Sometimes the answer to a simple problem lies right in front of you. But you are too blind to notice. That's when you know, you looked too far for the easiest answer. 😂
Now that I've watched to video, I understand why fellow mechanics are cringing at my decision to check compression first. When I was called in the glow plugs weren't working- and one or two had blown up in the hole- that is, they blew out from too much heat and pieces of them were likely to have been dropped in the cylinder where the chances of valve or cylinder damage was possible. The compression testing was done to verify we still had enough compression to make this compression ignition engine run. The way this was edited doesn't reflect all the information or the situation I had when that decision was made. Oh well. For anyone who cares, now you're aware. My apologies for the time spent cringing.
Labor rates: $45 / half hour, $65 if you watch, $85 if you already tore into it, $125 if all the above AND you're posting it on TH-cam. Just kidding. Who would do that last one? lol For anyone curious to know, the best course of action in a case like this is to crack fuel lines at the injectors and pump one at a time while cranking it if it won't start. If you've got fuel, and you have no evidence of mechanical damage to the cylinders- cover the exhaust to help compression retention and crank it. I was called in to address a known glow plug issue in the beginning (one was blown while inside the cylinder- ouch). And this was unfortunately after the engine had been desperately & extensively cranked over. Once we fixed the glow plug issue and verified the cylinder(s) had compression- the hunt for fuel led to a stuck check valve between the tank and the mechanical lift pump from sitting (original problem causing the no-start). Once that was remedied, we were at the top of the order and discovered the injector pump rotor was ground up from fuel starvation as evidenced by... you guessed it. Cracking lines open at the injectors and injector pump one at a time. By then- it was time to pursue the original intention with the Hummer... flux capacitor!
Yeah. I have a tractor and excavator and have had to do the same thing a number of times. Crap or water in the fuel tank is number 1suspect, blocked fuel filters and fuel system number 2.
I have been working on 6.5 l for almost 20 years you need to check the line that goes to the injectors Crack them loss one at a time and see if you get fuel to the injectors when you turn it over you have to prime the system 6.5 are almost bullet proof I can almost Guarantee it needs to be Primed
ahh PRIMED yes that was the term I was looking for; while watching and shaking my head at all the tests and parts being replaced. These machines are beasts that will keep running for a long time as long you take care of them (a daily/weekly task)
I've replaced a ton of this 6.2 injector pumps, you dont need to mark the timing, the gear the fuel pump bolts up to has a hole for a pin in the injector pump itself, so you can not put it in wrong, it is reltively easy, it would just be time consuming the first time you do it, you might want to get someone who knows this engines better to help you out
This is the 6.5 variant. Same concept and the timing is adjustable. Don't really need to mark it though. There are two indented lines you need to line up at first and adjust as necessary.
There are older but excellent military troubleshooting videos on TH-cam called "HMMWV Troubleshooting the Fuel System" and "HMMWV Troubleshooting Electrical System" thanks to "Everything Hummer" for posting them on TH-cam. If the guys in this video would have watched the recommended troubleshooting videos before they worked on their Hmmwv they would have saved a lot of time, money and the Hmmwv would most likely be running instead of scrapped. These videos give many ways to troubleshoot the systems quick and efficient, showing continuity and resistance checks to perform first that take the guess work out of troubleshooting the HMMWV's. This includes fast and easy checks of the glow plugs and glow plug controller. Getting the air out of the fuel lines and injector system is a common online important step/recommendation before attempting to start any diesel engine and it is part of the "HMMWV troubleshooting the fuel system" video.
I go through the same troubleshooting steps… “Of course, it’s gotta be this …” _moments later_ “Oh, well this … is definitely the problem then…” _repeat_
The glow plugs are there to aid in cold starts... a diesel runs on compressing the fuel to ignite it... also I'd bleed the fuel lines at the injectors...
