Thanks buddy. Glad you liked my video and hopefully was helpful (if you have the similar bike). Yea, I like to keep it cleaned up after she gets dirty for sure…maybe a little too much lol
...and that's what it's all aboot! Good video. I like your organization. I just bought an 18' XC_W 250, and it looks like I need to get a degree in TPI. There must be a way to attasch vacuum and a VOM to test thes things before you put it back together. BTW, my 03 200 MXC gives nothing powerwise, through the rev range to my newer TPI, as it sets.
@@GnarlyChickenI see too many money driven videos and influenced reviews that it starts to feel like a waste of time. it would have been so easy to just hit the magic button but you didn't. Too many people don't practice what they preach.
The tab on the plastic throttle body cable cover broke on mine also on my 2022 KTM 300 XC TPI (not a PDS bike). The tab is hard plastic and the lip on the TPS is a long way for the tab to be flexed over. List for a new cover is $21.76 + tax here. I removed the seat, the gas tank with its shrouds & lifted the tail section I did the idle screw mod on the bike and never removed those 2 cables. I removed the cover over the 2 cables. I never had to reconnect any cables and no adjusting of course. I removed the throttle body from the engine. I wore a thick leather welding glove on me left hand to hold the throttle body. Moved it to the left side next to the frame and heated it for 30 seconds with a propane torch while holding it in my left hand which never got hot. The grub screw turned via a 2.5 mm allen wrench about 3/4 of a turn. I heated again for about 10 seconds. It turned easily about 1 turn. I heated it again maybe 5 seconds max and out it came. Then I cooled it with compressed air and blew out the threaded hole. Then gently ran a tap through it. 5mm * 0.8 Put copper grease on the stainless screw I had. Everything took maybe 15 minutes in total at this point Then I removed the sensor tray (ispected it and it looked OK and tested OK but I replaced it anyways) and installed Mark's tray with his machined brass piece for the CCPS. Swapped over the oil injecting pump. Then reinstalled the throttle body. Bleed the oil via the dongle that takes maybe 30 seconds once all lines are reconnected. I fine tuned the TPS to 0.590 Vdc (spec range is 0.580 to 0.600 Vdc) via turning the idle screw. I probed the back side of the connector's wires with a pin ensuring they were in all the way and did not touch each other. Using a Volts DC meter touch the red + lead to the yellow middle wire and the black - meter lead to the lower black wire on the TPS with its connector still connected to the TPS. Engine is off and Dongle is connected to power it. Adjust the Vdc via turning the idle screw. Older bikes required rotating the TPS also but not the last few years as now they are a different design. No one knows why the sensors are going that I have been able to find out. Different reasons for different people. KTM had so many go that about 9 months ago KTM ran out of them. So far no improvement in running with my bike. ============================================= Had the KTM Map 102 replaced with Map 103 Extreme. Took dealer about 15 minutes max at my cost. Have not ridden it yet to see how it runs.
Holy man...good job bud. So u replaced the tray? With one from Mark at T.O.R ? Didn't know he had a replacement tray. Thot he only had the replacement brass fitting?? Guess I must be lucky as I haven't had to adjust my tps. Did on my 500 exc one time..but for a different reason. Glad the idle screw mod went well for ya. My new throttle body cover is at the shop now...although the broken tab has not caused a problem. I only took everything apart just for the sake of knowing...but won't do it again..lol
@@GnarlyChicken My TPS cover with the broken tab seems sturdy but I was at the dealer so I ordered a new one just because and to be have peace of mind.
KTM Map 102 added more oil only at start up when the engine was 10 degrees celsius or colder. Only for a few minutes at start up. KTM Map 103 Extreme adds more oil all the time. I am not getting good info as to any other changes that Map 103 may also have. But My source says there are other changes also. For years 2020 and 2021 KTM reduced the oil injected by 40%!!!! This was too much and many where finding cylinder wear on the exhaust side of the cylinder after only a few hours of running upon disassembly. Many who run their bikes in the winter and snow (maybe ice racing?) in Canada ask for the Map 103 my local dealer told me. Black Foot Motors in Calgary is who told me instantly when I spoke with them to get the Map 103 and put a new plug in it as they had many bikes act like mine. And he said, "This will fix it." So I am going with his help. Snow here now so not sure when and where I can test ride it where it will get some traction.
