Adam try using kerosene for cutting lubricant on aluminum. Better finish, cools great & evaporates lightening quick. FYI annular cutters also work for surface cutting with far less noise than carbide surface cutters.
Yep, kerosene or paraffin as we brits call it is a pretty good cutting fluid, only problem is when it gets too hot; much better to use water based cutting fluids. Oh yes and Adam - FINGERS! That swarf may only be fine but my word if you slice yourself on that stuff it is going to be a DEEP cut -grab it with pliers!
annual Cutters you should look into it also have a centerpin that spring loaded so you can get perfectly centered the pain compresses as you drill into the material
You might also want to consider when using those bits in a mill you shut the machine down before you raise it up I've seen them launch that piece of material out of the bit at the operator it's not pretty
Sometimes it's just a persons enthusiasm & infectious personality that can make you really appreciate something, even if you have little to no interest in the field of interest yourself.
As always with metal birds/rats nests like at 5:30, be very careful. One strand may break easily, but the nest as a whole acts like a multistranded rope: More than the sum of its parts. If You snag on a spinning rats nest, you can say goodbye to a finger or more in a hurry.
Absolutely. I've seen a fellow apprentice require stitches from trying to clean out a chip tray with her bare hands. I always lightly 'pulse' the downfeed to break chips in prevention of bird-nesting. And, as always - don't put your hands where you wouldn't put more sensitive appendages and never do anything you'd be embarrased to tell the paramedic when they ask what happened to you!
As always....Adam and those kind of tools i am always nervous :D It might hurt the surface finish a bit but in a home shop you are not in a hurry, he could have easily halfed the rpm...if that went flying...ouch...
@@mattchilton4950 Try drilling a smaller hole along the inside wall of the hole you are trying to cut. The chips will fall through the hole :) Here's where I _saw_ it th-cam.com/video/QhpOg186fks/w-d-xo.html
Essentially yes, but..no? I mean, it's better to think of them as hogging mills for plunge cuts, and there are some annular cutters out there that allow you to hog (rough cut in large quantity) the sides of a work piece or the very cut you've made, like for example, you've cut a hole, then you want o enlarge it so it becomes a slot. The reason i feel like there needs to be a distance between the regular hole saw and an annular cutter is that...where as you can chuck a hole saw in a mill, you can't chuck an annular cutter into a drill and expect anything out of it, and in fact, it's probably a good idea not to, because one wrong pressure adjustment, like you'd do with a hole saw, and you're off the deep end, which at best would just ruin your work piece, but if it grabs you by any odd chance, those things do damage. Not to mention the fact that it would probably cook the winding on a regular drill, because it demands a lot of power to cut through. In my imaginary tool classification, an annular cutter falls squarely in the middle between hobby shop and professional machinist shop. You need the machine to operate it. And the pocket too, these be expensive.
@@riynyescienceguy5268 What a great tip, thank you! I always cut an undersized hole with a hole saw and then follow with a boring bar to clean up the finish. It suits my needs and budget but dealing with the chips is a constant hassle. I'm definitely giving this a try.
My grandfather, Everett Douglas Hougen invented the annual cutter. adam, i work in the engineering and quality control lab at Hougen mfg. and which my family owns and operates. i can’t tell you how awesome it was to watch this video, truly delightful to see our annual cutter putting a smile on your face and working well. we sure love our products and seeing them being used in the field. thanks for all the nice words, i will be sure to share this video. grant h
My dad worked at Hougens for 30 plus years. He was at the Corunna Rd building in the 80s and then worked At Swartz Creek facility for years. OD grinder. I’m sure you knew AL
@@privateprivate3767 I've only used them in a Janson Slugger drill, but I'm gonna say NO. They're very thin walled, sharp, but nothing there. If they chatter, they break.
It’s funny how Adam has to give the long explanation how he’s not wasting a good piece of aluminium stock. And as a hobby machinist, I totally get it. I was thinking, “that’s a nice piece of stock to waste”. He’s definitely one of us!
Well i dont have much of a home shop and im not consider a machinist in any capacity. I finish my study as a stone skulptor and dont even buy material. On the other hand i realize how much energy labor and resouces go to produce stock material. So in my job i save some scraps and use them later. Its more who you are then what you are doing. Its also important to diferent betwene usefull scrap and used material so your shop dont look like landfill
He seems to try to hide it, but the big hole intersects a prior hole drilled across the length of the block. The result is a clean 3d oval shape in the edge of the large hole, showing the stability of his toolset.
Always know someone with a mill and a metal lathe haha. My BIL has both in his home shop and its a godsend. Needed some doorpin bushings for a car that they don't make them for. Ran over there and buzzed some out on the lathe out of some brass stock.
I love the passion he puts into his work, and the love of all of his various tools, trinkets and such. It reminds me of what it's like to really enjoy doing something, and not just doing it because it's there. But because loving doing it, is just a part of who you are.
I think you've forgotten about bi-metal hole saws. They work great on aluminum. Annular cutters work better with slower speeds and quite high feed pressures, which is why they're great with mag-drills. I should point out that if you aren't using anything as sturdy as a milling machine, these bits usually have a smooth pilot pin to guide the hole and reduce latteral motion. If you use a cheap home drill press with these, you need the guide pin or you will get a lot of chatter and will likely ruin your bit and/or work piece.
well, it is just a glorified holesaw, making a rotary vice for the piece would also do the trick. (doesnt adam have an indexing vise that works horizontally as well?) edit: also, holesaws (of any kind) are a pain in the ass to get centered correctly on a coordinate if you dont have a center pin to work from, so that guide rod makes sense even in the milling machine.
Not really, its more like the god-child of a hole saw and a mill. The cutting geometry is significantly different as are the proportions of the tool (for instance the wall thickness of the cutter)
We have used those with a mag drill for years drilling truck frames. You can get an adapter with a hex shank to use in a drill press but be sure you get the correct "chuck" to match the type of cutter you have. There are a few slightly different types out there. Also you can get them sharpened as they dull down, which is good considering how expensive they are.
I was a machinist for 48 yrs., yet your enthusiasm for discovering a new tool puts a smile on an old man's face. I once had that same reaction when discovering some new way of machining or a new tool that came to market that made my job easier and more precise. When I started we laid out holes with die buttons, gage blocks and a surface gage. Every man had a planer gage to test tool height and large slot sizes. We fit tapered keys with blueing and a scraper. New tech is a boon to the industry. Love your enthusiasm.
I used to use mag drills everyday for bolt holes on steel bridge assemblies. The satisfaction of that slug being shot out by the center pin is indescribable. Pro tip: if you dont remove the bird's nest, you get a free polish with your drill job!
I discovered these a few years ago. I also bought a mag drill to use them in. They have made everything so much easier. I used to break dozens of drill bits on a project and waste money on them at the home stores. Now i use primarily the cutters to do everything. Aluminum is easy to cut but they also go through thick steel with the same amount of ease. Wish i had these years ago!!
Nice video Adam! I'm a mechanical designer at Hougen Mfg over in Michigan, the founder of the company Doug Hougen patented the design for the annular cutter back in 1973. We're still manufacturing cutters and a range of mag drills. Also my side job is doing CAD design for Solo's Hold/Nerfworxlab. Keep the vids coming!