So disappointing to not see it running! I started working on my first diesel during lockdown last year (with no prior experience working on vehicles) and love every minute. It’s a Land Rover, so not exactly the same, but I’d still fancy my chances if she ever stopped altogether 😅 Please have another crack at it before you ditch the engine entirely 🙏
Glad I went back and found this video to see the conclusion of the troubleshooting. Hope you have a video of when you purchased it. I am off to hunt for that now.
ask for a company that refurbishes this parts and if you can not find one in the US you will find one in europe, mainland or in Lethvia and Lithuania were they are still used to fix things over and over again back from the former soviet occupation era. Here a lot of the motor parts are being refurbished just to save money and protect the environment.
@@male07mdl a distributor injection pump is what you would find on pretty much every tractor and truck ("commercial truck" for the US people) engine behind the Iron Curtain. Even soviet military vehicles used a distributor pump diesel, unit injectors were non-existent here, this was the go-to solution for diesel injection for a looong time. Depending on how badly Zack tore up the insides of it, an old timey latvian/lithuanian disel mechanic has a better chance of rebuilding it then some hipster who's used to connecting an OBD-II dignostic and just replacing whatever modules it deems defective.
@@AKAtheA These are Stanadyne db2 rotary pumps. Any local diesel injection shop in the US should be able to work on these. They are ancient technology as you stated. Been around since the 50s.
Don't know how deep your swap will be, but i served 12 years driving trucks in the Army. A tip for your consideration. If you keep the stock coolant system it will overheat unless you unplug the connection next to the coolant reservoir. It is the the 2 prong. Unplugging it will keep the fan on constantly.
Maybe you should read your comments more. Postings from the two earlier videos all identified the fuel system as the problem. It was suggested right off that trying a shot of ether or cracking one of the injector line nuts would show right away if there was injection taking place or not. Tracing back from there would have found the cause without buying and installing all those new parts.
I have seen couple "Engine won't start video's" and people that keep trying starting the engine for more than 5 minutes always damaged or broke something. After 5 minutes check all the AIR - FUEL - POWER components, even if you find 3 plausible failures go through the full check list from A-Z number's*.
Starter & battery turn over for 5 minutes without melting. That's pretty good! Most starter motors are on the brink of meltdown after 60 seconds of cranking.
a bare HMMWV was like $70k new from AM General, and by bare I mean even the doors and roof were an optional accessory. That pricetag meant you get the good stuff and everything is overbuilt ;-)
@@AKAtheA Company I worked at rebuilt starter motors. Seen melted starter motors from trucks that cost $100-$250k used. Same 24v style used in HMMWV. Meh.
I love these. My old boss that was on the navy. Don Smith. Commerce city colorado. Would drive one of these to the company he owned. He would love talking about it. He would always say "you could fix these with a shoe string if it ever broke in the field" who knows what that means lol.
The Hummer was thinking to heal himself. But he doesn't even realised that he is gonna be transformed into an Electric Vehicle and will be remembered in the history.
I think any individual that served in the military (myself included) would love to help. I used to have this exact same problem with my HMMWV and a good can of starter fluid would always solve the issue, especially when the vehicle hadn't been driven in awhile. FYI military vehicles are meant to be driven/started daily. If you leave it to sit you will surely run into starting problems.
check you are getting fuel at the injectors , and that the fuel shut off solenoid on or near the injection pump is allowing fuel in to the high pressure pump ,. also check the tank for crap, (blow the fuel lines before the filters back to the with the tank cap off ) there should be no restriction to flow , then blow the fuel back to filters ( wrap a rag around your air blow valve push into the tank filler and short pulse of air should get the fuel back to the filters . you will need to get as much air out of the fuel system or it will not run ( air compasses fuel doesn't). bleed up to the high pressure pump then crake off all the pipes at the injectors , crank it till fuel squirts at the injectors , tighten them up , turn it over and it should fire up , it may take a while to do the above but it should /will run good luck (i am a railroad maintenance engineer) same basic engines just bigger
Before the guy showed up with ideas about compression and fuel pump, you were gonna check the injectors. When trouble shooting a motor it is outside to in. A compression test is one of the last things to do once you know everything outside is good.
