See description for links to replacement parts. //Update - it's over 3 years later and the furnace is still working fine. I honestly don't even notice any more propane use over the 18,000 BTU unvented infrared gas wall heater I used to have in there, which was 99% efficient according to the experts. I'm sure the furnace does use more. It's 30,000 BTUs and not nearly as efficient, but the difference in propane use isn't that noticeable to me for some reason. I think I'll skip getting a vented wall heater.
Great Video. I just completed replacing my sail switch, limit switch, circuit board, and igniter. I watched the video several times and could not have completed the job without your guidance ... Many Thanks!
Thanks, haven't pulled one of these in 25 years. really helped me remember how to get the furnace out of the box. So, the SF-40 goes in and out exactly the same way. Changed to a plug for the wiring. I had to replace a noise motor, you saved me an hour of dinking around....
Thank you. Awesome video, I was about to remove a bunch of screws and you taught me quickly just the one screw is needed to pull the core. I'm replacing the 20 year old core for $500 for preventive maintenance. It was starting to get noisy like bearings or something.
Thanks so much. Like others have said, after seeing numerous videos on furnace servicing, yours is the best! Gave me the confidence to start looking into why my NT-16SE is not heating.
@@MTMiser Just took the furnace out of its case, saw that sail & limit switches are operating fine, gas valve is opening but electrode still not sparking (had previously replaced it thinking it might be the problem). Now seems the only possibility is a defective board, so I ordered a new Dinosaur FanPlus50 unit just now. Hopefully that'll do the trick!
@@MTMiser Hello again. Am following up here for the benefit of anyone who might be having a similar problem. Seems there are a few glitches going on. After replacing the board, I now see a spark, but still no flame. Have now been testing the gas valve individually (using 12V source), seems gas is not passing through it (and yes, orifice is clean). Solenoids both seems to activate. Only possibility I can now see is a defective valve...but 150$CAD to replace is pricey! I'm close to pulling the trigger and getting a new valve, but I do wonder if perhaps I might have overlooked something... last other possibility is that my test gas setup pressure is too low (have set 0.5 PSI as per indications)...
@@jpvalois As far as I know the propane pressure in RVs is 11 inches of water column, which is equivalent to about 0.4 pounds per square inch. So it sounds like you're a little high there, but I don't know how (or if) that would affect it. Have you checked the limit switch? If the limit switch is tripped (or defective) it won't allow the gas valve to open. I wouldn't think it would allow a spark to be generated either though, so that's a bit confusing. Is this furnace out of the RV? If so, can you re-install it in the RV and test it in a real world scenario? If there's something wrong with your test setup, that should eliminate that problem.
Awesome job.!! This video is super helpful,it is as if a furnace " Professor" takes me on a journey that explains in detail how my RV furnace works. Thanks
THANKS FOR THE BREAK DOWN AND FULL DETAIL, MY FIRST TIME TRYING TO DIAGNOSE THE TRAILER FURNACE PROBLEM, AND YOU HAVE BEEN A GREAT HELP!! THANKS, GOOD VIDEO!
Thank you! Hopefully I won't need to use this video any time soon, but I'm glad it's here when I need it. You never reconnected the cat to the furnace, but no job is ever truly complete unless you have parts left over. ;)
Thank you very much you are very good I watched a lot of videos they don't go step by step they just say this part but I didn't show you how to take it apart thank you very much
I just bought a 97 rv with a suburban. Gonna mess with it later today. Heat is trying to kick on but then shuts off. I'm thinking maybe it a clogged orifice or just air in the system. Not really sure. It probably hasn't been used in awhile. Hopefully I can figure it out. But this video will help ! I don't think I'll have the side access thought. So hopefully I can get this out if need be. Thanks for the vid !
If the propane has been turned off it can take awhile for it to get back up to the furnace. Mine will try to light, fail, then it will automatically retry about 10 seconds later, repeat, repeat, and if not successful at some point it will not try any more. At that point I have to cut the 12v power for 15 seconds or so to reset it. Then try again. But yes, it could also be a clogged orifice. Good luck with it.....
