I watched all 4 parts of your doohickey video's. Thank you so much for all the details you put into it, it's hugely appreciated. Especially the part about what to look for to see if your doohickey has been replaced yet. I purchased my KLR used (I'm the 3rd owner) and the previous owner claims the doohickey was replaced, but I am going to remove the outer cover and take a look for myself. I've been apprehensive to adjust it until I can prove if it's been replaced. Thanks again and happy trails!
You provided a clean visual environment for instruction. I know you must have done a lot of prep and it shows awesome. My spring went at the 7 o'clock position. Oh boy was that fun.
Thank you so much sir. Top dead center made it easier to line the woodruff key. I was hesitant about the gap between the flywheel and the shaft but the grease mark it made on the flywheel remover confirmed I had it ok.
Thanks so very much, Basically I think Ive learnt a lot better than some previous similar tutorials... fortunately this is the best so far... Yep you heard me right... THE BEST!!! Keep those KLRs Rolling. Vrroooomm!!!
Thank you for this. Part of due diligence before I launch into it. Same as when I did the thermo bob. Good work, as the special tips make a big difference.
Hi Peter, I'm glad you found it helpful, and thanks for commenting. The job is not all that hard, especially when you know what to expect and with attention to detail. Have fun with it! Tom
great video, very helpful, eagle mikes current doohickey replacement no longer has the grind marks you referred to, but they are a bit shinier. again; great job, Thanks!
Hi friend l have been watching yours vídeos and l have been learning about the doohickey lam trying to change the orings because muy horse smoked spend oil when take off the cilinder one small piece down inside of the room of the chain timing and l had to open this side l had good lucky why l watched the doohickey was broken my son told me he eard something inside of my horse thanks a lot.see you later from PARRAS DE LA FUENTE COAHUILA MÉXICO
Supposedly you can. You need to be able to fish the old spring out, and I hear it is easier if the spring has broken. It's supposed to be possible, though, to get one out that isn't broken. Drilling the hole for the torsion spring can be done with the case on the motor as long as you're careful to get all the chips out. I've never done it that way. Tom
I have watched this and the other video's and have done something wrong. After the motor warms up I am hearing an occasional scraping noise. I am totally baffled. Made sure all the shim washers were correct.
It's hard to diagnose noises when I can't hear them! The nature of the sound, under what conditions it happens, at what speed, etc, are all clues. It's usually better to try and get help in a community environment. I would suggest that you go to one of the forums, such as KLRForum, and start a thread. It's the old 'two heads are better than one' sort of thing. I can tell you what I'd probably do if it were my bike. I would pull the side cover back off, remove the rotor, and make sure that the two thick washers are behind the starter clutch, that there is one thin large diameter washer between the starter clutch hub and the rotor, that the key is not damaged, and that the washer behind the eccentric is still there, and that the four thrust washers for the starter gears are in place, and make sure the torsion spring didn't pop off and that its coils were properly stuffed onto the lever. That's pretty much all that you could have disturbed when doing the work and those are the common issues. Taking you at your word that all the washers are correct, what I would suggest as a possibility is that the torsion spring is not properly stuffed onto the lever or has pooped loose. The early aftermarket levers often had a bit of an interference with the starter clutch ring gear and that is the reason that the lever is relieved. If the spring is not stuffed onto the spring and captured int eh groove, then it could be rubbing on the ring gear. If it has become disconnected it could do the same. Unfortunately, the rotor has to come off in any case.
When you installed the doohicky you snugged down the bolt while pushing the doohicky to the left for the spring to hook to it easier. Then you pushed the spring in towards the engine to snug it in. Are'nt you suppose to loosen the bolt a little to allow the doohicky to move with the spring tension ? If the doohicky is snugged down then what is the purpose of the spring ?
T-Bone, The spring pulls the lever to the left. After I have pushed the lever to the left in order to take up all the slack in the system and make it easier to install the spring, there's no real point in loosening the bolt after the spring is installed. At that point in time, all the slack is taken up. In a few thousand miles, say at the next oil change, then the engine should be set to top dead center, the bolt loosened, the case rapped with a soft mallet, and the spring will do its job to move the lever to the left and take up the slack. This is a periodic adjustment that needs to be done. And, of course, the lever should never be allowed to run loose without the bolt tightened. Tom
@@souperdoo I was wondering if you could help me with the proper routing of fuel lines and vaccum hoses from the carburetor to petcock and vents ? 2008 gen 2. I've checked all kinds of diagrams and forums but I'm still a little confused as to what goes where. Mainly the two plastic 90° top and bottom on left side of carb and the brass fitting top right on carb. Sir you seem to be the guru of all that is KLR so I subscribed to your channel for your wealth of wisdom ! Thanks in advance.
