Your First Engine Job - Arming Yourself With The Knowledge And Tools Needed To Get It Done
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ม.ค. 2023
- This Jeep 4.0 is the first one we've ever done, so before we start spinning wrenches some homework and research is in order. We talk about what to look for and where to find it, along with some of the basic tools and procedures that are common to any engine rebuild.
#diyautorepair #autoparts #engines
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Take pictures or video of every bolt and fastener before and after each part is removed. Keep the fasteners with the parts. Document the steps it took to disassemble it so you can reverse the process. You will not regret taking too many pictures and written notes.
for sure! back in the OG we only had Polaroid cameras or film
Remember to wear pants while taking pictures.
Pics are great I also suggest putting bolts back in holes they come from helps keep track that and cardboard templates
@@chriscadman6379 Pants are not strictly needed unless you plan to post the pictures online.
@@cg9952 Pictures cost nothing to take nowadays. Don't even get me started on how hard it was to get a zoomed in photo developed back in the day.
I'm building my sbc next to my grandma's couch. She's so happy to see me do what I've always wanted to do since I was a kid
What a great, supportive grandma. Cherish her, you won’t have her forever.
Very cool!
original factory engine is always better than your rebuuild.- face it
100% correct. I call it a "regroup". Put the parts away that aren't needed. Clean the tools. Put them back in the wrench holder. Put them back on the socket rail. Nothing worse than being ready to go and "I lost the 10mm wrench and I don't have another one". Another thing is that many of the tools can be bought used. Craigslist, FB Marketplace, Letgo, etc. can all net good tools and equipment for a good price. Autozone and the "majors" rent tools that you might not have. Rule of thumb: If you borrow it once or twice, the third time you should probably own one for yourself. As noted by others, mark lines and connections with numbers. That is "#1 hose goes to #1 port" on the valve cover as an example. This way when you reassemble, if you still see blue (or green or whatever color) tape on something, you've missed something or it's disconnected. I did an oil cooler with my cousin on his 2014 Caravan 3.6L and that was what we did to keep organized. When we were done, no tape left and he's made several trips to upstate NY and back without issue. We did it right in front of my house in 1.5 days. We only had to make one, "Oh no, time for a parts store run" during the whole project. Bins, containers, and Ziplock bags (the ones from WM are fine) to organize smaller items really helps.
I'll add a modern spin on things: Take photos with your phone or digital camera before things come apart (Does that go over or under the bracket? Does it go to the left or right of it? Did it have a wire tie there?) A photo is worth a 1000 words. More photos are worth hundreds of thousands of words. Make sure you can stop and store everything safely and easily if you run out of daylight, the weather turns bad on you, or it's getting late and you have to get to work tomorrow. Take videos of the vehicle before, during and afterward. Get a digital shop manual. Spend the money and get the OEM one, or at least Alldata for a year for your vehicle. You wouldn't go to a doctor that used wrong/outdated information to treat you and your vehicle's shop manual is no different. A digital shop manual can be printed and reprinted many times and the pages can be recycled when they are done with it.
Magnetic bowls (Harbor Freight has them cheap) will keep fasteners organized and in order so they all go back as they should. Put nuts/bolts, etc. into parts being removed so you know where they belong. In the case of storing parts, if you clean them up enough and in the case of your XJ, you have a "storage box" (the back area) for everything. Line the inside with old clean carpeting, cardboard (free at any supermarket for the asking) or even a cheap tarp from HF. Sometimes too many parts and pieces in the way in front of you makes a task more daunting than it really is.
If possible, have a friend help you. Not only for the extra eyes, the moral support and the inevitable, "I need a lift to the parts store" runs, but also for safety. There's strength in numbers and power in putting two (or more) minds on a problem. Respect that person's time and return the favor. Make sure that they are well fed and take breaks to keep you sharp. Tomorrow's another day with something. If you get stuck, come back to it the next day. Sometimes that's what it takes.
Marking hoses and connections as you take them off can save a lot of headache. It reduces the risk of getting something backwards, and its a good habit to develop. Especially if it’s something you’re not familiar with, or if it’s gonna be apart for awhile. Colored wire ties, colored zip ties, colored paint markers, etc. Whatever can give you the ability to identify exactly where a line or wire came from when you’re putting everything back together.
Masking tape and a sharpie are indispensable as well.
Pictures are faster
@yeahitskimmel pictures are faster, but don't help when you are trying to reinstall your wiring harness . You have 3 of the same connector and have no clue where each one goes to.