I had no idea annular cutters were so recent. I'd have thought they existed in the machining world from the early days, since they are so similar to face mills, and efficient removal of material is so important in the machining world. I know the machine gods will curse me, but I have even used a carbide annular cutter as a face mill in a pinch.
You can also use standard hole saws. I picked up some bimetal Milwaukee (or craftsman?) ones and was able to punch a 1 1/2” hole right through 2 pieces of 1/2” plate steel. The cutter looked pretty much 100% after those cuts, I’d be willing to bet it could handle 5-10 cuts like that before you noticed any wear. Oil, slow rpm, blow out chips regularly.
The tool was invented by Dr. E Douglas Hougen, I remember them being sold as Sluggers. I have heard them called Core Drills and now as Annular Cutters. I was an Aircraft Machinist in the USAF and Air National Guard and we used this tool a lot. Because of the 2 flats cut on the shank at 90 degrees I always made a mandrel with 2 set screws to lock and drive those cutters. Those flats do not leave much foe a collet to hold onto, though most people use them that way in a mill. I've seen them break collets and the mandrill or adapter works far better, if you take the time to make one and ream the hole. One thing though, make sure you do not run them at high speeds and use a good cutting oil, lots of it and make sure you back it out with deep cuts and clean the chips out. That cutter will shatter and can be a real mess to clean out of the part. BTW here is the Hougen site with the history of the tool and lots of info and downloads. www.hougen.com/about-hougen/about-hougen.html
I have been using these "annular/broach" cutters with a magnetic base drill unit for about 25 years... indispensable in industry. Glad you finally found this tech Adam.
I’m ripped all my interior out of my 5th wheel camper to install work benches, south bend 9” lathe and a Rong Fu RF20 drill mill 😂 It works but I feel you man
I'm amazed in all the years and projects all of you have done that no one knew about angular drill bits. We used em in mag drills for bolt hole locations on steel that was way too heavy or large to ever get near a drill press or plasma table. I always loved mag drilling. So easy and yet time consuming lol.
Annular cutters are great until you're setting a mag drill up upside down, in the mud, in a 2ft-ish gap under an enclosure because some idiot on a totally different shift forgot to drill them during fabrication.
@@mrfinder18 What a guess! I was actually working in the metal fabrication industry, but we were making big heavy duty enclosures for electrical stuff for a hydroelectric dam. Guy on the other shift built the base, forgot to drill the mounting holes for a major component... it got finished and sent to site. a week or so later, i got sent to site to fix it.
i brought myself a mag drill with the cutters, my home shop is now on another level as my hobby is restoring old farm equipment, and often need big holes in steel.
Hey Adam. Got the same problem some weeks ago. But no aluminum - stainless steel. Tried a step-drillbit. No success. Then tried a carbide tipped hole saw. No success. My solution: a punch tool for punching holes in stainless steel kitchen sinks. But this works only on thin material. Greetings from a long time Mythbusters viewer here from Germany. Was always a pleasure to watch science go real.
I'm one of those teachers, and I teach machining. Most teachers operate in a state of complete exhaustion- because teaching is about 1/3rd of the job. What students never see is that teachers are swamped with bureaucratic tasks, catering to special ed students, attending meetings which are mostly a waste of time, and many other tasks that make teachers lives much like the lives of social workers. Far too many tasks fall to teachers now. They don't tell beginning teachers any of this. If they did, literally no one would choose the career. And I agree with your premise that teachers often lack enthusiasm.
I HAD a science teacher as excited and enthusiastic as Adam in high school and he's a huge part of my enduring love for science and experimenting. He introduced us to heat transfer concepts by lighting his desk on fire, just as an example - he knew how to get our attention so very well
They are awesome tools. I'm actually surprised you ran that high of RPM's on a cutter that large, worked fine, but I don't think I've ever used any annular cutters at that high of a RPM.
In the beginning i thought to myself “it’d be nice to have something like a hole saw like with woodworking.” Then Mr. savage pulls out a metal hole saw. Definitely an amazing tool.
It's great to know that a kid and his toys has no shelf like. I've just purchased a mag drill and some annular cutters after many years of shoulder ripping torture from an oversized hand drill and drill press. I'm so inspired to build and create, it doesn't even matter if it's useful!
@@felixar90 Few tradesmen, and fewer amateurs, have ever set up their machines in accordance with Georg Schlesinger's principles, established in 1938. I've encountered a fitter who moved my lathe, left it bridging two separate concrete slabs (which would move separately as ground moisture conditions changed) and assured me he'd used a precision level, so it'd be OK... Anyway, parallels are often caused to topple during loading the vice, it happens, and it's seldom because the machine's so far out of level, but- Most of us kept a range of (compression) coil springs, cut to varying lengths, in the shop to interpose between parallels, and stop them falling, since you have one hand holding the workpiece, the other closing or opening the vice. Who has a third hand handy to control parallels? Foam rubber and even scouring pads can be used, as can bent spring steel or steel pallet strapping. If the parallels are thus kept vertical, there's less likelihood of debris getting between them and the vice dovetail or jaws, too. And... If you're on production work, make soft vice jaws, and mill steps in them, rendering the parallels unnecessary, but, mill them anew for each job, at the workpiece width, with a parallel and a silver steel roller in the vice allowing the retreating jaw to rise naturally under pressure to the position it'll adopt when the workpiece is in position. A square block won't allow that... The stepped jaws aren't terribly precise, and the height of the retreating jaw can vary a thou or two, dependent upon the force used to close the vice. In the long distant past, we used either a torque wrench to close vices (especially in paired vice situations) or, joy of joys, Jarno manual hydraulic vices. They'd approach the workpiece rapidly, mechanically, and then the hydraulics would take over, the pressure set on a calibrated thimble like a micrometer. I haven't seen a Jarno manual hydraulic vice for over 40 years, now.
@@robertlawson8572 Edge Technology makes some nice spring loaded parallel holders, for 4" and 6" vises, and probably more. Also it goes without saying that soft jaws are to be machined while loaded, Ideally with something that will let them kick out the same way they'll be when actually holding the work piece, I actually never had to used soft jaws of any kind but if I ever did I'll just refer to Stefan Gotteswinter
@@felixar90 "Also it goes without saying that soft jaws are to be machined while loaded," I found over forty five years in engineering that it's a mistake to think anything "goes without saying" I've noticed that, especially in maintenance shops, you can't assume anything. Your experience may have been different, of course. I thought, in 1978, "it goes without saying" that a vice, mounted upon a machine tool, should be both secure and clocked accurately, if left for someone else to use... I found the error of that assumption when I used a vice left by the previous guy on a Butler 26" Super Shaper. I asked him if he was finished, and if the vice had been trued. When I started to use it seriously, the vice, a fairly big one, shot free into the aisle. The previous guy hadn't been asking much of the machine, I was shifting serious amounts of material. I never again trusted a vice left in position, and I always removed vices after having used them, (no blame could fall upon me for its security) and, I never allowed myself to be prevented from mounting an accessory securely once I'd started. "It goes without saying" that you ought to work against the fixed jaw of a machine vice... That idea collapses when you're working a shaper...