I would use silicone grease only for o rings and pipes etc. 👍 P.S good stock of kindling there :-) P.P.S thanks for making tbe vid, very good reference. Subscribed.
For those that do not know, silicone grease is dielectric grease. Also many use it to coat a moose or inner tire tube. It does not affct the rubber and stays in place. In can help reduce pinch flats as the tube slides in the tire/ rim assembly.
Nice video...I did the same steps as you a few months ago when my 22’ TE300i started sputtering at low throttle. IMO the way the CCPS sits in the trey is a poor design, I decided to drill out the nipple on the trey where the sensor and trey meet and install a hose directly over the CCPS using a 1/8 to 1/4 inch brass reducer and 1/4 inch fuel line. I haven’t had an issue since and I’m gone away from this design...not saying this is the best way to combat the issue but for the price of the trey I gave it a shot lol
Thanks for the response man. Sounds like you did the same mod that a few have done. Tokyo Offroad built a similar mod and I have since heard no negative reports. Might ne a winter mod for mine...
@@GnarlyChicken Yea I as well like the Tokyo Offroad design…if ever my current setup gives me issues I’ll try out the mod he designed, it’s amazing how much information is to be gained by watching his videos!
@@huskynick7562 I ended up buying a couple of Tokyo Offroads tray mods. Installed one on my te300 and so far so good. But will be going with the full ccps and injector relocate from tsp soon, along with their power kit (different head and cpu flash)
Thank you, very detailed video for tray removal. As you said, deffo not one of these online! Can i ask if you had a CCPS issue or was this just maintenance? Ive swapped my sensors over as a test and the bikes now running and riding fine again. Once failed, im not sure if cleaning out the sensor will fix it haha
Thanks for commenting Marc, appreciate that you liked the video. No, I only did it to see how to do it…for when I needed to do it lol. I would suggest that buy a spare or two. That’s what I did because of the shortage, but have already used one of them when I fixed another buddies 150 te. Also, I do know that a friend of mine(same guy that makes ProFound Carbon parts for our bikes), had his ccps go bad. He took it out, dried it out by his wood stove for 24 hrs, reinstalled it and it has worked fine since mid last summer.
Oh and Do Not pressure wash your bike around those sensors…I do think that’s where some people are having issues..that and riding through muddy swaps and water crossings
No I did not. Unfortunately I had the dealer do it as they had my bike for about a month while I had the suspension sent out. I wish I had done it myself however.. Can’t go wrong with Mark’s videos eh? He ‘a very thorough. I’ve talked to him a few times online with questions.
I bought a Trail Tech fan, and the included temp guage. Originally I bought the Husky/KTM fan that connects to the bike's harness, and is controlled by the ecu...but just didn't trust it. Took it off, and installed the TT. Now, I can set the temp on the guage a little lower, so the fan kicks on before the stock setting number. Gives me a little more piece of mind. So far, it's worked flawlessly...and I love that I can see the temp number all the time. Thx for the question buddy..hope that helps you.
Nice thorough video. Real time working speed for most people. Does anyone say what the ohms or voltage(s) should be when a vaccum/pressure hand pump is attached to the CCPS? I do not have a shop manual for my 2022 KTM 300 XC TPI. Guess I should buy one as my bike does everything good except it lacks power through the rpm range. I rode a 2018 XC carbureted the other day and that bike is completely more responsive and runs like a scared cat and mine is like a 100cc four stroke trail bike. Forget about mine lifting the front wheel. Not impressed with my 1st KTM. It has so many short comimngs re-quality.