That fuckin' bleeder valve! Had a PFC flip that doing a PMCS, not one the steps, he was just fuckin' around trying to figure out what it does, he left it open.
You can bypass the check valve, the fuel lift pump has one internally, probably the old lift pump was failing and letting the fuel back to the tank causing slow starts as it needed to purge the fuel system and the previous owner just installed the check valve to avoid changing the lift pump
Thank you! After watching this video, I found your root cause was the same as mine. (Fortunately, no other damage requiring other repair.) The getting to that valve is a Royale pain.
I've replaced many injector pumps on HMMWV's. It can be done in about a half a day without removing the intake manifold. This is the "field expedient method".
@@dansong3704 The injector pump is all mechanical and they rarely go out. I can only remember changing 1 that was bad due to internal component failure and not external shrapnel of some kind.
Check the PDM pump mounted Driver before replacing the entire pump it was also likely fried with the other electrical items and they tend to go out a lot on those 6.5's.
I guess you have channels all over the place! Since I just found this today and subscribed. I guess that the frustration with diesels is the driving force for your electrical conversation of this Hummer ! Glad that I found this channel and video! See ya later Zack!
Its been a long time since I worked on this in the marines but I would check the return line out of the top of the injection pump for blocked fitting with plastic if so pop out ball and spring out of bottom of fitting
Disconnect the fuel return line from the fuel return solenoid on the very front top of the injection pump and see if fuel comes out. There's another one way check valve there. Also check that wire 54a, which is one if two wires going to the pump, has battery power while starting.
Hey im car mehanic in the IDF, I work lot on humwvees, Did you check the fuel injector pump? In the middle of the engine, lot comfort getting threw the cabin, the rear engine cover.. Get the diesel Pipe out and check fuel is coming out check also the connector!
@@MohdAzylee yeah they do, but hes saying thats irrelevant to it not starting right now because of how warm it is outside. It doesnt need them to start in the middle of the summe.
Could just spray starting fluid/ether/carb/cleaner etc into the intake while cranking it. If it fires only while spraying then its a fuel delivery issue. Also, why replace the fuel pump after confirming that fuel was being pumped up to the engine bay?
The mechanical diesel engine is the easiest engine to work on. Your problem is air intrusion. If you remove the mechanical lift pump and replace it with an electric pump you won't have a priming issue again. Have you checked the return lines, all of the orings under the injectors, the feed line from the tank, fittings on the filter head, the shower head in the tank? What you should try is taking a rubber line from the lift pump directly into a can of diesel. It will help eliminate where your air leak is. BTW those standyne pumps will take a beating. Pull the injectors and soak them in atf. Seems silly to do an engine swap just because you can't get it fuelled.
8:47 In my 10 years experience as a Army light wheel vehicle mechanic I don't recall EVER having to replace a fuel line check valve. I am sure someone has but I never had to. Lucky I guess. 😉😆
That shelf forward of the windshield washer reservoir is for a Thomas 24v 270047 1/3 HP air compressor. Did you leave the shelf on your truck or did you remove it?
Top of the fuel filter is a flat head screw. Crack it and let the air out. The port y’all keep opening on the fuel filter is for the fuel inspection. Basically so they can test it for water and it’s not helping you prime the system.
Years ago I worked for Uhaul ( a terrible company) and lord I hated cold winter mornings where I had to go and try to get the diesel trucks started so that we could run them that day.
Hi zack, the problem is the Smart Start System box, if there is a problem in starting. There are 2 type of it KDS or NATRON, I encountered many problem with it, coz I work in the military. Check it.
