TRQ PLEASE improve this as follows. One commenter says Pinch Bolt won't go back in with new Control Arm tapped into the Pinch Bore - exactly as I suffered in ignorance on my first side (denting my tapped in Pinch Bolt's Threads against what turned out to be a 'Too High' Pinch Pin. Another commenter says new Ball Joint won't go into the Pinch Arm (I think with Pinch Bolt left in but nut fully loosened - exactly as I'd tried on my second side. TRQ - TEACH and SHOW - as a New Video Insert just after your Tap In @ 08:29 - that the new Ball Joint must be Tapped In JUST EXACTLY ENOUGH (I'm guessing +/- 0.25 mm or 0.01inch) to show a SMOOTH BORE when you Sight Carefully Through the Whole Length of Both Sides of the Pinch Bore. AHA! We DIY'ers need to be taught that the half-circle cutout part way up the Ball Joint's Pinch Pin is Nissan's Perpendicular Interference Fit SAFETY DESIGN. It assures that the Ball Joint's Pinch Pin can NEVER Fall Down and Out of the Steering Knuckle's (Thru-Bolted) Pinch Joint. I wasted perhaps 6-8 total hours scratching my head without THAT understanding, by having to recover from my Different Mistakes on First and Second Sides. TRQ - add a bit to Show the Bore Sighting with Ball Joint Pin tapped in Too High and/or Too Low at first, then giving a 'Tiny Adjustment Tap' to achieve a PERFECTLY smooth Bore Sighting BEFORE you TRY to Insert the Pinch Bolt. Until then, I hope my too long comment will Help the Next Person!
I’ve done several and removing the sway bar link isn’t necessary, furthermore tightening the two 21mm bolts all the way will hinder a person doing it without a hoist. That ball joint won’t be as easy on the ground, I leave those bolts loose to help line up that ball joint.
Need to wait to reinstall sway bar links until after you torque the forward mounted control arm bolts. Otherwise they will block access to the bolts (that is why they were removed in the firs place.
I had 2 problems with this job, the front A arm frame bolt was a "B" to get started, and if you push the ball joint in to far the locking bolt is a PIA to get in, it has to be precise and eyeballed to allow it to go into the locking clamp for the ball joint itself
My 2014 Rogue's original Factory Links had Torx Holes (I think T35) Machined Into their Bolt Ends. I held my Torx (I think Size T35?) 'Allen Wrench Socket Bit' into the Link Bolt End as my Ball Joint Rotation Stop while also Loosening the Factory Link Nut with my (IDK) 18 or 19 mm Racheting Box End. A Crescent or a Crowfoot Socket would also work WITH your T35 in the Factory Link's Bolt End. TRQ's New Link Bolt did NOT have that Factory Nissan T35-Insert Bolt End. But, it DID have this TRQ Video's mentioned 20-mm FLATS which I WAS able to get my (Small; only 10-in) Crescent Wrench's semi-thin Head to fit onto. But, I had to gently push my (Slightly Thicker than Fixed Open-End 20mm Wrench!) Crescent Wrench Face Back JUST a bit against the new TRQ Link's Rubber Ball Joint Bellows before I could Tighten my Crescent Wrench to (Only) 20mm - tight against the Flat Faces of my TRQ link's 'Backup Nut'. Why? Because I found that a Very Thin FRONT FACE of my new TRW Link's built-in 'Backup Nut' was actually a bit LARGER and Fully Round - like the Round Rim of a Flange Nut which DOES also have its Hex Flats ... just slightly Above (or Below) that Thin Over-sized Full-Round Rim.
