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Sorry I haven't owned this car in many many years.

@@Haloruler64oh dang , thank you .

It's "cozy" haha. Can't wait for a seat lowering bracket to be released, I believe Delta X Motorsport is working on one.

It would help, but I did not lift the car at all. Did it on the ground reaching in from below.

Zero drone, it's still relatively quiet but is now audible in the cabin. Mild exhaust but nice.

I'm still not sure. It would make sense that it does, the XSE has a very similar lockout function, but I don't know anyone who has tested this.

Ah man I sold it when I moved and didn't have space anymore. It's being loved and taken care of now rather than sitting neglected.

Fluid filled mounts are used for the sides, the sides are the ones that reduce vibrations the most. Pitch mount is rarely fluid filled (I think Porsche's adaptive mounts are) and stop engine rotation. 4 cylinders are cool and all, but this 3 cylinder is so unique!

Yeah, NVH is usually worst at a certain RPM range. For your car it's likely just at a slightly higher RPM< as the car seems to raise RPM when rolling. Pretty normal. If it's too much for you, you can always try the Delta X mount with a 60A bushing. I'm running the Delta X 70A and it's smoother than the SXTH mount, but every chassis is different.

I totally understand your concern. But pitch mounts are pretty standard mods for a ton of cars over the decades, including my 2000 MR2. The top two mounts usually deal purely with vibration and damping, not with engine rock, so you might be putting more stress on them, or you might be prolonging their life since they're not dealing with twisting force anymore. Hard for me to say, I'm no engineer. On the topic of cheap, I don't think me saying the mount is "cheap" is necessarily accurate now that I think about it, but it's definitely way too soft and "daily friendly" for a performance car. It impacts the driveability of the car when pushed hard way too much, even on the street.

@@Haloruler64 this is something that’s been debated on for instance STI forums and the going consensus it’s best to replace all mounts. The Brits and Australians have had this platform in the form of the Yaris longer and they replace all 3. I think it’s especially critical with 3 cylinder engines since they are inherently highly imbalanced. Evenly numbered engines can be more forgiving. Only time will tell, on my part not worth the risk of hairline cracks. As for drivability it all boils down to adaptability and developing your skill to the car itself. I know of a guy rallying the GR Corolla competitively and consistently winning. The rules in the class he is competing in stipulates the car has to be 100% stock not a single thing can be changed

@@kengit2 You can do amazing things on a stock car. The stock mount doesn't ruin driving, but it just feels a lot better with an upgraded mount. To me it's a must have for driving feel, even for a daily. I love the Delta X I'm currently running.

They had to change the business name, I'll update the link in the description but here it is: www.marvelmotorsports.com/steering-wheels/fortoyotagr/grc Keep in mind I custom ordered mine with OEM grip profiles, I didn't want an extreme grip.

Haha feel free to approach me next meet, or shoot me a message on Facebook.

@@hasonlavajunk9774 that's very weird. I have near 0 NVH. I think because each GR Corolla chassis is hand assembled and hand glued, each one reacts a little different to mounts. Also torquing the bolts on the transmission bracket in a certain order allegedly makes a big difference. Glad you're happy though! Sorry to hear the SXTH mount didn't work out

My NVH with my SXTH is... unpredictable. I would say its never unbearable, but it seems like in certain conditions the vibrations worsen. The worst is when coasting in neutral, mostly at low speeds. Parked at idle it's fine. It's almost like my car is trying to idle lower when it's coasting for some reason lol.

I too own a rivet gun from Home Depot and have no self control

Technically you can use the high brightness mode currently wired as a brake light as a turn signal! Can't do brake and turn signal though, they'd interfere without a controller. So if you wanna tap the high side into a turn signal that'd work.

Great job! Nice video thanks.

Sorry I don't know, we do not get the Altis here.

Yes, he finally has a site now! www.deltaxmotorsport.com/shop

Sure, what do you want to know? All I have is the Likewise RLX lockout, which I have a video on for installation, and switch between a Likewise knob and Raceseng knob with their respective adapters. Do check out that video I made on the RLX lockout, it's detailed.

Hmm, is the knob too narrow and it gets stuck inside the knob? Does it get stuck without the knob on? Did you use the Likewise washer? Mine is buttery smooth.

@@Haloruler64 I’m using the ghost knob from likewise. It gets stuck without the knob and with the knob like it doesn’t retract back after I get it out of reverse, I’d have to manually push it down. And yes I did use the likewise washer and it’s still doing the samething

@@ralphgarcia9643 That's very unusual... I dunno what it could be getting stuck on. Is it lubed all the way down? Some debris stuck between the shift shaft and the lockout?

Nah, I just lost it after removing the airbox a dozen times. I got a new one for a few bucks at the dealer.

Glad to help!

I've had zero rattles. Pretty much OEM+ experience. Love the sound, really deep and bassy. But no drone on the freeway at all still.