Why is the radiator above the engine? It seems like it would be a rear chore to even replace the engine. Also, heat rises so wouldn't it make the radiator more efficient to have it up front where the air is colder, especially when driving since air is moving through it?
Very interesting. Guess that goes with every car the more you let it sit the more problems you're going to have down the road. It's interesting too that many of the gov planet Humvees have the same issues and this could most likely be it.
With Diesel engine with out dpf systems check for smoke if you see smoke out the tail pipe u are getting fuel. If your not getting smoke something is stopping it from injecting
Zack and Brian must have the same barber.
Yeah really uhuhuhuhihuhuh
@@mondude9754 shut up
@@daviddoyonjr5774 mad?
@@dnzdrakrks7549 common guys don't fight
I guess they were only barber of each other 😂😂
I thought you may have just forgot to fill it up.
Sometimes the answer to a simple problem lies right in front of you. But you are too blind to notice.
That's when you know, you looked too far for the easiest answer. 😂
Zack's face at the end of the video, "My dissapointment is immeasurable and my day is ruined" my man looked so defeated
i think he is turning it into all electric on main channel
Now that I've watched to video, I understand why fellow mechanics are cringing at my decision to check compression first. When I was called in the glow plugs weren't working- and one or two had blown up in the hole- that is, they blew out from too much heat and pieces of them were likely to have been dropped in the cylinder where the chances of valve or cylinder damage was possible. The compression testing was done to verify we still had enough compression to make this compression ignition engine run. The way this was edited doesn't reflect all the information or the situation I had when that decision was made. Oh well. For anyone who cares, now you're aware. My apologies for the time spent cringing.
Thanks for the clarification. It's always great when you're involved in the video.
@@devdhamija7585 Much thanks Dev!
@@briansmobile1 No. Thank YOU!
Labor rates:
$45 / half hour,
$65 if you watch,
$85 if you already tore into it,
$125 if all the above AND you're posting it on TH-cam.
Just kidding. Who would do that last one? lol
For anyone curious to know, the best course of action in a case like this is to crack fuel lines at the injectors and pump one at a time while cranking it if it won't start. If you've got fuel, and you have no evidence of mechanical damage to the cylinders- cover the exhaust to help compression retention and crank it. I was called in to address a known glow plug issue in the beginning (one was blown while inside the cylinder- ouch). And this was unfortunately after the engine had been desperately & extensively cranked over. Once we fixed the glow plug issue and verified the cylinder(s) had compression- the hunt for fuel led to a stuck check valve between the tank and the mechanical lift pump from sitting (original problem causing the no-start). Once that was remedied, we were at the top of the order and discovered the injector pump rotor was ground up from fuel starvation as evidenced by... you guessed it. Cracking lines open at the injectors and injector pump one at a time. By then- it was time to pursue the original intention with the Hummer... flux capacitor!
Yeah. I have a tractor and excavator and have had to do the same thing a number of times. Crap or water in the fuel tank is number 1suspect, blocked fuel filters and fuel system number 2.
That's a bargan cause I saw you swap a Subie motor in an hour
@@scottbaker9066 Hey Scott! Have you seen my latest video/ give away? Still got 23 days.
$250 if you help
So much patience. I have gone down this same path and can agree that these are a royal pain in the behind to work on and diagnose.
I have been working on 6.5 l for almost 20 years you need to check the line that goes to the injectors Crack them loss one at a time and see if you get fuel to the injectors when you turn it over you have to prime the system 6.5 are almost bullet proof I can almost Guarantee it needs to be Primed
ahh PRIMED yes that was the term I was looking for; while watching and shaking my head at all the tests and parts being replaced. These machines are beasts that will keep running for a long time as long you take care of them (a daily/weekly task)
He had fuel at the bleeder is it before the injection lines?
@@David.-_- the bleeder was before the faulty 1 way check valve.
Your right I've worked on them since they been out and that's the first thing you d
@@David.-_- very little needs more coming out.
