As for the windshield, I would definitely get rid of the rubber. All those little details really add up and make an impression. I flush mounted the glass in my '65 Impala and it made a HUGE difference in the appearance. Another video idea I would like to see from you is how you keep so organized and motivated. Not the "neatness" kind of organized, but how you plan everything out and keep things rolling smoothly.
@@jackdeniston9326 If you are asking me....no there was no noise change. The glass is still installed in the same way, it's just raised up with metal stock welded in the channel, and the trim is not installed afterwards.
Rear hatch hinges : look into the design of the SOSS invisible hinges. It is a double jointed hinge that fits in a pocket. You do not see the hinge. There are used for hidden doors in houses. It also lifts the door away from the jamb. Look into it. Would be an interesting touch.
With regard to your windscreen - remember that you're going to look at it every time you walk up to the car. And that rubber seal is going to scream 'this is not a supercar !' Apart from that - congratulations on having the cahones for even starting this project. Absolutely amazing !
I would love to just see a sit down video with you kind of laying out a resume of sorts. Describing how you acquired all of your skill sets, and what was mentored off of the people that came into you life - what you figured out on your own and types of jobs and education you have had. You sir, are brilliant.
I am completely blown away by your project. The passion you have and share is truly incredible. Please continue with the great work. Best build series I’ve seen, and trust me, I’ve viewed a lot. Thank you for taking the time to allow all of us to be a part of your journey,
The idea of a carbon inlay around the whole windshield to take up the room of the rubber, may be appealing also may be very strong. Thankyou for your videos!
I'm a Mechanical Engineering student, and I really want to say you have definitely gotten me inspired with your videos, I've always wanted to take on a big project like this (not necessarily a car, but maybe ;)) and it's really awesome seeing your progress on this channel. So thanks! Greeting from Puerto Rico.
Visited Puerto Rico in February, had a great time. Welcome to the channel. I hope you find a good (and difficult) project. Even if it's not a car, keep us informed; we would love to see what you cook up!
@@nick9463 I'd like to see you do better. Just the effort and time being put into a project like this is impressive. Unhappy minds are easily unimpressed.
I've watch all the episodes now and the first I want to say is ... you're a true genius! You have inspired me to build my own sportscar and I believe that I'm not the only one. Keep doing what you're doing and I'm sure that that your channel will skyrocket! Greetings from Sweden.
As for the windshield area I'd leave it for now. Resist the idea of going back and striving for perfection. Keep moving forward, you're doing great! After you're road worthy you can come back and tweak some areas.
I'm far from a perfectionist, but it looks like I will be going back, cutting off the rubber trim and adjusting the windshield frame - till then, as you said, onward and forward - lots of other stuff to do!
I think the problem with windscreens, in all self build cars, is trying to make it look OEM, or factory. Windscreen, glass and headlight seals are almost impossible to get right on a budget and through DIY; the finish never looks right. Even TVR couldn't quite get it right. So if you opt to remove the factory seal, you may lose the factory look, and possibly run the risk of making the windscreen install look amateurish, which would be a shame as the rest of the car certainly doesn't look amateurish at all. If you think you can do your own "OEM" seals, then my hat comes off to you for trying. I'd be interested in the results. :)
Absolutely!!! make many videos showing the process and snags throughout! As a Mechanic/ operating Engineer, I see many videos where they start the process, show the middle and the end. So it seems misleading to someone who knows the process and feels bad for the novice who wants to DIY for themselves and get stuck halfway through. I like to see how different people do their projects to see the different ways there done. Been on a fiberglass kick for a bit ,seen 100 videos but I've never seen the Honeycomb matt you used before! That's why I watch many videos on a single subject! Thank you Sir! I'm going to continue your series without skipping ahead!!!
Firstly, the car looks gorgeous, love the look, but there is three parts I'd do diffrent. 1. The front bumper will cause lift at high speeds, 2. The buttressed rear window will cause drag, 3. The rear bumper/rear lights area will cause drag too. But having said that I still love the look, it's fantastic, and the work involved was huge. Great job👍
Hey there, amazing progress you've made. One thing about the windshield, I work with glass. The windshield is made of laminated glass with a PVB plastic foil in between, that foil will become white if the edges of the glass are left in moist conditions. So if you take it out make sure to still project the edges of the glas.. Again, amazingly inspiring to see. Keep on going man.
THANKS! Now that is a very useful piece of information. I will take that into consideration as the glass will have been stripped of any protection. Glad to have others experience! Welcome to the new world of social media.
@@williamgoode9114 Fiberglassing will only be to form the new frame edge. Once the new edge is done the glass will be installed the traditional way with flexible rubber sealant.
I think if the rubber is left on the windshield it will cause unneeded attention to it. I believe that it will cause your eyes to keep looking at it because something doesn’t seem right and is out of place, opposed to a flush mounted windshield that becomes transparent with the flow of the vehicle itself. It will probably almost look “rigged up” in a polite manner, if left on. With all of the time and effort being put in to the vehicle it definitely deserves the extra effort and time to fill the gap and flush mount it. It is coming along very well and I enjoy your updates. Keep up the great work!!!
Wow ! What a project. You have so much talents. When some people are dreaming and do nothing. You realize your awesome car ! I wait to see it on the wheels ! (Mik from France)
Not enough thumbs up could be given. Thank you for showing all you have on the Arete build, and taking the time to look back mid way and look back in hindsight for changes.
I am currently toying with a moldless construction on a Morgan Plus8 /MG-TD type tub. It's a simple form, quickly built up and reinforcements can be incorporated into the foam core and the simple flat surfaces are perfect for this.
Perfect for those not wanting or able to commit to creating molds. Make sure you put up some pictures on Instagram and connect over there. Always interested in others projects.
