So refreshing, right?! Lol. Fathers and Sons (Turgenev), always the same general dynamics at play, yet every pair is so uniquely their own. Kudos to ya both, to healthy fathers’ and sons’ out there. (Air cheers a Coke to your Pepsi, lol)
A friend of mine has a similar set up it has been running for over 2 decades .He went to clean it and found gold only a little but was a very cool find
Not sure what the delay is between the video and how far along the project is, but it might be worth your time and health (to avoid having to trudge up that hill a lot), when you run the water pipe, also run a conduit or 2 for a data cable and low voltage wiring so you can put a camera or two up there and monitor the spring and the pipe run remotely. If there is a problem in the middle of say an icy winter...at night seeing up there without having too travel up. As for filtration, maybe use a sort of reverse use drywell...dig a hole up there, insert a drywell (surrounded by filtration fabric and full of stone and put the collection end of the pipe inside it.
The only problem with the conduit is the length. I would need 800 feet of conduit which means 800 feet of wire. A camera would be very cool but a more useful device would be a water level sensor so I could throttle the nozzle(s) accurately. The second half of the video was recorded Feb 7 2019.
@@JoeMalovich True thats a lot of conduit, though depending upon expense you could use basically garden hose and run out door rated cat 6a in it. The conduit or hose is just to protect against shifting rocks. Its just for sensors and a camera line.
Wifi/cellular cam? Old cell phone. An environmental housing could be made easily. First person drone racing uses cool cams. Power, solar? 12V battery? I don't know, just thinking outloud.
Pyramyd Seven 800 feet is well over the 300 foot limit of any copper based data cable. Would need to run fiber at that length, and likely use power generated by the hydro to run the equipment. Not sure it’s worth the time, effort, or cost.
Have you ever heard of a ram pump? It uses a series of gate valves along side a water hammer to amplify pressure from flowing water. I'd be interested in seeing the pricipal tested in a hydro turbine application. I haven't tested the ram pump personally, but there are more than a few youtubers that claim validity to effectiveness, Mr Teslonian comes to mind as an example.
The pipe running down the hill is quite thin meaning there is a lot of resistance to flow, at the end although there might be pressure there is not a lot of flow meaning that there isn’t a lot of power there, I’d advise much thicker pipe (I get it costs a lot) but that’s needed for more power, without any nozzles I’d expect the tank up hill to be fully empty and pipe sucking air
If you had the feed pipe to the turbine starting at 3" the same as the black 3" entry to the bucket than reduced to 2" & than 1" & finishing with the dia you need for the turbine you will greatly improve & increase the pressure at the head
Your inlet will work much better (less energy loss and less turbulence) if you make it tangent to the outer edge of your barrel. Fast laminar flow around the circumference will provide the most effective silt separation.
So your going through two other properties for the spring I'm guessing there's a agreement ik you have one with the horse owners but what about the others
Problem is that your spring is at the top of the mountain, or very close, so in the middle of summer your going to get less flow than what you are going to get in the spring and fall time. Also do a double 45 set up in the barrel with the second one laying up against the barrel side wall.
I don't think silt filtration is that difficult. Your release pipe should be at the very bottom, the inlet pipe above it and your outlet pipe up at the top. If needed create a baffle above the inlet that prevents water disturbance and silt to rise to the top outlet. The dirt stays low, not different from a septic tank. I also do this with my well water with high iron content and a 5000 gallon tank, the house water comes from near the top of the tank.
Not sure that bucket filter will work for longer. Why not using a normal water filter system with stones and gravel of different sizes? Just fill the spring with it.
My first though was why not create a sort of inverse cone at the bottom. Vortexes are great, but also gravity? Something slight, like the angle on miners pan, but down to a center point.
I would move the water outflow in the lid at the top, center. And start the vortex in the middle height with a flattened pipe, to move the water straight alongside the wall. The slag removal would be placed best as a hole in the bottom. Maybe even make the bottom somewhat reverse cone shaped, let gravity help a bit more. I would an emergency overflow further upwards, and completely fill the filter with water, to avoid any contaminations. The slag output line don't need to constantly flow water, you can simply add a valve and flush the filter once a day, maybe at a time where you don't need that much energy. With automation you could open it once a day, if your consumption is below 80% or after two days of your consumption never dropped below 100%. 🤔 Something like this.
It occurs to me that all or almost all of your worry about silting goes away if you dig out and prepare the spring as a portable water source a la Engineer775‘s videos,
I learnt a lot from how to filter silt with vortexing the water. Cool and awesome! Use nature, to do it with a bit help. But how to get rid of or get use of less plastic in what we do? Not everyone have Roman concrete to build stuff out of. Plastic will be banned in Europe in some years from now, I think.
It's a constant to get the units to work. You can't just multiple GPM and Feet to get Watts. So the 0.18 has units of "Watts per (GPM * Feet)". it's a bit more complicated than that and I can dig up more info if you want.