These are awesome tools, used a lot in the automotive industry for cutting holes in frames, bumpers etc. There is also a variation with a spring loaded center point... better know as a spot weld cutter
I am a railways track engineer. In old times we used to use normal drill bits for drilling the rails for fishplates/joints or for fastening signaling cables. These days we have switched to annular cutters and this is wayyyyyyy faster and more convenient. We drill a hole in less than 1 minute and with a normal drill it takes even 10 minutes for a single hole. Also the hole is much cleaner whish is very important for avoiding fatigue crack formation or fissures starting from the holes as a source of stress concentration... I also love them.
I saw the same thing, paused the video to see if anybody had commented. Oh jeez Adam needs to be more methodical and less hyper around these processes. No judgement here, but accidents happen in a split second.
@@flymeetspaddle if your wearing a glove around that in the first place, then you were taught wrong. Never ever wear gloves when operating a machine of any kind that produces chips.
@@mrfinder18 Sound advice but I think you have misunderstood what degloving means. It is something that happens to you even when you're not wearing gloves
When working with sheet metal in thinner applications a simple hole saw works wonders. Similar technique of slow speed, cutting fluid, and consistent pressure via drill press or mill works wonders. This anullar cutter basically works as a reamer and a hole saw all in one. I will be looking into getting a set of these anullar cutters for my sheet metal shop for thicker and more precise applications. I wonder if you could cut straight through square or rectangle tubing for reliably accurate pass through holes...... Great information Adam!
With super fine aluminum chips? Whats your skin made out of paper? Aluminum that fine wont do anything to hurt you its not like he tried grabbing it as tight as he could
Hey, At least he wasn't wearing gloves like 3/4 of the amateurs you see on TH-cam do arround rotation machinery. Loose the gloves or loose a finger. Better to have a couple stitches in your thumb then not to have a thumb to get stitches in.
I've shattered a 3" Hougen annular bit when using a magdrill upside down. It wasn't a good day. Any kind of sideloading on an annular bit ends up with it exploding.
Last time I saw someone use a magdrill upside down, his cutting fluid ran up the shaft and shorted the magnet and dropped the entire magdrill on his head. Adding a safety chain for himself turned it into a magdrill shaped wrecking ball to swing at his head. In the end, mistakes were made and lessons were learned!
I use em all the time, both mag drill and milling machine and they are awesome. When drilling dont just plunge the bit in, thats how you end up with a fireball of artery slicing madness. Just let off a bit of pressure and it will kick out nice short chips and allow constant coolant flow.
Been using those for years now working on big rigs doing frame extensions, cutting holes to hang other accessories and other types of body implements. Mag drill is the best tool in a heavy equipment shop!
@@federicoromero6130 a vice is stationary a rotary table turns 360 degrees and you can make large hole with a small endmill by pitching out half the diameter on the Bridgeport mill, then taking a cut on the rotary table to finish the cut
This is the kind of thing that reminds me how different peoples lives are. I have used mag drills for ten years. But somehow Adam savage has never come across them with all the weird random stuff he has done in his career.
@@allenfunstuff people call things weird names. I’ve only ever heard of a fox tail in South Carolina. But all it is is a small hand brush you’d use to clean a table off. But people there call them fox tails.
Adam I work for Tungaloy who makes indexable cutters. We have a new center cutting indexable end millfor this application. Your cutter however produces a slug vs. chips that you would have to dispose of. Our cutter is the closest thing to a mill drill with side cutting capability. This will leave a wonderful side finish to your part.
I took machine shop in highschool and the first thing that came to mind when you asked about making a hole that size was using a smaller end mill and my stomach turned at the thought. Watching it work through that aluminum as me completely sold on these, as soon as I get my own shop I am getting some annullar cutters
I don't care if you are cutting aluminum, use a pick, to pull cuttings away from the work area. Never grab cuttings , with your bare hand. If it's small chips, use a brush, if you try to wipe them away, 1 tiny stuck chip can slice your hand open. If it's the curls and lacy shit, that can cut you to the bone. Keep a long bent pick at your drill press, end mill, and lathe.
I saw a homemade tool with a face-groover on a 1" square bar. The guy used it for cutting large precision holes in 1/2" and under plate. Ingenuity rules the world. I've also seen a 5/16" HSS lathe tool in the same type of setup for plug cutting. They both had drills in the center to stabilize everything.
I work as a CNC machinist at Edwards AFB, CA and I use those cutters quite often. We call them Slugger Cutters, because it leaves that fancy little slug in the middle. I've used them on steel and even Titanium. It takes longer, but if you have plenty of coolant and time, you can get through any material.
We cut through 1/8th and 1/4 in aluminum skins on our custom vehicles. We use standard hole saws. They're much cheaper. That said, for the 1/4 in, applying and releasing pressure repeatedly helps a lot, because hole saws don't have the spiral path to remove cut material. That said, one technique that works really well on floors with 1/2 aluminum is to drill 2 or three holes with a bit that's wider than the edge of the hole saw. Drill them to the inside edge of your cut so they don't impact the round outer circle you're cutting. These holes provide a place for material to fall through without lifting the hole saw and blowing out with compressed air. If the metal to cut is immovable, then one or two holes near the bottom still help, but on thicker stuff, pull the hole saw out often and check for chip buildup. Even on wood, a hole saw will bind up on chips and literally burn wood if you don't manage the chips. The "drain holes" work great with a hole saw on 2x4's. With Wood, you can just power your way through and live with the heat, but it dulls your hole saw much faster, and peals the paint off in a hurry, so they rust, but as quickly as you dull them, you won't care about the rust unless you sharpen your own blades. Drain holes, an ounce of preparation saves a gallon of sweat and tears. (saying by Heis Also)
I used to make these at Hougen mfg. (Hougen Rotabroach are the best annular cutters in the world). Seeing them blast through a 60 Rockwell railroad rail in a few seconds was awe inspiring. The trick is that there isn't a center like a drill so the rpms can be much lower and keep the proper ips feed as not to increase wear.
These are very different from a hole saw. Hole saws do not clear their own chips, making it difficult to get through thick material. Also if you're looking for good accuracy and surface finish an annular cutter will do much better.
New subscriber - but your enthusiasm is infectious ! Love your honest opinions & straight talk. Your content should be required to any person who has the " I wonder how" in their DNA. Any young or old machinist would and can learn from your words of wisdom! I look forward to exploring all your videos. You have me hooked. Well done Sir!
I've used these on hougen mag drills. They saved my ass on time and money spent on inferior or incapable bits. Like you said, go slow and coolant is a must. I haven't tried it on the bridgeport but I think I will now.
Idk, seems like jamie would blow stuff up while drinking. Adam's a people person whos interested in tech, a geek. Jamie is all tech. A nerd. They make a good team.
What the!? It surprises me that you are new to these. I'm a junior engineer and we use mag-based drills with these bits in the field all the time. Most common brand is rotabroach, it's so synonymous with the tool that often most annular cutters are referred as rotabroach.
I've been calling them Hoagan cutters and rotobroach since I first used them in the late 80's early 90's before that I used hole saws follow by boring bars
Use them quite often at work. Use them for ironworking and general fabrication on thick steel because we use big mag drills that need at least half an inch of steel to properly adhere without flying off the piece.
Really? because I work in construction and I wouldn't know what the hell you were talking about if you asked me for a slugger bit. Now if you asked me for a hole saw specifically a carbide hole saw I would hand you what you needed.