@@MTMiser I got it working. I'm actually down in Florida with it. I didnt waste any time lol. I had to use the heat the other night for a bit. It was actually cold here. Thanks for the help!
Great, thorough video walkthrough. I've got an SF-42 that needs to be reinstalled into my 5th wheel. You skipped over the reinstall wiring procedure, which is really important to me because it entails hooking wires to some kind of black plug on the wall next to the furnace. I don't know if it's a relay switch or inverter or what. It's the size of two boxes of matches. Very confusing wiring process. I took photos before unhooking everything, but they proved useless.
It was very easy with mine, the wires had just been spliced together with wire nuts. It was just a matter of taking them apart and then reconnecting them by color with the same wire nuts. Someone must have had the furnace apart before.
Qui k question....... when replacing the cover should the upper tube line up or be a bit asku? Having trouble putting it back on perfectly lined up. Thank you
The cover on the side of your RV? As long as your screw holes line up you should be good. Leave them all loose until you get them all started, then tighten them down.
Maynard,,, "Great Video"... But shouldn't you pull the fan squirrel cage and cleaned it of any "Rust Dust" / "Crud" ??? Anyway's you did a Great Job explaining and taking your time showing the various step's for each parts removal... And getting the parts from Amazon sure is a lot cheaper than buying a whole new unit... Thank' s For Sharing !!!
Hi Jackson - yes, you're absolutely right. I should have done that. It occurred to me after I got it back together. It definitely is dirty and could use some cleaning. It's now one of the many things on my "to do" list. Thanks for the observation.
Thanks for the video, it is extremely helpful. I'm going to replace the same parts in my SF-35, but something seems odd to me. Do you have any idea how these units sense that the igniter has lit the flame? I'm thinking that the igniter itself has some sort of feedback circuit, but with only one wire it's hard to understand how it would work. Since the newer igniter is larger than the original, did you see any issues with it not shutting off the igniter after ignition?
Thanks for your comment, Tim. Good question. I'm really not sure how the unit senses the flame. There is no flame sensor like in a household furnace, that I could see anyway. I could guess that maybe there's something built into the limit switch that senses heat at the low end as well as the high end, but I'd be only guessing. I did not have any issues with the ignitor not shutting off after the flame was lit. So whatever is sensing it is definitely working.
what a great video!!! my ignitor has 2 wires with 2 porcelin type tubes . one that looks like a sparkplug wire from a coil but what does the other wire do. is it a ground???
No idea. The only thing that comes to mind is possibly your ignitor doubles as a flame sensor, which is what the other wire is for? I'm really not sure.
Great video! My furnace use to work, but now when I turn it on, 15amp fuse blows in my bedroom fuse box. I'm thinking maybe stuck blower motor or bad circuit board Any advice will be appreciated. So I been using heat strip on ac unit to get warm..
Bad blower motor or something keeping the squirrel cage from turning would be my first guess. Twice I've turned mine on to hear some gawd-awful noises coming from the squirrel cage. Turned out to be mice trying to nest in there. Open it up and see if the cage is turning freely. Sorry I didn't reply sooner - didn't see this comment for some reason.
Found rust particles in the orifice and line partially blocking the orifice. Gotta love high moisture lpg. Guess I'll start looking for auto gas propane.
i had to remove the tube from the regulator to the orifice. once i got the orifice out i ran a wire brush in the tube to remove any loose rust then i cleared the orifice. then blew it out. look at time stamp 11:37 in video.
I think I just used window and door caulk. The exhaust port gets warm but I don't think it gets hot enough to be a problem for the caulk. But upon further investigation - I see others recommending muffler paste or High Temp Silicone RTV. That said, I haven't noticed any problems with my vent seal and it's gotten quite a bit of use this winter.
