I love the production value of this channel. Any other TH-camr would have edited out the part where he uses a branch as a hammer and whacks his own camera.
@@JoeMalovich and a awesome man. Around my household you're reffered to as the legend. Me: Oh the hydropower video has come out. The wife: you mean the legend?
Joe I am having a great time watching this series. Something you might consider when splicing poly pipe. Heating the pipe does make easier to slip on to the pipe barb. But the pipe never shrinks back to the original size, even though you put hose clamps on it. Something I have found that works really well is using a epoxy base glue plus the clamps. The epoxy makes a bond between the pipe and the barb. Then the hose clamp locks it on. The epoxy of choice is "Mr. Sticky" it can be found on the internet and perhaps your local hardware. Mr. Sticky can be mixed in small batches, applied to wet couplings and used under water. Also the penstock should be anchored to the ground every 10 - 20 feet. I no this is a lot of work. Being a career firefighter and understanding water flow and reaction we always anchor a static line (hose)going up hill(ladders) to prevent the weight of the line from pulling on the connection and prevent movement. A little work in the prep can save a lot of time in repairs. Usually happening at the worst of times.
Lloyd Dalton from Maine back again. Hello Joe. I had watched your videos when you were building your overshot wheel. That was quite a while ago. But I am back now and hope to watch your present project and follow what you are up to now.
This video is really interesting as an engineer. I liked to see the different end pieces you put on the pipe, and their resulting pressure drops. Very cool stuff here!
Hey man I got hooked on ur channel with the water wheel vids a while ago. It didn’t work out that well but I still enjoyed them and learned a good amount. I’m glad to see ur at it again and there are promising results from an arguably simpler system. Can’t wait for the next one!
Joe, don't ignore the pressure wave going back up the pipe when the valve is quickly closed. It presents itself as a pressure surge in your forebay and needs to be controlled. Also consider that your nozzle will at some time get plugged by debris and will have the same resulting water hammer.
Just a tip for your pressure gauge. It will give an accurate stagnant pressure but to get an accurate flow pressure it should be directly in line with the pipe. 👍
as for the connection at the bottom , i would recommend heating the pipe at the end with a small gas torch and clamp it again, love the series thanks for the video
Ohhhhhhhhhhh Cliffhanger! Exciting stuff. Gotta say I didn't think much about the inertia till I saw the guage swing when the flow began. And then when u showed the penstock movement. Guess you may want to consider anchor it and maybe add a pressure relief valve for shut off surges.
I have worked quite a bit with city water (6" - 18") and cringed each time you shut off the water quick ... water hammer is a killer to pipes - especially older pipes .... C L O S E I T S L O W L Y !!! :) Great video seeing your trials and errors :) Cheers from NZL :)
Running into the problem of water hammer. Water that is in motion wants to stay in motion and when you stop it fast by closing a valve quickly will push in that same direction for a bit. This is one of the reasons large water systems use slow valves that take many turns to open/close as it operates so slowly it gives the water time to slow and stop long before the valve is fully open/closed. In micro hydro setups this is why they will put in thrust blocks along the pipe where they encase the pipe in concrete to anchor that section to the ground.
Love the project. Thanks for the detailed description and all the footage. It’s great to see the trial and error, then corrections throughout. I gotta criticize your ABS pipe heating method. No need to boil the water on your Coleman stove. Roast that pipe like a marshmallow on that bad boy. Way cheaper. Just saying.
Really helpful Jon, appreciate it. Tri-clamps where new to me an solved a problem i have. Do you know what kind of band-clamp will provide a 100% homogeneous pressure around the hose its trying to clamp down on? Does it matter at all? A small gab forms where a traditional band-clamp with a screw comes together, does it matter much? What if the hose is very soft? Thanks
About 5 years ago I was pricing stainless steel parts for a potable 5000gal rainwater system and everything was hella expensive. Glad the prices have come down, or otherwise Ill just go shop through breweries instead of plumbing stores.
@@JoeMalovich we did a flow test on one of the two 600 mm (24") pipes into the City - we barely were turning the valve and the engineer watching the telemetry was freaking out "too fast too fast". The hammer want a long way back up the line ...
Yeah, Exactly. Got to be real slow turning things off. i panicked once when i had a leak and shut of 110mm pipe quickly and the entire pipe did a Mexican wave down hill. at your pressures you will blow the pipe very easily.
