For those that do not like to use the OEM pinch clamps it is important to note that those claims provide evenly distributed pressure across the entire hose (Mechanical envelope). The screw style clamps while secure, pinch the hose tighter across the screw point, uneven pressure. If you can, stick to the clamps as provided by the MFG.
Also in general with any car, trying to get the initial air out of the cooling system after a flush or drain, squeeze the radiator hoses repeatedly to burp out any big pockets of air. You'd be surprised how much more coolant you can add after. Still need to do traditional bleeding but it saves a lot of time. Haven't had to do the system in my F22 yet but they also have a coolant hose prone to failure. Appreciate all the great content!
@@FritzRamos hey fritz! I was wondering because the n20 engine takes 8 quarts of coolant but in the vid, you only used roughly 4 quarts of coolant. Did the rest stay in the cooling system? Or does the coolant bleed do something that I’m not thinking of off the top of my head.
Have you considered vacuum filling? Doing some advance research before having to do it myself. Seems like the preferred method for the b48 from what I read. I’m assuming that’s what the dealer would do for n20s as well.
"And just like that we've increased the reliability of your N20 BMW".... Appreciate the video, but no you haven't. I know you don't realize yet, but you've broken a cardinal rule by using a worm clamp over a plastic neck (5:18), because it greatly increased the chances that you'll have a catastrophic coolant loss at a low part of the engine. Spring clamps not only provide even force all around, they also expand and contract with the plastic as it heats and cools. Worm clamps do not expand and eventually that plastic neck will crack or crumble after X amount of heat cycles. If the neck was made of metal, you'd be okay but not plastic, as it expands at much higher rate. Also, using sharp a metal pick to pull out that seal made me wince... perfect way to cause a scratch that will leak.
Puppy training pads work great to steer fluids to where you want it. I use the plastic lined side to funnel the fluids. Use the padded side under the drain pan. They're cheap and easy to work with. For the drain pan, I used a water heater drain pan sealed up with some duct tape. No spillage.
I also like to use the coolant jugs for storage rather than the distilled water jugs. One tip though: I sharpie the front of the original coolant jug to indicate that it is now 50/50 instead of 100% coolant. Because I will forget as it is usually months after the fact when I need it again and it's not always obvious peering into the container.
I’ve seen other vids where they drain from the lower radiator hose and the hose going into the water pump. Does your method drain the entire coolant from the system?
Draining the coolant is probably the most tideous task on these engines. I ended up replacing my serpentine belt and tensioner, because I pulled the hose from the cylinder head and just accepted my defeat at that point! 😅 Great Video!
I had my 2015 328i (base) for bout 3 years and so far I went through some standard gaskets such as oil filter housing and valve cover gasket, some sensors, new fuel pump, got about 90K miles on it now and lately my car’s been hesitating/lagging at low RPMs, especially in barely moving traffic, soon as I let go of the break and gas a little, the car would hesitate and then jump forward a lil all of a sudden, anyone has any idea what’s wrong? Also if there’s any BMW fanatics in the Florida area who’d can do a restoration project with me, pls feel free to hit me up, would like to make this car run like new again and change whatever I can without getting robbed at a BMW service center
@@miketran7374 Well I just drove it really, let the engine run as much as I could, that’s after the complete coils and spark plugs, liqui moly engine flush, gas treatment
Serious note, I upgraded mine 2 years ago and it seems like it’s starting to slowly seep from the bottoms of the flange, do you think the rubber gasket has gone bad on it?
This just went out on my e93 I ordered the aluminum end fitting and gonna install this weekend. Think I'm going to try to get rid of as much plastic on this car as I can
I’ve heard brass one might actually be worse. Potential to damage or melt in the threads. Also heard the plastic screw is supposed to be the weak point in the system, designed to break (somewhat like a fuse would for electrical systems) vs a tank or hose breaking in case of over heat/pressure (more complexity/$ for tank or hose compared to $5 plastic screw). In summary due to the potential for more problems when in search of a solution; I’ve decided on keeping a spare plastic one in my trunk. This is after having my plastic one break on the road almost leaving me stranded.
Hi Fritz, thank you for your videos. I learn so much and i am able to do so many diy tasks for my F30. Can you please tell me what type of coolant should i use? Can i go with BMW Lifetime Coolant 87? Thank you, GOD bless
By doing it this way do you not need to use an air compressor to get rid of the air bubbles in the system? Everywhere I seem to look says you need a compressor so you don’t get trapped air pockets
Excellent! I have the f30 b48 i have changed the charge pipe , brass screw, also swapped the small coolant hose that connects to the coolant tank with one that has metal connectors on both sides and a 4 ply high temp hose, not sure if b48 has to change the coolant flange or not not seen anyone else do it wonder if it needs doing?