Basically a precision hole saw. That's pretty cool. We didn't mess around with these in AIT but I've seen them come up a lot while I've been researching other tools for work.
As an electrician I use hole saws for holes up to 8”. Simple drill, patience and some oil and I’ll get through anything. They are also relatively cheap since the teeth tend to break off.
I mean not really I'm 24 live on a small farm and never had much money but I have a 12'x14' building that has a 4' long southbend lathe and a plasma table as well as many hand/power tools but I'm single without kids and spend my extra money on tools not other luxuries
How are you, Adam Savage, only discovering these now lol. I use hole saws and annular cutters for anything over 1/2" in my home shop. With an adapter you can use these in a large robust drill press and or with a magnetic drill. You also need to respect proper speeds for each type of material and always go heavy on cutting fluid.
@@quistan2 it doesn’t tho. Material that thick clogs up the hole saw. Looks like the only difference between a hole saw and this annular bit is a way to evacuate the waste.
@@quistan2 but this is still a nicer cleaner method depending on type of holesaw. And why not use them if you can. I'm just surprised he hasn't been using these for years. They've been round long enough but i guess it's amazing what things we might not see till you have them.
Adam I have been a steel worker for years and have a lot of experience with these bits and if every 2 or 3 seconds you release pressure it will not build up with material. More so for hard product like steel but will save the bit for a lot longer.
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Annular Cutter set (7/16-"1-1/16"): amzn.to/38s627n
Annular Cutter set (1"-2"): amzn.to/3eGQU7o
Adam try using kerosene for cutting lubricant on aluminum. Better finish, cools great & evaporates lightening quick. FYI annular cutters also work for surface cutting with far less noise than carbide surface cutters.
Yep, kerosene or paraffin as we brits call it is a pretty good cutting fluid, only problem is when it gets too hot; much better to use water based cutting fluids.
Oh yes and Adam - FINGERS! That swarf may only be fine but my word if you slice yourself on that stuff it is going to be a DEEP cut -grab it with pliers!
annual Cutters you should look into it also have a centerpin that spring loaded so you can get perfectly centered the pain compresses as you drill into the material
You might also want to consider when using those bits in a mill you shut the machine down before you raise it up I've seen them launch that piece of material out of the bit at the operator it's not pretty
www.rotabroach.co.uk/
The original and the Best cutting tools in the world brother, Made in Sheffield, England!!
I will never have a machine shop or a need to machine anything, but Adam's excitement over stuff like annular cutters makes me want to get some.
Never say Never lol ;) the bug can catch you when you least expect it
Sometimes it's just a persons enthusiasm & infectious personality that can make you really appreciate something, even if you have little to no interest in the field of interest yourself.
Same boat. I'm a minor maker, literally nothing even close to what Adam does, but I love watching him use these tools.
try a normal hole saw first
That cutter costs about a weeks pay so don’t feel bad
As always with metal birds/rats nests like at 5:30, be very careful. One strand may break easily, but the nest as a whole acts like a multistranded rope: More than the sum of its parts. If You snag on a spinning rats nest, you can say goodbye to a finger or more in a hurry.
Absolutely. I've seen a fellow apprentice require stitches from trying to clean out a chip tray with her bare hands. I always lightly 'pulse' the downfeed to break chips in prevention of bird-nesting. And, as always - don't put your hands where you wouldn't put more sensitive appendages and never do anything you'd be embarrased to tell the paramedic when they ask what happened to you!
I was just posting about the same thing, I didn't see this post till after.
As always....Adam and those kind of tools i am always nervous :D
It might hurt the surface finish a bit but in a home shop you are not in a hurry, he could have easily halfed the rpm...if that went flying...ouch...
@@antraxxslingshots It's not so bad flying off, it's the fact that it can pull you in.
@@pinchopaxtonsgreatestminds9591 Not talking about the birds nest, i was talking about the part.
So essentially it’s a high-quality, high-precision hole saw?
Essentially yes, I've tried this operation with a hole saw and it can't clear the chips so it gums up.
@@mattchilton4950 Try drilling a smaller hole along the inside wall of the hole you are trying to cut. The chips will fall through the hole :)
Here's where I _saw_ it th-cam.com/video/QhpOg186fks/w-d-xo.html
Essentially yes, but..no? I mean, it's better to think of them as hogging mills for plunge cuts, and there are some annular cutters out there that allow you to hog (rough cut in large quantity) the sides of a work piece or the very cut you've made, like for example, you've cut a hole, then you want o enlarge it so it becomes a slot.
The reason i feel like there needs to be a distance between the regular hole saw and an annular cutter is that...where as you can chuck a hole saw in a mill, you can't chuck an annular cutter into a drill and expect anything out of it, and in fact, it's probably a good idea not to, because one wrong pressure adjustment, like you'd do with a hole saw, and you're off the deep end, which at best would just ruin your work piece, but if it grabs you by any odd chance, those things do damage. Not to mention the fact that it would probably cook the winding on a regular drill, because it demands a lot of power to cut through.
In my imaginary tool classification, an annular cutter falls squarely in the middle between hobby shop and professional machinist shop. You need the machine to operate it. And the pocket too, these be expensive.
Riyman24 brilliant tip!
@@riynyescienceguy5268 What a great tip, thank you! I always cut an undersized hole with a hole saw and then follow with a boring bar to clean up the finish. It suits my needs and budget but dealing with the chips is a constant hassle. I'm definitely giving this a try.
My grandfather, Everett Douglas Hougen invented the annual cutter.
adam,
i work in the engineering and quality control lab at Hougen mfg. and which my family owns and operates. i can’t tell you how awesome it was to watch this video, truly delightful to see our annual cutter putting a smile on your face and working well. we sure love our products and seeing them being used in the field. thanks for all the nice words, i will be sure to share this video.
grant h
My dad worked at Hougens for 30 plus years. He was at the Corunna Rd building in the 80s and then worked At Swartz Creek facility for years. OD grinder. I’m sure you knew AL
love my Hougen HMD115 drill and annular cutters
My Dad invented the question mark.
can you side mill with these tools?
@@privateprivate3767 I've only used them in a Janson Slugger drill, but I'm gonna say NO. They're very thin walled, sharp, but nothing there. If they chatter, they break.
Some engineer decided he wanted a hole saw bit but for metals and now we have this. I love it
It’s funny how Adam has to give the long explanation how he’s not wasting a good piece of aluminium stock. And as a hobby machinist, I totally get it. I was thinking, “that’s a nice piece of stock to waste”. He’s definitely one of us!
Well i dont have much of a home shop and im not consider a machinist in any capacity. I finish my study as a stone skulptor and dont even buy material. On the other hand i realize how much energy labor and resouces go to produce stock material. So in my job i save some scraps and use them later. Its more who you are then what you are doing.
Its also important to diferent betwene usefull scrap and used material so your shop dont look like landfill
He seems to try to hide it, but the big hole intersects a prior hole drilled across the length of the block. The result is a clean 3d oval shape in the edge of the large hole, showing the stability of his toolset.
I love the use of the term "Home Shop" while looking around The Cave :)
It's really more of a collection of home shops
@@scottdonovan4841 i bet if we all combine our home shops we don't get even half of the cave
Well its his shop at home lol
Home is where your heart is.
