some interesting things ive noticed about these motors... the little plastic thing with the rubber washer i think is a slinger to keep water from the shaft off the bearing as a last barrier of protection on the OUTSIDE shaft, however the shaft going to the evaporator doesnt have that, and thats the one that failed. as well i think the boot being torn is the least of anyones worry because if you look at the motors theres weep holes at the bottoms but they are on the faces usually just above the bottom of the motor in its mounted position, i think the boot being torn just gives any moisture that does find its way into the motor a way out. as well clean the shafts i used a sanding medium for drywall and it did great its this mesh stuff, made it so the bearing dropped right on and only had to be tapped home half an inch. its interesting too this newer model they went nuts inside with labels mine with 410a has nothing not even that one about the fan taking fingers lol
I also have a GE window AC that has got very loud, and its a 2018. I have to clean the grime out with a hose and sadly water gets in the bearing. I should have tested it BEFORE i got it all buttoned up in the window just today and I would have realized it's louder than ever. well now i know, and now i get to do exactly what you did here. I like the wood trick to get the bearings on.
I wrap plastic around the motors or take it out before hosing it. If water gets in the bearings, they're ruined. It's not too hard to change bearings in this one. Good luck
@@airconditionersexposed Well after puling the cap off of the motor i realized they made this purposefully difficult if not impossible. theres a circuit board hard soldered to the stator inside the motor that wont let me get the rotor out. And with upper 80 temps allready here we just decided to buy a new one. I'll clean this new one dry i guess
Notice all the grease that has exited from the original bearings. I had an appliance salesman tell me to avoid running it on HIGH FAN setting more than 10 minutes. Maybe he knew the bearings will overheat and expel the grease. Any mention in the Owner's Manual about NO CONTINUOUS RUNNING ON HIGH?
Thanks to your video, I'm currently tackling a 2011 model AEC08LYL1 GE window unit with bearing noise. This unit is set up identically to the one in the video and thus the procedure was the same. One 608Z bearing was definitely bad (evidence of water infiltration and tell-tale rust marks on bearing shield), while the other bearing was fine. I'm thinking that it's moisture killing the bearings and thus that the 608-2RS (bearing with 2 radial dust shields) is optimal for the replacements. Here's a tip: If you want to avoid having to tap or press the new bearings in place on the armature shaft, simply drop the armature into the freezer and warm the bearings with a hair dryer before installing them...they'll just drop onto the shaft.
@@jamesturnure9735 Thanks for the tip, I'll try that next time I change bearings. The way I'm tapping them on definitely isn't optimal. It would be nice to have a press to press them on.
@@airconditionersexposed Placing a washer over the inner race of the bearing works also to protect the shield or dust cover. Then you can tap it home with a 10mm deep socket if that’s more convenient.
Bearings arrived early so they're installed and it's all back together. I did note that the rubber wire harness esculder was badly torn at the entry point to the motor housing. I applied a coating of RTV and then wrapped the area with electrical tape before reassembling. This probably isn't critical, but figured it was just one more point for moisture entry. Also noted the motor does have a 1/4" weep hole and it orients downward once the motor is installed. Whole job took just over an hour and the unit is working flawlessly now thanks to @airconditionersexposed !
@@jamesturnure9735 Glad you got it fixed. The boot should be fine if you taped it. I suspect water seeps into the bearing by the spindle much of the time.
That's sad that a unit from 2019 already needs this kind of work, meanwhile my 1999 WCI Frigidaire is still running perfectly with nothing more then being cleaned once.
What’s sad is everything that we buy is cheap junk from China that we are spending hard earned money on. Whatever president gets in next, I hope they will concentrate on bringing jobs back to America and hopefully we can once again build quality items right here.
I have a 2013 GE AEL18DSQ1 (18,000 BTU) unit. Looks similar to the unit you replaced the bearings. Can you provide instructions on recharging the coolant on these units. Mainly just need to know what is the high and low side lines so I can attach a port to the low side.
what are the chances you having the link on where you bought your bearing! i have same model and trying to do the same thing. I search 608,608z,608zz and 608rs, not sure which is better as far as metal or rubber part. Thanks in advance
I've been using HCH brand from ebay, the 'rs' with rubber seals. The seller is JSB Great Bearings. You can use the shielded zz or the sealed rs. I don't really know the longevity of them, only using them for a year, they seem decent quality and inexpensive. The sealed should keep out water better. You can get koyo bearings from Japan on there, they cost more but probably better quality. Just avoid the generic bearings from China, they're really bad.
Because there's no provision for regreasing the shielded (Z or ZZ) bearings, I would think that the radial-seal design would provide more longevity in this application. I'll be tackling this exact same model with the same problem and will be using the 608-2RS. Great video...thank you!