Thanks Edgar. Yes, I have another video out there of a house furnace I made repairs to (Lennox WhisperHeat G20 - th-cam.com/video/lrfA2wEi4N4/w-d-xo.html . And I have worked on other appliances in the past (refrigerator, washer, dryer) but that was before I was making videos. If I work on any others I'll make a video of it.
If i disconnect my heater, my ac/fan doesnt work anymore. I assume when plugged in, it is gaining continuity through the circuit board. I dont want to go crossing wires and short my thermostat, and I am hoping to sell the heater, so I don't want to simply gut the circuit board to make it work without risking anything. (Heater works just removing to make room for residential fridge). So, my question is do you happen to know how to jump the circuit so you can use the AC/fan without the heater installed? Thank you
To clarify i have the same color wiring as you, mine is in a 96 jayco. I have two small guage wires from the thermostat, i assume, and some +/- from my 12v circuits. Not sure how thermostats work, but is it a simple cross of the thermostat wires?
Actual just ran continuity through the plug attached to the board and it looks like like its pretty simple...12v + to + thermostat and same for ground. Makes sense. If i dont comment again on the results, then do not attempt this.
@@crossbowchris3676 All I know is that the two blue wires coming from the control board connect to the thermostat. And when the thermostat calls for heat, the connection between those two wires in the thermostat is closed. So I would say yes, it's a simple cross of those two wires. There are other wires coming from the thermostat though, for the a/c and power. I haven't dealt with those so couldn't say.
In trying to repair mine, of course I lost that brass fitting that connects the gas lines. Its the part that had the circle at the end. Do you know the name of that part so I can reorder it on Amazon?
Hi Tara - If you're talking about the adapter I had to remove to get the furnace out of the box, it is a female flare to male flare adapter, but unfortunately I am not sure about the sizes and I'm away from home so can't look at it. If I had to guess, I'd say it's a 3/8" female flare by 1/2" male flare adapter. Here is one on Amazon. amzn.to/3FsEA6S But I might be wrong about those sizes. I can double-check when I get home but that would be Tuesday at the earliest. Note - this is an affiliate link so I will get a small commission if you use this link to buy it, but there is no increased cost to you.
@@MTMiser Ty you so much for replying and I will absolutely use your link. Sadly thats not the part I was referring to though. It was the smaller piece I was referring too. Im going to rewatch your video and give a timestamp when its showed...
Its at 5:42 in the video right after you take that adapter piece off and its that brass part on the left side with a circular end. Thats the piece I lost. Thanks again so much for your help...
@@Tlee6375 Oh, ok....that's a male flare fitting, and It's probably 3/8" but, again, I'm not sure since I'm not home. Also I'm unsure of what the other end of it is since I never took mine off. I can look at mine on Tuesday if you can wait that long. If not, take a look at your furnace where that fitting screws on and determine what size and kind of a connection that is. Also look at the end of the propane line that screws into the fitting and determine its size (it will almost certainly be a flare fitting). Sorry I can't be of more help right now.
Possibly a blockage in the airway? When I took mine apart I found 3 wasp nests in there. Good luck, Larry. When you get it resolved come back and let us know what you found.
I've got the exact symptoms. Tries to ignite but cannot. There has been wasp activity. Haha. Hey, is it a bad idea to put a quarter turn shutoff valve inline with the supply and the furnace?
I don't think it's a bad idea at all. But where would you put it so you could access it quickly if you needed to? On my rig it would probably be just as fast to shut off the propane valves at the tanks.
I would definitely try it. You might want to look into what a replacement motor would cost, if they are available. Or maybe you could get away with replacing the defective bearings. But if it was me I'd look at that first before replacing the entire heater just to save money.
I can't say for sure, but I highly doubt it. The thermostat just connects them to each other when it calls for heat. If it did matter, I'd think they would have made them different colors.
