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Yes, exactly that one, I had enough with the 1L bottle.

Thanks! This engine is also Euro3 without a DPF filter

I guess by "throttle unit" you mean the EGR valve, diesel engines don't have throttles, they're controlled by fuel. But anyway, I get your point, solving this "heavy breathing" issue is one of the projects I have in mind for this year, I'd like to plumb a catch-can in series with the original oil separator and see if it helps. Also, the EGR valve is deactivated at control level, I keep the body of it installed because tech inspection.

Yes, I've done the same thing. Looks stock😅... Most people won't understand the difference between throttle and the EGR. I've always "deactivated EGR" FROM EVERY DIESEL I'VE OWNED. FYI, great video. Love the raw version. No BS. GOOD JOB.

They were a little bit more difficult to install than Powerflex. Though I don't think I'm able to tell you exactly about the difference in handling and NVH, as I only used Tedgum where I couldn't get Powerflex (almost all my bushings are Powerflex Black Series). But overall I'm happy with the results, they're much easier to install than the OEM rubber ones (but more difficult than Powerflex), you don't need to torque them down at ride height with the suspension loaded, and I don't feel an increase in NVH, vibrations or anything like that. The car feels more planted on the road, the handling is sharper, and I noticed an increase in cornering speed. Overall, my opinion is this: - Poly bushes on suspension: YES - Poly bushes on engine, transmission, diff: NO

@alexderkach_ thanks for the quick reply! And what about the squeaking and maintaining these bushes? 🤔

It's been 6 months since I installed them, so far no squeaking and no maintenance. Plus, recently passed my yearly tech inspection without uncomfortable questions from the technicians.

Thanks! But don't worry, it's been 10 months since I did this video, and I've recently checked the swirl flaps and they're absolutely fine.

It depends on the engine. On my engine the chain tensioner is spring loaded.

@ any way to tell? i have the 118d 90kw/120hp m47 engine

Hmmm I see. In your engine the tensioner is also spring loaded, but there are multiple revisions of the same part. So maybe you only need to change the TOP tensioner. Source: www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=UB31-EUR-09-2006-E81-BMW-118d&diagId=11_4089

@@alexderkach_ appreciate the info man. dropped a sub

Thanks! Unfortunately, the ramaining play is related to a detent pin inside the gearbox. I'd need to drop the gearbox down to fix it. Would like to do that some time in the future!

£260? No, thanks.

@ that’s a good price, should have been £360 for the pair.

My heart skipped a beat or two there, ngl

Thanks for the support!!

Thanks Adrián! Yeah you’re right, it’s not too difficult although it is time consuming. In my case what made the job difficult was the weather and the lack of some tools, but hey, all in all I’m happy with how it turned out. 261.000km - your engine is almost new!

Thanks for the suggestion, but the EGR is not connected (the valve never opens) and in my opinion it doesn’t restrict the inlet of the manifold enough to justify deleting it. All that soot was from when the previous owner had it working, years ago. Also, I keep the EGR valve installed to avoid uncomfortable questions during the yearly tech inspection. With regards to swirl flaps, I’m thinking about upgrading them to an aftermarket version without screws. I’d like to take advantage from this dual runner manifold and gain a little bit of torque at the lower RPM due to the Helmholtz resonance.

hey

💅

What kind of issues did you experience with the pump?

@ its the bosch vp44 pump. The mechanics are generally fine, but the electrical part of the pump gives problems first. A capacitor has blown and had to be replaved. The pump had to be taken off to do it

Understandable skepticism

100% it has already been changed ​@@alexderkach_

Thanks! Yes, definitely could've used some wellies and could've made a lot of things much better than how I did. But I was far from home and on a very tight schedule and didn't anticipate that I'd need to step on the manifold to stop it from moving around. But anyway, better done than perfect. About the injectors on the M57, yes, that appears to be the case, very interesting.

You mean where can you get the key fob case?

Thanks! It made absolutely no difference to engine dynamics whatsoever. But I'm glad I did it, it was worth checking the swirl flaps and cleaning them up.

@@alexderkach_ hahah, I feel you. I do this on all my vintage cars, hugely satisfying!

Couldn't agree more with what you said. Also, that corolla will outlive us all.