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What a project to get the ball joint out
TRQ PLEASE improve this as follows. One commenter says Pinch Bolt won't go back in with new Control Arm tapped into the Pinch Bore - exactly as I suffered in ignorance on my first side (denting my tapped in Pinch Bolt's Threads against what turned out to be a 'Too High' Pinch Pin. Another commenter says new Ball Joint won't go into the Pinch Arm (I think with Pinch Bolt left in but nut fully loosened - exactly as I'd tried on my second side. TRQ - TEACH and SHOW - as a New Video Insert just after your Tap In @ 08:29 - that the new Ball Joint must be Tapped In JUST EXACTLY ENOUGH (I'm guessing +/- 0.25 mm or 0.01inch) to show a SMOOTH BORE when you Sight Carefully Through the Whole Length of Both Sides of the Pinch Bore. AHA! We DIY'ers need to be taught that the half-circle cutout part way up the Ball Joint's Pinch Pin is Nissan's Perpendicular Interference Fit SAFETY DESIGN. It assures that the Ball Joint's Pinch Pin can NEVER Fall Down and Out of the Steering Knuckle's (Thru-Bolted) Pinch Joint. I wasted perhaps 6-8 total hours scratching my head without THAT understanding, by having to recover from my Different Mistakes on First and Second Sides. TRQ - add a bit to Show the Bore Sighting with Ball Joint Pin tapped in Too High and/or Too Low at first, then giving a 'Tiny Adjustment Tap' to achieve a PERFECTLY smooth Bore Sighting BEFORE you TRY to Insert the Pinch Bolt. Until then, I hope my too long comment will Help the Next Person!
Amazing! Thanks so much.
What if the bolt with ball joint doesn't want to go back on
Thank you so much for a great video!!!
I’ve done several and removing the sway bar link isn’t necessary, furthermore tightening the two 21mm bolts all the way will hinder a person doing it without a hoist.
That ball joint won’t be as easy on the ground, I leave those bolts loose to help line up that ball joint.
Great video! 💪🏼💯👊🏼🫡
Did you compensate for the extension on your torque wrench? Most sites say 107 ft lbs
Need to wait to reinstall sway bar links until after you torque the forward mounted control arm bolts. Otherwise they will block access to the bolts (that is why they were removed in the firs place.
Exlent job
I had 2 problems with this job, the front A arm frame bolt was a "B" to get started, and if you push the ball joint in to far the locking bolt is a PIA to get in, it has to be precise and eyeballed to allow it to go into the locking clamp for the ball joint itself
Doing driver and passenger started on passenger came off no problem....whooping my a** getting the new one lined up
I cant put he ball joint ball back. The ball joint is on the way of the bolt
How long did this take without editing?
8:00 I always load the suspension before tightening these bolts.
How often do the struts go out?
Is the cv shaft messed up after the lower control arm fails?
I need a video of the rear changing unless it's the same thing...
You should use C clips to remove the arm control instead of hammering
There was no 20 mm bolt/ screw at the back of link at all. On my 2012 rogue
My 2014 Rogue's original Factory Links had Torx Holes (I think T35) Machined Into their Bolt Ends. I held my Torx (I think Size T35?) 'Allen Wrench Socket Bit' into the Link Bolt End as my Ball Joint Rotation Stop while also Loosening the Factory Link Nut with my (IDK) 18 or 19 mm Racheting Box End. A Crescent or a Crowfoot Socket would also work WITH your T35 in the Factory Link's Bolt End. TRQ's New Link Bolt did NOT have that Factory Nissan T35-Insert Bolt End. But, it DID have this TRQ Video's mentioned 20-mm FLATS which I WAS able to get my (Small; only 10-in) Crescent Wrench's semi-thin Head to fit onto. But, I had to gently push my (Slightly Thicker than Fixed Open-End 20mm Wrench!) Crescent Wrench Face Back JUST a bit against the new TRQ Link's Rubber Ball Joint Bellows before I could Tighten my Crescent Wrench to (Only) 20mm - tight against the Flat Faces of my TRQ link's 'Backup Nut'. Why? Because I found that a Very Thin FRONT FACE of my new TRW Link's built-in 'Backup Nut' was actually a bit LARGER and Fully Round - like the Round Rim of a Flange Nut which DOES also have its Hex Flats ... just slightly Above (or Below) that Thin Over-sized Full-Round Rim.
Could you put subtitles for all next videos! Thanks
How fo u know when there bad
Doing one right now. Absolute garbage design, ball joint is a bear.