@@GnarlyChicken All the time. I spoke to a large dealer and they told me they have no nreak-in. Just warm it via riding, no idling and then ride it. They said put a new plug in it and rev it higher. Their racers learned to let them idel a max of 30 seconds, then satrt riding and once at full operating temp to "Get ouy of town\" = ride the dang thing and rev it. I tried to follow the manual which said no >70% throttle for 1st 3 hours. and the dealer said no do not do that. Slaves Racing also said no break-in and he knows if anyone knows. Any old style break-in will glaze teh cylinder and the rings.
@@human1513 man...wish I could have ur bike for a day and see what it's doing. Did u try swappi g ur plug yet (like ur dealer suggested?) Any change? Whats ur old plug look like? Have you had the new map installed yet? I know I had my 21 new map installed (provided more oiling during warm up). Where your air screw set? Is your bike stumbling at and up to 1/3 throttle? Have you done the idle mod yet? May have talked about all these in past discussions...sorry if we have...getting a ton of comments on our channel and trying to keep up w everyone who have questions. I will tell you this...Tokyo Offroad (Mark), is a fantastic person to reach out to man. Check out his channel for all things KTM! I have also talked to him and emailed aswell...super knowlegable and a top notch mechanic who is extremely thorough in his testing...just a thought. These 300's are finicky to set up I find, but once they are, they're wicked. Dan
After installing a new iridium plug. It originally had a BR7ES. I finally got to try it. A quick gentle warm up riding. Then rode the shit out of it reving it, full throttle pulls 1st 4 gears as if in a race. Well is responds better with more power. But now at steady throttle in 1st gear, 3rd gear, any gear it runs then sputters for a splt second like the fuel was stopped. Then it goes, then it sputters or more like it cuts out for a split second. Open the throttle fully and hold it there and it goes. But at a steady throttle it almost drops the front end into the face of the next woop or into a puddle of water. Not safe. Going to call the closest dealer. See what they can do. It has 4.7 hours on it now. The regular spark plug was a nice, ok brown colour. It has never got on the pipe from new. For giggles I turned in, richened the air bypass screw. 1/2 turn in, the 1 turn, the 1.5 turns. No improvement so returned it to the original 3.5 turns out. Today I did pullout to use the cold start knob. It started instantly. I released the cold start after about 5 seconds. This only the 2nd time I ever used the cold start enrichening black knob. Put 0.7 hours on it this evening to do all of the above. Ugggg.
Heard from dealer! 😱😳 Cylinder and piston severely cracked. Also rear shock is leaking. Shock is mine to cover dealer said. Engine parts are back ordered to March 15, 2022. Due to holidays they will likely not hear back from KTM unitil 1st week of 2022 as to if they cover anything. Cost is approx. $2,900 for engine parts and labour. 3 possibilities for engine: KTM covers 100%, some sort of split betwen me and KTM (mabe me labour them parts), & I cover it all. It lacked power from the 1st minute so I suspect it had a leak or crack from the KTM assembly time. Bad part(s)? Bike has 7 hours on it now. Never rode it the 1st approx. 2 months due to my health reasons.
@@GnarlyChicken Thanx. It may have been damaged during the end of the assembly line dyno run they all go through. That is why they say there is not break-in on them. They already ran them hard on a dyno short run.
I started sealing the two bodies of the sensors, and went w Tokyo Off Road’s brass attachment. Have had no issues since. Plus, I no longer pressure wash those sensor areas. When u say buyout, are u referring to relocating the CCPS sensor?
Great video. Your bike is impeccable
Thanks buddy. Glad you liked my video and hopefully was helpful (if you have the similar bike). Yea, I like to keep it cleaned up after she gets dirty for sure…maybe a little too much lol
...and that's what it's all aboot! Good video. I like your organization.
I just bought an 18' XC_W 250, and it looks like I need to get a degree in TPI.
There must be a way to attasch vacuum and a VOM to test thes things before you put it back together.
BTW, my 03 200 MXC gives nothing powerwise, through the rev range to my newer TPI, as it sets.
Thx for the comment man. Been a great bike so far, especially w the suspension! Was a fun vid to do.
Your a real one! Thanks for kickstarting
Hey thanks man. That’s nice to hear. We’re just a couple hacks and good friends, who’s original idea was to keep it real…appreciate your comment.
