Nice quick and concise way to do a coolant change on the NK1. Well done! I like the idea by utilizing the fluid transfer pump ( harbor freight here I come)🤣. The last coolant change I did was on my SV 650 and I used a 50/50 mix of asian vehicle specific coolant that was orange in color. What say ye ? Thanks for again for the informative vlog!
The fluid transfer pump definitely saves on mess and makes it a lot easier. The coolant should be fine but I will say best practice is to flush the system so it's all the same coolant and doesn't mix with another kind. Even so, regular green is usually cheapest so I just stick with it.
Yea, will do that next time for sure. I have had a two motorcycles where you do that and nothing comes out, so you are stuck with it coming out with a lot of force. I do not know if the same thing would happen on the SX, but will definitely try it next time.
6MM - I am not positive of the material, but I am pretty sure it is aluminum as most are. You can use copper. The only downside to using copper is it will oxidize being a different metal than the engine (which is aluminum). However, with all the bikes I have done work on, I have never had an issue using copper in place of aluminum, but if you can find a 6mm aluminum crush washer at a reasonable price then that would be the recommendation by Kawasaki
Just a quick note. Phosphate is bad for aluminum engines as it promotes scale formation. If youre going to use pre-stone get the bottle that says max European teal since bmw requires you not to have phosphate in your coolant so its safe for motorcycles.
@@BlueEyedRider84 the shop I work at uses regular prestone coolant for atv but thats because atv guys dont keep their coolant longer than 1 year. If you change it often than regular is fine but for street bikes that do it at 36,000kms like you said I wouldnt use prestone “all vehicles”. I do mine kinda earlier around 10,000 to 15,000kms
So, in regards to anti freeze, for those of us that live down under, the temperature here, even in the coldest days of winter (right now for us at time of writing) never drops below 0, is it still a necessity to use it??
You must use some form of anti-corrosive/lubricative coolant alternative. Racers use stuff like redline water wetter: amzn.to/3WgIuuZ If you run plain distilled water your system will eventually corrode and the water pump will fail.
If it were me I'd tap into an accessory. As in a part that can be replaced and not the main harness. For example, DC accessory port, heated grips, usb accessory under rear seat. If those are not an option then you can tap into the connection for any of those. If you have a 2020+ they come with blanks that you can easily get the metal wire tabs for and make your own connector. I do not and never recommend splicing in the main harness. That leads to corrosion and eventually many other electrical issues if it isn't sealed and done perfectly.
If it were me I'd tap into an accessory. As in a part that can be replaced and not the main harness. For example, DC accessory port, heated grips, usb accessory under rear seat. If those are not an option then you can tap into the connection for any of those. If you have a 2020+ they come with blanks that you can easily get the metal wire tabs for and make your own connector. I do not and never recommend splicing in the main harness. That leads to corrosion and eventually many other electrical issues if it isn't sealed and done perfectly.
Thx. I already tried the USB in the rear by using posi tap connectors and I get no power and same for the plug where 12DC is on the front left. I even started the bike to make sure. I wonder what I’m doing wrong?
@MrJohnNapolitano I assume you have tested the lights from another source or direct to battery? One thing I didn't think about is if it's 12v going to that rear usb. It should be and the conversion done in the USB part, but I'd have to double check to be sure it isn't 5v going there
What an amazing work and explain, thanks for sharing your knowledge.
My pleasure!
Thanks will watch later
Great, if you have any questions, don't hesitate to ask
Nice quick and concise way to do a coolant change on the NK1. Well done! I like the idea by utilizing the fluid transfer pump ( harbor freight here I come)🤣. The last coolant change I did was on my SV 650 and I used a 50/50 mix of asian vehicle specific coolant that was orange in color. What say ye ?
Thanks for again for the informative vlog!
The fluid transfer pump definitely saves on mess and makes it a lot easier.
The coolant should be fine but I will say best practice is to flush the system so it's all the same coolant and doesn't mix with another kind. Even so, regular green is usually cheapest so I just stick with it.
Great video.. thanks.. really appreciate the step given.. next time try to open drain bolt before radiator cap
Yea, will do that next time for sure. I have had a two motorcycles where you do that and nothing comes out, so you are stuck with it coming out with a lot of force. I do not know if the same thing would happen on the SX, but will definitely try it next time.
Thanks for the video.. keep it up!
Salve, grazie per i video semplici e comprensibili, potrei sapere la misura della rondella del bullone di scarico e di che materiale è fatta? Grazie
6MM - I am not positive of the material, but I am pretty sure it is aluminum as most are. You can use copper. The only downside to using copper is it will oxidize being a different metal than the engine (which is aluminum). However, with all the bikes I have done work on, I have never had an issue using copper in place of aluminum, but if you can find a 6mm aluminum crush washer at a reasonable price then that would be the recommendation by Kawasaki
@ grazie
Just a quick note. Phosphate is bad for aluminum engines as it promotes scale formation. If youre going to use pre-stone get the bottle that says max European teal since bmw requires you not to have phosphate in your coolant so its safe for motorcycles.
Not a bad recommendation.
@@BlueEyedRider84 the shop I work at uses regular prestone coolant for atv but thats because atv guys dont keep their coolant longer than 1 year. If you change it often than regular is fine but for street bikes that do it at 36,000kms like you said I wouldnt use prestone “all vehicles”. I do mine kinda earlier around 10,000 to 15,000kms
So, in regards to anti freeze, for those of us that live down under, the temperature here, even in the coldest days of winter (right now for us at time of writing) never drops below 0, is it still a necessity to use it??
You must use some form of anti-corrosive/lubricative coolant alternative. Racers use stuff like redline water wetter: amzn.to/3WgIuuZ
If you run plain distilled water your system will eventually corrode and the water pump will fail.
Can you tell me the easiest way to tap into switched power for 2 small LED lights I want to install?
If it were me I'd tap into an accessory. As in a part that can be replaced and not the main harness. For example, DC accessory port, heated grips, usb accessory under rear seat. If those are not an option then you can tap into the connection for any of those. If you have a 2020+ they come with blanks that you can easily get the metal wire tabs for and make your own connector.
I do not and never recommend splicing in the main harness. That leads to corrosion and eventually many other electrical issues if it isn't sealed and done perfectly.
If it were me I'd tap into an accessory. As in a part that can be replaced and not the main harness. For example, DC accessory port, heated grips, usb accessory under rear seat. If those are not an option then you can tap into the connection for any of those. If you have a 2020+ they come with blanks that you can easily get the metal wire tabs for and make your own connector.
I do not and never recommend splicing in the main harness. That leads to corrosion and eventually many other electrical issues if it isn't sealed and done perfectly.
Thx. I already tried the USB in the rear by using posi tap connectors and I get no power and same for the plug where 12DC is on the front left. I even started the bike to make sure. I wonder what I’m doing wrong?
Add what’s strange is I ran the rear USB to my phone and it works, but when I tap into the wires before the factory plug USB feed, no power.
@MrJohnNapolitano I assume you have tested the lights from another source or direct to battery?
One thing I didn't think about is if it's 12v going to that rear usb. It should be and the conversion done in the USB part, but I'd have to double check to be sure it isn't 5v going there