@@t-bone9403 Happy to do that! The Gen 2 has a brass fitting with two barbs on it. One is for the Air Injection System, and the other is for the vacuum-operated petcock. If you have removed the AIS, then block off its barb. If you have replaced the OEM petcock with a manual petcock, block off its barb. I like to use a properly sized plastic screw protector. They come in various sizes and are made from a very flexible plastic that doesn’t degrade as a neoprene one will. You can find them at places like ACE hardware. If you have both the AIS and the OEM petcock, they need to have vacuum hoses running to the fitting in order to function and it doesn’t matter which barb they are connected to. On the carb, the gray elbow at the top is the carb vent. It must be open or the carb won’t work. Its hose should be routed to a place where it can both breathe and won’t get water in it. Many folks will put a T fitting in the line and run one leg up the backbone of the frame toward the front of the frame and the other hose down along the subframe under the seat. The routing of the lines is fairly simple, just make them as direct as possible and avoid routing next to the exhaust pipe for the AIS and for the carb vent. If you never go near a water crossing then the carb vent doesn't really need to have a hose at all. Use a 1/8" (3mm) vacuum hose for the connection to the back of the OEM petcock and to the AIS. It is smaller in outside diameter and more flexible than a braided line. It is easier to route. The lower elbow is the fuel inlet. The hose goes from the petcock's outlet straight into the black elbow. Use Tygon line, as it is clear (yellow), very flexible, easy to work with, and remains flexible. Both of these elbows have O-rings on them which seal them to the carb body. If you take the fittings off it is a good idea to refresh the O-rings. Tom
I had a gen two KLR ,and now the gen three. The gen 3 manual says nothing about the doohicky. I herd somewere Kaw upgraded it for 2023. My question is the instructions the same torque, procedures etc as the 2022 ?
There has been no change to the balancer adjuster design for 2023. No design change, no upgrade to parts. The adjustment procedure is the same as it has been since the first KLR650.
I recently acquired a non running KLR. In the course of trying to trouble shoot, I discovered rotating the crank assembly seemed to turn the starter motor(as noted by a gear winding sound, and significant drag) I'm trying to determine if there is a free wheeling gear on the big sprocket in front of the flywheel. If so, does mine sound faulty? Thank you....
The big ring gear on the back of the rotor (flywheel) has a one-way clutch interface with the rotor. If you hand-turn the engine counter clockwise that gear should not drive the starter gears. If it does, something is wrong. If you turn the engine clockwise you run the risk of jumping timing on the cams. Turning it clockwise would probably engage the clutch and drive the starter gears backwards.
souperdoo I was coming to terms with an unexpected level of complication in order to set the machine back in good order. Thanks for the insight and yes your videos are very helpful and much appreciated. Best regards!
This is the one I use and I have no problems with it. There was no real reason to prefer this one over any other. It is simply the one that was most available/first found when I wanted one. cv-performance.com/harley_mixture_screw_tuning Tom
Well, yes and no. The spring is typically too long and runs out of adjustment very quickly. That needs replacing. As long as you are in that far and have that much invested in the effort, it is foolish not to put a new lever in with the torsion spring. The spring has been reported to run out of tension within the first 5K miles. Some last longer, some don't. The lever itself, on the Gen 2 bikes (post '08), was redesigned and doesn't break, but only replacing the spring make no sense. More than you wanted to know: th-cam.com/video/xt7a87B2eqU/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/WAryJKr72KM/w-d-xo.html www.souperdoo.com/stuff%20that%20i%20think%20about/doohickey Tom
I watched all 4 parts of your doohickey video's. Thank you so much for all the details you put into it, it's hugely appreciated. Especially the part about what to look for to see if your doohickey has been replaced yet. I purchased my KLR used (I'm the 3rd owner) and the previous owner claims the doohickey was replaced, but I am going to remove the outer cover and take a look for myself. I've been apprehensive to adjust it until I can prove if it's been replaced. Thanks again and happy trails!
You’ve really done an excellent job with this one. From one klr man to another,thank you very much.
Hi Shawn,
You're most welcome and I'm glad that you found the videos useful!
Tom
By Far....The Best Doohickey Videos on You Tube..Job Well Done.
Thanks for that! It was a hoot to shoot, even the cutting my thumb off part...
Tom
You provided a clean visual environment for instruction. I know you must have done a lot of prep and it shows awesome.
My spring went at the 7 o'clock position. Oh boy was that fun.
+Cube210 Thanks! Yeah, putting those springs on at that position is a bear. You're a better man than I for managing to get it on!