As an 'old timer' I remember my first engine pull. Way before the internet. We had Chilton manuals. There is a bit of irony that now there is a lot of information on HOW to do it but less interest in actually doing it. And, as an old timers, I really do appreciate this channel and all of the sources of information available today.
God, the Chilton manual sure saved my bacon back in the early 70s when I was young, dumb and poor!!
Luckily, I never had to rebuild an engine but on repairs or replacing components, the Chiltons had no equal!
The Chilton manual at that time covered all domestic brands and models. It allowed me to replace a driveshaft, change out a cracked exhaust manifold, replace a water pump along with normal maintenance.
The Chilton manual "resided" in the trunk of my '68 Dodge Coronet along with jumper cables, basic tool box and the spare tire.
@@richstanton8545 I did the same thing with my 68 Dart that I was daily driving when I was younger. It was my first daily driver at 19, and knowing how to fix it when it needed repairs was invaulable. From then on, I have had a repair manual of some kind on the older vehicles I have driven over the years.
I can remember pulling a 440 out of my buddy's '70 Charger in the apartment building's parking lot and rebuilding the engine on the kitchen floor...The wife wasn't too happy and divorced me a couple of years later. Fun times.
The cheap harbor freight plastic tackle box organizers are great for putting bolts in when you aren’t familiar with a job. Take off the valve cover, all the bolts go in one section. Take off the alternator all the bolts go in another section. That or all the extra Tupperware you can steal from the kitchen. 😂
Keeping organized would be my tip. bagging and tagging bolts, specifying where they came from and the order they came out of. Noting if particular ones go a certain way or whatever. Go overboard with taking photos with your phone as you go along tearing it apart. Even if you think you'll remember something or as trivial as it may seem, take a photo of it anyways as it sits so that you can reference it later.
I can also remember pulling an 327 out of a buddy's '64 Impala, lugging into his parent's basement and rebuilding it on the floor. After we rebuilt it we hooked up everything and started it on the floor....smoking up the whole house. Wow...I've never seen his mother so mad...fun times.
Reminds me of my early teens, all I had was a gravel driveway. The cheapest way then was three 10' 4x4's, 2' of 1" schedule 40 black iron pipe and a chain. You drill a hole about a foot in on each 4x4, slide the pipe through and weave the chain around the ends, stand it up like teepee making it taught and then hook a chain hoist or a come along, roll the vehicle beneath, yank the engine & tranny by raising it while rolling the vehicle back as you go.
With very few nickels to go around, it can't be beat, that and a couple of cement blocks on a chunk of plywood was the workbench. That "hoist" was used by all my friends cuz we were all pretty much in the same $$ boat. And you know what? it worked really well cuz a roll around hoist wasn't in the way. Besides, there were no cheap Chinesium hoists in those days so they were way out of our price range, even renting one was too much to bear when it could be better spent on parts.
I look back fondly on those times as we all had a lot of fun "on the cheap".
Steve M. The walking automotive encyclopedia. The classic car savant. My mornings simply aren't complete without my AM dose of Junkyard crawl.
Same
I've done one 4.0 rebuild on a '99 Grand Cherokee. Bought a core motor from a similar year regular Cherokee. Come to find out that the Cherokee blocks are different than the Grand Cherokee blocks where holes are cast into them for accessorie brackets to mount to, because the accessories are in different locations between the Cherokee and Grand Cherokee. Ended up having to tear the Cherokee block back down and putting all the guts into the Grand Cherokee block.
Just a little heads up, incase your core motor came from a Grand Cherokee. You may want to compare the areas on the blocks where the accessorie brackets mount to make sure they are the same.
Different between the Wrangler as well .
Sometimes it is possible to swap the accessory drives rather than track down a specific casting .
Usually though , it is simply an omitted matching step and locating where the hole SHOULD be , then drilling and tapping one , is pretty straightforward .
Often it marked already with a dimple or small hole .
Use the bracket from your old motor as a guide / template ,assuming it is merely a single missing hole .
Lots of times a machine shop will be able to do this for you if they still have your block or head , and , for a minimal extra expense .
It may be more if you just walk in needing the one hole drilled and tapped .
A big issue is the 99+ model years with the coil packs versus the older distributor fired models .
The 0331 head has added bosses that are drilled and tapped for the coil packs and those are not present on the earlier ( and better flowing ! ) heads .
There are a lot of Jeep specific forums with gold mines of info out there , so , if you have a question or problem , they have seen it before most likely .
Sure would have been nice to have these in the 70s and 80s .
Back in the day Mitchell was your best friend.
"A junkyard is a classroom ", couldn't agree more.
