From my experience, it's not so much the flow of the air filter,,,it's more the intake air temp that needs to be monitored...just slapping on the hot air intake makes you lose power....direct cooler air and the car runs way better....the 3to 4000 rpm are needs timing advance to get rid of that flat spot,and that alone will make the car a lot better to drive
Most aftermarket Warm Air Induction kits lose power over the stock airbox. The OEM air box is a tuned length also so when choosing an aftermarket induction kit people should consider “tuned length” and a cold air source rather than the kit sucking in warm turbulent air from under the bonnet. 👌
I believe the tuned length factor mostly just applies to the run from the intake valve to the intake manifold as it is the change in diameter at the manifold that reflects pressure waves to aid with scavenging at specific RPMs
I have a 2007 ZC31S 104k miles, like yours. I also did a lot of work to bring this car back to life after 17 years of neglect! Thank you so much for sharing the info in your videos, it's so helpful, particularly sharing the gains you had with the tune, 4/2/1 header and dyno tune, and the disassembly of the steering rack (I think my bushings are shot too - slight play). Can I ask, did you tune the car yourself? I am curious if it's possible to tune my car with OBD software at home using your settings of Lambda 0.9 13:1 and ignition advance +8 degrees? I cannot find a tuning garage near that will do the work on a dyno. Can I also ask, is the steering generally heavier than most other cars in the Swift? Many thanks!
HI .Thanks for writing to me. Sound like we're going through the same stuff with our old cars :) You can't remap the ECU through the OBD-port. You need to take the ECU out and connect it directly to the tuning tool. In order to do the tuning you need a "mappack" so you can access the dirrerent maps, such as lambda, ignition, MAF-scaling ect. If you don't have the hard- and software to do this, then it is impossible for you to do that. Regarding the ignition, I reccomend you do it in steps of 2 degrees at at time, just to ensure no knock actiivity occurs. Best of luck :) Simon
@@autofokusDanmark Hi, it would be very good if you can show in a video how you do this tuning on the bench ...I also have a 2008 Swift Sport, and really enjoy driving! Thanks for all your uploads!
Hi @ . Thanks for writing to me. Let me see what I can do, I do not have the car anymore, but I believe I have an ECU which I can use for the purpose😌.
Great channel, I have exactly the same car for the last 10 years , love it, but it drives me mad now as I can’t find where the clunking noise come from🤦🏻♂️, changed control arms with all the bushings and ball bearings, changed the drop links , strut mounts and the noise is still there, so my suspicion now is a steering rack , if you have any ideas please let me know, and thank you for your videos 🤝🏻
@audriulis I'm searching for little noises on my 07 zc31s as well...the caliper pins seem to be worn on mine,,and that rattles when I hit ruts in the road...if I hold the brakes while on the rough surface, the noise goes away
@@brucksport not sure if it helps, but I found adding some sticky backed foam pads to the bonnet contact points (little black rubber bungs) eliminated the low rev rattle I had. It was the bonnet rattling on the worn down stops! 😅
@@IvermectinFTW When you get the hang of it, it is actually quite easy. Its getting the file downloaded from the ECU which sometimes is the difficult task.
@@autofokusDanmark - thank you once again for your help. Much appreciated :) A final question if you don't mind - can you download and upload files from/to the ECU using the OBD port or do you need to remove the ECU and connect directly to the pins?
Try a proper cold air intake like the Simota. They will actually deliver performance gains, as they aren't pulling in hot engine bay air like yours is.
I actually fitted a heat blanket which shields off the engine heat (as good as it can). But I agree with you, it is a better solution. Thanks for commenting. /Simon
That is not a good intake for these. If you got instead a k&n filter on the stock airbox or a monster sport intake you would get deffo better results. The position on this does not allow cold air inside. Also it's in a place that there is a lot of heat. I'd suggest to check the intake temps with this setup and the stock one you would see the temp difference is big
Hi there :) I know what write is a big problem with this after market filter. However, the stock air filter box has a poor flow compared to this new one, and I tried to seperate the engine bay with a heat blanket, and it seems to reduce the heat - But I have not done a temperature measurement comparison of the two "chambers" yet. But I would like to do that actually. One thing I would like to ad though is a tube with fresh air feeding the air filter chamber from the bumber, but I simply can't find a space for it.
