Best doo video out there. Mike brings up all the details that so many other videos miss. For instance, centerpunching the key (9:15) is a great tip, and even better, rotating the starter gear while reinstalling the flywheel (11:30) is the difference between getting frustrated and it easily dropping into place in 2 seconds. Mechanical work like this is often made easy with good technique and attention to detail, so make your doo swap easier by watching this video series.
I agree with MrThermoBob’s comment below. Mike does a great job of including the necessary details that many how-to videos leave out. As a teacher, I have learned over the years, just how much the details matter when explaining complex subject matter. For the layperson, the details are many times the difference between doing the job right the first time and having to do it over again. Thank you, Mike! Appreciate you taking the time and putting extra care and consideration into your work.
you probably dont care at all but does anyone know a tool to get back into an instagram account..? I stupidly forgot the account password. I love any assistance you can give me!
@Briar Bodie I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process now. Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
Thanks Eagle Mike for the video and doohickey kit. I was able to do my new to me 2012 with 8800 miles. It had a strange surge to it when easing around at low speeds and you could also feel it in higher gears and higher speeds. Sure enough my stock doohickey spring was loose and not tensioning anything. Nothing broke yet. She is nice and smooth now with the new doohickey and spring.
Thanks for taking the time to make this great video! The way you took time to explain everything. Just great!!! Obviously you are a great expert on the subject. Your parts went on just like in the video, piece of cake!!! All your parts are superbly made, also have your fork brace.! Also you mentioned your phone number is in the instructions, and I can testify that yes you do answer the phone!
I have worked on engines for over 50 years. Mike has even more wrench time than I have especially with the thousand KLRs he has worked on.. He clearly knows all there is to know about these engines. So here is my only problem with this video. NO IMPACT DRIVERS at assembly time. DON"T DO IT! DON"T DO IT! DON"T DO IT! DON"T DO IT! Yes I know he showed that he turned down the torque selection to the lowest setting. If you are a PRO like he is fine but if you are not JUST DON"T DO IT. I can't count the times I have had to repair threads because people with little experience on aluminum cases wrecked things. Start bolts by hand only, Use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet (not a 3/8 1/2 or 1 inch), or a T handle to spin them down then USE A TORQUE WRENCH. They are not lug nuts on a dump truck. If you ignore this issue and destroy threads in a case, do the world a favor and fix them or have someone else fix them.. Don't sell a bike with thread damage to someone else without being honest about damage. Eagle Mike after thousands of hours of working on KLRs has developed a delicate feel for bolts going into soft aluminum cases. He is a PRO, 90 percent of those who will do this are not. So please follow this simple rules on assembly, NO IMPACT WRENCHES, air or electric. Do not cross thread bolts. Do not drive in a bolt until it starts to thread in place just with your fingers. If you damage threads REPAIR THEM! Mike clearly skipped over this because of his experience and was also concentrating just on the content of the mechanics of the gears, chain and doohickey.. The content is outstanding. Just remember he is PRO most are not. To Mike directly, thank you for designing this new part and keeping our bikes on the road for years and years.
Hi! You caught my full attention when you mentioned the McMaster Carr or CDI torque wrenches, as economical generic versions for Snap On tools. I visited the McMaster site and I am confused by so many offerings. What model do you recommend? What range of values? I'd like to use one of these for my KTM Duke and my mountain bicycle. Help.
I just installed your kit on my 06 KLR and sure as heck the factory spring was broken. My bike only has 14,400km on it so not very many miles. What a difference now that it’s fixed. It runs so much smoother now. Now I’m just trying to get my jetting issue figured out. Bogging and dieseling when rolling on the throttle hard around 3000rpm. Did the DJ needle at the 3rd notch and 3.5 turns out on the pilot screw. It seemed to cause it to bog at around 2700-2800rpm. Then I checked the exhaust flange bolts and they were loose. Tightened them up and that improved the bogging considerably. I’m going to play around a bit more and then order your klx kit with the 042 jet. Thanks for an awesome product!
Hi Mike. I have seen another school of thought regarding the doohickey - that excessive looseness in the spring is also evidence of a stretched camchain. Therefore installing the doohickey replacement is likely to conceal that problem - ie its papering over a more serious issue. I remember when my GPz900R tensioner lost tension the correct fix was camchain replacement, a relatively trivial job I did in an afternoon because of the side mounted camchain on that bike.
