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@@TAfidler79 sounds like you have the older auto pilot v1 board. Do not know what the other two wires with heat shrink is for. You should not be cutting any wires. What are you trying to accomplish? You don't get foot pedal and Bluetooth steering with my write up. This is for the newer models

@@VHarel-mt6yi i used a bldc motor off Amazon. Just a 2kw brushless motor with bicycle control. 2x2x1/8 aluminum angle and 2x4x3/8 aluminum for motor base A 1" dia 1/8" aluminum round tube as coupler which was cut then hand drilled in drill press for two different diameters of motor and electric motor. Then tap it for four o 10-24 set screws on it. The rest is a up to you how you assemble. Add a dpdt switch for speed high low. Another switch to tap into 5v ref wire if you want to control throttle.from hand switch or pot. Finally battery, that is the biggest cost. My cost to build this was under 500$ with battery, as I had the motor already.

@@malcolmlund7938 their low amp pump is same as regular pump. I measured current at 40 psi.

How could someone find and get the low current pump? Do they have to request it from the vendor on Amazon, or does the vendor have it listed on Amazon separate from the high amp pump?

@@malcolmlund7938 there is no low current pump on Amazon or eBay. It's all the same pump. Low current pump is OEM from marine dealers and they run 600$ and up

@@plapnab if it turns with autopilot but not foot control i would start with the plug from foot pedal. Make sure those contacts are clean. Use a small screw driver and close the pins on female plug so it make better contact with foot pedal. If that does not help trace the wires from plug to foot pedal switch, see if there is a break. I'll try to find diagram for old connector. Old foot pedals are expensive

@@omieyouknowme yeah, tried that as well. I think either the motherboard is bad in the pedal or the motor. Bummer.

@@plapnab if the motor turns with autopilot then steering motor and main board is fine. I'd look at foot pedal contacts, you can see the traces and if there is a break just cut out the sealer solder a jumper and rtv it back. The switch just sends a low voltage signal, should have a 5v if I recall that it sends.to board and steering motor.

@@omieyouknowme Everything looks good. Even took the motor apart and all the connections look good. There is one short white wire that comes out from under one of the capacitors that’s not connected to anything…maybe a ground?? Don’t see anything that it would be connected to. I think something inside the foot control motherboard is bad. Would be nice to know for certain before I start buying stuff.

@@adamviklund6574 your symptoms are exactly same as mine. The high pressure filter was clean as well. My original pump was dead when I purchased the motor. The pump was seized, it had sand in the impellor. I would assume that trying to start the motor with pump bad pump had caused high enough resistance that I fried the negative driver in the ECU. I am not shocked how fragile this design is, would have used a fuse at min with original design to blow if pump has instructions and causing higher Amperage draw. Good luck to ya. I sold this motor and boat last year.

@@omieyouknowme Thanks!!! Now that you mention it I saw some sand at the plastic thingey at the bottom on the original pump (where the filter sits) I bet there was sand in the impeller. Well then I think I have my answer. When I crank my engine I also (sometimes, it kinda comes and goes) get intermittent beeps and flashes on the engines warning light. According to the manual indicates ""Water temp or MAP sensor out of range". I assume the MAP sensor is reacting to the lack of fuel??

@@adamviklund6574 map sensor measures elevation for the first split second then it measure vacuum inside intake. It's used to measure how much air goes in then ECU applies fuel based off map sensor throttle position to achieve best air fuel mix. Basically a carb but computer compensates.for elevation and temperature too. The two initial beeps are oil pressure I believe, because the motor is not turning enough to open that switch. It's set to 5psi only. You can prob disconnect that switch ground it or open it and crank to verify.

@@trevorcothran3273 use the positive wire from ECU to trigger a relay to run pump. If motor shuts off it will open the relay and shut off pump. This is how it's done on all efi systems

@@trevorcothran3273 no. But if there is emergency you need to be able to kill it or fuel will keep pumping

@@trevorcothran3273 ya. But it's 600-700$ if it fries ECU you won't be on the hook hopefully

@@jakeunderwood2247 you can only use one either the pedal or remote. Can NOT use them together all this switch does is allow you to plug one in and use it without having to take apart the entire unit and switch wires inside.