I've replaced a ton of this 6.2 injector pumps, you dont need to mark the timing, the gear the fuel pump bolts up to has a hole for a pin in the injector pump itself, so you can not put it in wrong, it is reltively easy, it would just be time consuming the first time you do it, you might want to get someone who knows this engines better to help you out
This is the 6.5 variant. Same concept and the timing is adjustable. Don't really need to mark it though. There are two indented lines you need to line up at first and adjust as necessary.
The 3 main mounting bolts on the injection pump to block are slotted to allow the rotation
Yes your right
There are older but excellent military troubleshooting videos on TH-cam called "HMMWV Troubleshooting the Fuel System" and "HMMWV Troubleshooting Electrical System" thanks to "Everything Hummer" for posting them on TH-cam. If the guys in this video would have watched the recommended troubleshooting videos before they worked on their Hmmwv they would have saved a lot of time, money and the Hmmwv would most likely be running instead of scrapped. These videos give many ways to troubleshoot the systems quick and efficient, showing continuity and resistance checks to perform first that take the guess work out of troubleshooting the HMMWV's. This includes fast and easy checks of the glow plugs and glow plug controller. Getting the air out of the fuel lines and injector system is a common online important step/recommendation before attempting to start any diesel engine and it is part of the "HMMWV troubleshooting the fuel system" video.
So this is the start of the electric humvee hehe..😂😂😂😂
I think Zack was disappointed by Soo many mechanical failures....
Happy Birthday Zack!
Watching this video after seeing it rolling with electricity is just insane. Congrats Zack, you've come a long way !!
Zack: So I think we found where the problem really was
Zack too: Slowly replaces whole engine
I go through the same troubleshooting steps…
“Of course, it’s gotta be this …” _moments later_ “Oh, well this … is definitely the problem then…” _repeat_
I almost hate to say it but I'm happy you weren't able to get it to start off diesel, I am LOVING the Hummer EV project. It's so cool
The glow plugs are there to aid in cold starts... a diesel runs on compressing the fuel to ignite it... also I'd bleed the fuel lines at the injectors...
So disappointing to not see it running! I started working on my first diesel during lockdown last year (with no prior experience working on vehicles) and love every minute. It’s a Land Rover, so not exactly the same, but I’d still fancy my chances if she ever stopped altogether 😅 Please have another crack at it before you ditch the engine entirely 🙏
Glad I went back and found this video to see the conclusion of the troubleshooting. Hope you have a video of when you purchased it. I am off to hunt for that now.
Happy birthday Uncle Zack! 😎🥳😀💫
I honestly don't miss working on these when I had to when I was a 3522 in the USMC. They are way easier than LVS's but not by much.
Troubleshooting these are pain.
ask for a company that refurbishes this parts and if you can not find one in the US you will find one in europe, mainland or in Lethvia and Lithuania were they are still used to fix things over and over again back from the former soviet occupation era.
Here a lot of the motor parts are being refurbished just to save money and protect the environment.
Why would Soviet occupied countries have parts for an American military vehicle?
@@username65585 because they use humvees a lot
this dude here knows nothing, soviets didnt use humvees and neither did lithuania and latvia have any during soviet occupation
@@male07mdl a distributor injection pump is what you would find on pretty much every tractor and truck ("commercial truck" for the US people) engine behind the Iron Curtain. Even soviet military vehicles used a distributor pump diesel, unit injectors were non-existent here, this was the go-to solution for diesel injection for a looong time.
Depending on how badly Zack tore up the insides of it, an old timey latvian/lithuanian disel mechanic has a better chance of rebuilding it then some hipster who's used to connecting an OBD-II dignostic and just replacing whatever modules it deems defective.
@@AKAtheA These are Stanadyne db2 rotary pumps. Any local diesel injection shop in the US should be able to work on these. They are ancient technology as you stated. Been around since the 50s.
6:38 Wait what?! Jerry has little hairs on his head!!