Glidden was the master of 351s.
Resist the urge to just cut connections that are hanging you up. Took me a while to figure that one out, the mindset of I'll just buy a new trans cooler line or vacuum, fuel, it'll add up fast lol and cost more time down the road. Now do I still sometimes cut things I shouldn't? Absolutely but I know better so there's that lol.
Also don't put any fingers between the engine and a solid surface, things slip chains break so do bones. It's all fun and whatnot till somebody ends up with a "strong hand" lmao
Hey Tony,
Tim here, yea, community engine hoist.......my 2 buds and i, were all doin motors in our respective hot rods.....we knew we were gonna need stuff....so we bought a good jack, foldable engine hoist, and engine stand, together (split 3 ways) was alot cheaper, and our mindset was, whoever needed that stuff at any time, cud grab it and go......i fortunately ended up with all 3, as they got out of it, but i STILL have my 462 Poncho......BEST thing was (since we're all good buds) i offered to buy them out, since i was gonna be the only dude needing them, and they both declined!!!
...they just said "have it".......smart move, good friends, AWESOME!!!!......this first instalment on the "series" is EXACTLY what shud be gone over for the newby!!!.....EXCELLENT job sir!!!....PEACE to you!!
Great video! I started in the early eighties, wit just the basics. I wish there was something like this when I started. I’ve done well for myself, and tried to share my experiences with others, but it seems like us old school folks are a dying breed. I’m so happy to see this kinda stuff being put out there to hopefully bring a newer generation into this hobby that we are so passionate about. To me, it’s always been about making the most out of what you got, and if you can throw some money into it, it’s all that much better! I love the old school way!! 👍
Another helpful tip I found that works is beer needs to be on ice for 30-45 minutes before you get started. It's for the best.
Several magnetic treys , sandwich baggies painters tape to bag and label things little piece of tape and a quick note on some under hood wires goes a long way
Reminder for things like dampener puller, you can also rent those at auto parts stores as part of their loaner programs
There probably won't be a ridge or issues beyond new pistons, rings and a deglaze in the bores. I usually get the '96-up pistons to use the lighter/less drag metric ring pack. The later main bearing bolts and "girdle" strap is a nice addition if you have access to a late core. The head is probably cracked (like Magnum heads) which WILL run, but for the expense of valve work/guides, etc., the Promaxx new head with hardened seats starts looking good. I used an Ebay oversize throttle body on my '95 Grand Cherokee, it was cheap and made a noticeable improvement, the new butterfly the same size as the manifold and gasket (noticeably bigger than the original throttle body!). I also used 4-hole injectors and my MPG went up almost 2mpg with a cleaner idle. The "horseshoe" late intake is really no overall gain over the log intake, so I leave whatever they come with on the engine.
Baggies marked with a Sharpie (won't bleed and blur) for various nuts & bolts. Box/bag of rags. I like the ones made from T-shirts. A few 5-gal buckets for cleaning parts. Also, take photos as you disassemble to be a guide when you go back together... linkages, etc. And the first engine I rebuilt was in the gravel driveway. The block stayed in the car. Hey, I was poor and alone doing this. I had a few friends that were mechanics for my workplace giving me some guidance.
I have pulled many engine trans combos and done several engine swaps with a set of chain falls chained to a tree in the back yard. Hooked the hook to a chain that was connected the front and rear of the block on the tops of the heads.
The core engine is the way I like to do it. I have no garage and built my last 2 350s in my tool shed. You can take your time with it and the car/truck only had 2 days of downtime (I do everything alone). I also don't pull the trans which makes things easy....but I'll remember to check the condition of the trans mount next time LOL
Former professional mechanic here, suggestions no doubt overlapping many already posted.
Yeah, what he said about clean and well organized. Clean parts are easier to inspect for problems. During engine long block reassembly, keep it surgically clean inside.
Also no such thing as too much lighting, including handheld. As others mentioned, take more photos and video than you think you'll need. Label and photograph everything like you won't get back to it for months (because you never know when you might not). Also take lots of written or typed notes as you go.
Do NOT use gasoline as a cleaning solvent! That stuff is way too flammable/explosive! I don't like using acetone for the same reason. Also they're both really bad for your skin. Use detergent & water, mineral spirits, or diesel and a big metal oil drain pan for parts cleaning. Keep a fire extinguisher handy.
Organize small parts in zip-lock baggies. Label them by tossing an index card in the bag.
RTFM! Get and study the factory service manual for whatever you're working on. If cost is a problem, spend some time searching the WWW for a PDF version.