@@KrisHarbour I didn't notice it was moving because I had the pipe doing a 180 bend out into the "yard". I have materials on hand already to fix and prevent the issue. I bet you laugh at my puny 42mm penstock.
Water hammer is a longitudinal waveform, which I am very interested in. In electric terms, this translates to an impulse, that can instantly charge a capacitor
Hi Joe, For the whole 13th minute of this video I believe you may be playing in poison ivy. Leaves of three let it be. Great content! I am planning on putting a system here on my and my parents properties in the southern interior of B.C. Hoping I will manage to get some video of that.
I just had a thought I would like to share. I was watching another one of the videos in this series, 13 I believe, and you were talking about windage. And another you were talking about the negative pressure adding to the power being produced. Got me thinking if you had your turbine say half way down your drop so half the water is essentially pulling the water into the turbine. If there was somewhere for the water to pool at the bottom then flow out. Then the turbine would bin in less air resistance which I would have to imagine would be a large contributor in the loss of power on a system like this with high speeds. Would love to hear your and others thoughts on this.
Hi. Have you ever check for the water hammer effect on the pressure right in front of the main valve? If you shut the valve too abruptly too many times, you may eventually damage the coupling or the pipe may crack. Put the manometer before the valve and check the water hammer pressure spike.
YES! Quick question will you be adding more containers to off set the low end of water production (dry season). That way the electricity produced is constant.
I would add an extra Hose clamp around the area of the existing connection on the hill, not to seal pipe to a nipple, but to hold a Mooring/anchor line or heavy twine (Like Briggs & Stratton pull start rope) and then tie it off to some rebar stakes driven 2-3 ft into the ground to keep the pipe from walking and jumping - I would think a few of these lines/stakes placed in 3 or 4 spots throughout the run down the whole hill would be sufficient ?
❤️🎥. I thought you would spray the water into something larger like a barrel or something. Good pressure. You could put in a fire 🔥 hydrant. How far is the fire station?
2:15 When your electric dril does krrrrt it doesn't do anything it has it's max torque protection activated. You'll have to adjust the torque setting if you want to apply more force or torque. You can be proud at this project (and yourselves!)
Enjoying this series! Just a heads up, though - you're opening and closing your valves too fast, so there's probably a fair bit of water hammer going on in the pipes.
Failing hose clamps Joe, you probably need to go to "tight seal bolt type" clamps for firm tube and hose. Search on McMaster Carr. They never have failed me in nearly 50 years!
You could put a towel over the nozzle when testing flow rate, like roll it up, like a pipe, it will allow you to fill the bucket, and not loose so much!
I'm really impressed by that small drill of yours 6:01 I drilled a hole in a laminate board (19 mm thick) with my black&decker cordless drill and an hole saw that was 80mm in diameter. It took forever because my drill stalled all the time and I didn't even push hard at all. My drill has a torque of 35 Nm. How much does yours have?
That little drill only has 30Nm of torque and is about 10 years old, my big cordless drill is good for 123Nm. I took the little drill because it is lighter and smaller and as you saw, sufficiently capable. But it's not like plastic barrels are that hard to drill through.
I did a rough calculation. If the penstock is full there is approximately 2300 pounds of water you are getting moving then slamming on the breaks. I was wondering if the flow from the source of your spring went down after digging it out?
My calculations show the water 79 gallons (660 pounds) moving at 40mph with the FHT adapter. (.700 nozzle, 1.61" dia pipe, 760 feet). I'm really rusty on finding the energy required to stop that mass in something like 500ms but it must be pretty high. If anything digging it out would increase flow, it's just the end of the dry season here in Pennsylvania and it's been exceptionally dry.
Wouldnt two nozzles work better, with a shutoff, so a single can be used, when less water is avalible, and more energy can be put into the turbine? With multiple smaller nozzles? Like the difference between a 2stroke and 4stroke of same displacement, I'm not sure it worked that way, but looks like work over time would be greater? Mo powa!!
There is a company that makes a tool, that allows the use of safety wire as a clamp. It works great, especially on hose larger than fitting, it creates a near perfect seal. Better than clamps! I have been wanting ONE since first saw them. It has many uses, and come in two sizes, ( I think) for tiny hoses, and large hoses, work really great withwith 5/8 - 2" plus it's alot cheaper than buying clamps!!