Always know someone with a mill and a metal lathe haha. My BIL has both in his home shop and its a godsend. Needed some doorpin bushings for a car that they don't make them for. Ran over there and buzzed some out on the lathe out of some brass stock.
-"Drillbit are scary, they can take your finger off"
-proceeds to stick entire hand into giant birdsnest spinning at 900rpm
yeah holy shit that had me puckered up...
@@boundsy7475 me too.
I was thinking it was gonna grab the bottle at least.
That gave me anxiety
@@dsauce1257 the heck are you people talking about? He clearly only brought his hands close after the bit had spun down to a stop
"There is a lot of Adams to move around" - Adam
Atoms* lol
@@dclsxfactory7823 yes we know.... That little joke went right over your head there bud 😂
Adam's atoms doesnt appreciate this.
I read this comment as he said it. Ima leave a thumbs up for that
I read this comment literally the exact second he said that. What timing.
I love the passion he puts into his work, and the love of all of his various tools, trinkets and such. It reminds me of what it's like to really enjoy doing something, and not just doing it because it's there. But because loving doing it, is just a part of who you are.
I think you've forgotten about bi-metal hole saws. They work great on aluminum. Annular cutters work better with slower speeds and quite high feed pressures, which is why they're great with mag-drills. I should point out that if you aren't using anything as sturdy as a milling machine, these bits usually have a smooth pilot pin to guide the hole and reduce latteral motion. If you use a cheap home drill press with these, you need the guide pin or you will get a lot of chatter and will likely ruin your bit and/or work piece.
well, it is just a glorified holesaw, making a rotary vice for the piece would also do the trick. (doesnt adam have an indexing vise that works horizontally as well?)
edit: also, holesaws (of any kind) are a pain in the ass to get centered correctly on a coordinate if you dont have a center pin to work from, so that guide rod makes sense even in the milling machine.
Not really, its more like the god-child of a hole saw and a mill. The cutting geometry is significantly different as are the proportions of the tool (for instance the wall thickness of the cutter)
I think when he showed off his set the guide pins were there, he just didn't use it for this cut.
@@AlRoderick correct the pins were side by side at the end of the holder.
He did mention that it wasn't a good fit for a drill press and that he was relying on a mill's higher precision to work with them.
Best part of the video was that genuine smile at the end while he was dinging the bit like a bell.
You're a wonderful human Adam Savage.
We have used those with a mag drill for years drilling truck frames. You can get an adapter with a hex shank to use in a drill press but be sure you get the correct "chuck" to match the type of cutter you have. There are a few slightly different types out there. Also you can get them sharpened as they dull down, which is good considering how expensive they are.
I was a machinist for 48 yrs., yet your enthusiasm for discovering a new tool puts a smile on an old man's face. I once had that same reaction when discovering some new way of machining or a new tool that came to market that made my job easier and more precise. When I started we laid out holes with die buttons, gage blocks and a surface gage. Every man had a planer gage to test tool height and large slot sizes. We fit tapered keys with blueing and a scraper. New tech is a boon to the industry. Love your enthusiasm.
A true entertainment professional! Adam keeps you enthralled, made it look easy, and did it for nearly 10 minutes talking about cutting a hole!
That´s alot of Adams to move around (around 7:50 -8:00 Minutes) - could not resist this one, Atom!
Wait till you start trying to move Jamies around, that's when it gets really ... hairy.
Atom Savage? I hope you realize what you have done! The universe just shifted.
don't be that savage.. :D
Up and atom... Up and at them....
I used to use mag drills everyday for bolt holes on steel bridge assemblies. The satisfaction of that slug being shot out by the center pin is indescribable. Pro tip: if you dont remove the bird's nest, you get a free polish with your drill job!
That's exactly what I use these for today
Man I love Adam Savage and his enthusiasm.
I discovered these a few years ago. I also bought a mag drill to use them in. They have made everything so much easier. I used to break dozens of drill bits on a project and waste money on them at the home stores. Now i use primarily the cutters to do everything. Aluminum is easy to cut but they also go through thick steel with the same amount of ease. Wish i had these years ago!!
I am a woodworker. I envy the precision of machining. I am inspired to learn machining. Thank you for all of your great content.
Nice video Adam! I'm a mechanical designer at Hougen Mfg over in Michigan, the founder of the company Doug Hougen patented the design for the annular cutter back in 1973. We're still manufacturing cutters and a range of mag drills. Also my side job is doing CAD design for Solo's Hold/Nerfworxlab. Keep the vids coming!
I had no idea annular cutters were so recent. I'd have thought they existed in the machining world from the early days, since they are so similar to face mills, and efficient removal of material is so important in the machining world. I know the machine gods will curse me, but I have even used a carbide annular cutter as a face mill in a pinch.
Seeing you grab those aluminum chips and pulling them made my heart jump.
Why?
Aluminum chips arent anywhere near as sharp or dangerous as other heavy metals
@@eddieruddock7014 probably because he thought either
A) it was sharp and would end up with a couple cuts
Or
B) it was hot
@@Lonelywolf438 Yeah I know. I just wondered this reasoning. It's clearly like wire wool, just softer.
Eddie Ruddock cause he's scared! Oh I hope his heart can hold out!
You can also use standard hole saws. I picked up some bimetal Milwaukee (or craftsman?) ones and was able to punch a 1 1/2” hole right through 2 pieces of 1/2” plate steel. The cutter looked pretty much 100% after those cuts, I’d be willing to bet it could handle 5-10 cuts like that before you noticed any wear. Oil, slow rpm, blow out chips regularly.
The tool was invented by Dr. E Douglas Hougen, I remember them being sold as Sluggers. I have heard them called Core Drills and now as Annular Cutters. I was an Aircraft Machinist in the USAF and Air National Guard and we used this tool a lot. Because of the 2 flats cut on the shank at 90 degrees I always made a mandrel with 2 set screws to lock and drive those cutters. Those flats do not leave much foe a collet to hold onto, though most people use them that way in a mill. I've seen them break collets and the mandrill or adapter works far better, if you take the time to make one and ream the hole.
One thing though, make sure you do not run them at high speeds and use a good cutting oil, lots of it and make sure you back it out with deep cuts and clean the chips out. That cutter will shatter and can be a real mess to clean out of the part. BTW here is the Hougen site with the history of the tool and lots of info and downloads.
www.hougen.com/about-hougen/about-hougen.html
I have been using these "annular/broach" cutters with a magnetic base drill unit for about 25 years... indispensable in industry. Glad you finally found this tech Adam.
I have spent several hundred hours on a mag-drill cutting holes with these, they do work quite well!
Nothing better than a slugger to bang out holes in iron
We use the mag drill to tap holes aswell
Adam Savage is like that one teacher at school that taught you and were able to absorb their information and it stuck. Good job Mr S.
There's probably a reason Mythbusters was on for so long. That's part of it.
Me, in my apartment, with no place to do any kind of machining: Totally life changing!
I’m ripped all my interior out of my 5th wheel camper to install work benches, south bend 9” lathe and a Rong Fu RF20 drill mill 😂 It works but I feel you man
I'm amazed in all the years and projects all of you have done that no one knew about angular drill bits.
We used em in mag drills for bolt hole locations on steel that was way too heavy or large to ever get near a drill press or plasma table. I always loved mag drilling. So easy and yet time consuming lol.