In theory, if you were to throw the idea of a conveniently shaped rear sub-frame out the window and just placed all of the drivetrain components where you wanted them and moved forward from there to support them adequately, you could totally fit basically anything you wanted to into the back of that car. It's surprisingly spacious, after all. This would, however, make servicing those components more challenging because you end up packing the support structure pretty tightly to the engine, exhaust, and intake components. It also doesn't usually end up nearly so pretty, at least not without some significant efforts in fabrication. Take the custom twin-turbo exhaust systems that people have made for the Audi R8, for example. It's a car with a ludicrously tight amount of space for an exhaust system, but some people have decided to use 10 and 15 degree pie cut pre-bent tubing to craft incredibly complex and surprisingly large bore exhaust systems for it (though they do frequently run without a muffler, so there's that). Then look at Project Binky, from Bad Obsession Motorsports, where they took an Austin Mini and crammed the entire running gear, drivetrain, and engine from a turbocharged 2.0L AWD Toyota Celica into it. The amount of work put into fitting a drivetrain into a space where it clearly doesn't fit is mind-boggling, but it can be done. The downside is that you end up with an engine bay so tight that ceramic coating and woven rockwool insulation aren't done for aesthetic purposes but out of necessity to keep the exhaust from literally melting the parts nearby them. Basically, if you poured a cup of water onto the warm engine bay, it would never reach the ground. In this case, if you were to employ a larger alternator and a more substantial battery, you could place things like the intercooler wherever you liked by utilizing electric fans to cool it. You could even go so far as to make the up-draft aero hood even more substantial, diving almost through to the floor of the front chamber, and then stack a radiator for engine coolant, a radiator for a water to air intercooler, a heat exchanger for AC, and even an oil cooler up front, backed by a custom fan shroud to pull air through all of them and up out of the hood. And you'd still have space in the front for a battery or two, fluid tanks, and the front differential. It just gets tight and you'd probably have to rework some of the suspension geometry for the shock actuator levers, but moving them back doesn't necessarily change how they function as long as they still pivot properly and you have a mount in a suitable location on the upper control arm. I would also probably opt for an electric hydraulic pump for hydraulic steering assist, as it is between a common hydraulic steering assistance and electric steering assistance in terms of feel, but allows you to remote mount the pump wherever is suitable, since the fluid is incompressible and the length of the hose is somewhat irrelevant. Another option if you ever decide to redesign the sub-frames is to utilize even longer control arms and narrow the subframe even more between the front wheels to allow you to use a closer steering ratio with longer pivot arms, allowing you even more steering angle on each side without scrubbing the wheels on the tubbed arches or suspension components, which would allow you to make more aggressive steering corrections while driving, or even open up the options for drifting, as long as the rear bias of the central differential allows for it. One option if you want a more rear-biased AWD system and you're willing to buy expensive salvage parts is to find an AWD Lamborghini and use its transmission and differentials for this, as it would be closer to a plug-and-play solution in terms of front to rear biasing, as it was already designed for a mid-engine AWD configuration. Porsche also made use of similar transmissions for their AWD 911 variants, so that's another possible option if the current solution doesn't provide the bias that you want. The fact that you're able to build your own adapter plates and junction tubes is already to your benefit when it comes to adapting drivetrains to your needs. The Audi R8 is another option, too. The only complication to all three of these related options is dealing with whatever transmission and diff control signals the VW-Audi group use to manage them.
Another vote for removing the rubber from the windshield. I think not only the initial aesthetics will be improved, but the rubber will deteriorate and look rough over time. I think you made the right decision regarding the door/side window. I think the time you spend making a nice side window would be less than trying to make that irregularly shaped door work. Amazing work in any case and it's actually a privilege to give my opinion on a project like this.
As for the little quarter window, I would include it in the door, but not as a little pointy bit. Instead, cut the aft edge of the roof/door parting line back to the point of the window. This will make the door look better as it is a but narrow in the roofline area and really wide in the side. Adding a bit more roof to the door will make it look more balanced, AND you will be able to incorporate the quarter window in as one piece.
I just came across this today, it is very impressive. I'm not any kind of engineer (except for operating a light rail car), but I do have years of having fun with VWs. I'm working on my own car, using a sand rail chassis, going mid-engined with a 6 cylinder Corvair engine mated to a Porsche 914 transaxle, and topped with a Laser 917 body, to make my version of a Porsche 917 replica. Like you said, as I don't have much experience I can still get close to what I want with pre-made components. Nowhere near to the supercar you're making, but it is what I feel I'm able to do. Great series of videos!
Leave the rubber seal mount, till you know how much flex there will be.(Where are the door hinges located ?). You don't wont to end up like some Mclarens, cracking screens, because the glass became a stressed panel. Sort that with V2. Great work, the AWD makes the front end extra tricky. Fun times !!
With all the afford and time in this project I would personally remove the windowrubber for sure, the project is allready so clean! Dont bail out on those pieces! I keep following your project! Do awesome craftmenwork... all the complexity in the project and all the work.. you are really a awesome person!!! Keep on going this great work!!
Looks like the consensus is to cut it off. (rubber trim) I know it will look better, just needed a little shove to push me to do it. I guess I will have a video coming- "window frame modification!"
Front and rear door pillars, like where are they. And theres a reason that the door seals are so big. Its because the load from the front of the car, is transmited through them to the rear of the car, and the rest of the body is conected to that. Ok you did say that your making the tunnel apart of that. This should be the sub frame that conects the front suspension sub frame the the engine sub frame. Just like the lotus esprit has. But please remember the body has a sub frame aswell. Otherwise your car will have no structure to it and will be dangerous. Remove the seal around the windshield. Its used to seal the windshield after its bonded to the windshield frame.
Definitely worth the effort to remove the rubber from around the windshield. You've put an incredible amount of work into this car to let something like that remain. It looks very cheap and makes it look like a kit car as opposed to a bespoke, custom work of art.
I say nix the rubber seal on the windshield, it'll have a much cleaner look. Your foot-well doesn't look any narrower than a Countach, roominess is nice to have, but usually one of the trade-offs with exotic cars. If luck is on your side you'll have a little extra clearance in the tunnel area you can take advantage of at the front for some extra pedal room. Loving the build so far.
Yes, get rid of the rubber seal around the windshield. You will be happier after you get it done and the result will be a lot cleaner. Utilize technology available to improve your project. You will most likely need to add front and rear fender vents to alleviate the air pressure in wheel wells at high speed that can cause the car to lift when you are going for 200mph.
Trim off the moulding around the windshield. Unless you bring the lip on the roof, A-pillars, and valance up so the windshield isn't in such a deep recess. If the windshield sat higher then you could leave the moulding on to hide the windshield glue and help fill in that 1/4" gap that you need around the windshield to allow for body flex and binding against the glass.
I was able to get a C4 without engine or transmission for cheap. My engine is a Ford Mustang V8 (I'm modifying it heavily). I'm liking the FDF Raceshop suspension parts which will save design and fabrication time but give great adjustability. I will go fixed seat (similar to your design), moving foot controls, and redesigned (more modern) body. Speeduino controller for the engine, transaxle, and dash.
I would leave the rubber trim on the screen, if you're bonding the screen into place then the rubber trim will hide the bonding adhesive. The Lotus Elise/Exige has a rubber trim around the screen for this reason.
