I like your Dangar Marine t-shirt. That is a great youtube channel and he is a wealth of information. That volvo engine of yours is not 'user friendly' as far as working on it is concerned. Didn't you also have a problem with access to the drain plugs when you winterized?
As you i was once a novice boater. Love boats. Now at 69 years old and boating since 22 i still learn stuff. One thing seems to be a fact. Oat engines are manufactured without and regards for service. Just stuff the engine into the engine compartment and good to go. LOL. I have a 2002 5.7 Volvo engine. There are some improvements for access. One tip i learned after cracking two ribs from laying across the flame arrester. I put old pillows across to cushion me.
I have the exact same leak evidence you described on my Mercruiser 5.0. Just checked the stainless steel screw on style clamps and found the one nearest the leaks had loosened over time. I tightened it up and tested for leaks and voila, you've saved me a couple hundred dollars and lots of fun replacing that cooler. THANK YOU!
Thank you Wayne for recording these videos and providing excellent commentary on your Penta steering system's work. I am currently investigating my power steering fluid leak and hopefully will not need to replace the actuator nor the cooler.
I don't have a Volvo Penta or troubles with my power steering cooler (wherever it is on my Mercruiser) but I can appreciate this video showcasing the hardships of I/O boat maintenance. It makes me feel better about the times I've had to contort myself into the engine compartment to replace something. There's nothing more frustrating than replacing a part that turns out may not be bad, but we've all been there at some point or another. My next job is adjusting the shift cables since I'm suddenly having issues going into forward gear. Wish me luck.
Thanks for making the statement about manufacturers not installing unneeded parts. Many of these kind of parts are made by external companies and existing parts are sourced that will work for the engine manufacturer but sometimes the part is customized for the specific application for the engine builder. Not a fan of aftermarket parts these days but as you stated things like this is worth the gamble. Besides, now days you might be lucky just getting any make of replacement part.
Interesting, I have fluid going somewhere, this has given me a good start to look for a leak. Thank you very much for making the video. I have a mercruiser but should also have the same type system I would think. I will probably try the clamp leak first if I have the same system as the Volvo. Glad to have a place to start, thank you. Hope it is fixed.
We’re definitely experiencing a power steering leak internally through the cooler, we just took our boat out of storage today, after letting the engine run for a few minutes, I noticed the reservoir where you fill the power steering fluid, the fluid itself was all milky. I checked for leaks everywhere and nothing, the only thing that would make sense would be the cooler itself, since this is the only location where water and the fluid itself would meet together, hopefully next week we can order a new one
Wayne, appreciate the video, I had no idea what that gizmo even was LOL until I watched this, I had a line leaking on my Crownline with a 4.3, you had WAY more more room to work than I did, I had to remove the bracket that holds the 10 pin audible alarm just to see the cooler and that was a major pain, ended up having to take an angle grinder and shorten a 9/16 socket and then duct tape an extension on to a ratchet just to get the bottom bolt off and have room to get the socket and ratchet in there! I think for me my cooler was fine but a had a leak in a return line.
Cool, I have a Crownline 225 BR leaking. Just around out about an hour ago. Where was your leak in the return line? At the pump? I have the 350 2 barrel. Appreciate the response and Wayne for making the video.
The newer Volvo Penta engines (GM Motors) have the power steering cooler on one side. Wether it is worth it they do make kits that allow you to move the cooler forward for future needs. Volvo owner. All that stuff, fuel water separator filter and oil filter moved forward for easy access.