HAHAHA
Don't know how deep your swap will be, but i served 12 years driving trucks in the Army. A tip for your consideration. If you keep the stock coolant system it will overheat unless you unplug the connection next to the coolant reservoir. It is the the 2 prong. Unplugging it will keep the fan on constantly.
Maybe you should read your comments more. Postings from the two earlier videos all identified the fuel system as the problem. It was suggested right off that trying a shot of ether or cracking one of the injector line nuts would show right away if there was injection taking place or not. Tracing back from there would have found the cause without buying and installing all those new parts.
it seems that he need to make videos lol , oh my injectors are rusty and clogged but its not the issue 😂
It great seeing the prequel to the soon to be electric hmmwv
I have seen couple "Engine won't start video's" and people that keep trying starting the engine for more than 5 minutes always damaged or broke something.
After 5 minutes check all the AIR - FUEL - POWER components, even if you find 3 plausible failures go through the full check list from A-Z number's*.
As much as it is fun watching y'all try for others, for diagnostic technicans it's a nightmare.
I am a game developer and have no idea what any of these words mean. But for some reason I'm at 10:55 so far, and still continuing to watch lol
You are a master at destroying things. I enjoyed watching you problem solve.
Starter & battery turn over for 5 minutes without melting. That's pretty good! Most starter motors are on the brink of meltdown after 60 seconds of cranking.
a bare HMMWV was like $70k new from AM General, and by bare I mean even the doors and roof were an optional accessory.
That pricetag meant you get the good stuff and everything is overbuilt ;-)
@@AKAtheA Company I worked at rebuilt starter motors. Seen melted starter motors from trucks that cost $100-$250k used. Same 24v style used in HMMWV. Meh.
I love these. My old boss that was on the navy. Don Smith. Commerce city colorado. Would drive one of these to the company he owned. He would love talking about it. He would always say "you could fix these with a shoe string if it ever broke in the field" who knows what that means lol.
The Hummer was thinking to heal himself.
But he doesn't even realised that he is gonna be transformed into an Electric Vehicle and will be remembered in the history.
I thought we were going to learn more about diesel engines, cause I'm with you Zack, I know absolutely nothing about diesels 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺🦘🦘🦘🦘
Zack, you need to get in touch with Gale Banks about upgrades to your Hummer. Gale is amazing
As a mechanic that has worked on these things for the past FIVE YEARS... im just dying rn... I wanna help so bad 😅
I think any individual that served in the military (myself included) would love to help. I used to have this exact same problem with my HMMWV and a good can of starter fluid would always solve the issue, especially when the vehicle hadn't been driven in awhile. FYI military vehicles are meant to be driven/started daily. If you leave it to sit you will surely run into starting problems.
the worst performing vehicle needs a mechanic every 10 km. It's true?
check you are getting fuel at the injectors , and that the fuel shut off solenoid on or near the injection pump is allowing fuel in
to the high pressure pump ,.
also check the tank for crap, (blow the fuel lines before the filters back to the with the tank cap off ) there should be no restriction to flow , then blow the fuel back to filters ( wrap a rag around your air blow valve push into the tank filler and short pulse of air should get the fuel back to the filters .
you will need to get as much air out of the fuel system or it will not run ( air compasses fuel doesn't).
bleed up to the high pressure pump then crake off all the pipes at the injectors , crank it till fuel squirts at the injectors , tighten them up , turn it over and it should fire up , it may take a while to do the above but it should /will run
good luck (i am a railroad maintenance engineer) same basic engines just bigger
idk why i like repairing or restoring videos so much😂
Before the guy showed up with ideas about compression and fuel pump, you were gonna check the injectors. When trouble shooting a motor it is outside to in. A compression test is one of the last things to do once you know everything outside is good.
That fuckin' bleeder valve! Had a PFC flip that doing a PMCS, not one the steps, he was just fuckin' around trying to figure out what it does, he left it open.