Windshield - You may be able to find a aluminum 'H' extrusion for glass that could be used to fill the gap up to the body surface. The aluminum is usually anodized which is easily removed. The extrusion can then be annealed to bend easier. The top corner ends can be welded and finished to contour the recess. The bottom section and corners can be bonded after the glass is fitted and bonded on the top and sides. The whole unit then bonded to the body using the industry standard black adhesive. The extrusion can be painted body color there will only be a narrow gap to fill with the black adhesive. The Ferrari Boxer, and others I assume, have this method of installation. It is very flush and looks great.
The windscreen rubber seal, in my opinion, doesn’t really make too much of a difference to the aesthetics. Obviously, the modern trend is a fully bonded screen, but would this involve a redesign of the entire screen recess and the filling and finishing of the roofline.? Ultimately, the choice is a slavish adherence to modernity or more practicality. The glass may not be suitably edged for bonding and at least the seal gives a high degree of flexibility. I personally would keep the seal. Great project, and hats off to your attention to detail and build quality. Which ever way you decide will be the best way for you, so ultimately the correct way for the project. Thanks fo a very interesting series.
thank you for sharing your unique talents. As for the windshield, definitely loose the rubber molding. The form and design screams for "smooth" window to body transitions.
As I had to leave my garage, before the end of the realization of the master/plug ... I used the method that you described ... And at the time, I did not know the existence of a fiberglass fabric like 50g ... I took 200 ... I quickly made the surface of my plug before the forced relocation and having to break it.. A year later ... I took this plug again ... Piece by piece. For example, I didn't reinforce the wing with a wooden structure ... I just removed 20cm2 of foam, fiberize that part from the inside, and then remove another 20cm2, and so on. Since I no longer had a garage, I did this in my apartment, each part after the other ... Did I mention that the master had been cut into 40 pieces to fit in 2m3 room storage for a year ...? It's hard to rebuild a broken egg ... :) Never give up on a project. Just try to finish it later.
Its wise to use a stock windshield as it can easily get cracked by a rock or something else. makes replacement easy and affordable. As far as the rubber trim, I would consider what people have tried it have to say the most. Such as David Guyton. Aesthetics is important. My inclination would be to remove it for aesthetic and aero reasons. After all the work you have already put into it, you might as well go that extra mile.
Flush mount the windshield brotha, that rubber gasket is going to just detract from the overall awesome appearance. Keep up the good work though, I'm digging the videos. Thanks for sharing!
Hi, nice job! i would not use a rubber seal because they damage over time. your best option with out would look better too! The countach used a metal strip thats another way. Keep up the good work!!
Consult a few different auto glass shops about windshield options. Ive found that in my 10yr auto glass career, even the most knowledgeable mechanics have no clue about windshield procedures. Auto glass is a specialty trade that is only taught to people that are IN the auto glass business. There are no classes you can go take for it. So a lot of people are just misinformed, and spread misinformation about the subject. As for your question....... Leave it on if you want to get away with not having to make the edges of the frame perfect. And i mean PERFECT! Take it off if you dont care about how much time and energy you are going to spend making the edge of the frame look perfect. And i...... mean...... PERFECT!!! Also, if you decide to remove the rubber trim from the glass, just look into a glass that doesnt come with a rubber trim on it. That would be easier than having to buy that same windshield and cutting off the trim again risking glass damage.
You are probably aware, but beyond looks, there are 3 functional reasons, small details that matter, why modern cars have a smooth transition, getting rid of the rubber around the windshield: 1. To help reduce drag coeficient by contributing to more fluid surfaces, which improves fuel economy, range and performance overall. Considering the ever stricter governmental and international regulations on emissions and efficiency, every small detail counts and helps. 2. Over time, that rubber tends to fail, crack, flake, warp from thermal cycles and UV exposure, creating humidity or actual leaks, which causes rust etc etc. 3. Manufacturing time is cut down a bit by the fact that instead of having additional steps to fit the rubber seal around the windshield and then fit them both in place, an adhesive bead is laid by a robotic arm and immediately after the windshield is just dropped and layed into place while the vehicle moves on to the next station of assembly as the adhesive cures. So in short: Yes, it makes a lot of sense to get rid of the rubber seal, in the context of modern cars and reasons mentioned above.
the windshield rubber is not just a seal, it allows the window to flex. if you bond the window to the frame it will probably crack at the first hard bump. the only other alternative is to heat bend some polycarbonate around the windshield and go with a lexan windshield.
With regards to the footwell, have you considered mounting the organic component (ie. the driver) in the middle of the vehicle? That would give you the space you need for feet & pedals, and you could use two small-ish seats behind the driver at either side like McLaren did with the F1. Apart from getting another seat in, it means the driver (the most important component) has more room & can concentrate better on the actual driving.
Excepting there is a transmission and center differential in a tunnel there. I have fixed the foot room problem however. see this video- th-cam.com/video/WIC5shmAZdQ/w-d-xo.html
Absolutely love it, I wish there would've been a way to get this kind of access and insight 15 years ago... I would've probably made some different choices in life. Amazing work and I really appreciate you putting together this very informative video. Really, great work and all the best to you ;)
hi...most builders are using a "uni-body", complete, floor pan to simplify their body build/mods. many channels already show that approach; and it's a great time saver, since steering and suspension are already figured out. (much easier to modify steering and suspension than invent it!). great job overall...i have been doing this off and on for 50 years...would've suggested you tapped into existing knowledge/experience a little more at the start. Good Job! walt.
Thanks Walt. I never wanted this project to be easier. My only regret (okay, their are probably many.) is that I didn't incorporate the suspension pick up points in the monocoque. When I started I didn't have the knowledge (and a few tool ) that I now have.
Ya I would cut the rubber off around the window, but maybe after the build is done. I think driving it first is more important. I’m sure after driving it, there would be other things you would have to change anyway
Since you're building this from the bottom up I would go ahead and remove the molding on the windshield. It's one of those things that will not only look better but if you didn't do it, it would bother you every time you saw it!