A usable workbench doesn't have to be expensive. A couple folding sawhorses, some plywood atop a hollow core door for stiffness. Also easily stored flat. However, if you need a bench vise, you need a real workbench.
For measuring tools, I would add a set of feeler (thickness) gauges, a dial indicator kit, maybe a micrometer or two, and a surface plate. A literal plate of thick glass is better than nothing. A window glass shop may be able to help with a large scrap. You'll know better what you need after you RTFM.
Craig's List and Facebook Marketplace are goldmines for tools and parts, especially big ticket items. Used but working air compressors for 1/4 price of new. I paid maybe $25 for a 4-caster engine stand (avoid the cheaper 3-wheel version - they tip). I got my like new engine hoist for free plus the cost of a new hydraulic cylinder ($50). I picked up a few thousand $ of SBF stock & performance parts for around $750 from a guy who was clearing out his garage after a major car project. If you have time and a truck, check estate sales for great deals on entire tool sets.
Holy crap this is getting long!😮
So this is my first post on your show I've been watching the show for over a year and I am kind of one of those new guys even though I have worked on cars off and on my whole life I like to do it myself and I'm glad that you're doing this new series even if I done a motor before there's still stuff for me to learn and to be honest with you I find your show fantastic one of the best places to learn and understand and really get it better understanding and I know there's going to be a lot of guys out there but something as simple as a hydraulic lifter I had a hard time with which is kind of ridiculous but it's the truth and I accomplished it and learned from it but I've learned so much from you and I just want to say thank you.
I planned ahead a week to do my motor swap. Had old motor out before noon and new motor installed and all hooked up by 3pm. Made a check list and had gathered all the tools needed. Me and 1 guy found out after it was his first time pulling a motor. Planning made all the difference
A friend of mine has an XJ that he built as a stock class mud racer. Since you have to keep the revs up and the tires spinning during mud runs, he's forever popping engines. He has those 4.0 engine swaps down to a science!
My personal best "war story" is from having to replace the oil pump and main bearings in the 454 in my tow rig. I had to do it in the parking lot of a cheap no-tell motel in Michigan on the way home from US-131. I did pull the engine for a proper inspection and refresh once I got home but, the truck got me, the race car and the trailer home safe.
Re: Engine stands, get a 4 wheeler like Tony has there, not the 3 wheel version, especially if you intend to move it with the engine on. Ask me how I know this is bad.
You're definitely going to need a piston ring compressor, and I would recommend some plastigauge as well. You can get by without a ring expander, probably, but they are pretty cheap.
I’ve put countless rings on and I’ve never touched a ring expander
I’ve seen someone snap a new ring with one tho
@@fastinradfordable what method do you use instead? just curious, I'm getting ready to do a Ford 5.0 V8 in an 89 Mustang
Dollar General, Dollar Tree, Family Dollar all sell a de-greaser "Totally Awesome". Its the best de-greaser/cleaner Ive ever used and its so cheap you can recklessly pour it everywhere. Even works great in a carpet shampooer. Keeping organized is key, a bolt bin is a must. I also like to have a meticulous floor before I start b/c you'll be dropping tiny bolts and such...so much easier to find on a clean floor.
I just wanted to say this as an actual engine builder by trade. If you are going about this with the intent of having newbies tackle this project for the first time Make sure you clarify the difference between whether you doing a actual rebuild or a refresh and repair they are definitely not the same thing If all you were doing is pulling the engine to fix the problem and putting it back together that doesn't necessarily constitute a rebuild a true rebuild would have things like bearings rings most of the time Pistons and of course all new gaskets cylinder heads will be valve job usually with new guides or liners installed and obviously valve seals. A traditional rebuild will usually involve boring or honing the block possibly decking the block and most certainly typically decking the heads This is what I think most people think of when they think of a rebuilt engine. I'm not knocking anything you said in this video and I appreciate all your videos but I think it's important to be very clear in the words you use for newbies to understand Love the channel keep up the good work
So very true!
It had been over 35 years since I'd done a true complete rebuild.
It was embarrassing how much I had forgotten.
I have refreshed engines, I have swapped cams, replaced bearings (while engine was still in the vehicle) I've done heads/valves. Timing gear sets ETC.
But doing a complete rebuild, dealing with the machine shop, waiting on the right parts, cleaning, measuring everything ETC. Is a lot more involved (and tedious) than even the most involved "repair".
👍😁
Tony really brings a lot to the table. I hope he is able to share his insights and experiences for years to come.