@@GnarlyChickenI see too many money driven videos and influenced reviews that it starts to feel like a waste of time. it would have been so easy to just hit the magic button but you didn't. Too many people don't practice what they preach.
@@THEdisgruntledmonk yep agreed.
The tab on the plastic throttle body cable cover broke on mine also on my 2022 KTM 300 XC TPI (not a PDS bike).
The tab is hard plastic and the lip on the TPS is a long way for the tab to be flexed over.
List for a new cover is $21.76 + tax here.
I removed the seat, the gas tank with its shrouds & lifted the tail section
I did the idle screw mod on the bike and never removed those 2 cables.
I removed the cover over the 2 cables.
I never had to reconnect any cables and no adjusting of course.
I removed the throttle body from the engine.
I wore a thick leather welding glove on me left hand to hold the throttle body.
Moved it to the left side next to the frame and heated it for 30 seconds with a propane torch while holding it in my left hand which never got hot.
The grub screw turned via a 2.5 mm allen wrench about 3/4 of a turn.
I heated again for about 10 seconds. It turned easily about 1 turn.
I heated it again maybe 5 seconds max and out it came.
Then I cooled it with compressed air and blew out the threaded hole.
Then gently ran a tap through it. 5mm * 0.8
Put copper grease on the stainless screw I had.
Everything took maybe 15 minutes in total at this point
Then I removed the sensor tray (ispected it and it looked OK and tested OK but I replaced it anyways) and installed Mark's tray with his machined brass piece for the CCPS.
Swapped over the oil injecting pump.
Then reinstalled the throttle body.
Bleed the oil via the dongle that takes maybe 30 seconds once all lines are reconnected.
I fine tuned the TPS to 0.590 Vdc (spec range is 0.580 to 0.600 Vdc) via turning the idle screw.
I probed the back side of the connector's wires with a pin ensuring they were in all the way and did not touch each other.
Using a Volts DC meter touch the red + lead to the yellow middle wire and the black - meter lead to the lower black wire on the TPS with its connector still connected to the TPS.
Engine is off and Dongle is connected to power it.
Adjust the Vdc via turning the idle screw.
Older bikes required rotating the TPS also but not the last few years as now they are a different design.
No one knows why the sensors are going that I have been able to find out. Different reasons for different people.
KTM had so many go that about 9 months ago KTM ran out of them.
So far no improvement in running with my bike.
=============================================
Had the KTM Map 102 replaced with Map 103 Extreme. Took dealer about 15 minutes max at my cost.
Have not ridden it yet to see how it runs.
Holy man...good job bud. So u replaced the tray? With one from Mark at T.O.R ? Didn't know he had a replacement tray. Thot he only had the replacement brass fitting??
Guess I must be lucky as I haven't had to adjust my tps. Did on my 500 exc one time..but for a different reason. Glad the idle screw mod went well for ya. My new throttle body cover is at the shop now...although the broken tab has not caused a problem. I only took everything apart just for the sake of knowing...but won't do it again..lol
@@GnarlyChicken My TPS cover with the broken tab seems sturdy but I was at the dealer so I ordered a new one just because and to be have peace of mind.
KTM Map 102 added more oil only at start up when the engine was 10 degrees celsius or colder.
Only for a few minutes at start up.
KTM Map 103 Extreme adds more oil all the time.
I am not getting good info as to any other changes that Map 103 may also have.
But My source says there are other changes also.
For years 2020 and 2021 KTM reduced the oil injected by 40%!!!!
This was too much and many where finding cylinder wear on the exhaust side of the cylinder after only a few hours of running upon disassembly.
Many who run their bikes in the winter and snow (maybe ice racing?) in Canada ask for the Map 103 my local dealer told me.
Black Foot Motors in Calgary is who told me instantly when I spoke with them to get the Map 103 and put a new plug in it as they had many bikes act like mine. And he said, "This will fix it."
So I am going with his help. Snow here now so not sure when and where I can test ride it where it will get some traction.