May I suggest a cyclone filter system like the shop dust collectors use? any particles get shot away from the exit pipe by centrifugal force and can be cleaned out periodically... #workout An example here: www.rotorflush.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Hydrocyclone1-e1460469712306.png If you were to use a green barrel like you use for this test, insert an sheet op plastic to form a steep funnel, make a hole near the bottom for the flush out and two holes for the input (On an angle so the cyclone can form easier) and the output just on 90 degrees from the wall of the barrel. Since the speed and pressure of the water is low where the filter is (top of the hill, near the well head) you can get away with using plastic (hdpe). You could do a concrete version using the plastic as a form to make the filter more sturdy...
Joe, thanks for these videos. I have a similar situation. 2 water sources, spring at 300’ and creek at 200’, both serving my property via 1” pipes. The pipe from the spring is 4000’ long, so spendy to replace with larger pipe. I want to do micro hydro, at least for rainy months. I also have a third water source that runs a 25’ diameter overshot wheel. Search “Niagara Heights Water Wheel” in Google Earth.
Very cool waterwheel! I'd love to see more videos of your systems. 1" pipe at 4000' long will only supply you with about 140W of power with pipe friction being a huge limiting factor which you seem to know. head over to h-hydro.com and look at pipepd.xls for an excellent calculator.
Joe Malovich yes, I know about the friction etc. my best option is probably going to be batteries. Here’s a vid of the water wheel running. If I can supply 30 gal/min, I can only generate about 60watts. The single pipe supply at the top needs to be teed to spread out the water flow to the troughs. A lot splashes out. th-cam.com/video/1CbRfon4KMk/w-d-xo.html
dude the wd-40 goes on after you get them wet not before......the WaterDisplacment-40 will be washed away while you use them. Spray them when your done to displace ( wash away ) the water.
If you check out my channel of the spring tank I attempted something like this but I don't have nearly the flow you have I just have a trickle spring they helped a little bit right around where the Overflow comes out I did make sure to put in an air brake in case it started to siphon. I think the setup you have will work well if you can find tune the exact amount of outflow to the exact amount of overflow
The pipe really should enter tangentially, but I have no great way of doing that without massive holes (or welding something together which I can't do without a welder)
@@JoeMalovich Cut a section of inlet pipe at an angle to form a long taper. Press the taper against the outside of _a_ barrel and trace around it. Cut a slot in the barrel just outside the tracing, and save the cut out (it becomes your pattern). Liberally apply duct tape around the opening both inside and outside. Insert an uncut section of inlet pipe through the slot and secure in place with more duct tape. Fully cover the inlet pipe inside the barrel with duct tape. User fiberglass to form both exterior and interior fittings. Drill for a series of clamping bolts / rivets around the perimeter of the fittings. Remove fittings from form. Use the pattern to cut the slot in your field barrel install fittings with an RTV gasket.
roger brown weird how the laws of physics work differently for you. You in Australia? th-cam.com/video/H4WHsdvR4SU/w-d-xo.html reference this video, especially at 2:34 where she says “kinda neat how it forces it all to the middle”
Correct. The silt sucker should intake as close to the bottom outer edge as practical. The "clean" water should be extracted from as high in the center as practical, preferably above the inlet level. Centrifugal forces push the heaver silt particles to the outside and gravity pulls them down. The lighter "clean" water stays in the middle and rises. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyclonic_separation
![[Part 4] Kilowatt Microhydro Turbine - Silt-Sucker Prototype Modifications](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Hb0TB67cvPY/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Part 4] Kilowatt Microhydro Turbine - Silt-Sucker Prototype Modifications](/img/tr.png)
A dad cracks a dad joke within the first moments of the video. This should be good.
So refreshing, right?! Lol. Fathers and Sons (Turgenev), always the same general dynamics at play, yet every pair is so uniquely their own. Kudos to ya both, to healthy fathers’ and sons’ out there. (Air cheers a Coke to your Pepsi, lol)
- Say hi, dad !
- Hi dad!
A friend of mine has a similar set up it has been running for over 2 decades .He went to clean it and found gold only a little but was a very cool find
Not sure what the delay is between the video and how far along the project is, but it might be worth your time and health (to avoid having to trudge up that hill a lot), when you run the water pipe, also run a conduit or 2 for a data cable and low voltage wiring so you can put a camera or two up there and monitor the spring and the pipe run remotely. If there is a problem in the middle of say an icy winter...at night seeing up there without having too travel up.
As for filtration, maybe use a sort of reverse use drywell...dig a hole up there, insert a drywell (surrounded by filtration fabric and full of stone and put the collection end of the pipe inside it.
The only problem with the conduit is the length. I would need 800 feet of conduit which means 800 feet of wire. A camera would be very cool but a more useful device would be a water level sensor so I could throttle the nozzle(s) accurately. The second half of the video was recorded Feb 7 2019.