The smallest nozzle makes me think "This time on the waterjet channel..." It's a bummer about the penstock problems, hopefully it's not too hard to rectify and it will just be a lesson learned. I know you watch Kris Harbour's videos, check out how slowly he turns off those multi-turn screw nozzles. Looking forward to seeing what happens with that 30" drop pipe too :)
10:10 those cooking things are dangerous if you put a large pot on them, and keep it at high for a long time, the gas canister can explode. thats why you cant buy them in the netherlands anymore.
That plastic water pipe is meant to use a compression Ferrell type fitting that has a clamp made on the back of the nut. Look up curb stop and water meter fittings.
25:52 let's measure the flow. Bucket overflows in seconds because of nature force. Water flow rate in gallons per minute: "Very fast" lol. Great project!
The only thing I can thing of is a large accumulator or a gate valve, neither of which would be very cost effective. I will just need to be careful about closing the valve slowly.
Joe Malovich that or a Pressure relief valve that’s adjustable kind a like they have on firetrucks to keep firefighters from blowing hydrants out of the ground
Look into float valves/switches and pressure switches so you could turn the generator on/off at either water height or pressure for an automated system
They are fine, I use the Skullcandy jib 2 earbuds from Walmart, great sound, comfy, cheap, integrated mic+button, and sometimes are capable of surviving going through the wash.
Okay this is first video l watch but surely putting so much STRAIN on that little drill is kinda stupid right ? I do realize TH-cam videos brings in money but when the focus is more on the person than the topic it really pisses me off more so when the guy seems totally not at home with what he's trying to " sell " ! Waste of my precious time.
![[Part 12] Kilowatt Microhydro Turbine - Penstock Repair](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/GB0y2iDqOgs/mqdefault.jpg)
![[Part 12] Kilowatt Microhydro Turbine - Penstock Repair](/img/tr.png)
I love the production value of this channel. Any other TH-camr would have edited out the part where he uses a branch as a hammer and whacks his own camera.
I'm a simple man.
U got a point
@@JoeMalovich and a awesome man. Around my household you're reffered to as the legend. Me: Oh the hydropower video has come out. The wife: you mean the legend?
I think most people would try to hammer it in with something within reach before descending and ascending the hill again, but it is funny.
my tripod is already broken.
Joe, I showed my wife this video, she hates it... Which means you are doing a great job!
My wife doesn't even watch my videos.
Looking forward to the completion of this! The first series was fascinating to watch.
When this started, I did not think it would be able to hold pressure so well, Awesome videos and learning experience.
Joe I am having a great time watching this series. Something you might consider when splicing poly pipe. Heating the pipe does make easier to slip on to the pipe barb. But the pipe never shrinks back to the original size, even though you put hose clamps on it. Something I have found that works really well is using a epoxy base glue plus the clamps. The epoxy makes a bond between the pipe and the barb. Then the hose clamp
locks it on. The epoxy of choice is "Mr. Sticky" it can be found on the internet and perhaps your local hardware. Mr. Sticky can be mixed in small batches, applied to wet couplings and used under water.
Also the penstock should be anchored to the ground every 10 - 20 feet. I no this is a lot of work. Being a career firefighter and understanding water flow and reaction we always anchor a static line (hose)going up hill(ladders) to prevent the weight of the line from pulling on the connection and prevent movement. A little work in the prep can save a lot of time in repairs. Usually happening at the worst of times.
Great video. Really a great way to show the calculations you did before paying off. Keep up the progress! Can't wait to see you making hydro power.
Lloyd Dalton from Maine back again. Hello Joe. I had watched your videos when you were building your overshot wheel. That was quite a while ago. But I am back now and hope to watch your present project and follow what you are up to now.
This video is really interesting as an engineer. I liked to see the different end pieces you put on the pipe, and their resulting pressure drops. Very cool stuff here!
Hey man I got hooked on ur channel with the water wheel vids a while ago. It didn’t work out that well but I still enjoyed them and learned a good amount. I’m glad to see ur at it again and there are promising results from an arguably simpler system. Can’t wait for the next one!
Joe, don't ignore the pressure wave going back up the pipe when the valve is quickly closed. It presents itself as a pressure surge in your forebay and needs to be controlled. Also consider that your nozzle will at some time get plugged by debris and will have the same resulting water hammer.