I would use silicone grease only for o rings and pipes etc. 👍
P.S good stock of kindling there :-)
P.P.S thanks for making tbe vid, very good reference.
Subscribed.
For those that do not know, silicone grease is dielectric grease.
Also many use it to coat a moose or inner tire tube. It does not affct the rubber and stays in place. In can help reduce pinch flats as the tube slides in the tire/ rim assembly.
Thx for the comment man...and sub. Yes the kindling....gotta have that stocked lol. Keep as much as I can get...
@@GnarlyChicken get to your local roof truss place - can get offcuts in a ton bag for £20 here in the uk 🤛
Nice video...I did the same steps as you a few months ago when my 22’ TE300i started sputtering at low throttle. IMO the way the CCPS sits in the trey is a poor design, I decided to drill out the nipple on the trey where the sensor and trey meet and install a hose directly over the CCPS using a 1/8 to 1/4 inch brass reducer and 1/4 inch fuel line. I haven’t had an issue since and I’m gone away from this design...not saying this is the best way to combat the issue but for the price of the trey I gave it a shot lol
Thanks for the response man. Sounds like you did the same mod that a few have done. Tokyo Offroad built a similar mod and I have since heard no negative reports. Might ne a winter mod for mine...
@@GnarlyChicken Yea I as well like the Tokyo Offroad design…if ever my current setup gives me issues I’ll try out the mod he designed, it’s amazing how much information is to be gained by watching his videos!
@@huskynick7562 I ended up buying a couple of Tokyo Offroads tray mods. Installed one on my te300 and so far so good. But will be going with the full ccps and injector relocate from tsp soon, along with their power kit (different head and cpu flash)
Nice video! Thanks
Hey your welcome bud. Hope it was useful
Thank you, very detailed video for tray removal. As you said, deffo not one of these online! Can i ask if you had a CCPS issue or was this just maintenance? Ive swapped my sensors over as a test and the bikes now running and riding fine again. Once failed, im not sure if cleaning out the sensor will fix it haha
Thanks for commenting Marc, appreciate that you liked the video. No, I only did it to see how to do it…for when I needed to do it lol. I would suggest that buy a spare or two. That’s what I did because of the shortage, but have already used one of them when I fixed another buddies 150 te.
Also, I do know that a friend of mine(same guy that makes ProFound Carbon parts for our bikes), had his ccps go bad. He took it out, dried it out by his wood stove for 24 hrs, reinstalled it and it has worked fine since mid last summer.
Oh and Do Not pressure wash your bike around those sensors…I do think that’s where some people are having issues..that and riding through muddy swaps and water crossings
I noticed you had the kick starter, I bought the kit also, did you put that on yourself? I’ve watched Mark at Tokyo Offroad video
No I did not. Unfortunately I had the dealer do it as they had my bike for about a month while I had the suspension sent out. I wish I had done it myself however.. Can’t go wrong with Mark’s videos eh? He ‘a very thorough. I’ve talked to him a few times online with questions.
What temperature gauge set up are you using?
I bought a Trail Tech fan, and the included temp guage. Originally I bought the Husky/KTM fan that connects to the bike's harness, and is controlled by the ecu...but just didn't trust it. Took it off, and installed the TT. Now, I can set the temp on the guage a little lower, so the fan kicks on before the stock setting number. Gives me a little more piece of mind. So far, it's worked flawlessly...and I love that I can see the temp number all the time. Thx for the question buddy..hope that helps you.
Great video, very detailed. Subbed
Thanks bud…appreciate it
Nice thorough video. Real time working speed for most people.
Does anyone say what the ohms or voltage(s) should be when a vaccum/pressure hand pump is attached to the CCPS?
I do not have a shop manual for my 2022 KTM 300 XC TPI. Guess I should buy one as my bike does everything good except it lacks power through the rpm range. I rode a 2018 XC carbureted the other day and that bike is completely more responsive and runs like a scared cat and mine is like a 100cc four stroke trail bike. Forget about mine lifting the front wheel.
