spinning over the motor with an electric drill while you play around with the idle jet (which also affects the main jet). It should fire up if it has fuel and the jets are clean. Let me know how you get on. Cheers Rob.
Rodney Mathee When you try to start it, make sure the choke is on, screw the idle jet out 1.5 turns, and it should fire. Turn off the choke once it's running and adjust the idle jet until the motor smooths out. Good luck. Rob
Hi Rob. It's getting fuel to the bowl. That's all good. I let it soak for a couple days in petrol and then blew everything out including the jets. I tried just then and it still won't go. I sprayed some carb cleaner into the carb and it fired up for a few seconds then died. Thanx
Rodney Mathee OK do this. Make sure spark plug is dry, then pull motor over a half dozen times (with it in), check plug again to see if wet. If dry it means the float bowl level is too low, If wet it means plug is probably faulty. The original Chinese spark plug is known to be poor quality. Also check the bolts holding the reed valve and carby are tight as it could cause an air leak at those points. Rob
Rodney Mathee I recommend you spin over the motor with an electric drill while you screw the idle jet in and out to get it to fire. Also make sure the carby butterfly is open at the start position, and leave the air cleaner out for now. Once you get it going you can fine tune it and set the voltage etc. Rob
Well done
Hi friend I have one but stop no spark to plug any ideas
The CDI ignition module can fail on these. You can buy a new one from Ebay cheap (generic). Check the on/off switch is working by disconnecting the grounding wire from the motor.
xynudu thanks friend
is that an australian wall plug? Damn america is alot different. so is that generator compared to my brand new 1
+Vincent Sluga
Yes, that's where Aussies stick their power cord :)
Rob
i mean damn... usa is dumb exept for European/standard measurment. Metric sucks
Get an old Piston of suitable size, then drill the holes and fit it :)
Seems easier to me to buy the proper pull start.
Yes and after a few starts u have the same problem again . I use my cordless drill with a 9/16 socket to start mine .
If you're fortunate enough to find one. I have lots of trouble finding parts for low cost Chinese products. It's almost cheaper to toss it and buy a new one. Emphasize almost. Ebay has one for this generator $28.63 + $10 shipping. Compare that to the cost of a new generator from HF at $110.
OMG the proper way to stop that crankshaft from turning IS NOT blocking up the piston with a rope. By blocking the piston, you have a good chance to bend the rod and damage the bearings when tightening/loosening that nut.
Umm No because they make piston stop tools that do the same thing. They screw down into where the plug is stopping the piston from moving. That was his point if you listened to him. Why buy a piston stop tool when a rope can do the same thing.
Piston stop tools are NOT used to keep the crankshaft from turning. They are used to locate TDC of the piston travel.
Piston stops are made for both purposes. Look up chainsaw piston stop and you might learn something.
I still wouldn't use anything like a bolt (that's what it is) to stop the crankshaft from rotating. He does point out that the spark plug hole has to be vertical to the piston,not angled as it is on some engines.
If you care to check you will learn that Stihl and other manufacturers make and sell piston stops as OEM equipment. I expect they use them in their service departments as well.
I'm sure they know better than most what is right and what isn't for their engines.
Cheers Rob
But... why.
Why not just remove the pull cord, drill a smaller hole in the center of the cover, and use a socket on a drill to turn the engine over.
Bam
How are you going to power the drill without electricity ? LOL. That's why the generator is there.
@@Xynudu cordless.... and use the generator to charge the batteries once it's on.
i know its old.....you just need to use a longer reach plug..............duh
Sounds like BS to me. Normally you can put a long reach spark plug in a short reach head and it won't touch the piston crown. That's how people stuff up motors and have to pull the head off to de-coke the exposed thread to get the longer spark plugs out. So your "old" idea isn't going to work on any engines I've seen any time soon. LOL.
I used a 2inch pvc pipe much safer.no welding
I rewound the recoil today! DON'T DO IT LOL. WHAT A NIGHTMARE.! I got it in the end but the plastic doesnt have long. Was wondering if you could start these with a drill?
Yes, provided it is powerful enough.