Just a tip for your pressure gauge. It will give an accurate stagnant pressure but to get an accurate flow pressure it should be directly in line with the pipe. 👍
as for the connection at the bottom , i would recommend heating the pipe at the end with a small gas torch and clamp it again, love the series thanks for the video
Ohhhhhhhhhhh Cliffhanger! Exciting stuff. Gotta say I didn't think much about the inertia till I saw the guage swing when the flow began. And then when u showed the penstock movement. Guess you may want to consider anchor it and maybe add a pressure relief valve for shut off surges.
I have worked quite a bit with city water (6" - 18") and cringed each time you shut off the water quick ... water hammer is a killer to pipes - especially older pipes .... C L O S E I T S L O W L Y !!! :) Great video seeing your trials and errors :) Cheers from NZL :)
i was legit screaming at the screen. if only he could hear us
the pipeline is so long...he should add some sort of pressure outlet valve and set it to slightly higher than 120psi
@@XiaoMingMC naw, no need to add complexity in the system. Just close it very slowly
@@sydmushas yep,but the guy who made the video seems to enjoy playing around XD
Running into the problem of water hammer. Water that is in motion wants to stay in motion and when you stop it fast by closing a valve quickly will push in that same direction for a bit. This is one of the reasons large water systems use slow valves that take many turns to open/close as it operates so slowly it gives the water time to slow and stop long before the valve is fully open/closed.
In micro hydro setups this is why they will put in thrust blocks along the pipe where they encase the pipe in concrete to anchor that section to the ground.
Love the project. Thanks for the detailed description and all the footage. It’s great to see the trial and error, then corrections throughout. I gotta criticize your ABS pipe heating method. No need to boil the water on your Coleman stove. Roast that pipe like a marshmallow on that bad boy. Way cheaper. Just saying.
Really helpful Jon, appreciate it. Tri-clamps where new to me an solved a problem i have.
Do you know what kind of band-clamp will provide a 100% homogeneous pressure around the hose its trying to clamp down on? Does it matter at all? A small gab forms where a traditional band-clamp with a screw comes together, does it matter much? What if the hose is very soft? Thanks
About 5 years ago I was pricing stainless steel parts for a potable 5000gal rainwater system and everything was hella expensive. Glad the prices have come down, or otherwise Ill just go shop through breweries instead of plumbing stores.
I saw you in the video turning that valve off too quickly i was like uh oh he’s gonna get the water hammer affect and at the end problems did arise
I was almost too excited and at the same time trying to conserve water.
@@JoeMalovich we did a flow test on one of the two 600 mm (24") pipes into the City - we barely were turning the valve and the engineer watching the telemetry was freaking out "too fast too fast". The hammer want a long way back up the line ...
Yeah, Exactly. Got to be real slow turning things off. i panicked once when i had a leak and shut of 110mm pipe quickly and the entire pipe did a Mexican wave down hill. at your pressures you will blow the pipe very easily.
@@KrisHarbour I didn't notice it was moving because I had the pipe doing a 180 bend out into the "yard". I have materials on hand already to fix and prevent the issue. I bet you laugh at my puny 42mm penstock.
Water hammer is a longitudinal waveform, which I am very interested in.
In electric terms, this translates to an impulse, that can instantly charge a capacitor
Hi Joe, For the whole 13th minute of this video I believe you may be playing in poison ivy. Leaves of three let it be. Great content! I am planning on putting a system here on my and my parents properties in the southern interior of B.C. Hoping I will manage to get some video of that.
I just had a thought I would like to share. I was watching another one of the videos in this series, 13 I believe, and you were talking about windage. And another you were talking about the negative pressure adding to the power being produced. Got me thinking if you had your turbine say half way down your drop so half the water is essentially pulling the water into the turbine. If there was somewhere for the water to pool at the bottom then flow out. Then the turbine would bin in less air resistance which I would have to imagine would be a large contributor in the loss of power on a system like this with high speeds. Would love to hear your and others thoughts on this.
Hi. Have you ever check for the water hammer effect on the pressure right in front of the main valve? If you shut the valve too abruptly too many times, you may eventually damage the coupling or the pipe may crack. Put the manometer before the valve and check the water hammer pressure spike.
I don't have a way of putting the valve after the gauge right now, and I won't be testing the pressure spike.
YES! Quick question will you be adding more containers to off set the low end of water production (dry season). That way the electricity produced is constant.