Not impressed with my 1st KTM. It has so many short comimngs re-quality.
What about when it hits the pipe...does it wake up then? Or sluggish all the time?
@@GnarlyChicken All the time. I spoke to a large dealer and they told me they have no nreak-in. Just warm it via riding, no idling and then ride it.
They said put a new plug in it and rev it higher. Their racers learned to let them idel a max of 30 seconds, then satrt riding and once at full operating temp to "Get ouy of town\" = ride the dang thing and rev it.
I tried to follow the manual which said no >70% throttle for 1st 3 hours. and the dealer said no do not do that.
Slaves Racing also said no break-in and he knows if anyone knows.
Any old style break-in will glaze teh cylinder and the rings.
@@human1513 man...wish I could have ur bike for a day and see what it's doing. Did u try swappi g ur plug yet (like ur dealer suggested?) Any change? Whats ur old plug look like? Have you had the new map installed yet? I know I had my 21 new map installed (provided more oiling during warm up). Where your air screw set? Is your bike stumbling at and up to 1/3 throttle? Have you done the idle mod yet? May have talked about all these in past discussions...sorry if we have...getting a ton of comments on our channel and trying to keep up w everyone who have questions. I will tell you this...Tokyo Offroad (Mark), is a fantastic person to reach out to man. Check out his channel for all things KTM! I have also talked to him and emailed aswell...super knowlegable and a top notch mechanic who is extremely thorough in his testing...just a thought. These 300's are finicky to set up I find, but once they are, they're wicked.
Dan
After installing a new iridium plug. It originally had a BR7ES. I finally got to try it. A quick gentle warm up riding. Then rode the shit out of it reving it, full throttle pulls 1st 4 gears as if in a race.
Well is responds better with more power.
But now at steady throttle in 1st gear, 3rd gear, any gear it runs then sputters for a splt second like the fuel was stopped. Then it goes, then it sputters or more like it cuts out for a split second.
Open the throttle fully and hold it there and it goes. But at a steady throttle it almost drops the front end into the face of the next woop or into a puddle of water.
Not safe.
Going to call the closest dealer. See what they can do. It has 4.7 hours on it now. The regular spark plug was a nice, ok brown colour.
It has never got on the pipe from new.
For giggles I turned in, richened the air bypass screw. 1/2 turn in, the 1 turn, the 1.5 turns. No improvement so returned it to the original 3.5 turns out.
Today I did pullout to use the cold start knob. It started instantly. I released the cold start after about 5 seconds. This only the 2nd time I ever used the cold start enrichening black knob.
Put 0.7 hours on it this evening to do all of the above. Ugggg.
@@GnarlyChicken it never "hits the pipe" from day 1.
for your info, throttle cables are labeled open and close under the rubber boots
Ahhh...didnt know that. Thanks bud. Good to know.
Heard from dealer! 😱😳 Cylinder and piston severely cracked. Also rear shock is leaking. Shock is mine to cover dealer said. Engine parts are back ordered to March 15, 2022. Due to holidays they will likely not hear back from KTM unitil 1st week of 2022 as to if they cover anything. Cost is approx. $2,900 for engine parts and labour. 3 possibilities for engine: KTM covers 100%, some sort of split betwen me and KTM (mabe me labour them parts), & I cover it all.
It lacked power from the 1st minute so I suspect it had a leak or crack from the KTM assembly time. Bad part(s)?
Bike has 7 hours on it now. Never rode it the 1st approx. 2 months due to my health reasons.
Holy crap buddy, that’s awful news for you. I sure hope they step up and cover all for you. That’s sucks!
@@GnarlyChicken Thanx. It may have been damaged during the end of the assembly line dyno run they all go through. That is why they say there is not break-in on them. They already ran them hard on a dyno short run.
Bypass it and never have the problem 👌👌👌👌👌
I started sealing the two bodies of the sensors, and went w Tokyo Off Road’s brass attachment. Have had no issues since. Plus, I no longer pressure wash those sensor areas. When u say buyout, are u referring to relocating the CCPS sensor?