Hi Mark, and thanks for your comment. The fan has never given me any trouble (except when I started it up with a mouse in it once - wow, what a racket that made!). And it has survived two more seasons since this video was made without any issue. If it does fail at some point, removing the furnace again is super easy.
As far as I recall the 4 wires coming out of the furnace connected as follows: both blue wires went to separate red wires, yellow went to white and red went to black. I'll double check that if I get some time.
Maynard the Miser , we have a small red wire, two yellow and two white from the thermostat. We may pull the furnace today to see if we are missing some wires. Looks like someone has replaced wires at some point maybe
Not much, lol. The limit switch, fuel valve, motor, heat exchanger and squirrel cage were all good. I didn't mention it in the video, but I think the circuit board electronics may have been damaged by a mouse getting flung into it. I'd started the heater up one day only to hear some god awful racket coming from it until it suddenly stopped. After that, it was quiet and seemed to blow air fine but it wouldn't heat. Never did find the mouse, but he left plenty of evidence behind.
Why replace it when there's nothing wrong with it? We've gotten 5 good yeas of use out of this heater since this video was made. If it was bad, it would set off our CO detectors.
These things are just a collection of parts, like most things are. When things break or start going bad, I replace parts, not the entire - whatever it is - unless it's too far gone to make sense. In the process I learn how it works, and if it breaks again I will have a better idea of what's wrong and how to fix it. You don't get that benefit if you just tear out and replace the entire unit. The parts I replaced on this cost a total of $125. And five years later it's still working great. I never did understand why people want to replace entire units when it would be a great learning experience and so much less expensive to replace the actual parts that are broken. But to each his/her own.
See description for links to replacement parts.
//Update - it's over 3 years later and the furnace is still working fine. I honestly don't even notice any more propane use over the 18,000 BTU unvented infrared gas wall heater I used to have in there, which was 99% efficient according to the experts. I'm sure the furnace does use more. It's 30,000 BTUs and not nearly as efficient, but the difference in propane use isn't that noticeable to me for some reason. I think I'll skip getting a vented wall heater.
I use my propane furnace all the time, I prefer it.
Pretty sure my sail switch is defective.
I actually banged it and it came on.
Replacing the motor on a furnace
here it is October 2023 and your fantastic video is STILL VERY RELEVANT and educational!
WELL DONE! and thanks so much!!
Great Video. I just completed replacing my sail switch, limit switch, circuit board, and igniter. I watched the video several times and could not have completed the job without your guidance ... Many Thanks!
Glad it helped you Thomas.
Thanks, haven't pulled one of these in 25 years. really helped me remember how to get the furnace out of the box. So, the SF-40 goes in and out exactly the same way. Changed to a plug for the wiring. I had to replace a noise motor, you saved me an hour of dinking around....
Glad it helped you Roy.
The best video I have seen on servicing an RV Heater. Great Job!
Thanks Pat!
Thank you. Awesome video, I was about to remove a bunch of screws and you taught me quickly just the one screw is needed to pull the core. I'm replacing the 20 year old core for $500 for preventive maintenance. It was starting to get noisy like bearings or something.
Thanks so much. Like others have said, after seeing numerous videos on furnace servicing, yours is the best! Gave me the confidence to start looking into why my NT-16SE is not heating.
Good luck - hope you get it figured out.
@@MTMiser Just took the furnace out of its case, saw that sail & limit switches are operating fine, gas valve is opening but electrode still not sparking (had previously replaced it thinking it might be the problem). Now seems the only possibility is a defective board, so I ordered a new Dinosaur FanPlus50 unit just now. Hopefully that'll do the trick!
@@jpvalois I hope that fixes it. Good luck.
@@MTMiser Hello again. Am following up here for the benefit of anyone who might be having a similar problem. Seems there are a few glitches going on. After replacing the board, I now see a spark, but still no flame. Have now been testing the gas valve individually (using 12V source), seems gas is not passing through it (and yes, orifice is clean). Solenoids both seems to activate. Only possibility I can now see is a defective valve...but 150$CAD to replace is pricey! I'm close to pulling the trigger and getting a new valve, but I do wonder if perhaps I might have overlooked something... last other possibility is that my test gas setup pressure is too low (have set 0.5 PSI as per indications)...