@@JoeMalovich True thats a lot of conduit, though depending upon expense you could use basically garden hose and run out door rated cat 6a in it. The conduit or hose is just to protect against shifting rocks. Its just for sensors and a camera line.
Wifi/cellular cam? Old cell phone. An environmental housing could be made easily. First person drone racing uses cool cams. Power, solar? 12V battery? I don't know, just thinking outloud.
@@thtadthtshldntbe Could use a poe injector for power. That's a long wire pull, LOL.
Pyramyd Seven 800 feet is well over the 300 foot limit of any copper based data cable. Would need to run fiber at that length, and likely use power generated by the hydro to run the equipment. Not sure it’s worth the time, effort, or cost.
Have you ever heard of a ram pump? It uses a series of gate valves along side a water hammer to amplify pressure from flowing water. I'd be interested in seeing the pricipal tested in a hydro turbine application. I haven't tested the ram pump personally, but there are more than a few youtubers that claim validity to effectiveness, Mr Teslonian comes to mind as an example.
Things worthy of note. Like big Clive eh? And I hear some of my canuckistan brother Ave come up every once in a while too.
Nice progress! Greetings from Buffalo
Yummm Anchor Bar!
The pipe running down the hill is quite thin meaning there is a lot of resistance to flow, at the end although there might be pressure there is not a lot of flow meaning that there isn’t a lot of power there, I’d advise much thicker pipe (I get it costs a lot) but that’s needed for more power, without any nozzles I’d expect the tank up hill to be fully empty and pipe sucking air
This is just a small play system with 3/4 inch pipe at the bottom of the hill. The big system will have either 1.5 or 2 inch pipe.
Keep up the good work Joe!
Use a few 22's on the 4" ABS pipe to direct the vortex. Keep posting the videos :).
If you had the feed pipe to the turbine starting at 3" the same as the black 3" entry to the bucket than reduced to 2" & than 1" & finishing with the dia you need for the turbine you will greatly improve & increase the pressure at the head
Your inlet will work much better (less energy loss and less turbulence) if you make it tangent to the outer edge of your barrel. Fast laminar flow around the circumference will provide the most effective silt separation.
Love the vortex idea
So your going through two other properties for the spring I'm guessing there's a agreement ik you have one with the horse owners but what about the others
Where does the other pipe through the dam lead to? The large clay pipe with the smaller pipe inside?
You and mrhydrohead have good channels.
Problem is that your spring is at the top of the mountain, or very close, so in the middle of summer your going to get less flow than what you are going to get in the spring and fall time.
Also do a double 45 set up in the barrel with the second one laying up against the barrel side wall.
I don't think silt filtration is that difficult. Your release pipe should be at the very bottom, the inlet pipe above it and your outlet pipe up at the top. If needed create a baffle above the inlet that prevents water disturbance and silt to rise to the top outlet. The dirt stays low, not different from a septic tank. I also do this with my well water with high iron content and a 5000 gallon tank, the house water comes from near the top of the tank.
Nice video mate
Not sure that bucket filter will work for longer. Why not using a normal water filter system with stones and gravel of different sizes? Just fill the spring with it.
What kind of nozzle do you,have on the end of that pipe? Forgive my ignorance, I'm new to this sort of thing.
My first though was why not create a sort of inverse cone at the bottom. Vortexes are great, but also gravity? Something slight, like the angle on miners pan, but down to a center point.
I would move the water outflow in the lid at the top, center. And start the vortex in the middle height with a flattened pipe, to move the water straight alongside the wall.
The slag removal would be placed best as a hole in the bottom. Maybe even make the bottom somewhat reverse cone shaped, let gravity help a bit more.
I would an emergency overflow further upwards, and completely fill the filter with water, to avoid any contaminations.
The slag output line don't need to constantly flow water, you can simply add a valve and flush the filter once a day, maybe at a time where you don't need that much energy. With automation you could open it once a day, if your consumption is below 80% or after two days of your consumption never dropped below 100%. 🤔 Something like this.
It occurs to me that all or almost all of your worry about silting goes away if you dig out and prepare the spring as a portable water source a la Engineer775‘s videos,
I learnt a lot from how to filter silt with vortexing the water. Cool and awesome! Use nature, to do it with a bit help. But how to get rid of or get use of less plastic in what we do? Not everyone have Roman concrete to build stuff out of. Plastic will be banned in Europe in some years from now, I think.
Hopefully it works. The sucker froze up overnight because I had it too low and it sagged against the bottom of the barrel.
Lmao the music you used @ 15:57 is the default ringtone on my phone
That was my ringtone. My phone was ringing. I got a new phone and never cared to change it.