@@autofokusDanmark okay. Efter min mening kan du ikke bruge de målinger til en noget så. Har selv leget lidt med det syntes det var alt for upræcis og man fik nogle sjove målinger hver gang alt efter vind og vejr osv.. Hvis det var mig ville jeg leje et rullefelt og lave alt de før og efter målinger på samme rullefelt. For at få noget rigtigt data, har testet alt muligt på en gamle Toyota starlet selv på rullefelt, og man bliver overrasket over hvad der virker og ikke virker.
From my experience, it's not so much the flow of the air filter,,,it's more the intake air temp that needs to be monitored...just slapping on the hot air intake makes you lose power....direct cooler air and the car runs way better....the 3to 4000 rpm are needs timing advance to get rid of that flat spot,and that alone will make the car a lot better to drive
Bare spyt nogle flere videoer ud. Det er super godt og indholdsrigt indhold😊.
@@HenningPetersen-k6z 1000 tak for din kommentar Henning😀
Most aftermarket Warm Air Induction kits lose power over the stock airbox. The OEM air box is a tuned length also so when choosing an aftermarket induction kit people should consider “tuned length” and a cold air source rather than the kit sucking in warm turbulent air from under the bonnet. 👌
What is you add an exhaust too. Maybe then break in to 140 hp
I believe the tuned length factor mostly just applies to the run from the intake valve to the intake manifold as it is the change in diameter at the manifold that reflects pressure waves to aid with scavenging at specific RPMs
@@ceejaywilliams5448 Next step is actually adding a new exhaust manifold and a race cat. Hopefully 140 is achievable then :)
@autofokusDanmark I have the ZC32S. With induction kit and back box delete. It's dyno 138.8 hp. Before it was mapped it was making 130 hp.
@@ceejaywilliams5448 very similar to my then☺️ Nice car!
I have a 2007 ZC31S 104k miles, like yours. I also did a lot of work to bring this car back to life after 17 years of neglect! Thank you so much for sharing the info in your videos, it's so helpful, particularly sharing the gains you had with the tune, 4/2/1 header and dyno tune, and the disassembly of the steering rack (I think my bushings are shot too - slight play). Can I ask, did you tune the car yourself? I am curious if it's possible to tune my car with OBD software at home using your settings of Lambda 0.9 13:1 and ignition advance +8 degrees? I cannot find a tuning garage near that will do the work on a dyno. Can I also ask, is the steering generally heavier than most other cars in the Swift? Many thanks!
HI .Thanks for writing to me. Sound like we're going through the same stuff with our old cars :)
You can't remap the ECU through the OBD-port. You need to take the ECU out and connect it directly to the tuning tool.
In order to do the tuning you need a "mappack" so you can access the dirrerent maps, such as lambda, ignition, MAF-scaling ect. If you don't have the hard- and software to do this, then it is impossible for you to do that.
Regarding the ignition, I reccomend you do it in steps of 2 degrees at at time, just to ensure no knock actiivity occurs.
Best of luck :)
Simon
@@autofokusDanmark Thanks Simon, very kind of you to reply. I will research more along these lines - you have pointed me in the right direction!
@@autofokusDanmark Hi, it would be very good if you can show in a video how you do this tuning on the bench ...I also have a 2008 Swift Sport, and really enjoy driving! Thanks for all your uploads!
Hi @ . Thanks for writing to me. Let me see what I can do, I do not have the car anymore, but I believe I have an ECU which I can use for the purpose😌.
Hello there! Thanks for the video! I have the same car. I would like to know out of curiosity what type of Dyno you used. Thanks a lot!
@@YuichiTamaki you are so welcome☺️.