You are mistaken. There's a spec for the chain in the service for the gen1. The wear is primarily on the left front weight. I've seen chains rubbing on the case, with the chain measuring within specification for a new chain. I replaced the weight and the other sprockets, and the rotation angle of the doo was back as new, with the chain no longer rubbing on the case. . BTW - it's not the cam chain, it's the balancer chain. I'll be doing a new video soon showing a lot of detail and history of the parts in the balancer system for this engine.
That theory isn't correct. First of all, it's a balancer chain. Second, I've measured chains (there is a specification), so I know when they are stretched or worn, and when they are not. The primary wear points are the rubber/plastic coatings on the sprockets where the chain side plates ride. I also know that the wear points actually wear less when the system is properly tensioned. I'll be doing a video about the balancer system, it's parts and design in the near future. Lastly, there is no need to post this more than once. This is my second reply to your theory. I hear of a new theory every so often, but it's always someone that hasn't been into a significant number of engines and actually measured the parts.
Several things I don't understand. First, the doohickey is secured to the case with its bolt. So is this a routine maintenance item, where at whatever interval that bolt is loosened so that the doohickey can then rotate and take out the chain slack? Then the bolt is retightened? If yes, what is the adjustment interval for this? Secondly, with the doohickey bolt loose, do you not want to rotate the engine a couple times so that all the slack in the balancer chain is taken out by the torsion spring? Or does simply loosening the bolt suffice?
There is some info about this on the paper in the package with the parts. The adjustment interval is about every 7500 miles, or every 3rd oil change. The torsion spring will remove the slack. If you want to do it in the optimum condition do it with the engine at TDC. You don't need to rotate the engine. The adjustment bolt MUST always be properly tightened while the engine is running. I'll be doing another video soon that explains some of the conditions that affect the system, and why the factory parts don't work as well as they should.
I'm sure someone asked this and I'm sorry if I didn't go through all the comments but, isnt it the same if you just hand tighten the doohickey making sure the chain is tight enough and just torque the nut on the doohickey rather than just using a spring. It seems that the spring is just there as a afterthought it does't tighten anything once you torque the doohickey bolt..? Am I wrong on this?
Spring isn't an after thought. If you want to leave the spring out, you can remove the left side case and the other parts, then manually adjust the system after wear occurs. Normal way is adjust the system every 7500 miles or so.
Problem at 3:30: the entire time he was showing where to put the hole, he was blocking the shot by wiping it clean, and then pulled away and started assembling. I tried to put my hole at like 4 o'clock or slightly later, and I think the spring is too tight. I can't get it in without it popping out!
If you bought the parts direct from me, look for the email with the pdf attached. It has a couple of good pics. If you didn't buy from me, and bought some other place, my phone number is available in the package, if it's my parts. There is a difference in the castings between 2009/earlier, and the 2010 later casting. I can put another video up just showing the holes location and attaching the spring. Be sure to watch the video already up on how the spring should be attached. Standard caution note - the work needs to be done by a skilled mechanic, and should not be attempted by a beginner. If one is not experienced, gaining experience comes at a cost. If things don't seem to be going well, always ask for help. Good luck!
@@eaglemikeeaglemike6774 I'm not a mechanic but I've been a wrencher for 30+ years, don't typically let mechanics touch my cars/bikes. I did get it in there, had to smoosh the top of the spring back behind the doohickey and it seems to be really "sprung tight", but it seems to be there. I'm afraid it'll pop out with all that tension on it though. Also, you're a beast for answering a TH-cam comment at 1am! Lolol.
Hi Mike, I’ve got a KLR I did the Doo (had done at decent shop) about 35k km back. The other day while bouncing down a trail my bike suddenly started running differently, sounded like my low fender was rubbing my tire or something. Vibrations went WAAAY up. It’s idling ok but the “crack/bark” it had when blipping the throttle is not there. I’m going to do investigations starting with oil filter and magnetic drain plug. I just wondered if a door hickey spring failure might have similar symptoms. I’ve heard of the starter gear snagging/rubbing the spring on rare occasions. You mention running with the doo loose causing a bunch of other damage.... I had to get home about 40km from the initial start of the trouble. Any tips on where to start my detective work after the oil filter/drain look? Thanks Sir! Stu
Also the shop said he didn’t see a deep hole, but Wattman said my serial # was one that should have a deep hole. Could this be a contributing factor to a failure????