@@Haloruler64 are we still talking about the armrest?

@@1989CutlassCiera hah sorry no. I thought this was about my midpipe. My bad!! No the armrest doesn't rattle for me. It's not the best built thing in the world but I've had it on and off a bunch and it's still fine

@@Haloruler64 awesome! Thanks for the info! I think I’ll probably do it especially for the price!

For the FX-GT model, yes. For the BZ Touring, the original turn signal was the corner light.

Thank you! I actually noticed that a thin washer helped with the SXTH Element bushing paired with the Forge shifter. Just on one cable. With the new setup, no rattle. I'm a big fan.

Thanks for the kind words! Glad I can help.

I got it from GR-Store, I ordered it custom with more OEM style grip profile so it's not as aggressive, but with the carbon fiber top and bottom and a flat bottom. Love it. I did another video about making the heater element plug-and-play, but they made all of them plug-and-play now!

@@Haloruler64 I just saw your install video. That’s a bit much for me I think I’ll just leave mine stock, it was nice seeing the install though.

@@DBX79 for sure man. Thankfully you don't need to do any wiring anymore. It's relatively easy. Maybe you'll feel comfortable doing it down the line!

@@Haloruler64 It’s possible. So how are you liking the car by the way? I love the car, but I wish I would have waited just a little longer to get a CE because those cars were hard to find at any dealer. Lately some have CE’s sitting on the lot.

@@DBX79 I love it! No regrets. I worry that the CE's suede interior would get damaged and grimy quickly as it's my daily driver. I've kinda been upgrading it here and there my own way and I'm in love with the car.

Maybe try removing the insert inside the knob? Might be rubbing

@@Haloruler64 I removed that insert/collar (whatever you want to call it). Feels MUCH better. With the collar there was even resistance pushing the knob in (wouldn't freely rise back after being pressed sometimes), in addition to a strange feel when rotating. Now it feels fine.

@@bloominguez interesting! I should try removing mine even though mine doesn't really feel off. Might be better. Glad it worked out though!

@@Haloruler64 Let me know if you feel a difference. I like the look of the new (RAV4) knob better, and it's much easier to grab and use now (compared to the original small knob). I really wanted this to work and was initially really disappointed with the feel.

@@bloominguez Went to the garage and tried it. I didn't FEEL like my knob had friction, and it clicked in and out just fine, but it felt a little... creaky. I just thought it was a cheaply made radio. Removed the insert and it DOES feel better, smoother now. Thanks for pointing that out to me!

Awesome, glad to help!

Let me know! I'm curious what others thoughts are

@@Haloruler64 Will do.

Sick! I saw the discontinuation and got a blue Nad just because I like the black one so much. Now I'll have a pair of Nads...

Yeah that's why I had to get em. Glad it helps!

It's in the description!

It's for either. You have to select all four doors of the 3 options. It's the second option for $99.50.

Why don’t you go and check it out, read the description and figure it out? Like any normal functioning adult would do?

How long are your arms?

Nope

Hey man, that's very kind of you to say! What part of the shift boot install is giving you issues? Removing the boot from the console? What shift boot did you buy?

@@Haloruler64 thank you! its a mishimoto universal shift boot kit, it came with the boot as well as a retainer. so i followed exactly up to about 4:21, i pulled the entire shift surround up and pulled the lockout up with the c clamp. but there two things i wasnt sure of: the first was separating the lockout from the shift boot. in the video yours just slid out (4:25) but there was a lot of resistance in mine. two hands pulling and it almost felt like it wasnt supposed to come out of the shift boot. however, with all the wiring and stuff i couldnt really get a great angle on it. does it just kind of pop out? still using the stock lockout with a billetworkz spacer and knob (which your video helped with <3). then my second concern was how to actually remove the leather shiftboot from the surround- i kind of underestimated the actual removal of the shift boot, it looks like i might be able to separate the shift surround from the boot itself via the clamps to get a better look at it. i saw in your video with upgrading the shift surround you spoke of 6 screws on the underside, would these screws open up the shift boot more? any insight is super appreciated, thanks again for responding! absolutely loving this car. i have the rav4 knob en route too lol

@@buddhaburna7853 Ok so for popping the stock lockout off, the first time it's a bit tight. But yeah if you have two hands it's much easier, Peel one edge off the lockout then work around it rather than just pulling like I did in the video. As for the connectors, you push the latch in and the connector should slide out. They're a little stiff but push the latch in all the way. I've never removed the boot from the car. But it looks like it's just clipped in. At exactly 4:19 you can see all the clips around the shift boot. As for attaching the new universal boot to that series of clips, I have no idea. I found a video for a standard Corolla Hatchback and most of it looks extremely similar. th-cam.com/video/GBG_L_PxqYg/w-d-xo.html