I've used those a ton at my work, we usually use them to drill bolt holes. Run about 100-200 rpm going through 1" to 5" thick structural steel.
Annular cutters are great until you're setting a mag drill up upside down, in the mud, in a 2ft-ish gap under an enclosure because some idiot on a totally different shift forgot to drill them during fabrication.
RealExivus you need to update to a Mag Lev drill, then gravity won't be an issue.
Sounds like working in the Power Plant Services Industry. lol
@@mrfinder18 What a guess! I was actually working in the metal fabrication industry, but we were making big heavy duty enclosures for electrical stuff for a hydroelectric dam.
Guy on the other shift built the base, forgot to drill the mounting holes for a major component... it got finished and sent to site. a week or so later, i got sent to site to fix it.
@@realexivus950 Surprised they didn't send that dude to fix his own mistake.
@@firearmsstudent that's what happens when the fuckup is by someone related to management
Option for a hole that big...simple..C4
C4 is more Jamie's thing.
Very few things can't be solved witht the proper application of high explosives. 👍😎🤣
@@thomashodgson5600 Jamie is also the person that referred to being a maker as making objects smaller in precise ways. So yeah that "precise" C4
“But how do you do it in your home shop?”
Walks over to a $17000 drill press. 🤣
I’ll manage it with my $35 harbor freight hand held drill😂
lol it's actually even worse than that, it's a milling machine
Not a drill press its a bridgeport mill
yea its the holy grail of all mills. im over here with a harbor freight.
realistically, a J head bridgeport can be had for 2k, but with an annular cutter, you could use a 500$ mag drill or your pick of used drill press.
i brought myself a mag drill with the cutters, my home shop is now on another level as my hobby is restoring old farm equipment, and often need big holes in steel.
Hey Adam. Got the same problem some weeks ago. But no aluminum - stainless steel. Tried a step-drillbit. No success. Then tried a carbide tipped hole saw. No success. My solution: a punch tool for punching holes in stainless steel kitchen sinks. But this works only on thin material. Greetings from a long time Mythbusters viewer here from Germany. Was always a pleasure to watch science go real.
I feel if any of my high-school teachers were half as enthusiastic and interesting as adam i would have learned and retained alot more.
I'm one of those teachers, and I teach machining. Most teachers operate in a state of complete exhaustion- because teaching is about 1/3rd of the job. What students never see is that teachers are swamped with bureaucratic tasks, catering to special ed students, attending meetings which are mostly a waste of time, and many other tasks that make teachers lives much like the lives of social workers. Far too many tasks fall to teachers now. They don't tell beginning teachers any of this. If they did, literally no one would choose the career. And I agree with your premise that teachers often lack enthusiasm.
I HAD a science teacher as excited and enthusiastic as Adam in high school and he's a huge part of my enduring love for science and experimenting. He introduced us to heat transfer concepts by lighting his desk on fire, just as an example - he knew how to get our attention so very well
Adams Favorite Tools:
Every proper tool ever made.
I think he might have some improper tools somewhere as well, lol
Who doesnt love proper tools?
They are awesome tools. I'm actually surprised you ran that high of RPM's on a cutter that large, worked fine, but I don't think I've ever used any annular cutters at that high of a RPM.
I agree with you. It is aluminium and not steel, but he is running too high of a speed.
In the beginning i thought to myself “it’d be nice to have something like a hole saw like with woodworking.” Then Mr. savage pulls out a metal hole saw. Definitely an amazing tool.
It's great to know that a kid and his toys has no shelf like. I've just purchased a mag drill and some annular cutters after many years of shoulder ripping torture from an oversized hand drill and drill press. I'm so inspired to build and create, it doesn't even matter if it's useful!
Parallel falling over means there is a chip between it and the vise bed or jaw. Need to clean the vise.
Maybe the vise is tram to the bed but the bed isn't level. (because the entire machine isn't level)
@@felixar90 Few tradesmen, and fewer amateurs, have ever set up their machines in accordance with Georg Schlesinger's principles, established in 1938. I've encountered a fitter who moved my lathe, left it bridging two separate concrete slabs (which would move separately as ground moisture conditions changed) and assured me he'd used a precision level, so it'd be OK... Anyway, parallels are often caused to topple during loading the vice, it happens, and it's seldom because the machine's so far out of level, but-
Most of us kept a range of (compression) coil springs, cut to varying lengths, in the shop to interpose between parallels, and stop them falling, since you have one hand holding the workpiece, the other closing or opening the vice. Who has a third hand handy to control parallels? Foam rubber and even scouring pads can be used, as can bent spring steel or steel pallet strapping. If the parallels are thus kept vertical, there's less likelihood of debris getting between them and the vice dovetail or jaws, too.
And... If you're on production work, make soft vice jaws, and mill steps in them, rendering the parallels unnecessary, but, mill them anew for each job, at the workpiece width, with a parallel and a silver steel roller in the vice allowing the retreating jaw to rise naturally under pressure to the position it'll adopt when the workpiece is in position. A square block won't allow that... The stepped jaws aren't terribly precise, and the height of the retreating jaw can vary a thou or two, dependent upon the force used to close the vice. In the long distant past, we used either a torque wrench to close vices (especially in paired vice situations) or, joy of joys, Jarno manual hydraulic vices. They'd approach the workpiece rapidly, mechanically, and then the hydraulics would take over, the pressure set on a calibrated thimble like a micrometer. I haven't seen a Jarno manual hydraulic vice for over 40 years, now.
@@robertlawson8572 Edge Technology makes some nice spring loaded parallel holders, for 4" and 6" vises, and probably more.
Also it goes without saying that soft jaws are to be machined while loaded, Ideally with something that will let them kick out the same way they'll be when actually holding the work piece,
I actually never had to used soft jaws of any kind but if I ever did I'll just refer to Stefan Gotteswinter
@@felixar90 "Also it goes without saying that soft jaws are to be machined while loaded," I found over forty five years in engineering that it's a mistake to think anything "goes without saying" I've noticed that, especially in maintenance shops, you can't assume anything. Your experience may have been different, of course.
I thought, in 1978, "it goes without saying" that a vice, mounted upon a machine tool, should be both secure and clocked accurately, if left for someone else to use... I found the error of that assumption when I used a vice left by the previous guy on a Butler 26" Super Shaper. I asked him if he was finished, and if the vice had been trued. When I started to use it seriously, the vice, a fairly big one, shot free into the aisle. The previous guy hadn't been asking much of the machine, I was shifting serious amounts of material. I never again trusted a vice left in position, and I always removed vices after having used them, (no blame could fall upon me for its security) and, I never allowed myself to be prevented from mounting an accessory securely once I'd started.
"It goes without saying" that you ought to work against the fixed jaw of a machine vice... That idea collapses when you're working a shaper...
So who's up for Adam playing Carol of the Bells on his annular cutter set? :P
i'm up for that!
I support this message.
tubular bells...
Ha!
@@tested Just release a short video of Adam knocking each of the bits with a different hold and someone will likely try to make music out of it. :D
Adam: *reached up to tighten collet*
**powerdrill noises**
Me: Ah, I see
lilmurf000 it’s called a powered draw bar.
Pneumatic
Yeah I was wondering abut that - powered draw bar?
Sounds like an impact wrench
Grayson Osborn it’s basically the same thing, yeah.