⁠@@omieyouknowme just got mine done today. Wish I could post a picture of my switch.

@@malcolmlund7938 no other way around. All aftermarket pumps draw to much. Not paying 700$ for OEM pump. I modified the relay to drive aftermarket pump instead

@@omieyouknowme thanks so much - really appreciate your guidance!

@@omieyouknowme I wonder if Quantum is aware of this? Hopefully they would FIX it. People could get the word out by leaving comments on Amazon, and maybe the Quantum website feedback.

@@malcolmlund7938 I contacted them about this issue. Believe they updated their site to exclude this motor. Believe all aftermarket pumps come from same factory in China and just get different labels.

@@mick9850 knock on wood no issues. I have the larger remote and the mini. I find myself using the mini more often than the larger unit with LCD it does not have all features but spot lock and autopilot is all I use. I have rebuilt quiet a few lower units too from water getting into amature. Usually from bad o-rings that freeze and crack. I make sure to tilt and drain water from lower unit before stowing. The amateur are usually fine a little Emory cloth on copper and bearing surface good cleaning with new brush. I have had a few motors that would not seal not matter what I did. New oring was supplemented with clear silicone was final answer

@@michaellawson-j5z this is how it's normally done on cars trucks and larger outboards. For the smaller ones that can run without a battery, a capacitor is charged on the first pull to provide the 12v supply for everything. That same charge powers the ECU which in turn grounds internally for pump idle injectors ect. If you run these motors off a battery, yes you can just ground a relay, but most people buy the smaller motors to run battery less. My circuit still allows a battery less operation by taking excess amps from the charging circuit for pump.

@@dannyunger1618 yes. You are effectively disabling the head and going back to foot control with a switch vs taking apart the entire unit to rewire inside.

No red light or beep tells me either there is a short in brown wire telling ECU to shut off or ECU itself is not getting enough juice from the stator to power up. Check the brown wire at ECU connector with ground make sure it's not grounding while you move tiller handle. Then I would look at the big connector for ECU stator on starboard side of motor if it's lose. The yellow plug is for battery charging the black one with white wires is what provides juice for ECU from Stator. Stator rarely go bad but lose connections can cause intermittent issues. Finally ground the oil pressure line that goes to switch. Low oil pressure will reduce engine rpm should not prevent a start though This electric start?

@@omieyouknowme yes it is electric start. When the red light and beep happens it will run fine and crank all day but after sitting over night takes forever to crank. Thanks for getting back with me. Much appreciated

@@user-tx7ti2fh5s so it may be stator then not building up enough of a charge to wake up the ECU and power it. I don't have service manual on hand, be a few weeks before I'm home. I'd be looking at stator check continuity in those white wires.

@@user-tx7ti2fh5s just for kicks you may want to remove the ECU check the back side if any components blew out.

@@omieyouknowme checking power at white wires black connector( backprobing while cranking) had one circuit with 6 volts but nothing with 12 volt. Going to remove flywheel at lunch to check wiring at stator

You will get positive voltage at the pump lead but not negative if the ECU is fried. Verify by running the pump with external power source. The ECU just grounds the power, that's the failure not the positive side.

@@omieyouknowme so just to verify you are saying the ECU controls the pump from the negative terminal. Definitely still getting 12-14v on my meter when I hit starter across the pump harness leads. I want to try and measure the current in series and see if it drops under load

@@JoshTalbert yes it's a negative trigger. The positive is same and shared with coil and injectors and idle valve all on same line. Put your hand on ECU if it gets hot while running it's overloading that circuit and u are on borrower time. Other possible issue is pump is working to hard with high pressure filter plugged and drawing to much amps to keep up

The fuel system is a dead head design. I will have to check the manual, I sold the motor. But if memory is correct fuel comes out of pump into fuel cooler then filter. There is a T fitting before the filter and that outlet from T goes into regulator. This is pretty simple it pressurizes the line and filter and what ever is not need goes thru t and is regulated back in vst

I am not the expert, just posted how I did this. What is he having issues with? Is he upgrading from an older motor like I did to full Bluetooth and new control board?

