im becoming a motorcycle mechanic right now and in vocational school i learned something recently that i cant exactly recall about wire thickness. basically what i remember is that you can go too thick. there is a formula to calculate how thick youre wire has to be. too thin is obviously bad, it can get too hot etc but too thick also isnt good. so maybe look that up, even if its not so important for this build i think this knowledge could help you out in future projects. greetings from germany mate :)
I have a DRZ400 with the same tool tube set up and been down this road. The tube will flex down with the weight of tools and suspension causing the same issue with the wheel rubbing. I mounted an extra bracket at the top of the tube and then used a cable tie to mount around the rear rack thus stopping any flex. I also trimmed the plastic around the tube to allow for a little more room. It's a bloody tight fit.
Chappy, fit better foot pegs it will make your desert trip more comfortable and easier to handle. Pivot Pegz are Aussie made and the best option but even just wider ones will help. Thanks again for your good work.
Here's a tip Mark. On the lid of my tool tube, I drilled a small hole through the side of the cap into the thread when it was closed. I then inserted a split pin (size of the pin determined by how big a hole you drill) to hold the lid on. The split pin is easy to remove and place back in and has never looked close to coming out. Additionally, there is no need to tie anything to the split pin as it will happily sit there. Cheers!
Top job on the tool tube Mark, but I would put a slightly longer high tensile bolt on that bracket. As you know nothing is overkill when you're sitting on corrugated roads for a few hours!
Looks good Mark. Did a good job with the wiring last time always better to go safe on wiring allows to you add further accessories or higher powered ones in the future also. Bike is coming along great
If you have limited space on a bike for a tool tube, take a look at a John Deer document holder/tube, here is an ebay link for a modified one in Australia, modification is an over centre latch for a lock, but you can buy unmodified ones. They are tough and offer better mounting options, I have two fitted inside my Rally Raid side racks on a CB500X, one each side www.ebay.com.au/itm/393273618041?hash=item5b90ef2e79:g:qhoAAOSwlJVgh9Qa. Or just Google John Deere document tube, a unit without the lock would be about about 20 or so Aus dollars over here. SWMotech got a bunch of them and rebadged them and charged a lot more for them.
Tool tube should work fine, i run my front bracket to the outside bolt hole on the b&b rack, no stuffing around with extra bolts and brackets. With welding a bottom on the stand , just check that it isn't too far back on the heel before welding cause it can and well hit the swingarm. Cheers sir.
Mark, you need a longer bolt. should have at least one thread protruding from the nut. I really like the 10mm socket spacer, you'll always know you have a 10mm with you.
Hi man why you not using the spare hole on sub frame in stead of the mount bolt for luggage rack ? Plus it never good not getting the threads of bolt through the nut all the way they strip or pull the threads out of nut or bolt you mite get lucky but i would use the third hole on sub frame thats there all ready or maybe you not see it ?
Just an idea.. once that tool tube has weight in it, and the bike is bouncing over ruff terrain. The weight is going to be pulling down on that bracket, and if that bracket moves down it will turn the nut and basically loosen off the nut. Since the nut has so little thread that it's holding on with, even it moving a bit might be enough for it to come loose.
The lights were the MCX10 and they only draw 900mA @ 12V each, so 1.8A@12v for both. Normally use 12gague for anything 0-20A@12v, that is 2mm wire. Solo Cigarette Lighter Sockets, are generally 15A, if you get a combo they are normally 10A@12v and 2 USB up to 3.5A. 13.5A Total. But more importantly, is this inline fuse... as it is there for the wire, not the devices connected to them. As for flexibility, it depends generally you want the thinnest wire, as thicker stuff has less movement to it and can work harden faster, you had it sleaved any way so moot point of wear tear.
hence the post as i stated in last video i never run Aux lights on the OEM loom so not loading up the bike loom I ALWAYS run independent fused / switched loom 2 x switches i ONLY use KTM EXC CEV 3 position off/lo/hi type Honda on/off ignition type ALL my switches i dewire & solder heavier guage wire too match the loom wire i install which in general 16 - 10 AWG / 3.0mm-5.5mm pending on what load plan to put through it Both KTM 950SE & 1290SE i used a 8AWG / 6.3mm flexable silicone wire to run the BD 8" duel LP9's & 10" Onx6+ 218W / 34,510 lumens of light Also on my rally bikes i use a PDM60 power distribution modual (electronic fuese system) lot better fuse system not blowing fuses when trying fix out bush see my facecrap posts always noted when people ask about my lighting & Rally bike builds
Mark, I dont think the switch or its wires will hold up for running both the lights and charger outlet. The switch should be driving a 30amp relay. You up graded the wire size, great. then chocked it at the switch wires, and switch contacts. Love your work, keep on keeping me entertained.
