Part 10. Voron 0.2 Build - Heated Bed and Cable Chain Install

In this video I go through the process of installing the Heated Bed into the Kirigami frame.
Since my Voron 0.2 is self sourced, I didn't have pre-cut cables. If I did this process would be a lot easier/smoother. Having said that, you just need to some minimal work of crimping to get this to all work together. I also used my original V0 AC bed- most builders will be using DC. Your process will be identical to this section of the video, but your wire colors may be different (you will probably have a black and red wire, instead of two red wires).
If you are looking for a video on how to install the magnetic bed and heated bed, I show that in my original Voron 0.1 bed install video here:
• Voron 0.1 Build Series...
** Also- safety first! I did not install a thermal fuse, but it's a good idea to put one on.
My build was sponsored by Boxxy Prints. Get your 3d printed parts here:
boxxyprints.com/product/v0-1-...
Printed part colors are from Fusion Filaments, Cosmic Ray Blue and Alpha Particle Orange ABS 1.5.
fusionfilaments.com/collectio...
Powder Coated Extrusions are from DLLPDF. These extrusions, at the time of the video are Mitsumi. They are powder coated and exactly 15mm x 15mm (the coating adds a small amount of thickness). I purchased a full v0.2 extrusion kit.
dllpdf.com/v0.2
Tool Recommendations: (not all were mentioned in this intro video, but are used later in my build):
**Disclosure: these are AFFILIATE LINKS- costs you nothing extra, and helps my channel
Components:
SKR Pico: amzn.to/3E0lZk5
Stepper online motors: amzn.to/3YoN6h4
Mellow Fly SHT 36 V2: boxxyprints.com/product/mello... * I planned to use this, but went BTT EBB36 due to a firmware issue.
BTT EBB36: amzn.to/3xdaphQ (I used V1, but this is V1.2)
Tools:
PA-09 Engineer Crimping tool: amzn.to/3aLgZB9
Hakko Soldering Station: amzn.to/3FZtsiM
Hakko Heat Insert Tool: amzn.to/3aLh6N5
Small Finishing Sander: amzn.to/3FTwt4p
Metal Ruler: amzn.to/3n5YsoQ
Small Screwdriver Set: amzn.to/3DNNc7h
Heavy Duty Scissors: amzn.to/3DObKNm
Bondhus Hex Drivers (Ball Driver): amzn.to/3vpjti8
Wiha Hex Drivers: amzn.to/3vp5Tv4
Titan Ratcheting Crimper: amzn.to/3aKaONE
Ferrule Crimping Tool: amzn.to/2Z3axDb
Consumables:
Blue Permatex: amzn.to/3ATPmjE
Isopropyl Alcohol (Spray Bottle): amzn.to/3lRp1Pe
JST XH Connector Kit (Fan connectors, Motor Connectors, etc.): amzn.to/3BTMYuM
Synthetic Lube: amzn.to/3FUyptf
Synthetic Oil: amzn.to/3BW2TZE
Blue Permatex: amzn.to/3ATPmjE
Voron 0.1 Discord Link:
/ discord

[@UloPe]

Careful with those isolated ferrules, the plastic isolation can prevent full insertion into the Wago terminal and therefore lead to bad contact.

[@GregsMakerCorner]

Very true! These were no problem, but I do think it’s just fine to use bare wire vs ferrules in wagos because the latter is definitely optional.

[@sebastiansadowski9663]

Hi! Thanks for the build guide! It was very helpful. You mentioned in the desciption that you went for BTT EBB36 due to a firmware issue in Mellow Fly SHT 36 V2. What firmware issue did you mean?

[@GregsMakerCorner]

The mellow fly board I had was not flashed with any firmware, so it wasn’t possible to get it working. I ended up just using the BTTEBB36 and it has been working flawlessly since I installed it.

[@yaronskp]

What is the screws length you use for the bed? 40mm like the manual does for regular bed?

[@chriseow]

hey Greg, for AC bed heater, do
you have any videos that show how to wire the SSR and how to ground the heater bed to the bed frame?

[@GregsMakerCorner]

Hmm I think I show it in my original Voron 0.1 series, but that was also for a different board (e3 v2). Did you figure this out? You can "see" what pins I'm using for the SSR / AC bed by checking out my printer.cfg file for my v02. I used gpio 20 (off the "laser" connector). github.com/techyg/VoronPrinterConfigs/blob/main/Voron02/printer.cfg

[@chriseow]

@@GregsMakerCorner ok will take a look at your 0.1 video again. thanks!

[@krillenummer1]

Hi! love your detailed videos! One question, where did you get the PCB board for the connectors to the thermistor that you mount on the side of the kirigami bed? And where do you find the STL for the part holding the WAGO connectors?

[@GregsMakerCorner]

Thanks! The printed parts and pcb for the thermistor are all from the ldo Kirigami kit. Stl files are here- github.com/MotorDynamicsLab/LDOVoron0/tree/main/STLs/Kirigami

[@FaenumVena]

The voron manual says to use 3 washers after the nuts, but I see you missed them off and I cant find them in my kit. Is there a reason for leaving them off?

[@GregsMakerCorner]

I used m3 lock nuts instead, which was the previous way of doing it. Washers are easier to install but either way works.

[@FaenumVena]

@@GregsMakerCorner ah ok thanks, Im not sure if I have any of those in the kit but I think I've got some laying around somewhere

[@Joebus100]

Have you noticed any issues with the wires rubbing up against the vertical extrusion that mounts the bed rails? Right where they go into the cable chain at the bed mount it looks like the would be rubbing on that rail as the bed moves up and down.

[@GregsMakerCorner]

Not that I have noticed. I did end up replacing the thicker gauge wires with thinner and more flexible ones so the wires don’t protrude out of the chain like they may have been on the video.

[@Joebus100]

@@GregsMakerCorner Thanks! Thank you for the video as well. Was helpful during my build.

[@crazynanoman]

My magnetic layer did not have holes for screw access. Not sure how big of a deal that is or not.

[@GregsMakerCorner]

Shouldn’t be a big issue. You can just use an exacto knife to cut the holes if needed.

[@eindeveloper6225]

Why you don‘t use a thermal fuse?

[@GregsMakerCorner]

Short but bad answer- I didn’t have it on my original kit and didn’t take the time to put one back on. I have it on 2/3 of my current v0’s so it’s definitely a good idea.