Thanks for the tip on the lower oil and coolant return lines. I was hung up on this step and couldn't get those lines on. This video saved my bacon and a lot of frustration!
Great tips, thank you. Coolant hose is not that hard to mount on the block, just need the extension long enough, so when removing, just loose it on the block side instead, and keep hose with turbo, if clearance allows it. I got 600k miles on my work truck, actuator was replaced once at around 300k, but never had vanes issue, and we use engine brakes all day long, till today they are loose enough. Just get on it more often and it will thank you, but not sure that much about aftermarket turbos, I saw they have cheaper trust bearings and they don't last. I just replaced shaft and updated billet on my original he300. Will see how it goes 🤞
Instead of fighting the turbo and frame rail I removed the battery box and took lose the coolant tank. Took me 20min to do this extra step but the turbo slide right out and back in. Tomorrow I hit the return oil line and coolant line on the bottom. Just from playing with it today a bit this is going to suck bad lol.
I'm curious why go with another VGT, and not a fixed vane turbo? At some point, the actuator in this turbo will go out and you're going to be right back where you were.
Hey great video I'm about to do my turbo on a 13 2500 did you remove the oil and coolant before removing the turbo I keep hearing didn't answers thanks
if you want you can drain both, but coolant is what you drain prior to taking off the turbo. "remember you have to pre-lube the turbo prior to reinstalling it" through the oil connection hole that sits besides the transmission connection hole on top of the turbo. .. Oil change is recommended also when reinstalling & check the oil feed line to make sure it's free of carb build up.
Thanks for the video. I'm about to tackle this job. Did you have to remove the lines or just take the tranny line clamps loose and move them out of the way? Don't want to lose any Trans fluid and make a bigger mess lol
@@toddvaught6587 Thanks, yeah I ended up removing the battery box and it made things much easier. I'll tell ya what that coolant and oil drain lines were awful. Lol
Todd, RE: lower oil drain line removal, I listened several times -- you disconnected it before removing the old turbo FROM THE TURBO or FROM THE BLOCK? Then you reattached it and the coolant line to the new turbo? How did you get the left from stud out of the manifold? I had to heat up all the nuts with an oxy torch just to get them off. (Still working on getting my old turbo out of the 2011 truck.)
Just seen this video and it’s the only one I’ve found with emissions still installed. You didn’t have to remove EGR? And you removed the turbo through the wheel well or from the top?
Surprised you need to replace the turbo already. My 05 5.9 is still running the original. I wonder why ram decided to go with an exhaust brake instead of a compression brake. Seems like the exhaust brake is just killing turbos
Thanks for the tip on the lower oil and coolant return lines. I was hung up on this step and couldn't get those lines on. This video saved my bacon and a lot of frustration!
Great tips, thank you. Coolant hose is not that hard to mount on the block, just need the extension long enough, so when removing, just loose it on the block side instead, and keep hose with turbo, if clearance allows it. I got 600k miles on my work truck, actuator was replaced once at around 300k, but never had vanes issue, and we use engine brakes all day long, till today they are loose enough. Just get on it more often and it will thank you, but not sure that much about aftermarket turbos, I saw they have cheaper trust bearings and they don't last. I just replaced shaft and updated billet on my original he300. Will see how it goes 🤞
Great tips thanks, mine just went out
Instead of fighting the turbo and frame rail I removed the battery box and took lose the coolant tank. Took me 20min to do this extra step but the turbo slide right out and back in. Tomorrow I hit the return oil line and coolant line on the bottom. Just from playing with it today a bit this is going to suck bad lol.
Great vid, thank you!
I'm curious why go with another VGT, and not a fixed vane turbo? At some point, the actuator in this turbo will go out and you're going to be right back where you were.
@@toddvaught6587 I completely understand.
only benefit of VGT is built in engine-brake for towing ..
Hey great video I'm about to do my turbo on a 13 2500 did you remove the oil and coolant before removing the turbo I keep hearing didn't answers thanks
if you want you can drain both, but coolant is what you drain prior to taking off the turbo. "remember you have to pre-lube the turbo prior to reinstalling it" through the oil connection hole that sits besides the transmission connection hole on top of the turbo. .. Oil change is recommended also when reinstalling & check the oil feed line to make sure it's free of carb build up.
Thanks for the video. I'm about to tackle this job. Did you have to remove the lines or just take the tranny line clamps loose and move them out of the way? Don't want to lose any Trans fluid and make a bigger mess lol
@@toddvaught6587
Thanks, yeah I ended up removing the battery box and it made things much easier. I'll tell ya what that coolant and oil drain lines were awful. Lol
Thanks for the video. I just ordered an ATS VFR 3000 for my 2008 6.7 Cummins 2500. Are you still loving yours?
Still running strong.
Thanks for the video and tips! Were you able to provide a 4k - 5k mile review of the ATS Aurora?
Is there a huge difference between the ATS and The Fleece Cheetah?
Todd, RE: lower oil drain line removal, I listened several times -- you disconnected it before removing the old turbo FROM THE TURBO or FROM THE BLOCK? Then you reattached it and the coolant line to the new turbo? How did you get the left from stud out of the manifold? I had to heat up all the nuts with an oxy torch just to get them off. (Still working on getting my old turbo out of the 2011 truck.)
I got lucky and removed the stud with a torch. Couldn't get it with the stud in place. Maybe someone else has figured out another method.
Would you recommend a bully dog turbo? I have a 2014 ram 2500. I have the same issue you did. I'm still driving it without a turbo
So you took your turbo apart to clean it? Then installed but it didn’t work or what exactly?
Thanks
Just seen this video and it’s the only one I’ve found with emissions still installed. You didn’t have to remove EGR? And you removed the turbo through the wheel well or from the top?
It came out the wheel well.
Good video, did you have to calibrate the turbo actuator or was it just bold on?
It came calibrated. Bolt on part.
Surprised you need to replace the turbo already. My 05 5.9 is still running the original. I wonder why ram decided to go with an exhaust brake instead of a compression brake. Seems like the exhaust brake is just killing turbos
@@toddvaught6587 could be. Agreed, cant beat a 5.9.
Exactly .. the vgt seizes up from carb & soot" verses non moving parts in the 5.9 ..
Can you get the oil filter out as normal
Yes.
I'm frustrated with my truck
Did you pull the turbo out from the top or fender well ?
Fender well.
Did you drain the tyranny lines?
No...just broke loose the three retention clips...then it was able to move.
What brand is the replacement turbo you got
Looks like an ATS.
How much was that tubo?
They cost about $3k, that includes the actuator from ATS. You have a $300 core charge for turbo & actuator from them.
Did you have to pull the motor mount?
No.
Cleanable air filters will shorten the life of engine if driven on sandy roads , no more efficient than stock except extra turbo whistle .
I learned the hard way with K&N on a race engine years ago. They are cool and work okay but hey man! use an oem filter.
What brand is the replacement turbo you got
ATS
What brand is the replacement turbo you got
At 7:20 since you weren't paying attention.