Hiya. Really interesting project. Found the channel a couple of days ago and I've watched a couple of the videos now and it looks like you are making good progress. I have a similar project in the pipeline at the moment. I'm planning to do a build series on my channel as well if you are interested. Regarding the windscreen seal; Yes remove it. You have done all that work it would be a shame to spoil the ascetic with a bit of ugly 90's technology. You will get a much sharper finish and you can match the gap and flush with the other fits around the vehicle. I think you will be glad you did, once you have. All the best of luck, I admire your dedication and appreciate the amount of effort it has taken you to get this far. 👍
Those hinges you may want to look into the front hood hinges on a Porsche 550 Spyder, then look at how the 550 Replicate solutions were. Also the Datsun Z range of cars from 69-78 the rear hatch hinges have , the same body line challenges as you have. You may find a solution. Face Book groups is your Friend. You wind shield to get the upgrade look you need to, urethane it in. But I would make the up grade easier on my self . I would use "plastilen Clay" So drying time is not an issue Then use cloth over the plastilen make a windshield mold. Then pull a part out bonding it to your existing frame ,trim and body fill the seam edges.
The change has already been completed. Yo can see the process I used here - th-cam.com/video/QucvCSwLaHgj/w-d-xo.htmlaz Thanks for your comment/suggestions.
Flush mount / erase rubber trim windshield, certian things really date cars, headlights, trim, plastic, and window rubber- the flush mount will make it current looking. Also wear a respirator please n protect health ur a genius
Wow. I didn’t see that coming. a Cavalier would’ve been 169th on the list of any, “guess what model windshield I used was,” type question. do whatever makes you happy, Hombre...don’t ask us Mass Pro Auto Owners. keep killing, Dude.
Thanks for taken the time and sharing your insight. I’m currently in the body design phase of my own super car project. Also in my option you should ditch the seal.
Hey! I've come across your videos before of your 5 axis build and in a turn of synchronicity, tomorrows video talks about my recent acquisition of an X-Y table to build one. Also, taking a look at your "Split decision" Project, I'm going to add a mention in my said, next video, to send people your way to see how you've used an existing car "cabin" to solve a lot of work. very apropos to the content of this video.
@@BuilderCreator Thanks, I will be happy to return the favor. I really wish I knew how to design a monocoque tub. Maybe for my next project I can try and make one.
I think it would look better without the rubber trim on the windshield. Could you make some sort of fiberglass frame that would cover the perimeter of the glass and would blend it into the body? That might be more work than filling and sanding though.
Building cars round people in driving position would make sense. That way can see out windows from side, front, back. Had an mx5 mk1 and had to roll out of it. 😀
Another excellent video, thanks from London England 👍 Ps. Personally for the amount of effort you've put in I'd definitely go Flush for the window! Also the rear hatch it sounds a bit mad but I immediately thought of double glazed windows as they have some unique hinges for openers especially top openers which you could adapt the concept/re-engineer something from that field for the Supercar Build, might save having to invent a new hinge system just adapt an existing one of you come across something that will create the clearance for the rear hatch.. just a thought, I know it sounds a bit mad so just ignore me if that sounds a bit too wacky. Best regards from London England 👍
The window is now flush; you can catch a video of the job here - th-cam.com/video/WIC5shmAZdQ/w-d-xo.html I have also come to a solution to the hinge and will , of course, let everyone see that in a future video. Thanks for watching.
Have you looked at diy angle kits for drift cars? You can reduce your turning radius by moving the tie rod pick-up point towards the axis of rotation of the knuckle. Also I think you should remove the windshield moulding.
Problem with angle kits is that they screw up the ackerman, and as a result drivebility for anything other than drift is shit. Also, that wouldn't exactly solve his problem which is inner side of wheel hitting the front subframe if I'm not mistaken.
The rubber seal around the windshield has been removed. See the updated look here- th-cam.com/video/WIC5shmAZdQ/w-d-xo.html
Phew. That rubber would have really dated the car and made it look like a kit car. Good job...
Leave it works like a gutter
As for the windshield, I would definitely get rid of the rubber. All those little details really add up and make an impression. I flush mounted the glass in my '65 Impala and it made a HUGE difference in the appearance. Another video idea I would like to see from you is how you keep so organized and motivated. Not the "neatness" kind of organized, but how you plan everything out and keep things rolling smoothly.
One more vote for the rubber seal removal! I'll put the organization video on my list of future vids.
Did you notice wind noise change?
David Guyton
I would love to se that Impala, i have i -65 Impala myself and i also want to flush mount!
@@jackdeniston9326 If you are asking me....no there was no noise change. The glass is still installed in the same way, it's just raised up with metal stock welded in the channel, and the trim is not installed afterwards.
@@Cheva-Pate I wish I still owned the car. There are a couple of videos of it on my channel if you wanna check it out.
Flush mount windshield for sure, it will look so clean flush mounted.
Flush mount windshield!!!!
Rear hatch hinges : look into the design of the SOSS invisible hinges.
It is a double jointed hinge that fits in a pocket.
You do not see the hinge.
There are used for hidden doors in houses.
It also lifts the door away from the jamb.
Look into it.
Would be an interesting touch.
@@2009mechanic Yes, I was going to suggest dual-pin hinges to solve the problem. Once it is closed, it clicks into place flat.
Happy that TH-cam is promoting this channel and that it got recommended to me. Quality content. Will definitely get more popular in the coming days!
also get rid of the rubber, it would look more clean!
That is going to be a very gorgeous super car.
I am studying mechanical engineering, I want you to know that you are my inspiration, greetings from Mexico
With regard to your windscreen - remember that you're going to look at it every time you walk up to the car. And that rubber seal is going to scream 'this is not a supercar !' Apart from that - congratulations on having the cahones for even starting this project. Absolutely amazing !
Absolutely incredible work. Totally blown away watching you designing and building everything yourself. Flush mounted glass wins the vote I see.
I would love to just see a sit down video with you kind of laying out a resume of sorts. Describing how you acquired all of your skill sets, and what was mentored off of the people that came into you life - what you figured out on your own and types of jobs and education you have had. You sir, are brilliant.
I am completely blown away by your project. The passion you have and share is truly incredible. Please continue with the great work. Best build series I’ve seen, and trust me, I’ve viewed a lot. Thank you for taking the time to allow all of us to be a part of your journey,
Thanks for watching. Viewers like you, with all the kind words, make the extra work of documenting the build on video worth the effort!
get rid of the rubber, the car will look old otherwise.
You've invested so much into this beautiful car already, definitely the windshield would look so clean and striking without the rubber.
Cut away the rubber around the windscreen please! It will make a massive difference. Absolute outstanding work. You are a special human.
The idea of a carbon inlay around the whole windshield to take up the room of the rubber, may be appealing also may be very strong. Thankyou for your videos!