I been having problems with my low pressure hose leaking would that be the reason why cause I don't have one on it looks like the people I bought it from took it off
Found this vid while doing the exact same project as I type. First - I had a weeping power steering drip from the plastic clamp connection on one steering fluid line attached to the cooler years ago and changed to metal band. Due to a concerning change in engine running temperature, I traced the seawater hoses to the fuel reservoir where the lines also connect to the power steering cooler mounted on top - my Four Winns is exactly the same cooler type. Taking the water hoses off, shining a flashlight into the cooler itself exposed horrible clogs of debris and calcium deposits - the center core is honeycomb style. Your brand Mr Cool advises they've changed this problematic design to a better pass through channel they refer to as coils not honeycomb. INVALUABLE is your challenge on the connecting band that holds the cooler in place. This is why I came here in the first place. Am assuming it's a fixed bracket to the block or likewise, that the band itself is nut and bolted to. You're in better shape having that cooler replaced due to the blockage that was probably happening. Mine was so severe after never replacing it since new in 1994. This gave me starting issues of vapor lock after extended cruising, when shutting off for a while and then restarting - the fuel reservoir wasn't getting the cooling water it was designed for and probably cooking the fuel away! Crossing fingers this works! This cooler blockage discovery is part of thorough runthrough after replacing the main engine circulation pump and new seawater impeller. And using shop vac to test all cooling hoses for free movement. Even the exposed engine block openings when the main circulation pump was off, and the exhaust risers. All free movement. Wish me luck and thank you for this great vid.
One of the things I have learned by having an I/O is that it's usually not the "car" engine that is the problem - it's all the boat stuff that gets bolted to it!
@@WayneTheBoatGuy A "Marinized automotive engine" is a whole other ballpark eh? Makes all the difference to enjoy time on the water without the unexpected IF it's working as designed. Waiting on Mr Cool part now and can't wait to be done with this for peace of mind. 1994 Four Winns 190 Horizon with Ford 5.0 - and many important parts are now extinct. We do what we have to!
Really respect your honesty. You should have got some serious torch light in there and a mirror on a "stick". Just feeling for wetness on a leak only tells you there is a leak. If you have a marine engineer you trust they would have diagnosed that for you, for a small fee, then you could have decided if it was a job you wanted to take on. Much less than the price of a new cooler you maybe don't need : /
Yeah I haven’t had to reach out to a marine mechanic yet, and I know that around here they’re quite busy right now. I would imagine for them to come look at my boat in the marina it might be close to $100 - but that’s totally a guess.
@@WayneTheBoatGuy You need to make some friends.....( thats a joke ) must be some experienced boaters around you? Torch and a mirror would have diagnosed that leak. You're a good guy I'm sure there are lots of people who would help you.
I have for now. I have realized that my boat, being over 20 years old and having spent those years in brackish water marinas - basically needs everything replaced. I could just finish this job and replace all the hoses, clamps and pump OR just fix them as they break. I usually choose the second option.
Hello! I was a boat nut all my life. Four of the boats that owned me were I/O stern drives and they all had "Doghouse" style engine covers that you remove entirely to work on engine and components . Very easy to work on.Is it possible all of your engine cover can be removed??? If not the manufacturer should be shot or at least severely reprimanded!!! A few months back I had to lie on the inline 6 engine in my F150 to effect repairs and was in pain for about a week thereafter. No fun!!! We are not spring chickens anymore! CHEERS from westcoast B.C.Canada P.S. Great Dangar Stu shirt!!!
I can remove the rear seating area, but it's a 2 person job and we did it over the winter. The side panels and front panel can be removed, but that adds several hours to any project. Even if I do that, I still have to remove the batteries and water holding tank to really get any access, and the engine is still well below the floor. This boat was clearly designed for looks and seating, not accessibility for repairs and maintenance!
I only posted this because I had a leak at my cooler and found the leak by wrapping the in and out ports with paper towels and ran the boat for a bit, then carefully removed each paper and found the leak at the in port. I went ahead and changed both clamps and had no issues since.
I like your Dangar Marine t-shirt. That is a great youtube channel and he is a wealth of information. That volvo engine of yours is not 'user friendly' as far as working on it is concerned.
Didn't you also have a problem with access to the drain plugs when you winterized?
Yeah this engine sits low and far back… but I’m also no spring chicken.
As you i was once a novice boater. Love boats. Now at 69 years old and boating since 22 i still learn stuff. One thing seems to be a fact. Oat engines are manufactured without and regards for service. Just stuff the engine into the engine compartment and good to go. LOL. I have a 2002 5.7 Volvo engine. There are some improvements for access. One tip i learned after cracking two ribs from laying across the flame arrester. I put old pillows across to cushion me.