Deep hole shouldn't cause that. If/when you remove the left side outer case, it's easy to put the spacer in there for the deep hole. If you end up ordering anything from my site, leave a note on the order and I'll throw the spacer in the box with the parts. If the doo clamping bolt is loose while the engine is running, it's pretty likely the spring will break. That can also cause a lot of wear on the balancer chain and sprockets. Wish you were close and I could help you trouble shoot. Get a mechanic's stethoscope and probe around the engine while it's running, see if you can tell where the noise is coming from. Take a good look at the filter and see if there is any metal in it. Look for stuff on the drain plug too, of course. Good luck!
OK - I watched both and at the end you loosened up the Doohickey Bolt so that it "rattles", but you never tightened it back up. That means that you want it loose? Won't it rattle it's way out till it hits the case? Should it not be tight - and if yes - what torque?
Thx for the great vids on this. A bit confused on the bolt that goes through the doohickey though. Do you just tighten it down as much as you can while still allowing the doohickey to rotate and the spring to keep tension on it?
The bolt should be tightened to 70 inch lbs. Emphasis on inch, a few have used ft lbs, which always results in a broken bolt. The bolt should be loosened to allow the system to adjust about every 7500 miles, while the engine is off, then torque it up before starting. It must be tightened while the engine is running.
@@eaglemikeeaglemike6774 ah ok.......so every 7500 mile remove outer case and loosen the bolt which allows the spring to pull it to new tension and lock it back down with bolt..............thx.
@@lunarluna No, you don't have to remove the outer case. There is a black rubber plug on the outside of the case covering the head of the bolt. It's accessible just by removing the rubber plug. So just remove the plug, loosen the bolt 1/2 to 1 turn, then torque it back up, re-install the rubber plug. It's a little better to adjust when the system is at TDC, but not a requirement.
@@eaglemikeeaglemike6774 You say to torque it up before starting and then you say it must be tightened while running. Confusing. Can you clear this up? Thx
@@Tbone0163 It has to be tight while the engine is running - always! Some people think it has to be loose and move while the engine is running. This is not correct. The spring will fail if the engine is running and the adjustment bolt is loose. The adjustment is done with the engine off, and the bolt is re-torqued before starting the engine.
Hello! Im doing this too. I just wonder if I use both springs... even if bolt get loose 2 springs can hold it tight torsional and eagle normal type. I just wonder like you said if that torsional slip and the loose doohickey but then you still have eagle normal spring... the normal spring can fail too and cause problems. Im not 100% sure about that torsional but maybe end of the day I will use it only anyway. Just curious if some1 used both springs.
The torsion spring has a better tension curve, longer travel, is captured on install. The extension spring also vibrates and stretched and relaxed a tiny bit all the time the engine is running. The torsion. Spring also takes the slack out in the best way.
I wonder if that arm there is the original spring start rattling because its now like washer? Also if end of shaft there doo is getting loose and it start rotating inside doo because tension is now end of the axl not middle like original spring. Otherwise torsional is much better. Using both springs makes chain too tight? Sorry I asking these as an engineer I just wonder what can go wrong. Thx your videos and support to KLR fan boys!
@@eaglemikeeaglemike6774 no rush. I have a good idea what to do, just want to cross my T's and dot my I's so to speak 😄 Quick question, I know your kits come with a spacer for the Deep Hole issue, in your professional opinion, would a 3/8" ball bearing be any advantage vs a spacer? Thank you for the great products and work that you do 😄
Hi Mike, down here in NZ not many dealers seem to worried about the doohickey and I'm wondering if I order a kit they will not know about the torsion spring and drilling the hole. Will feel a bit weird telling them to watch your videos. Cheers Andrew
Hi Andrew, Take a look at the video from Big Rock Moto about the KR650 Doohickey. He just released it. I was interviewed about the doohickey in that video.