@airconditionersexposed sounds just like that, I'll change bearings as well and clean up rust since I already have it took apart, thank you for responding!!
Hey! So I have exact same air conditioner; but the fan doesn't spin/turn on at all. Could it still just need new bearings? Or probably the whole fan motor is fried??
If the motor hums but doesn't turn then most likely the bearings are seized and need to be replaced. Also possible the bearings seized on you and the motor kept running and overheated and was ruined. I would try applying lube to both sides of the motor shaft and forcibly spinning it by hand to get the lube in there, then turn on power and see if it works.
I found this exact unit, model AEG10AZL1, on the side of the road about a month ago. Plugged it in, and the fan motor wouldn't budge. I removed the 3-sided sheet metal exterior, separated the upper foam shroud from the lower to access blower fan wheel. Still couldn't get the motor shaft to budge. Using a 10mm socket on a 3" extension, I removed the nut, lock washer, and flat washer from the shaft and, with a gentle touch, worked the blower fan from the shaft. With the blower fan out of the way, I put the nut back on the motor and, with a few modest taps of a small brass hammer, the fan shaft was free! After reinstalling the blower fan, I ran the unit, first with the compressor to verify cooling, then on FAN MED for 4 hours. At first i thought the motor sounded like its bearings were out of tolerance. But, upon replacing the upper foam shroud, found the unit to sound as quiet as could be expected. Takeaway: These manufacturers need to stop wasting time integrating wi-fi into simple appliances, and focus their attention on the quality of the mechanical parts. 🙄 engineered to fail.
I label each wire with masking tape and draw a diagram. I can't see the colors well. Sometimes it's better to pry the connectors up with a screwdriver if they don't wiggle off too easily.
Every a/c model and motor is different. My Haier motor is noisy. I took everything apart to access the motor. But the damn motor is not held together with bolts and nuts; it just has 4 metal tabs holding the two halves together. So I am afraid to pry the metal tabs because the metal might break, then I won't be able to put the motor back together. I hope the manufacturer is happy they saved a few cents by not using nuts and bolts. A$$holes. I can't even find a replacement motor for sale; even if I could they cost like $60. So my choices are a) leave motor assembled and lube the crap out of the bearings and hope for the best or b) risk prying the tabs and breaking them rendering the motor and therefore the entire a/c a piece of junk. FUN TIMES! I've already oiled the motor twice over the past week. The lube gets the motor turning but it lasted only 2 days each time before it started seizing and making noise. One problem is the humidity is very high now with dewpoint at 75 degrees F! You're gonna get condensation in the motor. I've replaced bearings on another window a/c with no problems. Hassle but it worked. Another problem you might encounter on this job is getting the fan and blower wheel off the motor shaft. Sometimes they get stuck and it's a huge pain to remove them. I had to rent a bearing puller once from auto parts store remove a fan from the shaft. The lesson I've learned is bearings are cheap but installing them can be a HUGE hassle. You have to decide if it's worth the effort. I HATE waste so I hate to junk an a/c just because of seized bearings. But I might not have a choice with my Haier.
The tabs usually don't break if it's not rusty. Pry them carefully just enough to clear it. Some of the small cheap motors make a slight raspy noise which doesn't improve much by changing the bearings. I'm not sure what causes it exactly. Yes, getting the blades off can be torture. If it's really noisy and it's definitely bearing noise, you may as well try it.
@@airconditionersexposed Thanks but I opted to play it safe; I just oiled the bejesus out of the motor and reinstalled; unit is in the window running right now. We'll see how long it lasts! Worse case is I'll have to oil it every few days. That's a huge PITA but it's cheaper than buying a new one these days. You're right about some units being noisy. My other 5k BTU Frigidaire had noisy bearings so I replaced them. Much better but there's still a noise. Part of the problem is the all metal motor casing and attached parts act as a resonator. P.S. I lubed bearings with penetrating oil and it lasted only a few days. I noticed today that penetrating oil seeps into rust and then dries up! So today I lubed with motor oil (it's all I had available) hoping it doesn't dry up.
some interesting things ive noticed about these motors... the little plastic thing with the rubber washer i think is a slinger to keep water from the shaft off the bearing as a last barrier of protection on the OUTSIDE shaft, however the shaft going to the evaporator doesnt have that, and thats the one that failed. as well i think the boot being torn is the least of anyones worry because if you look at the motors theres weep holes at the bottoms but they are on the faces usually just above the bottom of the motor in its mounted position, i think the boot being torn just gives any moisture that does find its way into the motor a way out. as well clean the shafts i used a sanding medium for drywall and it did great its this mesh stuff, made it so the bearing dropped right on and only had to be tapped home half an inch. its interesting too this newer model they went nuts inside with labels mine with 410a has nothing not even that one about the fan taking fingers lol
I also have a GE window AC that has got very loud, and its a 2018. I have to clean the grime out with a hose and sadly water gets in the bearing. I should have tested it BEFORE i got it all buttoned up in the window just today and I would have realized it's louder than ever. well now i know, and now i get to do exactly what you did here. I like the wood trick to get the bearings on.