@@jpvalois As far as I know the propane pressure in RVs is 11 inches of water column, which is equivalent to about 0.4 pounds per square inch. So it sounds like you're a little high there, but I don't know how (or if) that would affect it. Have you checked the limit switch? If the limit switch is tripped (or defective) it won't allow the gas valve to open. I wouldn't think it would allow a spark to be generated either though, so that's a bit confusing. Is this furnace out of the RV? If so, can you re-install it in the RV and test it in a real world scenario? If there's something wrong with your test setup, that should eliminate that problem.
Your video has been the best video I’ve found. Thank you
Thanks Merlin!
Thanks friend. Your furnace video guided me to a successful R@R on our RV. Once again......thanks.
You're welcome. Glad it was able to help you out.
Excellent, I am no longer afraid to maintain my furnace, strange how easy something can be when someone shows you how
Best video on youtube so far. Fantastic detail from beginning to end. Thank you Maynard.
Thanks Jack! I appreciate that.
Awesome job.!! This video is super helpful,it is as if a furnace " Professor" takes me on a journey that explains in detail how my RV furnace works. Thanks
Thanks colonel! Glad you liked it.
Very good video. It takes time to make a video like that having the right angle to have good images. Thank you
Thanks Daniel. Glad you liked it.
THANKS FOR THE BREAK DOWN AND FULL DETAIL, MY FIRST TIME TRYING TO DIAGNOSE THE TRAILER FURNACE PROBLEM, AND YOU HAVE BEEN A GREAT HELP!! THANKS, GOOD VIDEO!
Thanks Vic!
Thank you! Hopefully I won't need to use this video any time soon, but I'm glad it's here when I need it. You never reconnected the cat to the furnace, but no job is ever truly complete unless you have parts left over. ;)
Thank you Maynard, my family and I appreciate your help sir!
Thank you soooo very much!!! The best video for a Suburban SF-30 I have seen! I truly appreciate it!
You're welcome Zan - I hope it helped you out.
Good, clear information and steady camera work. Well done.
Thank you very much you are very good I watched a lot of videos they don't go step by step they just say this part but I didn't show you how to take it apart thank you very much
Great Video. I need to go over my own furnace as well.
Well done instructional video. Also that NC700 looks very nice as well. Good job and thanks for sharing!
Thanks! I love my NC! It's a great bike.
Nice video, Winter humidity is definitely a issue for full time rving. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for sharing this Maynard. Much appreciated.
Mr. Maynard The Miser GREAT video! I was able to use all that you taught me.
🙏🏼🥇🏆
Glad it helped you SpanishLittleBird ZAPATA!
Fantastic breakdown and explanation. Bravo!
Thanks tjisole, glad you liked it!
Thanks Maynard! This really helped me!
You're welcome, Rusty. Glad it helped you out.
Amazing! This helped me fix mine with ease!
I just bought a 97 rv with a suburban. Gonna mess with it later today. Heat is trying to kick on but then shuts off. I'm thinking maybe it a clogged orifice or just air in the system. Not really sure. It probably hasn't been used in awhile. Hopefully I can figure it out. But this video will help ! I don't think I'll have the side access thought. So hopefully I can get this out if need be. Thanks for the vid !
If the propane has been turned off it can take awhile for it to get back up to the furnace. Mine will try to light, fail, then it will automatically retry about 10 seconds later, repeat, repeat, and if not successful at some point it will not try any more. At that point I have to cut the 12v power for 15 seconds or so to reset it. Then try again. But yes, it could also be a clogged orifice. Good luck with it.....
@@MTMiser I got it working. I'm actually down in Florida with it. I didnt waste any time lol. I had to use the heat the other night for a bit. It was actually cold here. Thanks for the help!
