When you're winding the pistons back into the calipers you should check the brake reservoir does not overflow with the extra fluid that is being pumped back into the system. I use a syringe to suck out the excess. A useful video which has refreshed my memory for when I replace mine again this week. On past occasions I've removed the handbrake cable, following the Haynes manual instructions, good to see this is not required
Interesting comment as I have also removed the cable in the past or clamped it but found that it’s not necessary. Quite right about the reservoir if it’s been topped up from the last change. On this occasion it was fine. Thanks for watching and the feed back.
Good video, I normally add a tube on the brake fluid bleed valve, undo the bolt and let the old fluid drain out whilst winding the caliper in, this way the old fluid isn't pushed back into the system.
You can use your brake rewind tool on the front brakes too, just pop an old brake disk between the piston and the rewind tool and wind it in. Also, you can buy some small wire brushes (they look like over sized toothbrushes) to clean the crud from the brake hardware clips and the caliper bracket behind the clips to prevent rust jacking.
Yours is either a mk4.5 or mk5 Mondeo. I can’t say for sure if it is the same but I would expect it to be. Having a ridge lip is not necessarily a problem what is a problem is if the discs have got to a minimum thickness and need replacing. I believe the minimum is 22mm on the front and 10.2mm on the rear. Replacing is easy enough. Remove the calliper and they slip off. To measure the thickness have a look at the video I did on my motorbike front discs.
@@NigelEaland thanks for your reply. I have changed brakes on the mrk3 . I have seen a video on the mrk 5 where the rear caliper returns on auto from plugged into the ecu. Maintenance mode. I think the mrk 5 is 2015. Mine is the 2013 version. Hopefully will be the same as your car in the video. Thanks again.
Jack up on the sills. First apply handbrake or put bricks either side of a wheel. This video demonstrates quite nicely th-cam.com/video/bhdFrfNcHP0/w-d-xo.html. Thanks for watching.
I haven’t for some years. There was a time when either anti squeal shims were fitted or you could use copper slip. I find brake pads don’t squeal anymore, so I don’t bother. It also saves the possibility of contaminating the pads with grease. That’s the way I do it.
Or remove both rear wheels, remove handbrake cable from calipers and then play back an front with that leaver all the way. After that put your cables back and your hand brake should be tight. This procedure works also when your handbrake doesnt work at all.
... the sheets from the holder must be removed to clean with a brush (remove corrosion - holder and sheets). The sheets receive some lubricant (for the pads), so it is safe to have later the correct function ... If these works are not done the result is by accident due to the situation for corrosion and later abrasion can be one-sided for the brake pads. Ok even a garage mostly does the job not good enough ... there is time and effort necessary - but else the result s not good enough! Front axle similar and for the piston better use the right tool! No recommendation to work as shown - sorry for!
When you're winding the pistons back into the calipers you should check the brake reservoir does not overflow with the extra fluid that is being pumped back into the system. I use a syringe to suck out the excess. A useful video which has refreshed my memory for when I replace mine again this week. On past occasions I've removed the handbrake cable, following the Haynes manual instructions, good to see this is not required
Interesting comment as I have also removed the cable in the past or clamped it but found that it’s not necessary. Quite right about the reservoir if it’s been topped up from the last change. On this occasion it was fine. Thanks for watching and the feed back.
Good video, I normally add a tube on the brake fluid bleed valve, undo the bolt and let the old fluid drain out whilst winding the caliper in, this way the old fluid isn't pushed back into the system.
You are not complicated and very down to Earth !
Top job as always nidge a great diy mechanic love watching your vids have the same car always doing the same jobs.
You can use your brake rewind tool on the front brakes too, just pop an old brake disk between the piston and the rewind tool and wind it in. Also, you can buy some small wire brushes (they look like over sized toothbrushes) to clean the crud from the brake hardware clips and the caliper bracket behind the clips to prevent rust jacking.
Great video. Very helpful!
Helpful video. Is this the same as my 2013 mondeo. 2.0 tdci. My discs on the rear have a ridge lip. From the pads also.. .
Yours is either a mk4.5 or mk5 Mondeo. I can’t say for sure if it is the same but I would expect it to be. Having a ridge lip is not necessarily a problem what is a problem is if the discs have got to a minimum thickness and need replacing. I believe the minimum is 22mm on the front and 10.2mm on the rear. Replacing is easy enough. Remove the calliper and they slip off. To measure the thickness have a look at the video I did on my motorbike front discs.
@@NigelEaland thanks for your reply. I have changed brakes on the mrk3 . I have seen a video on the mrk 5 where the rear caliper returns on auto from plugged into the ecu. Maintenance mode. I think the mrk 5 is 2015. Mine is the 2013 version. Hopefully will be the same as your car in the video. Thanks again.
Great video , I just purchased a G clamp for $10 a lot cheaper than the specific tool.
But heath Robinson
The footwear is not safe. You should have worn a pair of socks with the sandals to ensure extra protection
@Jack Warner The sarcastic kind
Can it be done without this special tool?
It’s hard without it and it only cost £9 on Amazon.
Could you please show us where correctly place jacks in front and back of your Mondeo ?
Jack up on the sills. First apply handbrake or put bricks either side of a wheel. This video demonstrates quite nicely th-cam.com/video/bhdFrfNcHP0/w-d-xo.html. Thanks for watching.
how come you didnt apply copper grease to the pads?
I haven’t for some years. There was a time when either anti squeal shims were fitted or you could use copper slip. I find brake pads don’t squeal anymore, so I don’t bother. It also saves the possibility of contaminating the pads with grease. That’s the way I do it.
How can you tighten the handbrake on mk4s?
Under the car unbolt the heat shield to reveal the adjuster.
Or remove both rear wheels, remove handbrake cable from calipers and then play back an front with that leaver all the way. After that put your cables back and your hand brake should be tight. This procedure works also when your handbrake doesnt work at all.
Did you disconnect the handbrake cable before changing the pads
No. Just let the handbrake off.
15mm spanner
"Safety first" and using sandal shoes , quite a contradiction wont you say ? LOL :)
😉
... the sheets from the holder must be removed to clean with a brush (remove corrosion - holder and sheets). The sheets receive some lubricant (for the pads),
so it is safe to have later the correct function ...
If these works are not done the result is by accident due to the situation for corrosion and later abrasion can be one-sided for the brake pads.
Ok even a garage mostly does the job not good enough ... there is time and effort necessary - but else the result s not good enough!
Front axle similar and for the piston better use the right tool!
No recommendation to work as shown - sorry for!
This is so finicky, Honda's are much easier to service