Sorry to hear about the kill switch. Sadly once the fuel pump driver circuit is damaged it can not be repaired economically at least. I tried to remove the potting compound from the ECU with various chemicals and the time effort was not worth it. Be careful any pump other than an OEM pump even one from quantum could cause more damage. The cheaper aftermarket pumps, they do work fine on larger motors.

@@omieyouknowme Thank you very much for your quick response. Do you think that changing the fuel pump mentioned above recommended by Quantum, could solve the problem of the shut-off switch? Or does the fuel pump have nothing to do with the kill switch?

@@Aetius63 they are separate issues. If you can run the pump by applying 12v manually then crank the engine if still no start then there is something else going on. The kill switch is nothing more than grounding the brown wire. I would run a continuity check on the brown wire with kill switch in place. If you see ground on it with kill switch in place then there is a break in the wire somewhere to ground or switch itself is bad. The ECU rarely goes bad with the kill switch being grounded it's designed for that. Worst case trace the ground wire to ECU The brown wire goes to pin 3 this should not have ground unless kill cord is removed. Pin 28 on ECU is ground. This must be grounded at the lanyard with black yellow to brown or black to black on kill switch.

@@omieyouknowme The pump since it was replaced, works well and the engine always started without problems, the problem is that the engine would not start with the man overboard device put on the switch. But thanks to your guidance, we will review the continuity of the cabes and their connections. Thank you so much for your support

@@Aetius63 there are only three items that can cause a no spark no start. The kill switch, crank position sensors and stator. The crank position sensors if one fails will run but may not start. If stator fails it will not provide the need voltage to ignite the coils. Good luck. I often thought about adding a carburetor back into the block but this motor firing pattern is unique and needs sequential. Not possible sadly

I was able to modify the controller to accept a lower voltage before cutting out. The bms I added takes care of the high low voltage cutoffs now. It still is not a 2.2kw pack as advertised with the 12s2p config it's in. I bought it for the metal case. It works for my use and how I use it. If I could buy more I would but for no more than 200$ because I can build bigger packs at that price point.

Right on. Yeah, being the 16ah cells it would only be the 1.4kwh pack(16ahx2x44.4v nominal). Honestly though, the ones like you have are harder to find. I’d trade you a new 2.2kwh with the 25ah cells for your 1.4 with the 16ah cells of you were close. With what those cells in yours are rated for, you can pull 500amps from that module for 10 seconds and still be complying with the cell ratings.

@@JakeGlore-eu1ci I have the datasheet on this pack. Yes they are very impressive for how much they can deliver. I want to say it said it could sustain 300+ amps for 2-4 seconds. The way I use it I am pulling 2-3 amps only per hour, occasionally I'll run it up to 10a for a min or so. Right now I get 12-16 hours of use with a 4 hour charge time. So it works, works so well I have put my gas kicker motor up for sale.

Sorry can you translate

This ECU is not fixable. Same with all small engine ECU. If you know someone who is familiar with micro squirt you can build one for 350$. There is also speedunio option. These are small ECU you can program. If I find another 25-30 up tohatsu I will try this. But id be concerned if ECU keeps frying on the motor you have other issues.

If there is voltage and ECU is not sparking disconnect the kill lanyard wire. Believe they are the brown ones. Check each wire for continuity with ground if one is shorted out. The injectors working and no spark tells me it's lanyard or ECU. I will lean on the simple stuff first.

@@omieyouknowme even warning light is not turning on. i checked continuity on lanyard switch. there is no issue

@@omieyouknowme a faulty sensor can cause this problem?

@@RaajjeAnglers can you try cranking with kill switch engaged for few seconds then release the kill switch button. Like push starting a car with manual transmission. I have similar situation now on a Yamaha and this is how I start it. I had this same issue on a mercury few years turned out to be bad stator.

If ECU is failing you may have a bad ground or the pump, injector or coil is drawing more power than is provided by stator. One trick is to take the common hot wire, that runs the injectors and pump and run it via a battery. That is find the hot wire which is common for all these and tap it with +12v The ECU will drive the negative side to operate the injection and pump. This would tell you if ECU is bad or if there is an issue with one of the three pulling to much of a load and burned out ECU

Crank position sensor Single wire test against ground 148-222 ohms resistance Double wire test against red/white against black wire should be 148-222 ohms resistance Ignition coil resistance.17-.23 resistance with primary wire against ground Check the black yellow cable it's kill switch make sure it's not grounded

Blue wire on fuel pump is common hot. But if you do not have spark there is another issue

Hi I'm sorry to hear that. I do not repair ECU and the tohatsu ECU can not be repaired just replaced If you have no spark, then this is most likely a kill switch issue. Disconnect the brown wire for stop switch or lanard and try again. If that does not work I will find the specific test for the two crankshaft sensors if they fail the ECU will not spark either.