On thing that I think you can't have enough of in a garage/work shop, especially when doing a big project like an engine rebuild, is tables or shelves. I find working on anything to be so much easier if you aren't having to walk around parts or piling stuff on top of other stuff. I have a few cheap folding tables that I keep around for projects that I take out if I'm doing something like that. I think it helps keep me "in the zone".
Spot on! ANYTHING you can set up as a table, a piece of plywood on top of a pair of saw horses, etc, is really helpful. I actually like these newer folding plastic tables, because they are easy to stow away when you don't need it and easy to pop up and move around when needed.
On big jobs I use a cart just for that project, so I know every bolt that came out gets back in.
I use a folding table, I can set it where needed and keep everything in order.
I pick up card tables people throw out.
I recall my first time pulling an AMC engine .
We had the whole thing ready to come out , except , it would not .
It is late on a Saturday night .
After trying everything except sacrificing a virgin ( we had supply chain issues then , too ) , I discover that what we thought were alignment dowels we're in fact , 2 , 3/8 Allen bolts .
Off I went on a mad dash to find a 3/8 Allen wrench , ending up at a Kmart right before closing .
I did not find a 3/8 Allen wrench , but did find a 3/8 drive socket with a 3/8 Allen key brake tool .
It worked fine and we got the old 401 out without any more drama .
Having pulled and installed dozens of Ford and Chevy engines by that time , I thought I was ready for most anything , and a mad dash to Kmart in desperate search of a tool just before closing time , was the farthest thing from my mind .
Definitely do your homework , especially since it is a helluva lot easier these days .
Zip lock bags- and Sharpe
I can't emphasize enough how the fantastic exploded drawings in the parts catalogs were a fantastic aid together with the factory service manual for your specific vehicle to help me as a newby. Chuck in Florida.
Definitely worth the time and money for me.
Shop manuals! I get both a hard copy (book) and a CD. The book is easier to flip through, and I only use it with clean hands prior to the job. Then I print out the critical pages from the CD to review while doing the job. Those pages are throw aways, so I don't care what I spill on them. All the while the book stays clean enough to read in bed.
My God...an automotive expert explaining the reason for the need to do research before starting a project!
You, sir, are the Unicorn amongst braggarts.
This is the best content on the internet. Thank you uncle Tony
The timing of this is perfect. I bout a 260Z last spring that runs, but really needs the motor rebuilt. I have been watching different videos, but you are the most ‘real’ you-tuber mechanic out there and always great to learn from. Thank you. I look forward to getting through your series.
Measuring tools and torque wrenches are critical, don't forget a shop manual
This is going to be great. Especially for me. I was just switching over from 2 years as a Caterpillar mechanic to a Chrysler/Ford mechanic when a serious error in judgment cost me everything. Now I'm starting over with basic hand tools and a $1400 Dodge pickup with a roached 4.7 which will be built outside in the dirt with railroad ties for a floor. And an elm tree for an engine hoist.
We listen intently, Uncle Tony.
Junkyard as a classroom is a good point. About 10 years ago I had a mint 92 Camry that I had to replace a window regulator on. I paid my $2 entry to the local upull it, and took the door panel off. I found all the screws and found out how to not break all the plastic panels and clips. I then went home and fixed mine without breaking anything. Best $2 I ever spent
Along with the recommendation of photos, A suggestion is have a large piece of cardboard and lay out all bolts in the order of removal and add a label on the cardboard. I always prefer to attempt to put the bolts back in the same place removed such as head bolts, push rods, rocker arms and so forth. It is difficult to place fasteners with the part removed because of cleaning and so forth. The common practice of randomly remove fasteners and using valve covers as fastener storage causes confusion, missing bolts and trying to figure out which bolt is suppose to be for what purpose. Some are very obvious but accessory bolts can be confusing as to the original location.
Hammer and a blow torch. Heat up and crack open old nuts and bolts before you round them up or break them. There can be thread lock applied, or simple rust/oxidation in practically every bolt on your mystery project. Heat and impact brakes all of them loose. Wire brush on a dedicated power drill is also a nice special tool to have on hand.
This is exactly why buying an older cheaper vehicle and working on it yourself is awesome, fulfilling and just plain out. Fun because you get to go to junk yards and pick at other ones just like yours and you can take things from there that yours doesn't have. You know cuz there's a bunch of them sitting in junk yards and there's a hundred thousands of millions of parts everywhere. It's so much better than having a modern new late model that you have to bring back to the dealer to get updated or the software done because the brakes are a little touchy in reverse like that's ridiculous.... You don't have to go off with their telling you. You can go off what the people are telling you because the vehicle's been out there in people's hands getting wrenched on not just the dealership especially when it's about 15 20 years later
Getting all the parts laid out in order is my go to and I don’t start a tear down until I’ve got my rebuild kit in
Chipping in to buy stuff like that is good until one of the guys just doesn't take any care of the things that he only partly owns and it is retrieved from him missing a lot of paint and crusted with grease and dirt.