I'm a Mechanical Engineering student, and I really want to say you have definitely gotten me inspired with your videos, I've always wanted to take on a big project like this (not necessarily a car, but maybe ;)) and it's really awesome seeing your progress on this channel. So thanks! Greeting from Puerto Rico.
Visited Puerto Rico in February, had a great time. Welcome to the channel. I hope you find a good (and difficult) project. Even if it's not a car, keep us informed; we would love to see what you cook up!
Simple minds are easily impressed.
@@nick9463 I'd like to see you do better. Just the effort and time being put into a project like this is impressive. Unhappy minds are easily unimpressed.
Every vehicle is a romantic version of problem solving and aesthetic evolution.Can't wait until interior trim etc.
@@rogerramjet8964 I have two whole cow hides in a fine warm orange waiting!!
I've watch all the episodes now and the first I want to say is ... you're a true genius! You have inspired me to build my own sportscar and I believe that I'm not the only one. Keep doing what you're doing and I'm sure that that your channel will skyrocket! Greetings from Sweden.
Välkommen! Great ! Maybe you can give that Christian Koenigsegg a run for his money!
Can i just say, I've seen a lot of fiberglass builds. This is the smoothest straight out of the mold body i have every seen! It looks fantastic
What an artist you are Sir , RESPECT!
For your hinges for the back section, look at the recessed hinges for cabinet doors for some inspiration.
bit. Really like how simple you actually make it seem. Really inspiring. Great work! I appreciate your dedication! Great looking car also!
This guy is so underrated...should have a lot more subscribers..
As for the windshield area I'd leave it for now. Resist the idea of going back and striving for perfection. Keep moving forward, you're doing great! After you're road worthy you can come back and tweak some areas.
I'm far from a perfectionist, but it looks like I will be going back, cutting off the rubber trim and adjusting the windshield frame - till then, as you said, onward and forward - lots of other stuff to do!
After 100 years it will be a piece of art
I think the problem with windscreens, in all self build cars, is trying to make it look OEM, or factory. Windscreen, glass and headlight seals are almost impossible to get right on a budget and through DIY; the finish never looks right. Even TVR couldn't quite get it right. So if you opt to remove the factory seal, you may lose the factory look, and possibly run the risk of making the windscreen install look amateurish, which would be a shame as the rest of the car certainly doesn't look amateurish at all. If you think you can do your own "OEM" seals, then my hat comes off to you for trying. I'd be interested in the results. :)
This guy is the Bob Ross of supercar building! I could watch these videos for hours! Haha
Keep up the good work!
Absolutely!!!
make many videos showing the process and snags throughout!
As a Mechanic/ operating Engineer,
I see many videos where they start the process, show the middle and the end.
So it seems misleading to someone who knows the process and feels bad for the novice who wants to DIY for themselves and get stuck halfway through.
I like to see how different people do their projects to see the different ways there done.
Been on a fiberglass kick for a bit ,seen 100 videos but I've never seen the Honeycomb matt you used before!
That's why I watch many videos on a single subject!
Thank you Sir!
I'm going to continue your series without skipping ahead!!!
Firstly, the car looks gorgeous, love the look, but there is three parts I'd do diffrent. 1. The front bumper will cause lift at high speeds, 2. The buttressed rear window will cause drag, 3. The rear bumper/rear lights area will cause drag too. But having said that I still love the look, it's fantastic, and the work involved was huge. Great job👍
I'll give you the buttressed rear window, but you will have to wait and see what becomes of the front and rear.
@@BuilderCreator can't wait, I'd still have it as is 👍
Hey there, amazing progress you've made. One thing about the windshield, I work with glass. The windshield is made of laminated glass with a PVB plastic foil in between, that foil will become white if the edges of the glass are left in moist conditions. So if you take it out make sure to still project the edges of the glas..
Again, amazingly inspiring to see. Keep on going man.
THANKS! Now that is a very useful piece of information. I will take that into consideration as the glass will have been stripped of any protection. Glad to have others experience! Welcome to the new world of social media.
Djessey
Is there not a physicality to rubber mounting glass, especially in this flexy body
Also glass replacement , have you thought of that, say it gets a stone chip and you've just fiberglassed it in place
@@williamgoode9114 Fiberglassing will only be to form the new frame edge. Once the new edge is done the glass will be installed the traditional way with flexible rubber sealant.
I think if the rubber is left on the windshield it will cause unneeded attention to it. I believe that it will cause your eyes to keep looking at it because something doesn’t seem right and is out of place, opposed to a flush mounted windshield that becomes transparent with the flow of the vehicle itself. It will probably almost look “rigged up” in a polite manner, if left on. With all of the time and effort being put in to the vehicle it definitely deserves the extra effort and time to fill the gap and flush mount it. It is coming along very well and I enjoy your updates. Keep up the great work!!!
Wow ! What a project. You have so much talents. When some people are dreaming and do nothing. You realize your awesome car ! I wait to see it on the wheels ! (Mik from France)
Not enough thumbs up could be given. Thank you for showing all you have on the Arete build, and taking the time to look back mid way and look back in hindsight for changes.
I am currently toying with a moldless construction on a Morgan Plus8 /MG-TD type tub. It's a simple form, quickly built up and reinforcements can be incorporated into the foam core and the simple flat surfaces are perfect for this.
Perfect for those not wanting or able to commit to creating molds. Make sure you put up some pictures on Instagram and connect over there. Always interested in others projects.