Ethanol is bad, but if you use the motor and burn thru it not as much. What's bad is using gas with Ethanol and parking it for months over winter and run it in spring. Now that water has separated and things start to corrode where it touches. Then the ethanol itself will eat old rubber. I run it when I know I'm going to be burning it off. My last tank is usually ethanol free before I Winter it. Even then I drain the fuel system

I'm sorry. I sold the motor and boat recently. The tiller was not bad, a 3/8" 2x4 aluminum plate was adapter. Bolt tiller to it then raise it up 1" bolt it to engine. The shift cable from Honda was used for throttle and a new mercury throttle cable was used.for shifting. Had to drill a new hole in the motor side for a shorter shift and throttle movement. All in all it works great. A tohatsu handle is probably cheaper and easier and can be found in eBay often. Honda tohatsu do share parts for some motors and larger tohatsu are Honda's

You can only use one either the foot pedal or ipilot head not both. This switch allows you to plug the foot pedal in without having to take apart the covers on base unit to switch the plugs inside.

@@omieyouknowme thank you replying. You did a great video explaining something I was wondering about for a while now. I just ordered my switch and will try it out. I love the ipilot upgrade but miss my pedal as well.

@@NorthRiverFishin This was the most cost effective way for power drive owners.

Thanks I'm selling my gas kicker. Like this one so much better

Motor was sold with 500 hours

Interesting that your serial is OR. I would not think that later models are affected by the weak fuel pump driver in ECU.

I am picking up a 2015 Yamaha vf150 in two weeks. It has 150 hours needs a head job. Once I get it running I'll prob throw a tune in it to bump it up to 230hp. The prev owner had a 250 in it and said it was to heavy and to much motor. I know it's rated for 300 but a two stroke. The 90 will have to do in the mean time, my 90 has 37 hours. I buy fix and upgrade motors. What speeds to you get with yours? What speed does it get on plane? How does it do they say 2-3' chop and swells that's what I expect in the lake where this is going. Thanks

The wires that come from the steering motor. They are usually black and white for all the motors I have worked on. It may be going to the main board instead of power head.

Yes. It's a cold start. Choke stays on for a min till it warms up. I After a min I usually turn it off.

@@omieyouknowme when it starts running poorly it’s time to shut it off.

I do not know how the I pilot link is connected. My video to use the foot pedal is for the basic ipilot and you only need to install switch on black and white wires which is for steering. No other wires are touched inside unit.

@@omieyouknowme well i have to hook the compass board on the head to actually get foot pedal to work .but then i can hook the black and white wire to the switch but I am scare to do it. i would the other wires are conected on top head board and botttom board .

but then i can think i can put the switch like u did but dont know if will burn my ipilot link im gonna try it today i think

@@rmalcat compass board? You have autopilot then with older board not the Bluetooth version. I do not think you should do anything risky. Ipilot link I am not familiar with.

@@omieyouknowme i got it to work still have to use the compass board with the wires i did took and cut off wires going to level emitters and put it next to the other board and used the switch how u wire up and it is working .u video help me figure it out . thanks alot sir

On/off/on, dpdt Suppose a on/on dpdt could work too

Can you tell me what your gear and passenger weight is? I take it you run ocean? What speed does it plane? Prev owner had a new Yamaha 250 on it. He said it was to much motor for it, he had 5x people and gear and would cruise 35 topped out 40+ I have a 150 in works, need to save up a bit more. The 90 is all I had right now just to get it wet. 80 percent it will be just me the other 20 will be with wife and dogs. My gear is 25lbs at most. Will find out in few weeks, our speed limit on lakes is 40 anyway.

A 200 HP is needed. A 150 might do, but...

