What a job I thought it was only me that had them! I was holding my breath every time the socket went on the stud! Well back to my problem, trying to get the hub nut off the DYANE front hub.Thanks for the video Mark look forward to plan 2.
So was I Steve, the feel between initial turning and shearing off is very similar. Hub nuts, I used to get someone in the car to hold the brake down firmly then a long breaker bar usually got them off but you have probably tried that already. Thanks for watching!
What a clever tool! (That sounded wrong.....!) Thanks for sharing the complete account of your efforts, warts and all. That's very useful for people like me. (Just a thought: "It's a nut you pillock!" would look good on a t-shirt. I'd buy one.) Your efforts remind me of when I had to do a similar thing to my one-year-old '76 2CV6. Fortunately they came out very, very easily. (I'm not helping much, am I!) but rust is not my friend. Your patience, as always, shines through. Thanks for this video 👍
Hi Keith, the stud extractors are really useful, well worth the small amount that they cost. Maybe I should get myself a T shirt made, it sums up the channel quite well I think. As usual mate, thanks for watching!
Hi there, I had the same problem when I restored the 2cv engine in My Lomax. I bought a more universal stud extractor that looks like a large drill chuck but the jaws are reverse threaded so as You loosen they tighten down more. It has a 1/2 inch socket drive for a long bar or as I used a battery impact driver. I put quite a lot of heat from My propane blowtorch and "blatted" them with My impact driver. three came out no problem one broke off! well it would : - )
Sounds like a useful bit of kit, but there always seems to be one stud that doesn't want to play ball and you have to drill and tap, which is what I ended up doing.
I've got this exact problem. My dad and i were just looking into how to solved this 5 minutes ago when i saw yout new video... talk about timing. I look forward to the snapped stud video, one of mine is snapped too
Do those stud removers lock up in the other direction so you can work the stud back and forth? If you had filed a couple of small flats on this stud would the rollers have locked up better? Have you tried heat and a freezer spray? Some exhaust studs have a coarse thread on the half that is threaded into the head plus a finer thread for the nut. I think it's usual for alloy? However this is Citroen! I'm guessing that you will drill out the old stud but if you have access to a spark erosion machine that would prove interesting to watch. I had someone years ago use one to get the snapped off easy-out and the errant stud from a cast iron manifold. High tech back then but it was very quick so the cost wasn't exorbitant. Good and useful content. Thanks. Congrats on breaking 500 subscribers.
Hi, I believe the rollers will grip in both directions. I have not tried the freezer spray, is it any good? The split thread studs will feature in another BSA video on the way as they used that type for the inlets mounts. I am not a fan of easy outs as they are brittle and spark erosion is indeed pretty much your only option. Luckily I haven't had to have it done recently but given the rising costs of all types of engineering work now I fear it might have gone up quite a lot ( or maybe it is just the firms willing to do motorcycle work. ) Glad you liked it and thanks for watching!
@@oldnutsgarage I bought some freeze spray, plumbers type from Wickes, but found my little camping gas blowlamp didn't have the welly to heat up the iron manifold for the studs. They eventually came out using just the heat and the 2 nut method. Steel stud in alloy as here, it might be better to heat the stud and than give that a spray to break the bond. For £10 it's worth a try if you have a really good torch or acetylene kit. I've seen a method that melts a candle into the the very hot joint and that does seem to work.
I have some more to do longer term so will give the freeze spray a go. I miss my oxy acetylene though as that would heat the stud up quickly, which might have been good in conjunction with the spray as you suggest. Thanks for watching!
Great videos really enjoy them. Have you ever tried Allum orr 'Potasium aluminium sulphate'? Takes days but works if set up right, never tried on a 2CV though..
Hi Jan, I could have soaked it in penetrating oil, but have found it to be of limited use on exhaust studs as they are usually very tight, as these were. No harm in trying though. Thanks for watching!
I also had the same problem, so I drilled a pilot hole and tried to take the stud out using an easy out. This did work, however it also split the flange. The only way I can think of doing now is to put a longer stud in with a nut underneath the flange. Your thoughts please.
Hi George, hard to say without seeing it but a through bolt with a wide washer from the underside might be a cheap and easy solution. If the crack was really bad then welding the whole lot up and re-drilling would be the safest, but expensive. If the crack was not too big then using a new stud with one of the heavier grades of Locktite might work as there is no movement once the manifold is bolted down. Thanks for watching!
i´ve drilled them out by 6,5mm, cut a new hole with M8 and bought new studs from franzose which are half m7 and on the opposit side M8.
Hi Tom, I have seen the unequal ended studs for sale but have not tried them yet, but they seem like a good idea. Thanks for watching!