There is no oil separator filter on this engine 😉

@alexderkach_ not gonna pretend that I know all of these engine modifications but it looked pretty sure like an oil separator cap as soon as you removed the air filter cap, but might be mistaken :D Keep up the maintenance ✊

In regards to oil separators on M47’s there are two variations (as far as I know): 1) centrifugal separators 2) the ones that come with a serviceable filter My engine has the former, so it doesn’t need to be serviced 👍🏻

Wow, I’ve never had a car that new

Thanks!! Short answer: you don't need to torque it at ride height. Long answer: with the poly bushings I use in the video (and Powerflex bushings in general) there's no need to torque them down at ride height. This is due to the way they are designed (I mention this in my other video "Switching to polyurethane bushings | BMW e46 Compact | Powerflex & Tedgum" at 6:38), where the internal metal sleeve can rotate independently from the bushing. So it doesn't matter if you torque it down at ride height, at full extension of at full compression. There's never a "hysteresis", or in other words, the bushing doesn't experience additional stresses around it's operating point due to how far or close to it the bushing was torqued at installation. Now, if you were to install OEM bushings, then yes, my recommendation would be to always torque them down at ride height. But anyway, take what I say with a grain of salt, as I am just a random dude from the internet.

Thanks!! I didn't film the entire process of adjusting the handbrake because I thought it was boring and didn't add anything of value to the video, but what I did was: 1) Release tension from both cables 2) Tighten the cog all the way (this is my reference point) 3) Rotate the cog 10 times in the opposite direction (this way I ensure both brake shoes are at the same distance from the drum) 4) Pull the parking brake lever 6 clicks 5) Tighten the cables until wheels rotate with same amount of resistance

@@alexderkach_ahh that’s basically the same as me, I think it came across different on video xdd

221,51€

90º

Thanks for sharing your experience! In my case, it's the complete opposite, I can't recommend them enough. Your problem with Strongflex Red PU cound be due to their compound being softer (80 ShA vs Powerflex's Black Series 95 ShA) or the overall design of their RTAB's, leaving wheel misalignment aside. But either way, glad to hear you've been getting good results with the Uniballs, from what I understand, they seem to be the quintessential RTAB for the E46 chassis. Did you leave the rest of the bushings stock? Or you're using then in combination with PU and rubber? Any recommendations on suspension dampers? In regards to the diff bushing - yes, it's cooked. I have a new one sitting on the shelf, waiting for decent weather so I can install it.

@@alexderkach_ Well the PU RTABs were pretty tight even after 2 years. The problem is that the trailing arm can't follow his toecurve with pu. That even stresses the Chassis mounting point. That's what I have heard and read about this. Maybe it's different with the powerflex black ones. I got oem unibal (lemförder) bushings in my trailing arm top and bottom. Upper inner wishbone bush is still PU red 80 sha, but soon I will change it like you to powerflex black. The bottom wishbone is from the e46 csl with inner oem unibal. The 3 diff bushings are Strongflex 80sha red. A bit more differential noise but still "dailyable". And I checked the big rear bushing after 70k km and it still looks good. I have a ST XTA Suspension with adjustable front top mount for more camber. That's pretty good for ~1200€ But if you are running good semislicks and are fast it is too soft. Then i would change to a ST XTA plus 3 or KW Clubsport.

Hmm what you're saying about the toe curve makes sense. So I guess if I eliminated the deflection from the RTAB by stiffening that point, the next weakest point would that flimsy stamped steel lower control arm and the lower exterior bushing. Because the upper exterior bushing is a solid spherical bushing, which allows for the extra degree of freedom. I wonder if it would be possible to visually see the deflection on it, by stiking a camera underneath the car and taking it for a spin on a twisty backroad. In your case, after switching to Uniball, have you had to reinforce the mounting points (by welding)? If not, have you noticed any cracks on the chassis? I've always heard people laughing at the e46 chassis for being soft and crack, but never quite understood the exact reason behind it. I think this only happens when you start stiffening what otherwise would be the designed weakest point of the suspension, but maybe you could share some of your experiences in this regard.

@@alexderkach_ So from what I read about the past 7 years is, that the 4 subframe mounts crack a lot because of the rubber bushing are too soft or getting to much play, which causes a bending force on the bolts which cracks the "soft" chassis. On my compact I don't have cracks after 220k km, only some surface rust but I upgraded too PU 80 Sha 70k km ago. The RTA mounts are also a little rusty but no cracks. I read that Unibal as RTAB is the best and even the most stressless solution for the mounting points. Also the subframe bushings should be as hard as possibile. Of course stiffening every mounting point with reinforcement plates is always the best option, but I tried it without and have an eye on it.

Won't work if the battery is completely dead

No amount of charging will wake up a “Dead” battery!!!🙄

⁠@@darrenboston342​​⁠have you ever heard of using a welder to renew a 12 volt car battery?? A BMW ignition charger is very weak and only charges wile driving a cell phone charger is many times more powerful and you can charge it for 24 hours

@ whatever pleases you pal, can’t be doing with farting about, just buy new! Done!👍

It's this one: amzn.to/3WHfueu

Thanks man, I was having a bad day and your comment cheered me up 👍🏻