@@JoeMalovich oh hahaha, that's hilarious,
Yeah same here,
Little old android, might as well be a flip phone, just does the job
I dont get the 460watt reading from 10 gallons a minute. Wouldn't the wattage be dependant on the head pressure and gpm?
Yes, I took gallons per minute times head height times a constant that gets all of the units inline resulting in watts.
I think I missed the math lesson in V1.0. What is the 0.18 coefficient? Drag?
It's a constant to get the units to work. You can't just multiple GPM and Feet to get Watts. So the 0.18 has units of "Watts per (GPM * Feet)". it's a bit more complicated than that and I can dig up more info if you want.
Love the ringtone (I’m 99% sure that’s what it is) around 16:00 lol
Yes, default Samsung. I never cared enough to change it.
@@JoeMalovich had me looking for my phone... I also have never cared enough to change it.
May I suggest a cyclone filter system like the shop dust collectors use? any particles get shot away from the exit pipe by centrifugal force and can be cleaned out periodically... #workout
An example here: www.rotorflush.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/04/Hydrocyclone1-e1460469712306.png
If you were to use a green barrel like you use for this test, insert an sheet op plastic to form a steep funnel, make a hole near the bottom for the flush out and two holes for the input (On an angle so the cyclone can form easier) and the output just on 90 degrees from the wall of the barrel. Since the speed and pressure of the water is low where the filter is (top of the hill, near the well head) you can get away with using plastic (hdpe). You could do a concrete version using the plastic as a form to make the filter more sturdy...
Joe, thanks for these videos. I have a similar situation. 2 water sources, spring at 300’ and creek at 200’, both serving my property via 1” pipes. The pipe from the spring is 4000’ long, so spendy to replace with larger pipe. I want to do micro hydro, at least for rainy months. I also have a third water source that runs a 25’ diameter overshot wheel. Search “Niagara Heights Water Wheel” in Google Earth.
Very cool waterwheel! I'd love to see more videos of your systems.
1" pipe at 4000' long will only supply you with about 140W of power with pipe friction being a huge limiting factor which you seem to know. head over to h-hydro.com and look at pipepd.xls for an excellent calculator.
Joe Malovich yes, I know about the friction etc. my best option is probably going to be batteries. Here’s a vid of the water wheel running. If I can supply 30 gal/min, I can only generate about 60watts. The single pipe supply at the top needs to be teed to spread out the water flow to the troughs. A lot splashes out.
th-cam.com/video/1CbRfon4KMk/w-d-xo.html
Joe Malovich this is the 200’ source. Long, just skip through the middle part.
th-cam.com/video/XZc5H2sNA-s/w-d-xo.html
Hey Joe, have you heard of flowforms? That could help creating a nice vortex thaf filters the sediment out.
I have not, very interesting.
I guess your college football career didn't go very well but you still made it
Sir you were doing 90 in a 45....
dude the wd-40 goes on after you get them wet not before......the WaterDisplacment-40 will be washed away while you use them. Spray them when your done to displace ( wash away ) the water.
If you check out my channel of the spring tank I attempted something like this but I don't have nearly the flow you have I just have a trickle spring they helped a little bit right around where the Overflow comes out I did make sure to put in an air brake in case it started to siphon. I think the setup you have will work well if you can find tune the exact amount of outflow to the exact amount of overflow
Finally!
A 45 might help create the spin.
The pipe really should enter tangentially, but I have no great way of doing that without massive holes (or welding something together which I can't do without a welder)
@@JoeMalovich Cut a section of inlet pipe at an angle to form a long taper. Press the taper against the outside of _a_ barrel and trace around it. Cut a slot in the barrel just outside the tracing, and save the cut out (it becomes your pattern). Liberally apply duct tape around the opening both inside and outside. Insert an uncut section of inlet pipe through the slot and secure in place with more duct tape. Fully cover the inlet pipe inside the barrel with duct tape. User fiberglass to form both exterior and interior fittings. Drill for a series of clamping bolts / rivets around the perimeter of the fittings. Remove fittings from form. Use the pattern to cut the slot in your field barrel install fittings with an RTV gasket.
I think if you make a vortex silt will go to the sides not the center
No
@@coreyballard8359strange in my aquponic filter wich rotates silt goes the the sides
roger brown weird how the laws of physics work differently for you. You in Australia? th-cam.com/video/H4WHsdvR4SU/w-d-xo.html reference this video, especially at 2:34 where she says “kinda neat how it forces it all to the middle”
Correct. The silt sucker should intake as close to the bottom outer edge as practical. The "clean" water should be extracted from as high in the center as practical, preferably above the inlet level. Centrifugal forces push the heaver silt particles to the outside and gravity pulls them down. The lighter "clean" water stays in the middle and rises.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cyclonic_separation
Its funny that you can create your own power from a creek that goes under powerlines.
❤️🎥
Nothing achieved again
You are your dad's clone aren't you?