These are awesome tools, used a lot in the automotive industry for cutting holes in frames, bumpers etc. There is also a variation with a spring loaded center point... better know as a spot weld cutter
I am a railways track engineer. In old times we used to use normal drill bits for drilling the rails for fishplates/joints or for fastening signaling cables. These days we have switched to annular cutters and this is wayyyyyyy faster and more convenient. We drill a hole in less than 1 minute and with a normal drill it takes even 10 minutes for a single hole. Also the hole is much cleaner whish is very important for avoiding fatigue crack formation or fissures starting from the holes as a source of stress concentration... I also love them.
5:34 Seeing the shreds flying around makes me want to don a full face shield.
You scared me going into that bird's nest with the coolant. We were told at college not to do that, they said it could snag you, and pull you in.
I saw the same thing, paused the video to see if anybody had commented. Oh jeez Adam needs to be more methodical and less hyper around these processes. No judgement here, but accidents happen in a split second.
It's a good way to get "Degloved". patients around power is never a bad thing
@@flymeetspaddle Patience so you don't become a patient. Those words are so similar and tricky.
@@flymeetspaddle if your wearing a glove around that in the first place, then you were taught wrong. Never ever wear gloves when operating a machine of any kind that produces chips.
@@mrfinder18 Sound advice but I think you have misunderstood what degloving means. It is something that happens to you even when you're not wearing gloves
"Why does it keep falling?.... stop it..."
Glad to know I'm not the only one that talks to their tools.
Me too
I love how Adam is so passionate about everything he does and knows, it's so inspiring!
When working with sheet metal in thinner applications a simple hole saw works wonders. Similar technique of slow speed, cutting fluid, and consistent pressure via drill press or mill works wonders.
This anullar cutter basically works as a reamer and a hole saw all in one.
I will be looking into getting a set of these anullar cutters for my sheet metal shop for thicker and more precise applications. I wonder if you could cut straight through square or rectangle tubing for reliably accurate pass through holes......
Great information Adam!
5:29 "How to Mulch Your Hands in An Instant" by Adam Savage
With super fine aluminum chips? Whats your skin made out of paper? Aluminum that fine wont do anything to hurt you its not like he tried grabbing it as tight as he could
@@tommys2979 as someone who is CNC-machining metals for a living let me tell you it happens when you least expect it.
Hey, At least he wasn't wearing gloves like 3/4 of the amateurs you see on TH-cam do arround rotation machinery.
Loose the gloves or loose a finger. Better to have a couple stitches in your thumb then not to have a thumb to get stitches in.
I've shattered a 3" Hougen annular bit when using a magdrill upside down. It wasn't a good day.
Any kind of sideloading on an annular bit ends up with it exploding.
Maybe on the tip. I use them to mill into tubes ok
Last time I saw someone use a magdrill upside down, his cutting fluid ran up the shaft and shorted the magnet and dropped the entire magdrill on his head. Adding a safety chain for himself turned it into a magdrill shaped wrecking ball to swing at his head. In the end, mistakes were made and lessons were learned!
@@descension7419 I've always said let it fall if the magnet goes out. My body is more important than a piece of equipment I don't care how expensive
I would like to say thank u for dinging the bit at the end such a satisfying sound lol good video
I use em all the time, both mag drill and milling machine and they are awesome. When drilling dont just plunge the bit in, thats how you end up with a fireball of artery slicing madness. Just let off a bit of pressure and it will kick out nice short chips and allow constant coolant flow.
Been using those for years now working on big rigs doing frame extensions, cutting holes to hang other accessories and other types of body implements. Mag drill is the best tool in a heavy equipment shop!
Try milling the hole on a rotary table. It's fast and very accurate.
Or a cnc.
@@theupscriber65 them circular interpolation codes be hitting different
What difference does it make to use rotary table vs a vise?
@@federicoromero6130 a vice is stationary a rotary table turns 360 degrees and you can make large hole with a small endmill by pitching out half the diameter on the Bridgeport mill, then taking a cut on the rotary table to finish the cut
the upscriber was going to say the same thing
This is the kind of thing that reminds me how different peoples lives are. I have used mag drills for ten years. But somehow Adam savage has never come across them with all the weird random stuff he has done in his career.
The guys from the steel shop just called them slug cutters and you can look them up that way funny he'd never seen one year right.
@@allenfunstuff people call things weird names. I’ve only ever heard of a fox tail in South Carolina. But all it is is a small hand brush you’d use to clean a table off. But people there call them fox tails.
I was hiring them out of a tool hire shop in the seventies.
Hougen makes some of the best bits and drills.
Adam I work for Tungaloy who makes indexable cutters. We have a new center cutting indexable end millfor this application. Your cutter however produces a slug vs. chips that you would have to dispose of. Our cutter is the closest thing to a mill drill with side cutting capability. This will leave a wonderful side finish to your part.
I took machine shop in highschool and the first thing that came to mind when you asked about making a hole that size was using a smaller end mill and my stomach turned at the thought. Watching it work through that aluminum as me completely sold on these, as soon as I get my own shop I am getting some annullar cutters
I don't care if you are cutting aluminum, use a pick, to pull cuttings away from the work area. Never grab cuttings , with your bare hand. If it's small chips, use a brush, if you try to wipe them away, 1 tiny stuck chip can slice your hand open. If it's the curls and lacy shit, that can cut you to the bone. Keep a long bent pick at your drill press, end mill, and lathe.
i trust any opinion from a beard like yours lol will be making a pick myself today :)
7:13
I demand a Show & Tell about the Hammerhead Shark
Is the appropriate head for inserting Nail Sharks into things...
Every tool is a hammer, is every shark a hammerhead shark?
He specifically covered it in another Tested video. Someone he knew found it in a dumpster and asked if he wanted it.
@@BillWilhelm That... is the most stupendously superfluous question anybody has ever asked.
Endmill and a rotary table on the ol’ Bridgeport.
I saw a homemade tool with a face-groover on a 1" square bar. The guy used it for cutting large precision holes in 1/2" and under plate. Ingenuity rules the world. I've also seen a 5/16" HSS lathe tool in the same type of setup for plug cutting. They both had drills in the center to stabilize everything.
I work as a CNC machinist at Edwards AFB, CA and I use those cutters quite often. We call them Slugger Cutters, because it leaves that fancy little slug in the middle. I've used them on steel and even Titanium. It takes longer, but if you have plenty of coolant and time, you can get through any material.
We cut through 1/8th and 1/4 in aluminum skins on our custom vehicles. We use standard hole saws. They're much cheaper. That said, for the 1/4 in, applying and releasing pressure repeatedly helps a lot, because hole saws don't have the spiral path to remove cut material. That said, one technique that works really well on floors with 1/2 aluminum is to drill 2 or three holes with a bit that's wider than the edge of the hole saw. Drill them to the inside edge of your cut so they don't impact the round outer circle you're cutting. These holes provide a place for material to fall through without lifting the hole saw and blowing out with compressed air. If the metal to cut is immovable, then one or two holes near the bottom still help, but on thicker stuff, pull the hole saw out often and check for chip buildup.
Even on wood, a hole saw will bind up on chips and literally burn wood if you don't manage the chips. The "drain holes" work great with a hole saw on 2x4's. With Wood, you can just power your way through and live with the heat, but it dulls your hole saw much faster, and peals the paint off in a hurry, so they rust, but as quickly as you dull them, you won't care about the rust unless you sharpen your own blades.