What a job I thought it was only me that had them! I was holding my breath every time the socket went on the stud! Well back to my problem, trying to get the hub nut off the DYANE front hub.Thanks for the video Mark look forward to plan 2.
So was I Steve, the feel between initial turning and shearing off is very similar. Hub nuts, I used to get someone in the car to hold the brake down firmly then a long breaker bar usually got them off but you have probably tried that already. Thanks for watching!
What a clever tool! (That sounded wrong.....!)
Thanks for sharing the complete account of your efforts, warts and all. That's very useful for people like me.
(Just a thought: "It's a nut you pillock!" would look good on a t-shirt. I'd buy one.)
Your efforts remind me of when I had to do a similar thing to my one-year-old '76 2CV6. Fortunately they came out very, very easily. (I'm not helping much, am I!) but rust is not my friend. Your patience, as always, shines through.
Thanks for this video 👍
Hi Keith, the stud extractors are really useful, well worth the small amount that they cost. Maybe I should get myself a T shirt made, it sums up the channel quite well I think. As usual mate, thanks for watching!
Hi there, I had the same problem when I restored the 2cv engine in My Lomax. I bought a more universal stud extractor that looks like a large drill chuck but the jaws are reverse threaded so as You loosen they tighten down more. It has a 1/2 inch socket drive for a long bar or as I used a battery impact driver. I put quite a lot of heat from My propane blowtorch and "blatted" them with My impact driver. three came out no problem one broke off! well it would : - )
Sounds like a useful bit of kit, but there always seems to be one stud that doesn't want to play ball and you have to drill and tap, which is what I ended up doing.
Anti-seize is great with stainless nuts and bolts, Loctite is one brand I've used.
Great, thanks for the tip !
I've got this exact problem. My dad and i were just looking into how to solved this 5 minutes ago when i saw yout new video... talk about timing. I look forward to the snapped stud video, one of mine is snapped too
Wow, a bit of a coincidence there ! Snapped stud is a lot less fun though but we will give it a go. Thanks for watching!
Do those stud removers lock up in the other direction so you can work the stud back and forth?
If you had filed a couple of small flats on this stud would the rollers have locked up better?
Have you tried heat and a freezer spray?
Some exhaust studs have a coarse thread on the half that is threaded into the head plus a finer thread for the nut. I think it's usual for alloy? However this is Citroen!
I'm guessing that you will drill out the old stud but if you have access to a spark erosion machine that would prove interesting to watch. I had someone years ago use one to get the snapped off easy-out and the errant stud from a cast iron manifold. High tech back then but it was very quick so the cost wasn't exorbitant.
Good and useful content. Thanks.
Congrats on breaking 500 subscribers.
Hi, I believe the rollers will grip in both directions. I have not tried the freezer spray, is it any good? The split thread studs will feature in another BSA video on the way as they used that type for the inlets mounts. I am not a fan of easy outs as they are brittle and spark erosion is indeed pretty much your only option. Luckily I haven't had to have it done recently but given the rising costs of all types of engineering work now I fear it might have gone up quite a lot ( or maybe it is just the firms willing to do motorcycle work. ) Glad you liked it and thanks for watching!
@@oldnutsgarage I bought some freeze spray, plumbers type from Wickes, but found my little camping gas blowlamp didn't have the welly to heat up the iron manifold for the studs. They eventually came out using just the heat and the 2 nut method. Steel stud in alloy as here, it might be better to heat the stud and than give that a spray to break the bond. For £10 it's worth a try if you have a really good torch or acetylene kit. I've seen a method that melts a candle into the the very hot joint and that does seem to work.
I have some more to do longer term so will give the freeze spray a go. I miss my oxy acetylene though as that would heat the stud up quickly, which might have been good in conjunction with the spray as you suggest. Thanks for watching!
Great videos really enjoy them. Have you ever tried Allum orr 'Potasium aluminium sulphate'? Takes days but works if set up right, never tried on a 2CV though..
Hi, I cannot say I have ever tried that, I will look it up and give it a go and see what happens. Thanks for watching !
Why not drown it with penetrating oil for a few days before heating it?
Hi Jan, I could have soaked it in penetrating oil, but have found it to be of limited use on exhaust studs as they are usually very tight, as these were. No harm in trying though. Thanks for watching!
I also had the same problem, so I drilled a pilot hole and tried to take the stud out using an easy out. This did work, however it also split the flange. The only way I can think of doing now is to put a longer stud in with a nut underneath the flange. Your thoughts please.
Hi George, hard to say without seeing it but a through bolt with a wide washer from the underside might be a cheap and easy solution. If the crack was really bad then welding the whole lot up and re-drilling would be the safest, but expensive. If the crack was not too big then using a new stud with one of the heavier grades of Locktite might work as there is no movement once the manifold is bolted down. Thanks for watching!