Thanks for the video in the process of doing the same thing
Fantastic tutorial
Great video, mine is 2006 suburban sail switch and high limit switch are universal in most models I would think.
Thanks for sharing beautifully explained
Great video, thank you for helping us out.
You're welcome Justin.
Verry nice clear and complete video, Thanks so much, you have a Super day... Casey KJ6SSB Clovis, California
Thanks Casey.
Glad I found your channel. Very informative. SUBSCRIBED.
Great, thorough video walkthrough. I've got an SF-42 that needs to be reinstalled into my 5th wheel. You skipped over the reinstall wiring procedure, which is really important to me because it entails hooking wires to some kind of black plug on the wall next to the furnace. I don't know if it's a relay switch or inverter or what. It's the size of two boxes of matches. Very confusing wiring process. I took photos before unhooking everything, but they proved useless.
It was very easy with mine, the wires had just been spliced together with wire nuts. It was just a matter of taking them apart and then reconnecting them by color with the same wire nuts. Someone must have had the furnace apart before.
Excellent job, good explanations and good video work as well.
Thanks Douglas!
Qui k question....... when replacing the cover should the upper tube line up or be a bit asku? Having trouble putting it back on perfectly lined up. Thank you
The cover on the side of your RV? As long as your screw holes line up you should be good. Leave them all loose until you get them all started, then tighten them down.
Great Video thanks .
Very well done video.... ty
Maynard,,, "Great Video"... But shouldn't you pull the fan squirrel cage and cleaned it of any "Rust Dust" / "Crud" ??? Anyway's you did a Great Job explaining and taking your time showing the various step's for each parts removal... And getting the parts from Amazon sure is a lot cheaper than buying a whole new unit... Thank' s For Sharing !!!
Hi Jackson - yes, you're absolutely right. I should have done that. It occurred to me after I got it back together. It definitely is dirty and could use some cleaning. It's now one of the many things on my "to do" list. Thanks for the observation.
Put the cover on and pretend you painted it 😊
very good presentation., Thanks.
Thanks for the video, it is extremely helpful. I'm going to replace the same parts in my SF-35, but something seems odd to me. Do you have any idea how these units sense that the igniter has lit the flame? I'm thinking that the igniter itself has some sort of feedback circuit, but with only one wire it's hard to understand how it would work. Since the newer igniter is larger than the original, did you see any issues with it not shutting off the igniter after ignition?
Thanks for your comment, Tim. Good question. I'm really not sure how the unit senses the flame. There is no flame sensor like in a household furnace, that I could see anyway. I could guess that maybe there's something built into the limit switch that senses heat at the low end as well as the high end, but I'd be only guessing. I did not have any issues with the ignitor not shutting off after the flame was lit. So whatever is sensing it is definitely working.
what a great video!!! my ignitor has 2 wires with 2 porcelin type tubes . one that looks like a sparkplug wire from a coil but what does the other wire do. is it a ground???
No idea. The only thing that comes to mind is possibly your ignitor doubles as a flame sensor, which is what the other wire is for? I'm really not sure.
@@MTMiser thanks!!!! Great video!!!
Great video! My furnace use to work, but now when I turn it on, 15amp fuse blows in my bedroom fuse box. I'm thinking maybe stuck blower motor or bad circuit board Any advice will be appreciated. So I been using heat strip on ac unit to get warm..
Bad blower motor or something keeping the squirrel cage from turning would be my first guess. Twice I've turned mine on to hear some gawd-awful noises coming from the squirrel cage. Turned out to be mice trying to nest in there. Open it up and see if the cage is turning freely. Sorry I didn't reply sooner - didn't see this comment for some reason.
Quite helpful... thank you
disconnect cat from furnace, got it!
Lol...
Found rust particles in the orifice and line partially blocking the orifice. Gotta love high moisture lpg. Guess I'll start looking for auto gas propane.