Tom
Thank you so much sir. Top dead center made it easier to line the woodruff key. I was hesitant about the gap between the flywheel and the shaft but the grease mark it made on the flywheel remover confirmed I had it ok.
Excellent video series. Thanks for sharing.👍
Hi,
I'm happy to hear that you found them worthwhile, and thank you for the compliment!
Tom
Very nicely done, picked up a few tips I didn't get on other doohickey videos! Thanks!
Glad to hear yo found it useful, Derrell.
Thanks!
Tom
awesome video series... thanks for taking the time to record, edit and provide all these step by step tips! much appreciated!
Hi,
Thanks for the comment!
Tom
Best doohickey vid I’ve seen. Thanks for attention to detail.
Thanks, Freddie, I'm glad you thought it was useful.
Tom
Thanks so very much, Basically I think Ive learnt a lot better than some previous similar tutorials... fortunately this is the best so far... Yep you heard me right... THE BEST!!! Keep those KLRs Rolling. Vrroooomm!!!
Hi Brett,
Thanks!
Tom
Thank you very much for the thorough and knowledgeable videos!
Even the camera work is great.
Thanks Jeff! I'm happy that you found it useful.
Tom
Thanks for this series. It's helped me with my doo today.
Thank you for this. Part of due diligence before I launch into it. Same as when I did the thermo bob. Good work, as the special tips make a big difference.
Hi Peter,
I'm glad you found it helpful, and thanks for commenting.
The job is not all that hard, especially when you know what to expect and with attention to detail.
Have fun with it!
Tom
great video, very helpful, eagle mikes current doohickey replacement no longer has the grind marks you referred to, but they are a bit shinier. again; great job, Thanks!
Hi friend l have been watching yours vídeos and l have been learning about the doohickey lam trying to change the orings because muy horse smoked spend oil when take off the cilinder one small piece down inside of the room of the chain timing and l had to open this side l had good lucky why l watched the doohickey was broken my son told me he eard something inside of my horse thanks a lot.see you later from PARRAS DE LA FUENTE COAHUILA MÉXICO
Great series superdoo, having done the same on my channel I know a good one when I see it. Ride Safe!
Very good,thanks
Thanks for such.a well done, detailed video.
You're welcome!
Tom
This video helps me full 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Thank you!
I am happy it was useful to you, Darby.
Tom
Great series thanks...I've been told I could do the do without removing the inner case, what do you think?
Supposedly you can. You need to be able to fish the old spring out, and I hear it is easier if the spring has broken. It's supposed to be possible, though, to get one out that isn't broken.
Drilling the hole for the torsion spring can be done with the case on the motor as long as you're careful to get all the chips out.
I've never done it that way.
Tom
I have watched this and the other video's and have done something wrong. After the motor warms up I am hearing an occasional scraping noise. I am totally baffled. Made sure all the shim washers were correct.
It's hard to diagnose noises when I can't hear them! The nature of the sound, under what conditions it happens, at what speed, etc, are all clues. It's usually better to try and get help in a community environment.
I would suggest that you go to one of the forums, such as KLRForum, and start a thread. It's the old 'two heads are better than one' sort of thing.
I can tell you what I'd probably do if it were my bike. I would pull the side cover back off, remove the rotor, and make sure that the two thick washers are behind the starter clutch, that there is one thin large diameter washer between the starter clutch hub and the rotor, that the key is not damaged, and that the washer behind the eccentric is still there, and that the four thrust washers for the starter gears are in place, and make sure the torsion spring didn't pop off and that its coils were properly stuffed onto the lever.
That's pretty much all that you could have disturbed when doing the work and those are the common issues.
Taking you at your word that all the washers are correct, what I would suggest as a possibility is that the torsion spring is not properly stuffed onto the lever or has pooped loose.
The early aftermarket levers often had a bit of an interference with the starter clutch ring gear and that is the reason that the lever is relieved. If the spring is not stuffed onto the spring and captured int eh groove, then it could be rubbing on the ring gear. If it has become disconnected it could do the same.
Unfortunately, the rotor has to come off in any case.
Very helpful! Thank you
When you installed the doohicky you snugged down the bolt while pushing the doohicky to the left for the spring to hook to it easier. Then you pushed the spring in towards the engine to snug it in. Are'nt you suppose to loosen the bolt a little to allow the doohicky to move with the spring tension ? If the doohicky is snugged down then what is the purpose of the spring ?
T-Bone,
The spring pulls the lever to the left. After I have pushed the lever to the left in order to take up all the slack in the system and make it easier to install the spring, there's no real point in loosening the bolt after the spring is installed. At that point in time, all the slack is taken up.