The problem with buying your own can be bad as well as there are many who just expect you to loan it to them long term. The worst is when they just go ahead and loan your stuff to others, who you don't know, without bothering to ask first. I once had to visit 5 different places to retrieve a floor jack which went through several iterations of that.
Ever since that I no longer loan tools. You need to fix it, bring it here and I will help you out. Just make sure there is some cold beer for when we finish.
‼️Hey Tony‼️I did a 4.0 in a 2000 grand Cherokee I got an engine out of a wrangler and the bosses on the block for the engine mount were completely different! I had to make mounts and had to leave off the ac compressor. I don’t know what yours it out of but it might be worth comparing.
I’ve been walking around yards since I was a teen so I could learn about cars.
I’d pull things apart in the yard to figure out what to do before hand, so I wouldn’t mess up something up on my cars.
I will still go to the yards to figure things out, take measurements for cross compatibility, modifying, testing ideas.
Zip lock bags and a note inside, masking tape to write on wire connectors and a number of photographs. We don't have to use a "Photo-Mat" anymore and perhaps a buddy just to help put the bolts in the motor mounts! Other than a floor jack & block of 2 X 4 under trans and pans to catch fluid. Don't forget a pizza and a cold 12 pack to grease the helper! Cross your fingers on broken bolts but a metric Tap & Die set is handy. And always write down the VIN and production date and take the old part in a pair of grocery bags to the parts store as 1 or every 3 parts you but are going to be wrong, wether it's a 3 mile round trip or 22 mile trip to the parts store. It will add up and waste time. And stay positive!
DK, ASE Master Tech since 78, retired.
Ziploc bags, colored paint pens, a sharpie, and a big piece of cardboard.
Draw the rough shape of the engine on the cardboard. When you take a component or series of similar components (like rockers) off the engine, put all the hardware that goes with it in a ziploc bag, write the name of the part on the bag, and mark it with one of the paint pens.
Go back to the cardboard and use the same paint pen or at least the sharpie to label where the component came from.
You can also use the paint pen to mark two parts that go together, like hoses or pipes, so it's clear how they interface.
Keeping things organised as they come apart is #1 if this is your first rodeo. You wouldn't be the first person to half put an engine together and either have to start again or give up and take it to a shop.
If you have the engine apart for rebuild, doing basic upgrades is easy and you end up with a better more reliable engine. Things like a steel shim head gasket on an all iron engine for more compression, an RV cam for more torque, you're going to need a new cam anyway and they work well with stock valvetrain. A basic two plane aluminum intake to match the cam and better breathing.
I have always used the junk yard to learn how to get the parts off and how they go back together. Better to break those plastic clips and break the odd wire there than on your own vehicle.
I worked at an engine reconditioners for about 9 years & our engine builder never used an engine stand (Maybe 5-6 times!) Always built them on a steel bench. He would drop the crank in & then stand the engine on it's end & slide the pistons on horizontally! Kept his area spotless though.
First timers: you are probably going to break something - go ahead, and forgive yourself now and know a number of extras will make your project take longer than you might expect - for sure something in the nuts & bolts department will need attention and slow things down. My first engine, I had a really rusted snout on the torque converter - just locked into the crank. In taking a six foot prybar to persuade them apart...bent the flexplate ever so slightly without knowing it. I only spotted it during the rebuild as I was degreeing in the new cam. Not too expensive a mistake, as dumb things go. So on went a new one, and of course the rebuild had the counterbore in the crank cleaned and lubed up when it was time to bolt the transmission back in.
Tags, label stickers, colored zip ties- whatever it takes to label wires, hoses etc. Lots of zip lock bags for small parts, bolts, nuts and washers-and label them Good lighting
Hey Tony a couple of things. Never trust a guy with a rock crawler jeep these guys like torch and welders as part of there rebuilds...LOL also a factory service manual is the way to go If you can get one...lastly the number 1 thing to remember is SAFTY... Never Never get under anything that is not safely supported many people have been killed because they were in a hurry....TAKE YOUR TIME...WORK SAFE...
I just wanted to suggest for the hot rod motor put a 4.2 l crank in it make a stroker I wanted to do that when I had my CJ
2 boxes of zip lock bags, sandwich size and gallon size, and a big magic marker.