I have the exact same leak evidence you described on my Mercruiser 5.0. Just checked the stainless steel screw on style clamps and found the one nearest the leaks had loosened over time. I tightened it up and tested for leaks and voila, you've saved me a couple hundred dollars and lots of fun replacing that cooler. THANK YOU!
That's awesome!
Thank you Wayne for recording these videos and providing excellent commentary on your Penta steering system's work. I am currently investigating my power steering fluid leak and hopefully will not need to replace the actuator nor the cooler.
I don't have a Volvo Penta or troubles with my power steering cooler (wherever it is on my Mercruiser) but I can appreciate this video showcasing the hardships of I/O boat maintenance. It makes me feel better about the times I've had to contort myself into the engine compartment to replace something. There's nothing more frustrating than replacing a part that turns out may not be bad, but we've all been there at some point or another.
My next job is adjusting the shift cables since I'm suddenly having issues going into forward gear. Wish me luck.
Yeah some of these I/O engines can be a real challenge to work on.
This is exactly the info I was looking for, because my power steering cooler is leaking. Thank you!
Be sure to check to see if it isn't just a leak at a hose clamp first!
Thanks for sharing. Looked really challenging. Well done!
Thanks for making the statement about manufacturers not installing unneeded parts. Many of these kind of parts are made by external companies and existing parts are sourced that will work for the engine manufacturer but sometimes the part is customized for the specific application for the engine builder. Not a fan of aftermarket parts these days but as you stated things like this is worth the gamble. Besides, now days you might be lucky just getting any make of replacement part.
Interesting, I have fluid going somewhere, this has given me a good start to look for a leak. Thank you very much for making the video. I have a mercruiser but should also have the same type system I would think. I will probably try the clamp leak first if I have the same system as the Volvo. Glad to have a place to start, thank you. Hope it is fixed.
good luck!!
We’re definitely experiencing a power steering leak internally through the cooler, we just took our boat out of storage today, after letting the engine run for a few minutes, I noticed the reservoir where you fill the power steering fluid, the fluid itself was all milky. I checked for leaks everywhere and nothing, the only thing that would make sense would be the cooler itself, since this is the only location where water and the fluid itself would meet together, hopefully next week we can order a new one
Did that solve the problem?
Wayne, appreciate the video, I had no idea what that gizmo even was LOL until I watched this, I had a line leaking on my Crownline with a 4.3, you had WAY more more room to work than I did, I had to remove the bracket that holds the 10 pin audible alarm just to see the cooler and that was a major pain, ended up having to take an angle grinder and shorten a 9/16 socket and then duct tape an extension on to a ratchet just to get the bottom bolt off and have room to get the socket and ratchet in there! I think for me my cooler was fine but a had a leak in a return line.
Dang. I/O engines are quite a challenge to work on!
Cool, I have a Crownline 225 BR leaking. Just around out about an hour ago. Where was your leak in the return line? At the pump? I have the 350 2 barrel. Appreciate the response and Wayne for making the video.
The newer Volvo Penta engines (GM Motors) have the power steering cooler on one side. Wether it is worth it they do make kits that allow you to move the cooler forward for future needs. Volvo owner. All that stuff, fuel water separator filter and oil filter moved forward for easy access.
That's good to know!
Thank you, this was very helpful
Glad it was helpful!