In a few thousand miles, say at the next oil change, then the engine should be set to top dead center, the bolt loosened, the case rapped with a soft mallet, and the spring will do its job to move the lever to the left and take up the slack. This is a periodic adjustment that needs to be done. And, of course, the lever should never be allowed to run loose without the bolt tightened.
Tom
@@souperdoo thank you sir
@@souperdoo I was wondering if you could help me with the proper routing of fuel lines and vaccum hoses from the carburetor to petcock and vents ? 2008 gen 2. I've checked all kinds of diagrams and forums but I'm still a little confused as to what goes where. Mainly the two plastic 90° top and bottom on left side of carb and the brass fitting top right on carb. Sir you seem to be the guru of all that is KLR so I subscribed to your channel for your wealth of wisdom ! Thanks in advance.
@@t-bone9403
Happy to do that!
The Gen 2 has a brass fitting with two barbs on it. One is for the Air Injection System, and the other is for the vacuum-operated petcock.
If you have removed the AIS, then block off its barb. If you have replaced the OEM petcock with a manual petcock, block off its barb. I like to use a properly sized plastic screw protector. They come in various sizes and are made from a very flexible plastic that doesn’t degrade as a neoprene one will. You can find them at places like ACE hardware.
If you have both the AIS and the OEM petcock, they need to have vacuum hoses running to the fitting in order to function and it doesn’t matter which barb they are connected to.
On the carb, the gray elbow at the top is the carb vent. It must be open or the carb won’t work. Its hose should be routed to a place where it can both breathe and won’t get water in it. Many folks will put a T fitting in the line and run one leg up the backbone of the frame toward the front of the frame and the other hose down along the subframe under the seat.
The routing of the lines is fairly simple, just make them as direct as possible and avoid routing next to the exhaust pipe for the AIS and for the carb vent. If you never go near a water crossing then the carb vent doesn't really need to have a hose at all.
Use a 1/8" (3mm) vacuum hose for the connection to the back of the OEM petcock and to the AIS. It is smaller in outside diameter and more flexible than a braided line. It is easier to route.
The lower elbow is the fuel inlet. The hose goes from the petcock's outlet straight into the black elbow. Use Tygon line, as it is clear (yellow), very flexible, easy to work with, and remains flexible.
Both of these elbows have O-rings on them which seal them to the carb body. If you take the fittings off it is a good idea to refresh the O-rings.
Tom
@@souperdoo thank you again sir !
I had a gen two KLR ,and now the gen three. The gen 3 manual says nothing about the doohicky. I herd somewere Kaw upgraded it for 2023. My question is the instructions the same torque, procedures etc as the 2022 ?
There has been no change to the balancer adjuster design for 2023. No design change, no upgrade to parts. The adjustment procedure is the same as it has been since the first KLR650.
Thank you!
What year bike is this being done on? I will be replacing both gaskets on my 91 due to an oil leak. GREAT VIDEO!
Sorry to be so long responding, out riding the past week. The bike is a 2009 but the procedure is the same for all years.
I recently acquired a non running KLR. In the course of trying to trouble shoot, I discovered rotating the crank assembly seemed to turn the starter motor(as noted by a gear winding sound, and significant drag) I'm trying to determine if there is a free wheeling gear on the big sprocket in front of the flywheel. If so, does mine sound faulty? Thank you....
The big ring gear on the back of the rotor (flywheel) has a one-way clutch interface with the rotor. If you hand-turn the engine counter clockwise that gear should not drive the starter gears. If it does, something is wrong.
If you turn the engine clockwise you run the risk of jumping timing on the cams. Turning it clockwise would probably engage the clutch and drive the starter gears backwards.
souperdoo I was coming to terms with an unexpected level of complication in order to set the machine back in good order. Thanks for the insight and yes your videos are very helpful and much appreciated.
Best regards!
All's well that ends well!
Fabulous !! I noticed that you have an extended idle mixture screw. What brand do you like?
This is the one I use and I have no problems with it. There was no real reason to prefer this one over any other. It is simply the one that was most available/first found when I wanted one.
cv-performance.com/harley_mixture_screw_tuning
Tom
Do the '16 and '17 models need this also?
Well, yes and no. The spring is typically too long and runs out of adjustment very quickly. That needs replacing. As long as you are in that far and have that much invested in the effort, it is foolish not to put a new lever in with the torsion spring. The spring has been reported to run out of tension within the first 5K miles. Some last longer, some don't.
The lever itself, on the Gen 2 bikes (post '08), was redesigned and doesn't break, but only replacing the spring make no sense.
More than you wanted to know:
th-cam.com/video/xt7a87B2eqU/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/WAryJKr72KM/w-d-xo.html
www.souperdoo.com/stuff%20that%20i%20think%20about/doohickey
Tom