Hi Andrew, don't worry about the doohickey upgrade. The KLR models we get in Australia and NZ are different to what the Americans get. They have extra engine components and emissions systems, plus ride thier bikes at higher speeds, in colder climates. Have yet to seen any failed doohickeys in Australia from multiple rider KLR rallys and people all over Australia. From over 20 dealers in Australia they have yet to see one fail. From all the hype it just seems that is all it is, Americans stirring the pot. Ride the KLR the way it came, it is all good.
Not sure who needs to hear this, but for the rotor bolt on a 1984-1986 kl600, the manuals appear to call for 87 ft lbs of torque. Does anyone have any idea why they changed it despite no obvious change to the bolt? Edit: It seems that the 70 inch pounds on the case bolts holds up nicely for the 600, in case this sparked that question for any KL600 owners out there. Also, can vouch for Mike's KL-600 specific kit for my 1986 variant! My original doo/spring were intact and functional but I appreciate the peace of mind that his kits offer.
My memory is the taper on the early 600 crankshaft is different. Referring to the 1984 model. I'll have to spend more time on the parts fiche, as I haven't looked at all the affected parts for a while. I actually havthe left side outer gasket available for the 1984 600 now. They were not available for a long time, but I had a batch made.
Such a thorough explanation and demo. Thanks so much!
Best doo video out there. Mike brings up all the details that so many other videos miss. For instance, centerpunching the key (9:15) is a great tip, and even better, rotating the starter gear while reinstalling the flywheel (11:30) is the difference between getting frustrated and it easily dropping into place in 2 seconds. Mechanical work like this is often made easy with good technique and attention to detail, so make your doo swap easier by watching this video series.
I agree with MrThermoBob’s comment below. Mike does a great job of including the necessary details that many how-to videos leave out. As a teacher, I have learned over the years, just how much the details matter when explaining complex subject matter. For the layperson, the details are many times the difference between doing the job right the first time and having to do it over again. Thank you, Mike! Appreciate you taking the time and putting extra care and consideration into your work.
Thank you for taking the time to make these awesome videos
I just did this fix. Eagle Mike shows it like it is. It’s exactly as difficult/easy as he shows. I bought his full kit. Well made.
you probably dont care at all but does anyone know a tool to get back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly forgot the account password. I love any assistance you can give me!
@Larry Jaxon Instablaster :)
@Briar Bodie I really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process now.
Takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Briar Bodie It worked and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thanks so much you really help me out!
@Larry Jaxon no problem =)
Thanks Eagle Mike for the video and doohickey kit. I was able to do my new to me 2012 with 8800 miles. It had a strange surge to it when easing around at low speeds and you could also feel it in higher gears and higher speeds. Sure enough my stock doohickey spring was loose and not tensioning anything. Nothing broke yet. She is nice and smooth now with the new doohickey and spring.
Thanks for this great video, you saved me time and money. The piece of mind knowing the job is done correctly is amazing.
Thanks Mike. Great video, outstanding product,excellent service. Take care good sir
Thanks for taking the time to make this great video! The way you took time to explain everything. Just great!!! Obviously you are a great expert on the subject. Your parts went on just like in the video, piece of cake!!! All your parts are superbly made, also have your fork brace.! Also you mentioned your phone number is in the instructions, and I can testify that yes you do answer the phone!
Awesome Mike. Just ordered your parts and appreciate your guidance. The best of health. God bless.
I have worked on engines for over 50 years. Mike has even more wrench time than I have especially with the thousand KLRs he has worked on.. He clearly knows all there is to know about these engines.
So here is my only problem with this video.
NO IMPACT DRIVERS at assembly time.
DON"T DO IT!
DON"T DO IT!
DON"T DO IT!
DON"T DO IT!
Yes I know he showed that he turned down the torque selection to the lowest setting. If you are a PRO like he is fine but if you are not JUST DON"T DO IT.
I can't count the times I have had to repair threads because people with little experience on aluminum cases wrecked things. Start bolts by hand only, Use a 1/4 inch drive ratchet (not a 3/8 1/2 or 1 inch), or a T handle to spin them down then USE A TORQUE WRENCH. They are not lug nuts on a dump truck.