Drain holes, an ounce of preparation saves a gallon of sweat and tears. (saying by Heis Also)
We need a tshirt that says “that’s a lot of Adams to move around”
"That's a lot of Adams moving around'
That sentence took me a few seconds.
*atoms
I had the same reaction, I don't think he even noticed the possibility for the pun.
Only the most Savage of bits could move so many Adams.
@@GearHeadedHamster nailed it.
Protip: take a piece of steel banding off your next pallet you see, bend it in a v and use it to hold your parallels against your jaws
Yeah, I have a few pieces of old band saw blades that I bent into v springs for this.
yes....this tip....I like this tip
I always loved alcohol for cutting fluid on aluminum. It's amazing especially for tapping. Standard rubbing alcohol. Give it a try!
I used to make these at Hougen mfg. (Hougen Rotabroach are the best annular cutters in the world). Seeing them blast through a 60 Rockwell railroad rail in a few seconds was awe inspiring. The trick is that there isn't a center like a drill so the rpms can be much lower and keep the proper ips feed as not to increase wear.
It amazes me these haven't caught on for machining before, after all, hole saws have been used in wood-working for so long.
These are very different from a hole saw. Hole saws do not clear their own chips, making it difficult to get through thick material. Also if you're looking for good accuracy and surface finish an annular cutter will do much better.
@@Beanpapac15 But the basic principle of huge hole - tiny amount of material is shared between the two. It's just that this is better adapted to metal
As a structural iron worker that uses those on the daily I'm sad it took you that long to find them
Not long enough said the mechanical engineer
Its funny how he like instinctively just goes straight to his arm to measure things ever since he got the tattoo of a ruler on his arm 😂
I kinda wondered when he did that if he'd actually use it.
Time stamp??????
@@fourthpanda less then a minute in
@@fourthpanda 0:18
That is definitely my next tattoo
New subscriber - but your enthusiasm is infectious ! Love your honest opinions & straight talk. Your content should be required to any person who has the " I wonder how" in their DNA. Any young or old machinist would and can learn from your words of wisdom! I look forward to exploring all your videos. You have me hooked. Well done Sir!
I've used these on hougen mag drills. They saved my ass on time and money spent on inferior or incapable bits. Like you said, go slow and coolant is a must. I haven't tried it on the bridgeport but I think I will now.
Adam seems like he is alot more fun to drink with than Jamie lol
True, but Jamie would bust out some kind of ancient backwoods hooch that his family has been perfecting since the whiskey rebellion
Enjoy dissolving your conscience with your solvent of choice.
You drink with Adam, you smoke with Jamie
@@NM-zq5tf That's right, Jamie seems like just the kind of smart, reasonable, man that would experiment with psychedelics.
Idk, seems like jamie would blow stuff up while drinking.
Adam's a people person whos interested in tech, a geek.
Jamie is all tech. A nerd. They make a good team.
You putting your hand in the way of that spinning metal mess had me turning coal into diamonds if you know what I mean.
ucity metalhead oh please!
The way I can relate to Adams passion for nerdy machining tools like this makes me feel considerably less alone in the world... anyone else 😂
What the!? It surprises me that you are new to these. I'm a junior engineer and we use mag-based drills with these bits in the field all the time. Most common brand is rotabroach, it's so synonymous with the tool that often most annular cutters are referred as rotabroach.
I'm a sucker for real world practical knowledge. Thanks Mr. Savage
I use mag drills for work and they never run tht fast, I would check the speed u run it at
I've been calling these hollow endmills for years my life is a lie!!
I mean that is essentially what it is
Think I've been calling them hole saws
Yeah hole saws used on wood look very similar. Think these have been around in some format for a long time
I've been calling them Hoagan cutters and rotobroach since I first used them in the late 80's early 90's before that I used hole saws follow by boring bars
7:53 Missed out on saying that is a lot of me's to move around.
Use them quite often at work. Use them for ironworking and general fabrication on thick steel because we use big mag drills that need at least half an inch of steel to properly adhere without flying off the piece.
I would use a small version of these to remove spot welds on the race cars I was working on. They were incredible and made things so easy!
In industrial construction, we call this a “slugger bit”.
Really? because I work in construction and I wouldn't know what the hell you were talking about if you asked me for a slugger bit. Now if you asked me for a hole saw specifically a carbide hole saw I would hand you what you needed.
Us millwrights call them sluggers too also a rotor broach
Metal hole saw
In iron work I've heard them called a "slugger" mostly. I have also heard mag drill. Depends on the part of the country your working in.
That is a trepanning tool
7:52 "that is a lot of Adams to move around" lol
I am pissed that he missed the circle.
Basically a precision hole saw. That's pretty cool. We didn't mess around with these in AIT but I've seen them come up a lot while I've been researching other tools for work.
As an electrician I use hole saws for holes up to 8”. Simple drill, patience and some oil and I’ll get through anything. They are also relatively cheap since the teeth tend to break off.
I love how this kind of channel have a really weird and distorted view of a "home shop"
I mean not really I'm 24 live on a small farm and never had much money but I have a 12'x14' building that has a 4' long southbend lathe and a plasma table as well as many hand/power tools but I'm single without kids and spend my extra money on tools not other luxuries
Adam: "Annular cutters"
Me: "Harbularie cutters"
Draxx: *visible appreciation*
Dammit, you beat me to it.
I had to do some serious googling to understand this joke. Bravo
Read this comment in the morning, and i cant stop thinking about it! Seriously got me good!!!
Im so glad im not the only one who thought of this exact thing
Does Adam sell SAVAGE t-shirts? or just TESTED?
Yep, adamsavage.com
There is a link from adamsavage.com, but a direct link to Adam's shirts would be this: cottonbureau.com/stores/savage-merchandising#/shop
How are you, Adam Savage, only discovering these now lol. I use hole saws and annular cutters for anything over 1/2" in my home shop. With an adapter you can use these in a large robust drill press and or with a magnetic drill. You also need to respect proper speeds for each type of material and always go heavy on cutting fluid.
Oh my gourd, that bell sound at 2:25 is priceless! Nice Adamski, like always.
"How do you do this hole?"
Well a hole saw comes to mind before anything else...
Shutup Lenny
Glad I'm not the only one who thought the same thing. Its just aluminum, it would work just fine.
@@quistan2 it doesn’t tho. Material that thick clogs up the hole saw. Looks like the only difference between a hole saw and this annular bit is a way to evacuate the waste.
@@JohnBrowningsGhost It's really a non-issue if you back off the bit and blow it out frequently.
@@quistan2 but this is still a nicer cleaner method depending on type of holesaw.
And why not use them if you can.
I'm just surprised he hasn't been using these for years.
They've been round long enough but i guess it's amazing what things we might not see till you have them.
"That's a lot of Adam's to move around"
Adam, “on these spirals”; those are called “flutes”. Hope that helps in the future
Joel, on your comments... FUCK OFF.
Adam I have been a steel worker for years and have a lot of experience with these bits and if every 2 or 3 seconds you release pressure it will not build up with material. More so for hard product like steel but will save the bit for a lot longer.
Oh and touching that while it's still spinning at all could de glove you in a blink of an eye