Bag of multi colored zip ties to color map connections. Use the black ones for general purpose holding.
5 or 6 cardboard boxes to cleanly store various stuff like the starter, etc.
I'm about to start a cummins swap, my first ever. Can't wait to see the rest of this series!
Awesome, I am gathering the parts to cummins swap my 73 Winnebago.
When in the Philippines you see all kinds of Big truck repairs done alongside of road. There’s a sugar cane plant in our town (wife’s family house) and it gets overloaded trucks from the 40s 24/7 during harvest. One of these trucks broke in middle of intersection. It sat there 5-6 days while they pulled engine out using cut trees and a bunch of guys. Rebuilt engine right there put it back in started up and drove away! Leaving a huge oil slick in the middle of intersection that took about a month to wear off.
THIS video series is needed. Thank you!
I take a big piece of cardboard and push each fastener in (mimicking they shape they came off a part), along with the part name and order it came off. Along with pictures, you can just follow the steps in reverse order with fasteners in the right orientation.
(if a nut can be left on a stud, part, etc, i leave it attached and just mark on the cardboard that it’s on the part)
I’m guilty of always making a mess, always spilling something, so I went the cheap route and kept a bag of cat litter around, it worked pretty good at absorbing most spills and you can buy it almost anywhere.
Great video man. Your advice is spot on.
I'd add a good light (4' fluorescent?) overhead so you can see things clearly. On old filthy engines a wash tank of sorts, I cut up some old tank it worked. Also, I think a wire wheel and safety glasses to a major help.
Thank you for talking about the service Manuel it explains for the younger members the in and outs
2 words, digital camera. Takes lots and lots of pictures, take pictures of parts coming apart. Take pictures of wire connections both together and apart. If in doubt on anything snap pictures as you disassemble it. Those pictures will gives you something to refer back to if you get confused. Nowadays we have phones with cameras that make it even easier.
I pulled the engine on my first car twice in the early 90's. I rented the engine hoist, engine stand, and ring tools for a reasonable price. Don't know if you can do that these days. One of my mistakes was not keeping track of which piston came from which bore and mixing up the caps. The engine had a severe vibration above 4000 RPM after that. Many other mistakes were made like failing to address the cause of the original failure, which was a weak oil pump, leading to ruined camshaft bearings, which ultimately caused the camshaft to snap in half. Once assembled, I ran the car for a good 5 minutes with zero oil pressure waiting not knowing how long it would take for the lifters to quiet. This led to the engine coming out again about 2 years later for fresh bearings. When I went to put the timing gear back on the cam shaft, I grabbed the wrong bolts (which were too long) and ran them through the front of the camshaft and up against the block. All it took was about a half turn on the torque wrench to snap the front of that camshaft off. Good times!
The first time I pulled a transmission, I found a friend who was doing a trans swap that way if something broke it was on there car not mine I used their project to build confidence took 2 days and learnt a lot then I did mine in like an hour then put the new one in then next day
Good video and good series! I've done a lot of this stuff over the years off and on, but there is always new things to learn or at least be reminded of.
Yup, I'm just finishing up a complete teardown and rebuild. I've done a bunch of "refresh" type stuff, but it's been over 35 years since I've done a full fledged rebuild. It was a bit embarrassing how much I had forgotten.
🙄
Coffee cans are your friends, especially with lids. You can label the lid, put nuts and bolts in the can, add the cleaner of your choice (simple green, purple power, etc) snap the lid on and let the cleaner do all the dirty work while you focus on other areas of the engine teardown.
One thing I like and should remember to do more often is lay out the sockets and wrenches I think I will use most often. I've made the mistake of dragging out my new 199 piece Harbor Fright tool set only to get tools scattered everywhere when I only needed a few them. Also make it easier to pick up and clean up after you're done.
Is the project going to be a classic with SAE nuts and bolts or a later model with metric fasteners? No need to bring out both sets of tools.
Clear out a place around the work area. Once disassembly starts you'll be stepping over and around parts as it gets torn down.
Get a decent light. Doesn't need to be anything expensive but it could come in handy looking for wires and things between the firewall and engine.
Pay attention to gaskets as you tear it down. Was sealant used and where? Both sides or one? It helps to make a note so you don't get lost putting it back together
Save videos and documents to your phone if possible so you can refer to them quickly if you get stuck.
And don't forget rags and hand cleaner. You'll need them when you have to go pee or eat lunch.