You can bypass the check valve, the fuel lift pump has one internally, probably the old lift pump was failing and letting the fuel back to the tank causing slow starts as it needed to purge the fuel system and the previous owner just installed the check valve to avoid changing the lift pump
Thank you!
After watching this video, I found your root cause was the same as mine. (Fortunately, no other damage requiring other repair.)
The getting to that valve is a Royale pain.
this series a perfect excuse for a collab of jerry and chrisfix
I've replaced many injector pumps on HMMWV's. It can be done in about a half a day without removing the intake manifold. This is the "field expedient method".
What is a chance the injector pumps go bad ?
@@dansong3704 The injector pump is all mechanical and they rarely go out. I can only remember changing 1 that was bad due to internal component failure and not external shrapnel of some kind.
Check the PDM pump mounted Driver before replacing the entire pump it was also likely fried with the other electrical items and they tend to go out a lot on those 6.5's.
Just finished working on a 1995 Humvee 2 hours ago, you need the EMSNG software, it has all the troubleshooting steps
Hey Jerry! now I see that near future, you are not going to spend a lot time fixing the humvee!… I did not like elwctric, but now you make me like it!
Been loving the episodes!
I’m telling you, just crank it for like 2 minutes while plugging the exhaust pipe
Makes sense to me. Hold the pressure in and increase temp
This is the way!!!! Always works when I was in
That sound incredibly dangerous and stupid which is why I bet it works every time
I guess you have channels all over the place! Since I just found this today and subscribed. I guess that the frustration with diesels is the driving force for your electrical conversation of this Hummer ! Glad that I found this channel and video! See ya later Zack!
Its been a long time since I worked on this in the marines but I would check the return line out of the top of the injection pump for blocked fitting with plastic if so pop out ball and spring out of bottom of fitting
Happy birthday Zack! 🎉
Happy B-day Zack
Happy belated Birthday Zack!!
Disconnect the fuel return line from the fuel return solenoid on the very front top of the injection pump and see if fuel comes out. There's another one way check valve there. Also check that wire 54a, which is one if two wires going to the pump, has battery power while starting.
I called it🤟🏼… injection pump was common job I had to to when I use to work at hummer… it’s not hard takes about 3-4 hours to replace
Need to get Junkyard Digs out there, they'd have it running in 15 minutes including a run to O'Rileys 😂
He was aviation mechanic and hates diesel engines.
Injection pump is a common issue as well. Pull one end of the black hose off the top and see if fuel comes out.
I totally forgot about this channel im happy
I was so excited for this ....
How many times did he say ‘I think we found the problem’😂😂😂
Hey im car mehanic in the IDF,
I work lot on humwvees,
Did you check the fuel injector pump? In the middle of the engine, lot comfort getting threw the cabin, the rear engine cover..
Get the diesel Pipe out and check fuel is coming out
check also the connector!
I don't think it's anything with the glow plugs. It's summer right now and hot outside. Glow plugs honestly do nothing right now.
Yeah, but the wait light is probably thr glow plug light, i dunno but are they supposed glow every startup
@@MohdAzylee yeah they do, but hes saying thats irrelevant to it not starting right now because of how warm it is outside. It doesnt need them to start in the middle of the summe.
@@bobgoat5994 well they need to add more tech and sensors to do that, and prone to more failurez so better that lol
Could just spray starting fluid/ether/carb/cleaner etc into the intake while cranking it. If it fires only while spraying then its a fuel delivery issue.
Also, why replace the fuel pump after confirming that fuel was being pumped up to the engine bay?
Basically glow plugs are an added luxury in part for the cold winter startups
Hi zack, you should check the CRS control box, there is connection for glow plug.
We need a zacks jerry rig intro.
Please BREAK it!!!! I want more content with the army car!!1!!111!1!1!!!