One thing you haven't accounted for is the tire deflection. With rider and gear weight on the bike the tire will grow wider, bang goes the tool tube. But we'll see.
I use to use cheap lights for many years & always were shit on dirt road corners with no side post markers & light throw was very average i also had privalage to test lot lights from reps just a few brands off top head were various globes to led heatsink Hella IPF PIAA LightForce Lots cheap ebay crap lights Baja designs are expencive but are worth every $ Lighting you get what you pay for.
@@BikerBits I figured since the swingarm & chain guard usually don't contact other parts above it might be a safe spot. I've seen people mount plastic ammo boxes in that area of adventure bikes.
You are on the money with upgrading the wire that small wire is probably only a 10amp wire so if you run all your accessories as once you do run a chance of melting the wire
Why not just cut the b&b mount spacer and put it in between with a longer bolt instead with extra plates, bolts and spacer. If you understand what Iam trying to say. Good show.
Mark, you need a longer bolt. It appears to be only half way into the nut. You can't send a mate on a trip like that.
It's 1 thread in and not load bearing so it will be fine! :-)
@@BikerBits yeah, it’s not as if DRZ400s vibrate
Aussie ingenuity, 10mil socket as a spacer, good shit Mark 🤙
A bloody good job, you are being very through Mark....Hopefully see you next vid on MCT....keep safe...
You bastard , one minute I'm in bed asleep next minute , I'm in the lounge watching Biker Bits TV . Top effort as usual mate keep up the good work . 👍
im becoming a motorcycle mechanic right now and in vocational school i learned something recently that i cant exactly recall about wire thickness. basically what i remember is that you can go too thick. there is a formula to calculate how thick youre wire has to be. too thin is obviously bad, it can get too hot etc but too thick also isnt good. so maybe look that up, even if its not so important for this build i think this knowledge could help you out in future projects.
greetings from germany mate :)
I have a DRZ400 with the same tool tube set up and been down this road. The tube will flex down with the weight of tools and suspension causing the same issue with the wheel rubbing. I mounted an extra bracket at the top of the tube and then used a cable tie to mount around the rear rack thus stopping any flex. I also trimmed the plastic around the tube to allow for a little more room. It's a bloody tight fit.
Chappy, fit better foot pegs it will make your desert trip more comfortable and easier to handle. Pivot Pegz are Aussie made and the best option but even just wider ones will help.
Thanks again for your good work.
Great job Mark fits beaut 👍🇦🇺
Here's a tip Mark. On the lid of my tool tube, I drilled a small hole through the side of the cap into the thread when it was closed. I then inserted a split pin (size of the pin determined by how big a hole you drill) to hold the lid on. The split pin is easy to remove and place back in and has never looked close to coming out. Additionally, there is no need to tie anything to the split pin as it will happily sit there. Cheers!
Top job on the tool tube Mark, but I would put a slightly longer high tensile bolt on that bracket. As you know nothing is overkill when you're sitting on corrugated roads for a few hours!
Looks good Mark. Did a good job with the wiring last time always better to go safe on wiring allows to you add further accessories or higher powered ones in the future also. Bike is coming along great
I was just about to go to bed. Dammit. Loving the build btw
Nice one Mark...
Great video Mark, good stuff 👌
Nailed it Mark!😎 .
Workin late? Love the dedication, lol 👍👍👍
Turn the bolts around to point outward with the nuts.
Could cut the rack tube in half and fit in middle mate 👍🍻
Yea Mark i don't know why people buy pads for the stand , I always just tac a piece of steel on and works well , cheers Bazz.
You can heat up pvc with a heat gun and form it . Use thick gloves or a bit of wood to press it .
You can heat gun the tube make it oval shape like a muffler should solve the tire rub trouble.
If you have limited space on a bike for a tool tube, take a look at a John Deer document holder/tube, here is an ebay link for a modified one in Australia, modification is an over centre latch for a lock, but you can buy unmodified ones.
They are tough and offer better mounting options, I have two fitted inside my Rally Raid side racks on a CB500X, one each side www.ebay.com.au/itm/393273618041?hash=item5b90ef2e79:g:qhoAAOSwlJVgh9Qa.
Or just Google John Deere document tube, a unit without the lock would be about about 20 or so Aus dollars over here. SWMotech got a bunch of them and rebadged them and charged a lot more for them.
At least that’s one 10mm socket that won’t be lost lol
Tool tube should work fine, i run my front bracket to the outside bolt hole on the b&b rack, no stuffing around with extra bolts and brackets.
With welding a bottom on the stand , just check that it isn't too far back on the heel before welding cause it can and well hit the swingarm. Cheers sir.