Can't wait to watch, hope yous had a great Christmas and wishing yous a great and prosperous New Year
Excellent video. I know what I'm doing but I still go back to these types of videos because it's absolutely worth getting the knowledge and points of view from more experienced gear heads.
On a side note. To me Jeep friends (I own a ZJ and an MJ), I refuse to refer to the Cherokee as an XJ.
The XJ is a Jaguar.
About 5 years ago I had to change out a trashed cam in my 89 XJ. Had a Haynes book that laid out the procedure pretty well. Bit of a pain in the wazoo, but no big deal. Worst problem was a totally hammered lifter, it had decided it was going to spend the next melinia in that block. Finally worked it out ( without destroying the bore) but was about to get out the explosives and declare war.
Awesome information brother, looking forward to this. Refreshing time.
@Uncle Tony's Garage the only thing you missed was don't throw out the old gaskets until you're done. You may need them to compare the new ones to. Also check the pistons really well on that motor, id even recommend replacing them. I've seen a few of them crack where the wrist pin goes in. It's something with just late 4.0s. I did a motor for my friends 02 grand Cherokee and wound up getting a low mile 98 engine thinking I could help him, everything was different, so we swapped the pistons and rods into his block and got the cylinder with the broken piston sleeved.
Cardboard helps to keep things clean and won't mark metal surfaces and you bin it when done
When I started working on my dodge the junk yard is where I learned to pull the motor apart was super happy to find out i didnt need to mess with the distributor to pull the intake best thing dodge did for the 360 magnum
Great advice, as always. My first step before any job is to sit down with the factory service manual and read through the entire repair. I envision each step, taking care to understand what's supposed to happen (it's not always clear). If there's a special tool shown, I make sure I have the tool or have a workaround plan in place (preferably 2, depending on the complexity of the tool). I take note of any steps that might present special challenges, like odd angles or space limitations. Often I'll go look at the car to get this info. When I'm completely done with the manual, I'll look at TH-cam vids and read discussion board threads. Most of the time, however, that once or twice read through the manual is all I need. Thanks for your great work, Tony!
Love that you’re doing this series with the 4.0! I used to help my dad with any simple automotive work but the first time I ever really got my hands dirty was on this motor. So easy to work on and they’re essentially bulletproof!
Great basics to start out with.
Great FYI video for those just getting started. Keep it coming U T👍
Those jeeps are super nice to build. I just built the motor in my 92 without even pulling it out of the jeep in my driveway.
I've changed timing chains in a Ford explorer with SOHC 4.0 in the street in front of my buddy's house lol. If anyone here know about that job, then you know how that went. P.S. if you use two 4" crescent wrenches and 2 precision cut blocks of wood you don't need the $300 Ford tool to set the timing. My butt puckered when I hit the key after that job.
Ken...wait until you see tomorrows video! Thanks for the idea
@@UncleTonysGarage always looking forward to your videos UT!
Good stuff, U tube and the people who contribute are great ! My first port of call if I haven’t tackled a job previously 👍
Great video, you're really in your element, gonna be a great series
New belts and hose's and clamps. Also a transmission lineup tool if standard.Extra hand,if you can get one.
I'm prepping to swap a motor in my ford ranger. This series is coming up at the perfect time, it'll be my first time pulling a motor.
The 4.0 is one of the best engines built. XJ's are pretty easy to work on everything is pretty easy to get to . Compared to the new cars there's no comparison. I have owned one since 2006.
UTG you’re right! Do your homework. Gather your tools. Work clean! Great advice! This is one durable engine! I have a little experience but this is great choice! ❤️💪🏾
Episode 1. So far so good. I can check off all the items on your equipment must haves except for a clean shop. Got some tidying up to do this spring.
Man I love your videos, always look forward to that notification.
I suggest getting a Chilton's manual for your vehicle, it will have all the engine specs and torque specs descriptions on how to take it apart and put back together plus pictures. They also have everything else about your vehicle and wireing diagrams so they come in handy for other things that come up.
You nailed it
Awesome idea for a series, you tube is great for info….all I can think to add for newbies is if at anytime unsure of something, stop and research it for 10 minutes, don’t guess or let time rule you……..first you get good…then you get fast……my first service manager told me that when I was apprentice in the 80’s
Once a mechanic uses a digital caliper it will seem a necessary tool to most. For that reason I would suggest upgrading from a harbor freight tool.
Something I'm STILL trying to learn - Before you pick something up, know where you're going to put it down. Nothing like picking up a greasy drippy head, then turning around and trying to make room on the bench for it so you can put it down without knocking your new calipers on the floor.