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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- This is one of the reasons you don't hang 1/2 in drywall without proper backing on 24in studs, some builders and subcontractors are not out for a quality product just for the $$$. If you come across this tell the builder and if it is not fixed your warranty for those areas is voided.
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You should add to the title, “unless the ceiling joists are 16 inches apart”
24” trusses should have strapping. The trusses are going to move too much for straight Sheetrock. I’m with this guy. If you’re going to cheap out and do it cause it’s lighter. At least throw a little liquid nail to save everyone the trouble
Ok. Construction adhesive on the beams? What happens if u have to replace some of the glued sheet rock?
@@1Aplease you cut it out and replace it. It’s a standard practice to glue Sheetrock. You don’t see as often in remodels or smaller residential homes but in commercial buildings and larger higher end homes is very common. It allows less screws and helps with screw pops. I said liquid nail above but that’s not usually what’s used. I was making making the point that if he wasn’t going to add strapping he should at least use an adhesive to help with all the deflection from the trusses
So this explains why all the seams in my garage are messed up.. thanks for the info. Now to find a good contractor 🤦🏾♂️😂
I'd probably either use nailers so that there's an edge to secure it to, and/or go with 1/4" boards so that gravity has less to pull down to begin with.
The more blocking the better.screws around the boarders always works.
5/8 is 1/8 over 1/2 . Don't u need more support to start with? Seems to me 1/8 thicker rock still needs extra support. Why is it 24" and not 16" on center or strapping for support?
Not understanding. Thank u
Literally just saved me from mistake I was about to make today at job I sold
Doesn’t matter 1/2 or 5/8 if you have nailers and it’s screwed to it. This videos treats the symptom but not the peoblem
Thank you.
Unless you strap the ceiling first or add strapping/blocking where the edges meet to add additional fastener strength. 5/8 board, while a little more ridged may not solve the problem in this instance.
5/8" drywall is code in résidentielle and commercial dwellings for ceilings always because its fire retardant to hamper fire before it reaches the upper floors for 1hr or more , ,,,,,,,,
That's what I always understood also
5/8” gyp in RC1 at 16” OC , right?
Getting ready to DIY….
1/2" ultralight is rated for ceilings on 24" center's
Indeed! As long as its run perpendicular to rafters and fastened properly.
And what everyone else is saying, strapping. The guy missed it on this one.
I thought so. All weight needs good support. Gravity is a beast.
True that.... strapping is important tho..good stuff
STRAPPING IS A BEAUTIFUL THING😊
Yeah this I always strap ceillings.
OSB, table saw and a framing nailer. Cheap and ads maybe 2-3 minutes of labor per finished sheet
Makes life hella easy when you want to do upgrade for either lights or home theatre system
I have a metal roof that has no rafters at all, and has rigid foamboard insulation that is not covered or even painted. How would I go about making this fireproof because if this catches fire from our bad electric, were gonna be toast. It burns hot, dirty, and quick! I have thought of putting fireproofing paint on it and then covering it with glued on wool felt or painting it with thinned out concrete. Would these work to make it safer? Its in my living room so its pretty important. There are no wood boards in this ceiling, its all metal with foam glued.
I'd fix the bad electric first!
Done plenty 1/2”lids on2’ never had problem
Good info, that makes sense
What lol I use to hang 1/2 inch drywall all the time on ceilings only time we didn’t if there was a finished basement for fire resistance or the customer wanted 5/8s
House is 15 years old. All ceilingsa re 1/2" drywall. No problems until the foundation started to move. So what were you saying about it all?
If it’s framed right you don’t have that issue there has to be something there to attach it to
Dosent matter what kind of sheet you use weathered if it’s 1/2 or 5/8 if the sheets aren’t staggered when hung after a while it starts to crack and the way you tape/ mud as well
That ain’t why they didn’t screw the end of sheet down
What happens if your mom’s house was built in 1978 and the vaulted ceiling and even kitchen ceiling is cracking out? Should she replace the whole ceiling?! We tried repainting, crown molding, replacing insulation everything! Besides replacing the dry wall. So is that what we should do?😢
cracking is the result of structural movement, need to address that issue first. If your drywall is nailed then add screws for additional support, if that doesn't work then you may need to remove the ceiling to fix any structural issues.
Should only use Sag board, 5/8 is a big problem unless you’re code forces you.
Why is it a big problem?
@@HomeGrownPyro1 hang it
Ive only ever used 5/8 sheet rock on ceilings. Make a 2x4 T to hold it up
If done on 16incenters and layer horizontal.. well it works. Just not a stuff.
How ever did that they used full sheet and laid the opposite way. Thusly no support in middle at seems.. ;(
You use no coat angle on 45 angles not tape and you don’t push on the ceiling
Gracias😊
And if the taper dosent put the tape on right the joint will crack or if it doesn’t get smooth in right it can blister or if the tape dosent have enough mud it can blister as well
So how do you fix a problem? I'm having issues. Thanks
Strapping
I used 1/4 and no cracks as long as you use a good amount of compound with tape on the seams ur good but that was me
Shouldn't those boards be turned 90° so they are across as many studs as possible.
doesn't make any difference, the perimeter of the boards should be secured to a framing member.
Wow
Wouldn't you want to land on a joist?
Yeah doesn't seem to end on a joist or board.
Thats why you use strapping 16 on center. Your 48" sheets will always land half on strapping for both pieces to be screwed to. Much flatter and stronger ceilings
Seems like they just floated that piece. Shouldn't be able to flex the seam if it's on the truss.
The edges are not on a truss or strapping. Big reason here in new england we always strap our ceilings. Gives a much flatter and stronger ceiling.
Hmmm? Informative 😜
Use crown molding 😅
Whats recommended for bedroom ceiling?
Mirrors
@@justinberry3991 😆
What about resilient channel or ceiling board?
That’s not the reason, the reason is the screws . You need to use steel stud screws on wood to prevent that , and tape your joints with a extra light weight mud so it don't put to much weight on the paper. If you tape with a heavy mud it won’t hold up. The paper becomes to heavy and falls off the ceiling .use 20min hot mud in the end on the final coat. It will lock everything into place . Also don’t prefill any large openings . You need that gap for expansion and contraction . Lastly a huge tip is wetting all your drywall before you install, but don’t soak it. Just a little damp and install it so that when it shrinks up and dries, it drys around the screw. Sorta becoming one with it and locking that drywall into place . And stop staggering sheetrock . You just create way more work with all these little tiny joints everywhere . That’s just more options for the joints to crack as opposed to just one joint . Think about it 15 joints on a ceiling or 5 which one has the greater odds of cracking ..:.. feel free to ask any questions I might have not answered
Use strapping under the trusses/joists. Lay out 16" on center so all your seams land on the strapping/a nailer. Much flatter and stronger ceilings
@@jacksmith2315 my man . Great minds think alike
Wtf?
I thought 8-mile worked in a factory?
Glue the studs!
Just run strapping 16" on center for nailers