@@omieyouknowme Yes i run the atlantic ocean out of New Jersey. Shes a solid boat, have had her 40 NM offshore for tuna a few times and it handled like a champ. When i did those runs i had myself and two bigger guys around 250/300lbs and my 200lb self, and with ice and gear probably another 100lbs. Cruised out around 25-28mph WOT was around 33mph but there was no need or rush to push it then

@@reellame thank you for that. It will be a 90 till I have funds for a bigger motor, I'm not in debt and won't go into it for a bigger motor you understand. If I find a used one for screaming deal, wife will be ok with that. I am Fishing protected lakes even if 90 is not enough, it will do till I find something bigger. Most of my runs are under 10 miles. 40 nm miles in a 21' is impressive. I did a lot of reading it was either this hull or a Watkins Seahawk or a trophy. All three where 21'.

Start with basic. Does it have spark? Get a can of starting fluid and a quick 1 second squirt inside intake and try to start. If it fires for few seconds you have spark and no fuel.

Then if no fuel can you rig up a 12v power supply to high pressure fuel pump, the yellow connector. Apply 12v does it run and shut off and not restart them pump is giving bad. If it runs and restarts.and stays running your ECU is about.to.go.out

@@omieyouknowme It will run fine in the tub or on the muffs and then when i do a lake test it will run fine and then when I shut it off it will start several time and then i do this run it some up the river and back a ways and turn it off near the launch so if it does not go im not stranded and every once in a while it will not restart .If i let it set a while it will start.I think its fuel starved but next tim out in taking something to check spark and fuel pressure if i can fine a fp gauge locally

@@terrymunn1224 get a cheap tire gauge from Walmart for 3$ stick it on shrader valve when motor is running to check fuel pressure, should be 40psi Fuel starvation hmm. Have you taken vst tank out and cleaned it? If you can get a vacuum pump gauge, stick the outlet from low pressure pump into gauge and crank engine, see if it's got at least 2 psi. If so low pressure pump is good. I had a piece of fuel line break off from hose and it went into vst and plugged the needle caused fuel starvation between low pressure pump to vst. Motor would run great at idle and 1500rpm. Anything more it would starve of fuel. Crank crank and crank to slowly fill VST then it runs. Run it at 2500rpm and it would die again

I am cleaning the vst right now and it was dirty and screen looked plugged.I will remove the low pressure pumpump and see if it ir serviceab le as well. @@omieyouknowme

Then you have never had to deal with a harbor freight trailer.

No you still have switch plugs. The switch is there so you don't have to remove cover to swap steering wires inside.

Remove the connector and apply 12v to pump manually and try starting If no fuel then yes pump is bad. Check fuel.pressure when applying power on shrader valve should be 43psi Sounds like you have spark but no fuel. I suspect bad high pressure fuel pump make sure low pressure pump is also working it should fill the vst quickly when cranking

Also check your oil, is it over filled. When your put gasoline inside cylinder directly you can dry it out of oil for lubrication and some of it can go inside oil pan and exhaust.

@@omieyouknowme In this engine, apart from the normal injector, there is also an air injector. I do not know how to control the air injector. The compressor is very good. What does air injector do? Could the cause of the malfunction be the air injector? Thank you very much.

@@ayhankucukozer1478 air injector? The engine is very basic If you put fuel into cylinders and it tried to fire that means you have air and spark. What's missing is fuel. There is air valve but that is attached to throttle body to regulate low speed idle and cold engine warmup. It will not prevent engine from starting. From what you said it sounds like fuel pump is not getting power or fuel pump is not working. When trying to start engine, there should be 13v at fuel pump at connection. If you have 13v and still no start, then apply 12-13v to fuel pump manually and see if it starts. If no start you have bad fuel pump.

@@omieyouknowme Greetings my dear friend.. There is a 50 hp thatsu engine. 3 injectors are intact, the brain is intact, the fuel pump is working... but I think there is no fuel reaching the pistons. It works when I spray brake lining spray inside. I am a mechanical technician myself. Apart from the 3 injectors of the engine, there are also injectors inside the compartment called the log, I think they adjust the air and gasoline mixture. Could it be one of these? What is your advice? I wish you a good day... From Tuzla, Istanbul Greetings... Gasoline reaches the injectors. In addition to the fuel pump, there is also a pressure box that pushes the fuel forward.