I been having problems with my low pressure hose leaking would that be the reason why cause I don't have one on it looks like the people I bought it from took it off
Found this vid while doing the exact same project as I type. First - I had a weeping power steering drip from the plastic clamp connection on one steering fluid line attached to the cooler years ago and changed to metal band. Due to a concerning change in engine running temperature, I traced the seawater hoses to the fuel reservoir where the lines also connect to the power steering cooler mounted on top - my Four Winns is exactly the same cooler type. Taking the water hoses off, shining a flashlight into the cooler itself exposed horrible clogs of debris and calcium deposits - the center core is honeycomb style. Your brand Mr Cool advises they've changed this problematic design to a better pass through channel they refer to as coils not honeycomb. INVALUABLE is your challenge on the connecting band that holds the cooler in place. This is why I came here in the first place. Am assuming it's a fixed bracket to the block or likewise, that the band itself is nut and bolted to. You're in better shape having that cooler replaced due to the blockage that was probably happening. Mine was so severe after never replacing it since new in 1994. This gave me starting issues of vapor lock after extended cruising, when shutting off for a while and then restarting - the fuel reservoir wasn't getting the cooling water it was designed for and probably cooking the fuel away! Crossing fingers this works! This cooler blockage discovery is part of thorough runthrough after replacing the main engine circulation pump and new seawater impeller. And using shop vac to test all cooling hoses for free movement. Even the exposed engine block openings when the main circulation pump was off, and the exhaust risers. All free movement. Wish me luck and thank you for this great vid.
One of the things I have learned by having an I/O is that it's usually not the "car" engine that is the problem - it's all the boat stuff that gets bolted to it!
@@WayneTheBoatGuy A "Marinized automotive engine" is a whole other ballpark eh? Makes all the difference to enjoy time on the water without the unexpected IF it's working as designed. Waiting on Mr Cool part now and can't wait to be done with this for peace of mind. 1994 Four Winns 190 Horizon with Ford 5.0 - and many important parts are now extinct. We do what we have to!
Any idea what size socket you used to loosen the the clamp that actually holds the cooling unit in Place? Otherwise I'm taking a sawzall to it!
sorry - I don't recall. Good luck!!
Really respect your honesty. You should have got some serious torch light in there and a mirror on a "stick". Just feeling for wetness on a leak only tells you there is a leak. If you have a marine engineer you trust they would have diagnosed that for you, for a small fee, then you could have decided if it was a job you wanted to take on. Much less than the price of a new cooler you maybe don't need : /
Yeah I haven’t had to reach out to a marine mechanic yet, and I know that around here they’re quite busy right now. I would imagine for them to come look at my boat in the marina it might be close to $100 - but that’s totally a guess.
@@WayneTheBoatGuy You need to make some friends.....( thats a joke ) must be some experienced boaters around you? Torch and a mirror would have diagnosed that leak. You're a good guy I'm sure there are lots of people who would help you.
Get yourself a couple of telescopic inspection mirrors.....reaches the parts we can't haha. Enjoy your films keep em coming.
Great videos thanks. I have a FW with a VP and am having leaks wanted to know did you finally fix the leak?
I have for now. I have realized that my boat, being over 20 years old and having spent those years in brackish water marinas - basically needs everything replaced. I could just finish this job and replace all the hoses, clamps and pump OR just fix them as they break. I usually choose the second option.
Please excuse me Is this an oil cooler with oil running through it?
This one has engine cooling water and power steering fluid going through it.
Hello! I was a boat nut all my life. Four of the boats that owned me were I/O stern drives and they all had "Doghouse" style engine covers that you remove entirely to work on engine and components . Very easy to work on.Is it possible all of your engine cover can be removed??? If not the manufacturer should be shot or at least severely reprimanded!!! A few months back I had to lie on the inline 6 engine in my F150 to effect repairs and was in pain for about a week thereafter. No fun!!! We are not spring chickens anymore! CHEERS from westcoast B.C.Canada P.S. Great Dangar Stu shirt!!!
I can remove the rear seating area, but it's a 2 person job and we did it over the winter. The side panels and front panel can be removed, but that adds several hours to any project. Even if I do that, I still have to remove the batteries and water holding tank to really get any access, and the engine is still well below the floor. This boat was clearly designed for looks and seating, not accessibility for repairs and maintenance!
great vid. Do yourself a favor and replace those plastic clips with a SS clamp, they will leak eventually
I only posted this because I had a leak at my cooler and found the leak by wrapping the in and out ports with paper towels and ran the boat for a bit, then carefully removed each paper and found the leak at the in port. I went ahead and changed both clamps and had no issues since.
That's a VERY Good tip!