I will try to match input to output. A larger turbine will have more friction so a smaller turbine might be needed for flows under 100W
I would add an extra Hose clamp around the area of the existing connection on the hill, not to seal pipe to a nipple, but to hold a Mooring/anchor line or heavy twine (Like Briggs & Stratton pull start rope) and then tie it off to some rebar stakes driven 2-3 ft into the ground to keep the pipe from walking and jumping - I would think a few of these lines/stakes placed in 3 or 4 spots throughout the run down the whole hill would be sufficient ?
would it not have been easier to dip the end of the pipe in the pot? good series so far can't wait for it to be finished.
Water bowl too shallow and pipe too stiff.
❤️🎥. I thought you would spray the water into something larger like a barrel or something. Good pressure. You could put in a fire 🔥 hydrant. How far is the fire station?
Fire hydrant is in the front yard 200 feet away.
Suggestion for you... heat the pen-stock with a blow torch or heat gun till its pliable, then tighten the hose clamps around the end and let it cool.
My son uses a heat gun with the clamps, it shrinks just enough to make it right. He's been running an irrigation company for 25+ years.
2:15 When your electric dril does krrrrt it doesn't do anything it has it's max torque protection activated. You'll have to adjust the torque setting if you want to apply more force or torque. You can be proud at this project (and yourselves!)
Enjoying this series! Just a heads up, though - you're opening and closing your valves too fast, so there's probably a fair bit of water hammer going on in the pipes.
Failing hose clamps
Joe, you probably need to go to "tight seal bolt type" clamps for firm tube and hose. Search on McMaster Carr. They never have failed me in nearly 50 years!
the flow and pressure is amazing, cant believe gravity can have so much power. like a fire hose
That pipe fitting after the hot water was super buttery!
You could put a towel over the nozzle when testing flow rate, like roll it up, like a pipe, it will allow you to fill the bucket, and not loose so much!
Heat is your friend!! With good clamps you should have no leaks, you can put Teflon tape on it if it's really loose!
I'm really impressed by that small drill of yours 6:01 I drilled a hole in a laminate board (19 mm thick) with my black&decker cordless drill and an hole saw that was 80mm in diameter. It took forever because my drill stalled all the time and I didn't even push hard at all. My drill has a torque of 35 Nm. How much does yours have?
That little drill only has 30Nm of torque and is about 10 years old, my big cordless drill is good for 123Nm. I took the little drill because it is lighter and smaller and as you saw, sufficiently capable. But it's not like plastic barrels are that hard to drill through.
@@JoeMalovich In that case I probably should buy a new drill because mine has apparently become weak as hell.
Would you be able to divert more tiny streams to yours to get more flow?
Do you have enough spare parts to build a flow measurement tool with the bucket? Maybe put an inlet valve in the bottom and an overflow valve up top?
I did a rough calculation. If the penstock is full there is approximately 2300 pounds of water you are getting moving then slamming on the breaks. I was wondering if the flow from the source of your spring went down after digging it out?
My calculations show the water 79 gallons (660 pounds) moving at 40mph with the FHT adapter. (.700 nozzle, 1.61" dia pipe, 760 feet). I'm really rusty on finding the energy required to stop that mass in something like 500ms but it must be pretty high.
If anything digging it out would increase flow, it's just the end of the dry season here in Pennsylvania and it's been exceptionally dry.
@@JoeMalovich I got the gallons wrong by a lot. Used diameter for radius. Thanks for getting back to me.
Wouldnt two nozzles work better, with a shutoff, so a single can be used, when less water is avalible, and more energy can be put into the turbine? With multiple smaller nozzles? Like the difference between a 2stroke and 4stroke of same displacement, I'm not sure it worked that way, but looks like work over time would be greater? Mo powa!!
melt the pipe with a torch before clamping and you'll get a nice fit...
don't touch the pipe with bare skin until cooled...
Nice Fittings!!!
Good work man, keep up the good work!
There is a company that makes a tool, that allows the use of safety wire as a clamp. It works great, especially on hose larger than fitting, it creates a near perfect seal. Better than clamps! I have been wanting ONE since first saw them. It has many uses, and come in two sizes, ( I think) for tiny hoses, and large hoses, work really great withwith 5/8 - 2" plus it's alot cheaper than buying clamps!!
The smallest nozzle makes me think "This time on the waterjet channel..."