I used the app PerfExpert. Works like a charm😎
Thank you
Great channel, I have exactly the same car for the last 10 years , love it, but it drives me mad now as I can’t find where the clunking noise come from🤦🏻♂️, changed control arms with all the bushings and ball bearings, changed the drop links , strut mounts and the noise is still there, so my suspicion now is a steering rack , if you have any ideas please let me know, and thank you for your videos 🤝🏻
Hi @@audriulis . Thanks a lot for your comment and positive feed back.
Perhaps it could be an engine or transmission mount.
@@autofokusDanmark Thats another thing to look into, top two look ok , but I am not sure about the bottom one, thank you 👍🏻
@audriulis I'm searching for little noises on my 07 zc31s as well...the caliper pins seem to be worn on mine,,and that rattles when I hit ruts in the road...if I hold the brakes while on the rough surface, the noise goes away
@@brucksport I have that as well , but only left side, thanks
@@brucksport not sure if it helps, but I found adding some sticky backed foam pads to the bonnet contact points (little black rubber bungs) eliminated the low rev rattle I had. It was the bonnet rattling on the worn down stops! 😅
Great video! Can i ask what computer software you used to change the ignition timing and fuelling on the ECU?
Thanks a lot :)
I use WINols to edit the different maps in the ECU.
Thanks for reply. Is this software difficult to use? Did you get training on it prior to use?
@@IvermectinFTW When you get the hang of it, it is actually quite easy. Its getting the file downloaded from the ECU which sometimes is the difficult task.
@@autofokusDanmark - thank you once again for your help. Much appreciated :) A final question if you don't mind - can you download and upload files from/to the ECU using the OBD port or do you need to remove the ECU and connect directly to the pins?
Good video and clearly explained. Where or how can you access WINols software?
@@IvermectinFTW Thanks!
It is bought at EVC Electronic.
Try a proper cold air intake like the Simota. They will actually deliver performance gains, as they aren't pulling in hot engine bay air like yours is.
I actually fitted a heat blanket which shields off the engine heat (as good as it can). But I agree with you, it is a better solution.
Thanks for commenting.
/Simon
That is not a good intake for these. If you got instead a k&n filter on the stock airbox or a monster sport intake you would get deffo better results. The position on this does not allow cold air inside. Also it's in a place that there is a lot of heat. I'd suggest to check the intake temps with this setup and the stock one you would see the temp difference is big
Hi there :) I know what write is a big problem with this after market filter. However, the stock air filter box has a poor flow compared to this new one, and I tried to seperate the engine bay with a heat blanket, and it seems to reduce the heat - But I have not done a temperature measurement comparison of the two "chambers" yet. But I would like to do that actually.
One thing I would like to ad though is a tube with fresh air feeding the air filter chamber from the bumber, but I simply can't find a space for it.
Was this tuned by th obd port or bench tune
Hi. I am tuning it thorugh bench. OBD can not be done with this ECU.
Er det bare mig eller så er der noget galt med dine målinger det kan næsten ikke passe den kun køre max 5500 rpms ? Er det målt på vejen ?
@@henriksimonsen6024 Det er fordi omdr setpunktet i Perfexpert var forkert.
Den “måler” nemlig omdrejningerne udfra hastigheden på bilen.
Godt set!👌🙂
@@autofokusDanmark okay. Efter min mening kan du ikke bruge de målinger til en noget så. Har selv leget lidt med det syntes det var alt for upræcis og man fik nogle sjove målinger hver gang alt efter vind og vejr osv.. Hvis det var mig ville jeg leje et rullefelt og lave alt de før og efter målinger på samme rullefelt. For at få noget rigtigt data, har testet alt muligt på en gamle Toyota starlet selv på rullefelt, og man bliver overrasket over hvad der virker og ikke virker.
Elsker det. Måske du vil hjælpe mig med min? :)
@@iaretehleet du kun lige sende mig en mail på autofokus@outlook.dk😇