Thanks Tex, yeah learnt the swingarm issue with MAX :-)
@@BikerBits sounds like i probably should've payed more attention to your video on max haha
Mark, you need a longer bolt. should have at least one thread protruding from the nut. I really like the 10mm socket spacer, you'll always know you have a 10mm with you.
Hi man why you not using the spare hole on sub frame in stead of the mount bolt for luggage rack ? Plus it never good not getting the threads of bolt through the nut all the way they strip or pull the threads out of nut or bolt you mite get lucky but i would use the third hole on sub frame thats there all ready or maybe you not see it ?
What make is that windshield? Gotta get me one.
Just an idea.. once that tool tube has weight in it, and the bike is bouncing over ruff terrain. The weight is going to be pulling down on that bracket, and if that bracket moves down it will turn the nut and basically loosen off the nut. Since the nut has so little thread that it's holding on with, even it moving a bit might be enough for it to come loose.
Hi Mark
could you have flatten the side with a heat gun to avoid the tyre hitting the tool tube?
Yeah that was an option that Nay also mentioned! 👍
Or run a brace and tool bag on the front fender. Not sure if he already had that or likes the idea.
Super cheap / Repco sell a product called a P clamp. You could use that and put around the sub frame? Or off the round part of the B and B rack?
He'll have to check his spacing every time if and when he drops the SDW on it's port side.
You had 6mm+ clearance already; the thickness of the plywood
The lights were the MCX10 and they only draw 900mA @ 12V each, so 1.8A@12v for both. Normally use 12gague for anything 0-20A@12v, that is 2mm wire.
Solo Cigarette Lighter Sockets, are generally 15A, if you get a combo they are normally 10A@12v and 2 USB up to 3.5A. 13.5A Total. But more importantly, is this inline fuse... as it is there for the wire, not the devices connected to them.
As for flexibility, it depends generally you want the thinnest wire, as thicker stuff has less movement to it and can work harden faster, you had it sleaved any way so moot point of wear tear.
Could you fit a bottle of rum in that tool tube? ...asking for a friend.
What tools go into tool tube... detail stock standards
can you mould it with a heat gun to get more clearence
Yeah that is an option!
hence the post as i stated in last video i never run Aux lights on the OEM loom so not loading up the bike loom
I ALWAYS run independent fused / switched loom
2 x switches i ONLY use
KTM EXC CEV 3 position off/lo/hi type
Honda on/off ignition type
ALL my switches i dewire & solder heavier guage wire too match the loom wire i install which in general 16 - 10 AWG / 3.0mm-5.5mm pending on what load plan to put through it
Both KTM 950SE & 1290SE i used a 8AWG / 6.3mm flexable silicone wire to run the BD 8" duel LP9's & 10" Onx6+ 218W / 34,510 lumens of light
Also on my rally bikes i use a PDM60 power distribution modual (electronic fuese system) lot better fuse system not blowing fuses when trying fix out bush
see my facecrap posts always noted when people ask about my lighting & Rally bike builds
Mark, I dont think the switch or its wires will hold up for running both the lights and charger outlet. The switch should be driving a 30amp relay. You up graded the wire size, great. then chocked it at the switch wires, and switch contacts.
Love your work, keep on keeping me entertained.
I think the larger wire is a good investment the cost is minimal and it will last many years.
One thing you haven't accounted for is the tire deflection. With rider and gear weight on the bike the tire will grow wider, bang goes the tool tube. But we'll see.
Dig your channel
The front bracket will pivot down with a single bolt either end. Also the rack bolt is 5mm too short now.
Yeah it can, but not by much. The nut has very little load on it as it is not load bearing so it will be fine! :-)
I use to use cheap lights for many years & always were shit on dirt road corners with no side post markers & light throw was very average
i also had privalage to test lot lights from reps just a few brands off top head were
various globes to led heatsink
Hella
IPF
PIAA
LightForce
Lots cheap ebay crap lights
Baja designs are expencive but are worth every $
Lighting you get what you pay for.
Has anyone ever thought about trying to mount the tool tube on the chain guard or swingarm?
Think it would have a bloody rough time down there! :-)
@@BikerBits I figured since the swingarm & chain guard usually don't contact other parts above it might be a safe spot. I've seen people mount plastic ammo boxes in that area of adventure bikes.
Here's one small example. th-cam.com/video/HeZmPgSpCus/w-d-xo.html
You are on the money with upgrading the wire that small wire is probably only a 10amp wire so if you run all your accessories as once you do run a chance of melting the wire
Why not just cut the b&b mount spacer and put it in between with a longer bolt instead with extra plates, bolts and spacer. If you understand what Iam trying to say. Good show.
I’m the 1st wooooohooooo