I wrap plastic around the motors or take it out before hosing it. If water gets in the bearings, they're ruined. It's not too hard to change bearings in this one. Good luck
@@airconditionersexposed Well after puling the cap off of the motor i realized they made this purposefully difficult if not impossible. theres a circuit board hard soldered to the stator inside the motor that wont let me get the rotor out. And with upper 80 temps allready here we just decided to buy a new one. I'll clean this new one dry i guess
@@chrisholdread174 Sorry to hear that. I don't think I've encountered one like that yet.
Notice all the grease that has exited from the original bearings. I had an appliance salesman tell me to avoid running it on HIGH FAN setting more than 10 minutes. Maybe he knew the bearings will overheat and expel the grease. Any mention in the Owner's Manual about NO CONTINUOUS RUNNING ON HIGH?
Thanks to your video, I'm currently tackling a 2011 model AEC08LYL1 GE window unit with bearing noise. This unit is set up identically to the one in the video and thus the procedure was the same. One 608Z bearing was definitely bad (evidence of water infiltration and tell-tale rust marks on bearing shield), while the other bearing was fine. I'm thinking that it's moisture killing the bearings and thus that the 608-2RS (bearing with 2 radial dust shields) is optimal for the replacements. Here's a tip: If you want to avoid having to tap or press the new bearings in place on the armature shaft, simply drop the armature into the freezer and warm the bearings with a hair dryer before installing them...they'll just drop onto the shaft.
@@jamesturnure9735 Thanks for the tip, I'll try that next time I change bearings. The way I'm tapping them on definitely isn't optimal. It would be nice to have a press to press them on.
@@airconditionersexposed
Placing a washer over the inner race of the bearing works also to protect the shield or dust cover. Then you can tap it home with a 10mm deep socket if that’s more convenient.
Bearings arrived early so they're installed and it's all back together. I did note that the rubber wire harness esculder was badly torn at the entry point to the motor housing. I applied a coating of RTV and then wrapped the area with electrical tape before reassembling. This probably isn't critical, but figured it was just one more point for moisture entry. Also noted the motor does have a 1/4" weep hole and it orients downward once the motor is installed. Whole job took just over an hour and the unit is working flawlessly now thanks to @airconditionersexposed !
@@jamesturnure9735 Glad you got it fixed. The boot should be fine if you taped it. I suspect water seeps into the bearing by the spindle much of the time.
where does the little star shaped roller bearing go for the fan? i took mine apart but i cant remember where it goes
In a pinch, I've used WD-40 or the like to quiet the motors.
That's sad that a unit from 2019 already needs this kind of work, meanwhile my 1999 WCI Frigidaire is still running perfectly with nothing more then being cleaned once.
Yes it is sad. This model is trouble prone.
@@airconditionersexposed most things today are trouble prone unfortunately
What’s sad is everything that we buy is cheap junk from China that we are spending hard earned money on. Whatever president gets in next, I hope they will concentrate on bringing jobs back to America and hopefully we can once again build quality items right here.
Nice job! However the fan itself is pretty loud. But you can only blame ge for that. Sounds much better now.
@jdslyman I'm just now seeing this but want there one time where it read 12?
I have a 2013 GE AEL18DSQ1 (18,000 BTU) unit. Looks similar to the unit you replaced the bearings. Can you provide instructions on recharging the coolant on these units. Mainly just need to know what is the high and low side lines so I can attach a port to the low side.
Sorry, I don't do any work with the refrigerant and I don't have this unit anymore. Maybe you could try an hvac board online or something.
what are the chances you having the link on where you bought your bearing! i have same model and trying to do the same thing. I search 608,608z,608zz and 608rs, not sure which is better as far as metal or rubber part. Thanks in advance
I've been using HCH brand from ebay, the 'rs' with rubber seals. The seller is JSB Great Bearings. You can use the shielded zz or the sealed rs. I don't really know the longevity of them, only using them for a year, they seem decent quality and inexpensive. The sealed should keep out water better. You can get koyo bearings from Japan on there, they cost more but probably better quality. Just avoid the generic bearings from China, they're really bad.
@@airconditionersexposed thank you very much for replying. I appreciate it.
Man want to thank you again ! just replace them yesterday, night and day difference. Its new again !!
@@edwinveal8248 Great! I'm glad to hear that. It beats buying a whole new air conditioner.
Because there's no provision for regreasing the shielded (Z or ZZ) bearings, I would think that the radial-seal design would provide more longevity in this application. I'll be tackling this exact same model with the same problem and will be using the 608-2RS. Great video...thank you!