In theory, if you were to throw the idea of a conveniently shaped rear sub-frame out the window and just placed all of the drivetrain components where you wanted them and moved forward from there to support them adequately, you could totally fit basically anything you wanted to into the back of that car. It's surprisingly spacious, after all. This would, however, make servicing those components more challenging because you end up packing the support structure pretty tightly to the engine, exhaust, and intake components. It also doesn't usually end up nearly so pretty, at least not without some significant efforts in fabrication. Take the custom twin-turbo exhaust systems that people have made for the Audi R8, for example. It's a car with a ludicrously tight amount of space for an exhaust system, but some people have decided to use 10 and 15 degree pie cut pre-bent tubing to craft incredibly complex and surprisingly large bore exhaust systems for it (though they do frequently run without a muffler, so there's that). Then look at Project Binky, from Bad Obsession Motorsports, where they took an Austin Mini and crammed the entire running gear, drivetrain, and engine from a turbocharged 2.0L AWD Toyota Celica into it. The amount of work put into fitting a drivetrain into a space where it clearly doesn't fit is mind-boggling, but it can be done. The downside is that you end up with an engine bay so tight that ceramic coating and woven rockwool insulation aren't done for aesthetic purposes but out of necessity to keep the exhaust from literally melting the parts nearby them. Basically, if you poured a cup of water onto the warm engine bay, it would never reach the ground. In this case, if you were to employ a larger alternator and a more substantial battery, you could place things like the intercooler wherever you liked by utilizing electric fans to cool it. You could even go so far as to make the up-draft aero hood even more substantial, diving almost through to the floor of the front chamber, and then stack a radiator for engine coolant, a radiator for a water to air intercooler, a heat exchanger for AC, and even an oil cooler up front, backed by a custom fan shroud to pull air through all of them and up out of the hood. And you'd still have space in the front for a battery or two, fluid tanks, and the front differential. It just gets tight and you'd probably have to rework some of the suspension geometry for the shock actuator levers, but moving them back doesn't necessarily change how they function as long as they still pivot properly and you have a mount in a suitable location on the upper control arm. I would also probably opt for an electric hydraulic pump for hydraulic steering assist, as it is between a common hydraulic steering assistance and electric steering assistance in terms of feel, but allows you to remote mount the pump wherever is suitable, since the fluid is incompressible and the length of the hose is somewhat irrelevant. Another option if you ever decide to redesign the sub-frames is to utilize even longer control arms and narrow the subframe even more between the front wheels to allow you to use a closer steering ratio with longer pivot arms, allowing you even more steering angle on each side without scrubbing the wheels on the tubbed arches or suspension components, which would allow you to make more aggressive steering corrections while driving, or even open up the options for drifting, as long as the rear bias of the central differential allows for it. One option if you want a more rear-biased AWD system and you're willing to buy expensive salvage parts is to find an AWD Lamborghini and use its transmission and differentials for this, as it would be closer to a plug-and-play solution in terms of front to rear biasing, as it was already designed for a mid-engine AWD configuration. Porsche also made use of similar transmissions for their AWD 911 variants, so that's another possible option if the current solution doesn't provide the bias that you want. The fact that you're able to build your own adapter plates and junction tubes is already to your benefit when it comes to adapting drivetrains to your needs. The Audi R8 is another option, too. The only complication to all three of these related options is dealing with whatever transmission and diff control signals the VW-Audi group use to manage them.
Another vote for removing the rubber from the windshield. I think not only the initial aesthetics will be improved, but the rubber will deteriorate and look rough over time. I think you made the right decision regarding the door/side window. I think the time you spend making a nice side window would be less than trying to make that irregularly shaped door work. Amazing work in any case and it's actually a privilege to give my opinion on a project like this.
Well thanks for your input. Glad to have you along for the journey.
As for the little quarter window, I would include it in the door, but not as a little pointy bit. Instead, cut the aft edge of the roof/door parting line back to the point of the window. This will make the door look better as it is a but narrow in the roofline area and really wide in the side. Adding a bit more roof to the door will make it look more balanced, AND you will be able to incorporate the quarter window in as one piece.
La sua intelligenza e bravura va oltre ogni aspettativa, avrei voluto avere un maestro come lei ,complimenti sinceri.
I just came across this today, it is very impressive. I'm not any kind of engineer (except for operating a light rail car), but I do have years of having fun with VWs. I'm working on my own car, using a sand rail chassis, going mid-engined with a 6 cylinder Corvair engine mated to a Porsche 914 transaxle, and topped with a Laser 917 body, to make my version of a Porsche 917 replica. Like you said, as I don't have much experience I can still get close to what I want with pre-made components. Nowhere near to the supercar you're making, but it is what I feel I'm able to do. Great series of videos!
Where "reveal to the world" is a design consideration!
Nice work. :)
Leave the rubber seal mount, till you know how much flex there will be.(Where are the door hinges located ?). You don't wont to end up like some Mclarens, cracking screens, because the glass became a stressed panel. Sort that with V2. Great work, the AWD makes the front end extra tricky. Fun times !!
With all the afford and time in this project I would personally remove the windowrubber for sure, the project is allready so clean! Dont bail out on those pieces! I keep following your project! Do awesome craftmenwork... all the complexity in the project and all the work.. you are really a awesome person!!! Keep on going this great work!!
09:50 I would remove the rubbertrim.
If I was building a car, I would spend more time just so I could get it just how I want it.
Looks like the consensus is to cut it off. (rubber trim) I know it will look better, just needed a little shove to push me to do it. I guess I will have a video coming- "window frame modification!"
@@BuilderCreator Keep it easy replace the windshield.
The mould-less body is almost certainly how we're going to be doing ours, so this was really useful and timely :)
Can be a timesaver if your after a one-off!
@@BuilderCreator Yeah I doubt i'll be making another of these! Really enjoying your build btw
Front and rear door pillars, like where are they. And theres a reason that the door seals are so big.
Its because the load from the front of the car, is transmited through them to the rear of the car, and the rest of the body is conected to that.
Ok you did say that your making the tunnel apart of that.
This should be the sub frame that conects the front suspension sub frame the the engine sub frame. Just like the lotus esprit has.
But please remember the body has a sub frame aswell. Otherwise your car will have no structure to it and will be dangerous.
Remove the seal around the windshield. Its used to seal the windshield after its bonded to the windshield frame.
Definitely worth the effort to remove the rubber from around the windshield. You've put an incredible amount of work into this car to let something like that remain. It looks very cheap and makes it look like a kit car as opposed to a bespoke, custom work of art.
I truly admire your ambition and dedication towards this goal you have set
Get rid of the rubber! The car will look modern comparing to today's supercar. You're doing an Amazing job.
I would remove the rubber from the windshield. Little details like that will really set your supercar build from the others!
I say nix the rubber seal on the windshield, it'll have a much cleaner look. Your foot-well doesn't look any narrower than a Countach, roominess is nice to have, but usually one of the trade-offs with exotic cars. If luck is on your side you'll have a little extra clearance in the tunnel area you can take advantage of at the front for some extra pedal room. Loving the build so far.
May be getting a 3 inch expansion of the foot well. . stay tuned.
Yes, get rid of the rubber seal around the windshield. You will be happier after you get it done and the result will be a lot cleaner. Utilize technology available to improve your project. You will most likely need to add front and rear fender vents to alleviate the air pressure in wheel wells at high speed that can cause the car to lift when you are going for 200mph.
What a great channel. You really inspired me!!
Trim off the moulding around the windshield. Unless you bring the lip on the roof, A-pillars, and valance up so the windshield isn't in such a deep recess. If the windshield sat higher then you could leave the moulding on to hide the windshield glue and help fill in that 1/4" gap that you need around the windshield to allow for body flex and binding against the glass.