Glad you found the problem Larry. Good luck...
We're you able to clean it out? If so, did you used compressed air, or is there a better cleaning method for clearing the orifice/supply
i had to remove the tube from the regulator to the orifice. once i got the orifice out i ran a wire brush in the tube to remove any loose rust then i cleared the orifice. then blew it out. look at time stamp 11:37 in video.
larry reno thank you for elaborating!
Very helpful. Thanx
What type caulking do you use to put around the two pipes when you put the outside cover back on the RV
I think I just used window and door caulk. The exhaust port gets warm but I don't think it gets hot enough to be a problem for the caulk. But upon further investigation - I see others recommending muffler paste or High Temp Silicone RTV. That said, I haven't noticed any problems with my vent seal and it's gotten quite a bit of use this winter.
Thanks! I learn a lot
You're welcome, Joe!
really good video and yes! the best I have seen too,... can you check other appliances ?
Thanks Edgar. Yes, I have another video out there of a house furnace I made repairs to (Lennox WhisperHeat G20 - th-cam.com/video/lrfA2wEi4N4/w-d-xo.html . And I have worked on other appliances in the past (refrigerator, washer, dryer) but that was before I was making videos. If I work on any others I'll make a video of it.
If i disconnect my heater, my ac/fan doesnt work anymore. I assume when plugged in, it is gaining continuity through the circuit board.
I dont want to go crossing wires and short my thermostat, and I am hoping to sell the heater, so I don't want to simply gut the circuit board to make it work without risking anything. (Heater works just removing to make room for residential fridge).
So, my question is do you happen to know how to jump the circuit so you can use the AC/fan without the heater installed?
Thank you
To clarify i have the same color wiring as you, mine is in a 96 jayco.
I have two small guage wires from the thermostat, i assume, and some +/- from my 12v circuits.
Not sure how thermostats work, but is it a simple cross of the thermostat wires?
Actual just ran continuity through the plug attached to the board and it looks like like its pretty simple...12v + to + thermostat and same for ground. Makes sense. If i dont comment again on the results, then do not attempt this.
@@crossbowchris3676 All I know is that the two blue wires coming from the control board connect to the thermostat. And when the thermostat calls for heat, the connection between those two wires in the thermostat is closed. So I would say yes, it's a simple cross of those two wires. There are other wires coming from the thermostat though, for the a/c and power. I haven't dealt with those so couldn't say.
In trying to repair mine, of course I lost that brass fitting that connects the gas lines. Its the part that had the circle at the end. Do you know the name of that part so I can reorder it on Amazon?
Hi Tara - If you're talking about the adapter I had to remove to get the furnace out of the box, it is a female flare to male flare adapter, but unfortunately I am not sure about the sizes and I'm away from home so can't look at it. If I had to guess, I'd say it's a 3/8" female flare by 1/2" male flare adapter. Here is one on Amazon. amzn.to/3FsEA6S But I might be wrong about those sizes. I can double-check when I get home but that would be Tuesday at the earliest. Note - this is an affiliate link so I will get a small commission if you use this link to buy it, but there is no increased cost to you.
@@MTMiser Ty you so much for replying and I will absolutely use your link. Sadly thats not the part I was referring to though. It was the smaller piece I was referring too. Im going to rewatch your video and give a timestamp when its showed...
Its at 5:42 in the video right after you take that adapter piece off and its that brass part on the left side with a circular end. Thats the piece I lost.
Thanks again so much for your help...
@@Tlee6375 Oh, ok....that's a male flare fitting, and It's probably 3/8" but, again, I'm not sure since I'm not home. Also I'm unsure of what the other end of it is since I never took mine off. I can look at mine on Tuesday if you can wait that long. If not, take a look at your furnace where that fitting screws on and determine what size and kind of a connection that is. Also look at the end of the propane line that screws into the fitting and determine its size (it will almost certainly be a flare fitting). Sorry I can't be of more help right now.