If you ignore this issue and destroy threads in a case, do the world a favor and fix them or have someone else fix them.. Don't sell a bike with thread damage to someone else without being honest about damage.
Eagle Mike after thousands of hours of working on KLRs has developed a delicate feel for bolts going into soft aluminum cases. He is a PRO, 90 percent of those who will do this are not.
So please follow this simple rules on assembly, NO IMPACT WRENCHES, air or electric. Do not cross thread bolts. Do not drive in a bolt until it starts to thread in place just with your fingers.
If you damage threads REPAIR THEM!
Mike clearly skipped over this because of his experience and was also concentrating just on the content of the mechanics of the gears, chain and doohickey.. The content is outstanding. Just remember he is PRO most are not.
To Mike directly, thank you for designing this new part and keeping our bikes on the road for years and years.
Hi! You caught my full attention when you mentioned the McMaster Carr or CDI torque wrenches, as economical generic versions for Snap On tools. I visited the McMaster site and I am confused by so many offerings. What model do you recommend? What range of values? I'd like to use one of these for my KTM Duke and my mountain bicycle. Help.
I just installed your kit on my 06 KLR and sure as heck the factory spring was broken. My bike only has 14,400km on it so not very many miles. What a difference now that it’s fixed. It runs so much smoother now. Now I’m just trying to get my jetting issue figured out. Bogging and dieseling when rolling on the throttle hard around 3000rpm. Did the DJ needle at the 3rd notch and 3.5 turns out on the pilot screw. It seemed to cause it to bog at around 2700-2800rpm. Then I checked the exhaust flange bolts and they were loose. Tightened them up and that improved the bogging considerably. I’m going to play around a bit more and then order your klx kit with the 042 jet. Thanks for an awesome product!
Hi Mike. I have seen another school of thought regarding the doohickey - that excessive looseness in the spring is also evidence of a stretched camchain. Therefore installing the doohickey replacement is likely to conceal that problem - ie its papering over a more serious issue. I remember when my GPz900R tensioner lost tension the correct fix was camchain replacement, a relatively trivial job I did in an afternoon because of the side mounted camchain on that bike.
You are mistaken. There's a spec for the chain in the service for the gen1. The wear is primarily on the left front weight. I've seen chains rubbing on the case, with the chain measuring within specification for a new chain. I replaced the weight and the other sprockets, and the rotation angle of the doo was back as new, with the chain no longer rubbing on the case. . BTW - it's not the cam chain, it's the balancer chain. I'll be doing a new video soon showing a lot of detail and history of the parts in the balancer system for this engine.
That theory isn't correct. First of all, it's a balancer chain. Second, I've measured chains (there is a specification), so I know when they are stretched or worn, and when they are not. The primary wear points are the rubber/plastic coatings on the sprockets where the chain side plates ride. I also know that the wear points actually wear less when the system is properly tensioned. I'll be doing a video about the balancer system, it's parts and design in the near future. Lastly, there is no need to post this more than once. This is my second reply to your theory. I hear of a new theory every so often, but it's always someone that hasn't been into a significant number of engines and actually measured the parts.
I installed my doo tonight! Thanks
Wow!! 135 ft lbs is insane. Happy I borrowed a torque wrench because there's absolutely no way I would've tightened it that much otherwise.
Can’t get my rubber plug to go in the hole……any advice please?
Excellent video.
Several things I don't understand.
First, the doohickey is secured to the case with its bolt. So is this a routine maintenance item, where at whatever interval that bolt is loosened so that the doohickey can then rotate and take out the chain slack? Then the bolt is retightened? If yes, what is the adjustment interval for this?
Secondly, with the doohickey bolt loose, do you not want to rotate the engine a couple times so that all the slack in the balancer chain is taken out by the torsion spring? Or does simply loosening the bolt suffice?
There is some info about this on the paper in the package with the parts. The adjustment interval is about every 7500 miles, or every 3rd oil change. The torsion spring will remove the slack. If you want to do it in the optimum condition do it with the engine at TDC. You don't need to rotate the engine. The adjustment bolt MUST always be properly tightened while the engine is running. I'll be doing another video soon that explains some of the conditions that affect the system, and why the factory parts don't work as well as they should.