It's a bummer about the penstock problems, hopefully it's not too hard to rectify and it will just be a lesson learned. I know you watch Kris Harbour's videos, check out how slowly he turns off those multi-turn screw nozzles. Looking forward to seeing what happens with that 30" drop pipe too :)
10:10 those cooking things are dangerous if you put a large pot on them, and keep it at high for a long time, the gas canister can explode. thats why you cant buy them in the netherlands anymore.
your small pot would not be a problem i think. i still use it anyway.
Mach den schlauch mit dem Brenner heiß und zieh die schelen nach. Dann ist es Fest.
Echt ein tolles Video von dir Danke
Has anybody ever told you you look like dragon lord? For real though, I enjoy these videos very much.
Please clarify, I'm unfamiliar with whoever you speak of.
That plastic water pipe is meant to use a compression Ferrell type fitting that has a clamp made on the back of the nut. Look up curb stop and water meter fittings.
If the wood behind you catches fire, you do not need the fire department.
Nice! Love your videos man! Me and my buddy have been talking about putting a hydroelectric turbine at his place! How much did all the pipe cost?
25:52 let's measure the flow. Bucket overflows in seconds because of nature force. Water flow rate in gallons per minute: "Very fast" lol. Great project!
You might want to install something to prevent water hammer with that much water weight you might blow apart your fittings
The only thing I can thing of is a large accumulator or a gate valve, neither of which would be very cost effective. I will just need to be careful about closing the valve slowly.
@@JoeMalovich I was thinking the same . City mains have been known to blow hydrants out of the ground, closing the gate valves to quickly..
Joe Malovich that or a Pressure relief valve that’s adjustable kind a like they have on firetrucks to keep firefighters from blowing hydrants out of the ground
is He low key flipping someone off at 5:53 ? :). Love the videos, keep it up.
Look into float valves/switches and pressure switches so you could turn the generator on/off at either water height or pressure for an automated system
Maybe you could use 2 hole straps every 50ft or so to hold the pen stock. Use the blue tap con masonry screws and strap it to some big rocks
I love the comparison
I just thought, you can have good spring water home also with this also!
Where in PA are u?
I guess you dont have to worry about firefights ever being too slow
The Hunting Bear was thinking the exact same thing
dude you need a rubber mallet omg, love your work though.
Nice Wegmans bag!!
i think you might be getting a venturi effect from the pipe in your barrel,
WHY DID YOU GO FROM SHOWING NOZZLE output
Dude You got me hooked...Are you a Plummer by trade if not you should be!
They should've put a stop on that barbed clamp, to hold it out for the clamp.
7:46 What is commonly known as 'Ozzie Charm' there :P
LOVE THE CONTENT!!!!!!!!!!
Am i missing something here,i mean the water going into the black drum is way to slow to supply enough continue water to run your turbine?
I will have numerous size nozzles to select from, and one variable nozzle.
Good work
Just gob a bunch of silicone in there before the clamps. The bigger the gob the better the job :)
Also, my dude - you need a beefier drill.
That is my small drill, my big drill is a makita xph07, you may have seen it in my last video part 10
@@JoeMalovich And some better quality hole saws! That was painful to watch lol
You need to see stuff more positive, if those both clamps don't hold the fitting, you launched your first valve into low earth orbit 😙🎶
Made my day lmao
@@milanhlavacek6730 Housten, er, we have a problem....
I hope your ear buds survived
They are fine, I use the Skullcandy jib 2 earbuds from Walmart, great sound, comfy, cheap, integrated mic+button, and sometimes are capable of surviving going through the wash.
Sanitairy fittings galore...then he spits on the thing to lube it... ;-) (pulled your leg a bit...hope you don't mind)
And what exactly does a sanitation engineer do? Sanitary has many meanings!
I know I'm late but I hope I'm this cool of a dad
When in doubt.... DUCT TAPE
nice
Pls close the valves suuuuuper slowly
I have come to the conclusion you just like to play at being a fireman
WHY DONT YOU USE A tesla turbine 👈🤓
Water hammer
Second
first
first comment to your comment😁
Okay this is first video l watch but surely putting so much STRAIN on that little drill is kinda stupid right ?
I do realize TH-cam videos brings in money but when the focus is more on the person than the topic it really pisses me off more so when the guy seems totally not at home with what he's trying to " sell " !
Waste of my precious time.
WTF.......Go spend it somewhere else then if it's so precious.