For those that do not like to use the OEM pinch clamps it is important to note that those claims provide evenly distributed pressure across the entire hose (Mechanical envelope). The screw style clamps while secure, pinch the hose tighter across the screw point, uneven pressure. If you can, stick to the clamps as provided by the MFG.
They will always outlast the hose. Even true in this case.
They also maintain even clamping force around the hose as temperature changes cause expansion/contraction of the hose.
Also in general with any car, trying to get the initial air out of the cooling system after a flush or drain, squeeze the radiator hoses repeatedly to burp out any big pockets of air. You'd be surprised how much more coolant you can add after. Still need to do traditional bleeding but it saves a lot of time. Haven't had to do the system in my F22 yet but they also have a coolant hose prone to failure. Appreciate all the great content!
Thanks for sharing that tip! that's a good one, I'm sure it will speed up the overall bleed process.
Paused 40 seconds in to say I’m subscribing because of the block of cheese in your intro, I’m sure the video will be helpful though 🎉
Thanks Fritz!!!! Just one more thing to add to the list. 🙂🤣
No problem. BMW does this to us on purpose lol 😂
@@FritzRamos hey fritz! I was wondering because the n20 engine takes 8 quarts of coolant but in the vid, you only used roughly 4 quarts of coolant. Did the rest stay in the cooling system? Or does the coolant bleed do something that I’m not thinking of off the top of my head.
@@DuckMcDuckinson How's it going? It's more likely that there was still some coolant in the system since it wasn't drained at its lowest point.
Have you considered vacuum filling? Doing some advance research before having to do it myself. Seems like the preferred method for the b48 from what I read. I’m assuming that’s what the dealer would do for n20s as well.
Where can I buy these upgraded hoses and charge pipes for my bmw 320i 2017 (B48 Engine) ?
what diameter is the hose on this part?
I have a question after bleeding the coolant. It still makes the guging sound. It almost emptied my entire reservoir too
Was than an after market part ? Where can I find it
It is aftermarket. Here's the link: bit.ly/3u3vKrY
@@FritzRamos thank you
@@johnpena1758 anytime 👍
@@FritzRamos Is there a german link aswell?
@@FritzRamos Hey Fritz, The link only brings me to the hose connector. Do you have the link for the hose itself?
Do you have a link for the flange and hose or would fcp have it?
Here you go. bit.ly/3u3vKrY
I just wanted to warn you: don’t use URO parts. Especially for the cooling system.
Why’s that?
miles on this f30? looks good still...
Thanks 115k
@@FritzRamosdid you replace the transmission oil after 100k?
@@FritzRamosI'm also interested to know if you replaced transmission fluid?
Junbeleee clip
Do this applies for the f30 n55?
Yes. You'll just need the appropriate hose
@@FritzRamos thank you
"And just like that we've increased the reliability of your N20 BMW".... Appreciate the video, but no you haven't. I know you don't realize yet, but you've broken a cardinal rule by using a worm clamp over a plastic neck (5:18), because it greatly increased the chances that you'll have a catastrophic coolant loss at a low part of the engine. Spring clamps not only provide even force all around, they also expand and contract with the plastic as it heats and cools. Worm clamps do not expand and eventually that plastic neck will crack or crumble after X amount of heat cycles. If the neck was made of metal, you'd be okay but not plastic, as it expands at much higher rate. Also, using sharp a metal pick to pull out that seal made me wince... perfect way to cause a scratch that will leak.
Puppy training pads work great to steer fluids to where you want it. I use the plastic lined side to funnel the fluids. Use the padded side under the drain pan. They're cheap and easy to work with. For the drain pan, I used a water heater drain pan sealed up with some duct tape. No spillage.
I also like to use the coolant jugs for storage rather than the distilled water jugs. One tip though: I sharpie the front of the original coolant jug to indicate that it is now 50/50 instead of 100% coolant. Because I will forget as it is usually months after the fact when I need it again and it's not always obvious peering into the container.
Good tip especially if you have a few jugs. I usually only have one and if there is no seal on it that's my indicator that it's now 50/50.
记号笔标注写一下😂
I’ve seen other vids where they drain from the lower radiator hose and the hose going into the water pump. Does your method drain the entire coolant from the system?