@@MTMiser thank you so kindly, ill look into that right away.
Great video! Now I've got to tackle my problem... Gas valve opens, igniter ticks but no combustion.
Possibly a blockage in the airway? When I took mine apart I found 3 wasp nests in there. Good luck, Larry. When you get it resolved come back and let us know what you found.
I've got the exact symptoms. Tries to ignite but cannot. There has been wasp activity. Haha.
Hey, is it a bad idea to put a quarter turn shutoff valve inline with the supply and the furnace?
Also, I have the suburban SF-20 and I have trouble scrounging up parts for this exact model.
I don't think it's a bad idea at all. But where would you put it so you could access it quickly if you needed to? On my rig it would probably be just as fast to shut off the propane valves at the tanks.
Did you end up putting an inline shutoff valve in? If so what size did you get?
You got to be so hard over this !!!
Maynard, my heater works ok, but sounds like I gave a fan bearing(s) going out. Is the motor replaceable by a DIY’er?
I would definitely try it. You might want to look into what a replacement motor would cost, if they are available. Or maybe you could get away with replacing the defective bearings. But if it was me I'd look at that first before replacing the entire heater just to save money.
Got the motor @ $140 + shipping. Using your video as guide to pull the heater.
Thank you for the info..
You're welcome, Doug - hope it was able to help you.
Does it matter if the 2 blue wires are switched when reconnecting?
I can't say for sure, but I highly doubt it. The thermostat just connects them to each other when it calls for heat. If it did matter, I'd think they would have made them different colors.
In my opinion, you should have replaced the Fan, as a preventative maintenance measure. Hope I am wrong.🙂
Hi Mark, and thanks for your comment. The fan has never given me any trouble (except when I started it up with a mouse in it once - wow, what a racket that made!). And it has survived two more seasons since this video was made without any issue. If it does fail at some point, removing the furnace again is super easy.
Can you please tell me what color wires connect to the two blue red and yellow to the furnace?
As far as I recall the 4 wires coming out of the furnace connected as follows: both blue wires went to separate red wires, yellow went to white and red went to black. I'll double check that if I get some time.
Maynard the Miser , we have a small red wire, two yellow and two white from the thermostat. We may pull the furnace today to see if we are missing some wires. Looks like someone has replaced wires at some point maybe
Yeah maybe someone did. That's nothing like mine.
Thanks I think we got it figured out!
Glad to hear that!
Question where did you get the parts from ???
All from Amazon. I'll put links in the description.
Super I like Amazon a bunch, Have a super Day...
Do you know if they sell an ignitor that is the same as the original
So what wasn't broken in there.
Not much, lol. The limit switch, fuel valve, motor, heat exchanger and squirrel cage were all good. I didn't mention it in the video, but I think the circuit board electronics may have been damaged by a mouse getting flung into it. I'd started the heater up one day only to hear some god awful racket coming from it until it suddenly stopped. After that, it was quiet and seemed to blow air fine but it wouldn't heat. Never did find the mouse, but he left plenty of evidence behind.
Pine pine pine pine pine...Alpine. 🤔😉
With the looks of that heat exchanger furnace should have been replaced!!
Why replace it when there's nothing wrong with it? We've gotten 5 good yeas of use out of this heater since this video was made. If it was bad, it would set off our CO detectors.
A new furnace is only about $400 to $600 dollars, but I guess it's okay to ride it until the wheels fall off
These things are just a collection of parts, like most things are. When things break or start going bad, I replace parts, not the entire - whatever it is - unless it's too far gone to make sense. In the process I learn how it works, and if it breaks again I will have a better idea of what's wrong and how to fix it. You don't get that benefit if you just tear out and replace the entire unit. The parts I replaced on this cost a total of $125. And five years later it's still working great. I never did understand why people want to replace entire units when it would be a great learning experience and so much less expensive to replace the actual parts that are broken. But to each his/her own.
@@MTMiser I salute you
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