@@eaglemikeeaglemike6774 Thanks for the info Mike!
I'm sure someone asked this and I'm sorry if I didn't go through all the comments but, isnt it the same if you just hand tighten the doohickey making sure the chain is tight enough and just torque the nut on the doohickey rather than just using a spring. It seems that the spring is just there as a afterthought it does't tighten anything once you torque the doohickey bolt..? Am I wrong on this?
Spring isn't an after thought. If you want to leave the spring out, you can remove the left side case and the other parts, then manually adjust the system after wear occurs.
Normal way is adjust the system every 7500 miles or so.
Problem at 3:30: the entire time he was showing where to put the hole, he was blocking the shot by wiping it clean, and then pulled away and started assembling. I tried to put my hole at like 4 o'clock or slightly later, and I think the spring is too tight. I can't get it in without it popping out!
If you bought the parts direct from me, look for the email with the pdf attached. It has a couple of good pics. If you didn't buy from me, and bought some other place, my phone number is available in the package, if it's my parts. There is a difference in the castings between 2009/earlier, and the 2010 later casting.
I can put another video up just showing the holes location and attaching the spring. Be sure to watch the video already up on how the spring should be attached.
Standard caution note - the work needs to be done by a skilled mechanic, and should not be attempted by a beginner. If one is not experienced, gaining experience comes at a cost. If things don't seem to be going well, always ask for help. Good luck!
@@eaglemikeeaglemike6774 I'm not a mechanic but I've been a wrencher for 30+ years, don't typically let mechanics touch my cars/bikes. I did get it in there, had to smoosh the top of the spring back behind the doohickey and it seems to be really "sprung tight", but it seems to be there. I'm afraid it'll pop out with all that tension on it though.
Also, you're a beast for answering a TH-cam comment at 1am! Lolol.
Good information
Hi Mike,
I’ve got a KLR I did the Doo (had done at decent shop) about 35k km back.
The other day while bouncing down a trail my bike suddenly started running differently, sounded like my low fender was rubbing my tire or something.
Vibrations went WAAAY up.
It’s idling ok but the “crack/bark” it had when blipping the throttle is not there.
I’m going to do investigations starting with oil filter and magnetic drain plug.
I just wondered if a door hickey spring failure might have similar symptoms.
I’ve heard of the starter gear snagging/rubbing the spring on rare occasions.
You mention running with the doo loose causing a bunch of other damage....
I had to get home about 40km from the initial start of the trouble.
Any tips on where to start my detective work after the oil filter/drain look?
Thanks Sir!
Stu
Also the shop said he didn’t see a deep hole, but Wattman said my serial # was one that should have a deep hole.
Could this be a contributing factor to a failure????
Deep hole shouldn't cause that. If/when you remove the left side outer case, it's easy to put the spacer in there for the deep hole. If you end up ordering anything from my site, leave a note on the order and I'll throw the spacer in the box with the parts.
If the doo clamping bolt is loose while the engine is running, it's pretty likely the spring will break. That can also cause a lot of wear on the balancer chain and sprockets.
Wish you were close and I could help you trouble shoot. Get a mechanic's stethoscope and probe around the engine while it's running, see if you can tell where the noise is coming from.
Take a good look at the filter and see if there is any metal in it. Look for stuff on the drain plug too, of course.
Good luck!
OK - I watched both and at the end you loosened up the Doohickey Bolt so that it "rattles", but you never tightened it back up.
That means that you want it loose? Won't it rattle it's way out till it hits the case? Should it not be tight - and if yes - what torque?
I tightened it up when I tightened the outer case bolts. It must be tight while engine is running.
@@eaglemikeeaglemike6774
Thanks - I really missed that part
Thx for the great vids on this. A bit confused on the bolt that goes through the doohickey though. Do you just tighten it down as much as you can while still allowing the doohickey to rotate and the spring to keep tension on it?
The bolt should be tightened to 70 inch lbs. Emphasis on inch, a few have used ft lbs, which always results in a broken bolt. The bolt should be loosened to allow the system to adjust about every 7500 miles, while the engine is off, then torque it up before starting. It must be tightened while the engine is running.