The mechanical diesel engine is the easiest engine to work on. Your problem is air intrusion. If you remove the mechanical lift pump and replace it with an electric pump you won't have a priming issue again. Have you checked the return lines, all of the orings under the injectors, the feed line from the tank, fittings on the filter head, the shower head in the tank? What you should try is taking a rubber line from the lift pump directly into a can of diesel. It will help eliminate where your air leak is. BTW those standyne pumps will take a beating. Pull the injectors and soak them in atf. Seems silly to do an engine swap just because you can't get it fuelled.
Goonzquad will get excited if they see this HMMWV. They are into these sort of builds since quite a few years. Please get in touch with those boys.
8:47 In my 10 years experience as a Army light wheel vehicle mechanic I don't recall EVER having to replace a fuel line check valve. I am sure someone has but I never had to. Lucky I guess. 😉😆
Make sure you are getting power to the injector pump and the connectors are connected to it, if not you will get a crank but no start
must be nice... Just having a Humvv chillin' in the backyard for a few months.
This was the last time when 17 helped 47.
That shelf forward of the windshield washer reservoir is for a Thomas 24v 270047 1/3 HP air compressor. Did you leave the shelf on your truck or did you remove it?
I knew he was gonna turn this into an electric one :) hope the next video comes soon
He’s a good lad that Brian. 👊🏻
dang, zack actually paid attention during high school spanish class. That "nada" was... scrumptious
Yeah, it caught my attention. The pronunciation was on point
Top of the fuel filter is a flat head screw. Crack it and let the air out. The port y’all keep opening on the fuel filter is for the fuel inspection. Basically so they can test it for water and it’s not helping you prime the system.
Years ago I worked for Uhaul ( a terrible company) and lord I hated cold winter mornings where I had to go and try to get the diesel trucks started so that we could run them that day.
Hi zack, the problem is the Smart Start System box, if there is a problem in starting. There are 2 type of it KDS or NATRON, I encountered many problem with it, coz I work in the military. Check it.
The compression ignites the fuel, the spark plug help to keep to pre warm the cillinder, the most comon failure is the air in the fuel line
The reason of that valve is to avoid the air in the sistem
Zack really has a thing for those glow plugs =D they do nothing in summer
2:57 That made me laugh so long!
Honestly waiting for an Epic Colab between you and ChrisFix
Why is the radiator above the engine? It seems like it would be a rear chore to even replace the engine. Also, heat rises so wouldn't it make the radiator more efficient to have it up front where the air is colder, especially when driving since air is moving through it?
Very interesting. Guess that goes with every car the more you let it sit the more problems you're going to have down the road. It's interesting too that many of the gov planet Humvees have the same issues and this could most likely be it.
Just watched these… now excited for tomorrow 😁⚡️
I saw those tesla modules in the garage! I bet they're making an electric Hummvee!
Good luck replacing the injector pump if you go that route😂😂 I've done one and it's a pain in the ass
Great video what did you end up doing with the hummer
00:40 is that your ring protector buddy? Such a nice handy thing to have 😎
With Diesel engine with out dpf systems check for smoke if you see smoke out the tail pipe u are getting fuel. If your not getting smoke something is stopping it from injecting
When jerry not opening or destroying up phones, he fixes things on this channel
I dont have that water separator valve mount in my truck. I may have to drill a hole and mount it on the splash guard.
Just COVER THE EXHAUST AND IT WILL START
Clearly just as frustrated as me that he wont listen to military advice
Waiting for the channel to be renamed to "ZacksJerryRig's garage" =)
Nice work!
I feel compelled to be the obvious guy and suggest HMMWV owners get copies of the -10 and -20 manuals. These contain some 30 yrs worth of knowledge.
Should check the ECU. My car had the same kind of sound the one you had when u started in the start if the video.
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Cool ride but love Brian's magic text-reversing tshirt too. ESAERCED DLROW KCUS indeed! :-D
Is there a way to find the service history of a Humvee, like where it served?