What kind of grease did you use
I used regular automotive grease.
If the bearings feel fine but the shaft is rusted could it just be the shaft rust only causing the loud sound?
If it's really loud like this AC, it's probably the bearings.
@airconditionersexposed sounds just like that, I'll change bearings as well and clean up rust since I already have it took apart, thank you for responding!!
Hey! So I have exact same air conditioner; but the fan doesn't spin/turn on at all. Could it still just need new bearings? Or probably the whole fan motor is fried??
Yes it can freeze up from the bearings. You can turn the blade with your hand while it's on to see if it frees up at all.
If the motor hums but doesn't turn then most likely the bearings are seized and need to be replaced. Also possible the bearings seized on you and the motor kept running and overheated and was ruined. I would try applying lube to both sides of the motor shaft and forcibly spinning it by hand to get the lube in there, then turn on power and see if it works.
I found this exact unit, model AEG10AZL1, on the side of the road about a month ago.
Plugged it in, and the fan motor wouldn't budge.
I removed the 3-sided sheet metal exterior, separated the upper foam shroud from the lower to access blower fan wheel. Still couldn't get the motor shaft to budge. Using a 10mm socket on a 3" extension,
I removed the nut, lock washer, and flat washer from the shaft and, with a gentle touch, worked the blower fan from the shaft.
With the blower fan out of the way, I put the nut back on the motor and, with a few modest taps of a small brass hammer, the fan shaft was free! After reinstalling the blower fan,
I ran the unit, first with the compressor to verify cooling, then on FAN MED for 4 hours.
At first i thought the motor sounded like its bearings were out of tolerance. But, upon replacing the upper foam shroud, found the unit to sound as quiet as could be expected.
Takeaway: These manufacturers need to stop wasting time integrating wi-fi into simple appliances, and focus their attention on the quality of the mechanical parts. 🙄 engineered to fail.
Can anyone tell me what that round light purple piece is called? 5:55
Armature
Was it made in China? (I bet the bearings were.)
Heey very good video , Can you help me disconnect the motor from all wiring conect to capacitor
I label each wire with masking tape and draw a diagram. I can't see the colors well. Sometimes it's better to pry the connectors up with a screwdriver if they don't wiggle off too easily.
There's usually 2 or 3 wires going to the fan speeds and a power wire to the capacitor, and a ground wire which is usually screwed to the case.
Thank you so much. Also the capacitor doesn’t have anny electricity running while turning off .
Every a/c model and motor is different. My Haier motor is noisy. I took everything apart to access the motor. But the damn motor is not held together with bolts and nuts; it just has 4 metal tabs holding the two halves together. So I am afraid to pry the metal tabs because the metal might break, then I won't be able to put the motor back together. I hope the manufacturer is happy they saved a few cents by not using nuts and bolts. A$$holes. I can't even find a replacement motor for sale; even if I could they cost like $60. So my choices are a) leave motor assembled and lube the crap out of the bearings and hope for the best or b) risk prying the tabs and breaking them rendering the motor and therefore the entire a/c a piece of junk. FUN TIMES!
I've already oiled the motor twice over the past week. The lube gets the motor turning but it lasted only 2 days each time before it started seizing and making noise. One problem is the humidity is very high now with dewpoint at 75 degrees F! You're gonna get condensation in the motor.
I've replaced bearings on another window a/c with no problems. Hassle but it worked.
Another problem you might encounter on this job is getting the fan and blower wheel off the motor shaft. Sometimes they get stuck and it's a huge pain to remove them. I had to rent a bearing puller once from auto parts store remove a fan from the shaft.
The lesson I've learned is bearings are cheap but installing them can be a HUGE hassle. You have to decide if it's worth the effort. I HATE waste so I hate to junk an a/c just because of seized bearings. But I might not have a choice with my Haier.
The tabs usually don't break if it's not rusty. Pry them carefully just enough to clear it. Some of the small cheap motors make a slight raspy noise which doesn't improve much by changing the bearings. I'm not sure what causes it exactly. Yes, getting the blades off can be torture. If it's really noisy and it's definitely bearing noise, you may as well try it.
@@airconditionersexposed Thanks but I opted to play it safe; I just oiled the bejesus out of the motor and reinstalled; unit is in the window running right now. We'll see how long it lasts! Worse case is I'll have to oil it every few days. That's a huge PITA but it's cheaper than buying a new one these days.
You're right about some units being noisy. My other 5k BTU Frigidaire had noisy bearings so I replaced them. Much better but there's still a noise. Part of the problem is the all metal motor casing and attached parts act as a resonator.
P.S. I lubed bearings with penetrating oil and it lasted only a few days. I noticed today that penetrating oil seeps into rust and then dries up! So today I lubed with motor oil (it's all I had available) hoping it doesn't dry up.