@@eaglemikeeaglemike6774 ah ok.......so every 7500 mile remove outer case and loosen the bolt which allows the spring to pull it to new tension and lock it back down with bolt..............thx.
@@lunarluna No, you don't have to remove the outer case. There is a black rubber plug on the outside of the case covering the head of the bolt. It's accessible just by removing the rubber plug. So just remove the plug, loosen the bolt 1/2 to 1 turn, then torque it back up, re-install the rubber plug. It's a little better to adjust when the system is at TDC, but not a requirement.
@@eaglemikeeaglemike6774 You say to torque it up before starting and then you say it must be tightened while running. Confusing. Can you clear this up? Thx
@@Tbone0163 It has to be tight while the engine is running - always! Some people think it has to be loose and move while the engine is running. This is not correct. The spring will fail if the engine is running and the adjustment bolt is loose. The adjustment is done with the engine off, and the bolt is re-torqued before starting the engine.
Hello! Im doing this too. I just wonder if I use both springs... even if bolt get loose 2 springs can hold it tight torsional and eagle normal type. I just wonder like you said if that torsional slip and the loose doohickey but then you still have eagle normal spring... the normal spring can fail too and cause problems. Im not 100% sure about that torsional but maybe end of the day I will use it only anyway.
Just curious if some1 used both springs.
Only use the torsion spring
The torsion spring has a better tension curve, longer travel, is captured on install. The extension spring also vibrates and stretched and relaxed a tiny bit all the time the engine is running. The torsion. Spring also takes the slack out in the best way.
Ok so just leave eagle normal spring off and only use torsional spring?
@@Veksi8
Yes, leave the extension spring off.
I wonder if that arm there is the original spring start rattling because its now like washer? Also if end of shaft there doo is getting loose and it start rotating inside doo because tension is now end of the axl not middle like original spring. Otherwise torsional is much better.
Using both springs makes chain too tight?
Sorry I asking these as an engineer I just wonder what can go wrong. Thx your videos and support to KLR fan boys!
Where is your shop located what state
Do you have a video on the Deep Hole fix? I have an 08 model
It's pretty easy and straight forward, but I'll make one in the next couple of days, ok?
@@eaglemikeeaglemike6774 no rush. I have a good idea what to do, just want to cross my T's and dot my I's so to speak 😄 Quick question, I know your kits come with a spacer for the Deep Hole issue, in your professional opinion, would a 3/8" ball bearing be any advantage vs a spacer? Thank you for the great products and work that you do 😄
Hi Mike, down here in NZ not many dealers seem to worried about the doohickey and I'm wondering if I order a kit they will not know about the torsion spring and drilling the hole. Will feel a bit weird telling them to watch your videos. Cheers Andrew
Hi Andrew,
Take a look at the video from Big Rock Moto about the KR650 Doohickey. He just released it. I was interviewed about the doohickey in that video.
Hi Andrew, don't worry about the doohickey upgrade. The KLR models we get in Australia and NZ are different to what the Americans get. They have extra engine components and emissions systems, plus ride thier bikes at higher speeds, in colder climates. Have yet to seen any failed doohickeys in Australia from multiple rider KLR rallys and people all over Australia. From over 20 dealers in Australia they have yet to see one fail. From all the hype it just seems that is all it is, Americans stirring the pot. Ride the KLR the way it came, it is all good.
I didn't get a bit in my kit
He’s a good guy Bosch so send him a check anyway. :0
Not sure who needs to hear this, but for the rotor bolt on a 1984-1986 kl600, the manuals appear to call for 87 ft lbs of torque.
Does anyone have any idea why they changed it despite no obvious change to the bolt?
Edit: It seems that the 70 inch pounds on the case bolts holds up nicely for the 600, in case this sparked that question for any KL600 owners out there.
Also, can vouch for Mike's KL-600 specific kit for my 1986 variant! My original doo/spring were intact and functional but I appreciate the peace of mind that his kits offer.
My memory is the taper on the early 600 crankshaft is different. Referring to the 1984 model. I'll have to spend more time on the parts fiche, as I haven't looked at all the affected parts for a while.
I actually havthe left side outer gasket available for the 1984 600 now. They were not available for a long time, but I had a batch made.
Wh