Dude, your videos are amazing. So well done, thank you.
It's made out of plastic because it's designed to fail, preferably AFTER 100,000 miles
Draining the coolant is probably the most tideous task on these engines. I ended up replacing my serpentine belt and tensioner, because I pulled the hose from the cylinder head and just accepted my defeat at that point! 😅
Great Video!
Oh no! I wish there was a detachment mechanism for a clean draining method
Why not just wash the coolant off?
@@dma2811 Have fun with that
@@dma2811 nj3 c n d nu8vhch hdbb
@@dma2811 nnncnb
I had my 2015 328i (base) for bout 3 years and so far I went through some standard gaskets such as oil filter housing and valve cover gasket, some sensors, new fuel pump, got about 90K miles on it now and lately my car’s been hesitating/lagging at low RPMs, especially in barely moving traffic, soon as I let go of the break and gas a little, the car would hesitate and then jump forward a lil all of a sudden, anyone has any idea what’s wrong? Also if there’s any BMW fanatics in the Florida area who’d can do a restoration project with me, pls feel free to hit me up, would like to make this car run like new again and change whatever I can without getting robbed at a BMW service center
@vycma9941, I'm having the same issue, did you find the solution?
@@miketran7374 Well I just drove it really, let the engine run as much as I could, that’s after the complete coils and spark plugs, liqui moly engine flush, gas treatment
Serious note, I upgraded mine 2 years ago and it seems like it’s starting to slowly seep from the bottoms of the flange, do you think the rubber gasket has gone bad on it?
Man anytime you pop of a coolant hose on any bmw get ready for a coolant shower
Nice video fritz. My question for you is I have a 2013 bmw 328xi with 59000 miles should I do a coolant flush now or I should wait
We recommend them every 30k miles or 2 years
This just went out on my e93 I ordered the aluminum end fitting and gonna install this weekend. Think I'm going to try to get rid of as much plastic on this car as I can
你干了一件最正确的事👍
I’ve heard brass one might actually be worse. Potential to damage or melt in the threads. Also heard the plastic screw is supposed to be the weak point in the system, designed to break (somewhat like a fuse would for electrical systems) vs a tank or hose breaking in case of over heat/pressure (more complexity/$ for tank or hose compared to $5 plastic screw).
In summary due to the potential for more problems when in search of a solution; I’ve decided on keeping a spare plastic one in my trunk. This is after having my plastic one break on the road almost leaving me stranded.
they make it in aluminum
Everyone’s asking but where’s the link to the hose and flange combo? You only got the flange link up
Hi Fritz, thank you for your videos. I learn so much and i am able to do so many diy tasks for my F30. Can you please tell me what type of coolant should i use? Can i go with BMW Lifetime Coolant 87? Thank you, GOD bless
Awesome thanks so much Fritz.
Love your videos and your streams.
Nr1 DIY BMW channel handsdown!!!
By doing it this way do you not need to use an air compressor to get rid of the air bubbles in the system? Everywhere I seem to look says you need a compressor so you don’t get trapped air pockets
LOL the infamous mickey mouse ears and ya replace
Hi I have a 2015 bmw 328i base model. Could you tell me where to buy the parts? I live in riverside county
Mr Ramos on f30 models you have to drain the coolant from the coolant pump also known as the water pump.
Very good video but we didn't see how you actually put on the new flange to the pipe and tighten it!
It came pre-installed
@@FritzRamos Ah okay 👍
It doesn't deem like your link for the hoses still direct to the right item. Can you re-direct? Thank you.
Are you supposed to replace the hose too or just the flange? The link posted is just the flange.
I got foamy stuff in my reservoir. Also should I close cap and open screw or what please help!!
I'm pretty sure these are oil lines not coolant coolant doesn't go to the turbo
Excellent! I have the f30 b48 i have changed the charge pipe , brass screw, also swapped the small coolant hose that connects to the coolant tank with one that has metal connectors on both sides and a 4 ply high temp hose, not sure if b48 has to change the coolant flange or not not seen anyone else do it wonder if it needs doing?
Nice! Crucial preventative mod!
Thanks! Not the most exciting, but 1 that is necessary.
Do I hold the gas pedal the entire time (15 min) until it’s done making making the noise?
no, when it gets started (10sec) i will continue until done (just don't close/open doors, etc...) for 8+ min. have a charger if low/weak battery
w2c?
Thank you!