I was able to get a C4 without engine or transmission for cheap. My engine is a Ford Mustang V8 (I'm modifying it heavily). I'm liking the FDF Raceshop suspension parts which will save design and fabrication time but give great adjustability. I will go fixed seat (similar to your design), moving foot controls, and redesigned (more modern) body. Speeduino controller for the engine, transaxle, and dash.
I would leave the rubber trim on the screen, if you're bonding the screen into place then the rubber trim will hide the bonding adhesive. The Lotus Elise/Exige has a rubber trim around the screen for this reason.
Windshield - You may be able to find a aluminum 'H' extrusion for glass that could be used to fill the gap up to the body surface. The aluminum is usually anodized which is easily removed. The extrusion can then be annealed to bend easier. The top corner ends can be welded and finished to contour the recess. The bottom section and corners can be bonded after the glass is fitted and bonded on the top and sides. The whole unit then bonded to the body using the industry standard black adhesive. The extrusion can be painted body color there will only be a narrow gap to fill with the black adhesive. The Ferrari Boxer, and others I assume, have this method of installation. It is very flush and looks great.
You just described the system I will be using on the side windows, perfectly.
The windscreen rubber seal, in my opinion, doesn’t really make too much of a difference to the aesthetics. Obviously, the modern trend is a fully bonded screen, but would this involve a redesign of the entire screen recess and the filling and finishing of the roofline.? Ultimately, the choice is a slavish adherence to modernity or more practicality. The glass may not be suitably edged for bonding and at least the seal gives a high degree of flexibility. I personally would keep the seal. Great project, and hats off to your attention to detail and build quality. Which ever way you decide will be the best way for you, so ultimately the correct way for the project. Thanks fo a very interesting series.
In a pandemic, guy manages to build super car, while I struggle to take out garbage 2 meters away. FML
Remove the rubber trim from the windshield for sure! That car is coming along way too well to be ruined with rubber trim. Amazing work!!
thank you for sharing your unique talents. As for the windshield, definitely loose the rubber molding. The form and design screams for "smooth" window to body transitions.
Removing the rubber would have a great look, but the seal maybe a big headache, either way the work is still there.
I think removing the rubber seal on the windshield is the best route. The extra work will be worth it with the final product.
As I had to leave my garage, before the end of the realization of the master/plug ... I used the method that you described ...
And at the time, I did not know the existence of a fiberglass fabric like 50g ... I took 200 ...
I quickly made the surface of my plug before the forced relocation and having to break it..
A year later ... I took this plug again ... Piece by piece. For example, I didn't reinforce the wing with a wooden structure ... I just removed 20cm2 of foam, fiberize that part from the inside, and then remove another 20cm2, and so on. Since I no longer had a garage, I did this in my apartment, each part after the other ... Did I mention that the master had been cut into 40 pieces to fit in 2m3 room storage for a year ...?
It's hard to rebuild a broken egg ... :) Never give up on a project. Just try to finish it later.
The second time around is always better; we sometimes cling to the old for sake of time or money, but end up glad to have the improvement in the end.
Its wise to use a stock windshield as it can easily get cracked by a rock or something else. makes replacement easy and affordable. As far as the rubber trim, I would consider what people have tried it have to say the most. Such as David Guyton. Aesthetics is important. My inclination would be to remove it for aesthetic and aero reasons. After all the work you have already put into it, you might as well go that extra mile.
your passion is unbelievable, good for you
Flush mount the windshield brotha, that rubber gasket is going to just detract from the overall awesome appearance. Keep up the good work though, I'm digging the videos. Thanks for sharing!
Remove the trim. Great job, I love your videos.
Hi, nice job! i would not use a rubber seal because they damage over time. your best option with out would look better too! The countach used a metal strip thats another way. Keep up the good work!!
Consult a few different auto glass shops about windshield options. Ive found that in my 10yr auto glass career, even the most knowledgeable mechanics have no clue about windshield procedures. Auto glass is a specialty trade that is only taught to people that are IN the auto glass business. There are no classes you can go take for it. So a lot of people are just misinformed, and spread misinformation about the subject.
As for your question.......
Leave it on if you want to get away with not having to make the edges of the frame perfect. And i mean PERFECT!
Take it off if you dont care about how much time and energy you are going to spend making the edge of the frame look perfect. And i...... mean...... PERFECT!!!
Also, if you decide to remove the rubber trim from the glass, just look into a glass that doesnt come with a rubber trim on it. That would be easier than having to buy that same windshield and cutting off the trim again risking glass damage.
You are probably aware, but beyond looks, there are 3 functional reasons, small details that matter, why modern cars have a smooth transition, getting rid of the rubber around the windshield:
1. To help reduce drag coeficient by contributing to more fluid surfaces, which improves fuel economy, range and performance overall. Considering the ever stricter governmental and international regulations on emissions and efficiency, every small detail counts and helps.
2. Over time, that rubber tends to fail, crack, flake, warp from thermal cycles and UV exposure, creating humidity or actual leaks, which causes rust etc etc.
3. Manufacturing time is cut down a bit by the fact that instead of having additional steps to fit the rubber seal around the windshield and then fit them both in place, an adhesive bead is laid by a robotic arm and immediately after the windshield is just dropped and layed into place while the vehicle moves on to the next station of assembly as the adhesive cures.
So in short: Yes, it makes a lot of sense to get rid of the rubber seal, in the context of modern cars and reasons mentioned above.
You can shim steering racks. People take shims out for more steering angle in drift cars. You can easily customize the travel
the windshield rubber is not just a seal, it allows the window to flex. if you bond the window to the frame it will probably crack at the first hard bump. the only other alternative is to heat bend some polycarbonate around the windshield and go with a lexan windshield.
With regards to the footwell, have you considered mounting the organic component (ie. the driver) in the middle of the vehicle? That would give you the space you need for feet & pedals, and you could use two small-ish seats behind the driver at either side like McLaren did with the F1. Apart from getting another seat in, it means the driver (the most important component) has more room & can concentrate better on the actual driving.
Excepting there is a transmission and center differential in a tunnel there. I have fixed the foot room problem however. see this video- th-cam.com/video/WIC5shmAZdQ/w-d-xo.html
Absolutely love it, I wish there would've been a way to get this kind of access and insight 15 years ago... I would've probably made some different choices in life. Amazing work and I really appreciate you putting together this very informative video. Really, great work and all the best to you ;)
The next 15 years starts today.
hi...most builders are using a "uni-body", complete, floor pan to simplify their body build/mods.
many channels already show that approach; and it's a great time saver, since steering and
suspension are already figured out. (much easier to modify steering and suspension than invent it!).
great job overall...i have been doing this off and on for 50 years...would've suggested you
tapped into existing knowledge/experience a little more at the start. Good Job! walt.
Thanks Walt. I never wanted this project to be easier. My only regret (okay, their are probably many.) is that I didn't incorporate the suspension pick up points in the monocoque. When I started I didn't have the knowledge (and a few tool ) that I now have.
Ya I would cut the rubber off around the window, but maybe after the build is done. I think driving it first is more important. I’m sure after driving it, there would be other things you would have to change anyway
Make sure the narrow door seal is really reinforce since it's so narrow. Protection for side impacts.
Since you're building this from the bottom up I would go ahead and remove the molding on the windshield. It's one of those things that will not only look better but if you didn't do it, it would bother you every time you saw it!
get rid of the rubber for sure, its totally worth the extra work , great project ,looking forward to your upcoming videos.
Hiya. Really interesting project. Found the channel a couple of days ago and I've watched a couple of the videos now and it looks like you are making good progress.
I have a similar project in the pipeline at the moment. I'm planning to do a build series on my channel as well if you are interested.
Regarding the windscreen seal; Yes remove it. You have done all that work it would be a shame to spoil the ascetic with a bit of ugly 90's technology. You will get a much sharper finish and you can match the gap and flush with the other fits around the vehicle. I think you will be glad you did, once you have.
All the best of luck, I admire your dedication and appreciate the amount of effort it has taken you to get this far. 👍
Great advice!! Im probably gonna have to watch the last section once or twice more to fully understand this moldless method
Trim the rubber off that will be more modern.
wow great. can't wait to see the result.
Those hinges you may want to look into the front hood hinges on a Porsche 550 Spyder, then look at how the 550 Replicate solutions were.
Also the Datsun Z range of cars from 69-78 the rear hatch hinges have , the same body line challenges as you have. You may find a solution. Face Book groups is your Friend.
You wind shield to get the upgrade look you need to, urethane it in.
But I would make the up grade easier on my self .
I would use "plastilen Clay"
So drying time is not an issue
Then use cloth over the plastilen make a windshield mold. Then pull a part out bonding it to your existing frame ,trim and body fill the seam edges.
The change has already been completed. Yo can see the process I used here - th-cam.com/video/QucvCSwLaHgj/w-d-xo.htmlaz Thanks for your comment/suggestions.
YES Flush mount windshield! Will look much more clean
Yes, it’s worth the time to reconstruct the windshield. If you don’t, people might confuse it with a “kit car”.
Thanks for the image of your wife revealing to the world. Kinda put me off breakfast but ok. Engineers... smh. Love the car tho :P
For future reference, the gt86 has a manual rack as it has electric power steering in the column.
A future Lamborghini... I mean, like it’s creator that is sharing piece by piece how to build a real supercar.
i really appreciate your work and your supercar design is just awesome can't wait to see it drive! love from india.
Lots of views from India! We should set a fan club there. Haha!
@@BuilderCreator yeh sure sir.
Try to use an electric rack out of a subaru or something similar can be found pretty cheap in yards now. Theyve been useing them for some time
Flush mount / erase rubber trim windshield, certian things really date cars, headlights, trim, plastic, and window rubber- the flush mount will make it current looking.
Also wear a respirator please n protect health ur a genius
Wow. I didn’t see that coming. a Cavalier would’ve been 169th on the list of any, “guess what model windshield I used was,” type question. do whatever makes you happy, Hombre...don’t ask us Mass Pro Auto Owners. keep killing, Dude.
Stunning shots great effort! Does anyone else also almost only listen to heavy music like Metallica or Delta Parole when they drive?
Try looking at a bifold hinge from a lazy Susan corner cabinet door that might get the clearance you need for the rear bonnet.
You should look at Mustang electric steering racks. Easy fit.
Didn't see one in the wrecking yard. Set up for now with the Toyota, but if i have problems I'll look into one.
Filling the roof and pillars to match up to the windshield seems the easiest plus strengthens the roof a biy.
Trim off the seal. Amazing work.
You can catch the trim and re-fit in this video. - th-cam.com/video/QucvCSwLaHgj/w-d-xo.htmlaz
Thanks for taken the time and sharing your insight. I’m currently in the body design phase of my own super car project. Also in my option you should ditch the seal.
Hey! I've come across your videos before of your 5 axis build and in a turn of synchronicity, tomorrows video talks about my recent acquisition of an X-Y table to build one. Also, taking a look at your "Split decision" Project, I'm going to add a mention in my said, next video, to send people your way to see how you've used an existing car "cabin" to solve a lot of work. very apropos to the content of this video.
@@BuilderCreator Thanks, I will be happy to return the favor.
I really wish I knew how to design a monocoque tub. Maybe for my next project I can try and make one.
I think it would look better without the rubber trim on the windshield. Could you make some sort of fiberglass frame that would cover the perimeter of the glass and would blend it into the body? That might be more work than filling and sanding though.
Whats a little filling and sanding among friends - as long as you folks out there will watch a sanding and filling video - I'm willing!
Building cars round people in driving position would make sense. That way can see out windows from side, front, back. Had an mx5 mk1 and had to roll out of it. 😀
Another excellent video, thanks from London England 👍
Ps. Personally for the amount of effort you've put in I'd definitely go Flush for the window! Also the rear hatch it sounds a bit mad but I immediately thought of double glazed windows as they have some unique hinges for openers especially top openers which you could adapt the concept/re-engineer something from that field for the Supercar Build, might save having to invent a new hinge system just adapt an existing one of you come across something that will create the clearance for the rear hatch.. just a thought, I know it sounds a bit mad so just ignore me if that sounds a bit too wacky.
Best regards from London England 👍
The window is now flush; you can catch a video of the job here - th-cam.com/video/WIC5shmAZdQ/w-d-xo.html I have also come to a solution to the hinge and will , of course, let everyone see that in a future video. Thanks for watching.
Have you looked at diy angle kits for drift cars? You can reduce your turning radius by moving the tie rod pick-up point towards the axis of rotation of the knuckle.
Also I think you should remove the windshield moulding.
Problem with angle kits is that they screw up the ackerman, and as a result drivebility for anything other than drift is shit. Also, that wouldn't exactly solve his problem which is inner side of wheel hitting the front subframe if I'm not mistaken.