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OMG, what a nightmare. I would have walked away, and I've rebuilt a lot of boats. Understand these repairs are all secondary bonds, i.e, on dry cured surfaces dependent on good sanding, but never as strong as bonds at construction, especially to air inhibited polyester, or vinylester, lay ups.

A well build long keel boat with nice lines is still the best boat to sail and is strong as can be.... but yeah less space for dock party's...

Looks like a stunning location. We viewers don't know the sea floor profile or exact anchoring conditions at your last anchorage and it seems popular for both motor and sail vessels to anchor very close to an unforgiving rocky coastline. Weather forecasts are not bullet proof and in such a position you have zero tolerance for any anchor movement or resets with changes in wind direction. Given what you've gone through with the charter grounding, I would be backing off for safe measure.

Vera Nice Job of Patrick. 👌🏻 I also understand of the way hoe the repair has been build up.

Thanks for information in your video, exactly what I was looking for. The video is well done too. Cheers

Beneteaus, Lagoons, Bavarias, and many open stern, toy keel boats: 💩💩💩

Call me old fashion but a full keel skeg protected rudder is the way to go.

What do they say? buy once, cry once.

Thanks for sharing. Nice to see the step by step and I learned a bunch.

The range is 33 to 37 grams of salt per liter so, I could be wrong but I suspect temperature plays a much bigger role than the difference in salinity.

Outstanding craftsman.

Why not have the bilgepump pumping out the water over the water line?

@SailingAurora the comment section in response to the videos you post is absolute gold. The amount of valuable information shared here is priceless. Keep on posting without the fear of making mistakes because the ideas it generates is amazing material for us boat owners/ TH-cam expert troopers

This matrix and bolt on keel construction method tied to the relative thinness of fin keels and the forces exerted on the keel /hull joint don't fill me with confidence. I'm looking at an encapsulated keel. Probably full or modified with skeg gor the rudder. Preferably in steel. Slow but a battleship.

The way Expedition Evans did their boat is the only way! How builders like Hanse and Beneteau can get away with bonding (gluing) the ribs and stringers to the hull is crazy. They provide the strength to the boat and should be fully glassed in. Your bulkheads are also not fully glassed into the boat. All this makes a week boat that will flex like crazy! This is such a poor build method and can only be done to save labour hours / save cost / cut corners. The issue with so many modern production boats built is trying to design and build a large boat at a lower cost. Something has to give, and it’s quality definitely. Cheap small cleats, thinner hull (to keep weight down my ass) less fibreglass and resin + less cost. OK save money but you are going to sea in a bit that is basically not safe. How any of these boats get an CE Category A rating is a joke! This rating covers largely self-sufficient boats designed for extended voyages with winds of over Beaufort Force 8 (over 40 knots), and significant wave heights above 13 feet (7m), but excluding abnormal conditions such as hurricanes. Sorry but I would not like to be at sea in a Hanse in those conditions. It would rip that boat apart. I’m not saying they should not be sold, I’m saying they should have a Category B rating at best, but more realistically a Category C rating. Don’t get me wrong I have owned and lived abroad a Jenneau 45.2 and had it in 50 knots and 4m seas…..scary as hell but the boat stayed together. I have also owned an Amel Super Maramu for the last 6 years, had over 6k knots and 6m seas….not fun but not as scary as the Jenneau in 40 knots and 3m seas. Felt safe at all times. My point is they really need to stop marketing and selling these boats claiming they can safely cross oceans. I know many do but! They are definitely not Category A!! Perfect for coastal and Mediterranean cruising, let’s face it that is what they are built for.

That grid is the backbone of the boat and to fail like that…shocking!! I wouldn’t like to sail over an ocean on a Hansa!!

Having to fit grab rails on a company on way on a new boat! Who designed it to go to see without sufficient grab rails!

That is so bad! A boat that can’t take a groundhog at 5 knots!! We are in a production boat that is 32 years old Amel Super Maramu, and it would easily take that. Our Friend also hit rocks at 8 knots in a Jenneau 49 Sun Odyssey. Stuck high on the rocks for 3 hours before it was towed off with 2 boats. One to heel it over while the other pulled it off.. scrapes to the bottom of the keel and gelcoat repair on the rudder. Hull fine, keel bolts fine…..Jenneau is definitely a production boat. Sorry mate I’ve sailed on many new Hansa yachts….they are built very poor indeed. Build quality is just cheap crap I’m afraid.

Nice! No way any yacht builder that gives you lots of spare door hinges and latches with a new boat is crazy! It’s to me basically saying our hinges and laches we use are so cheap poor quality we know they will fail…..so have this bag of spares!!! Shocking! Also mad to swap out a new manual toilet for an electric toilet on a boat you want to charter!!! That’s going to give you so much maintenance every time someone puts something they shouldn’t done it!

Nice! No way any yacht builder that gives you lots of spare door hinges and latches with a new boat is crazy! It’s to me basically saying our hinges and laches we use are so cheap poor quality we know they will fail…..so have this bag of spares!!! Shocking

I suspect the boat is being assembled with more care and precision than it ever had during manufacture

Wow. So glad I have a 1976 solid fiberglass hull 2 inches (2 plus in some areas) with encapsulated full keel. I decided to refit a 1976 Westsail instead of new ones. I wanted a strong tank. Really enjoyed all the detail in the video. I love doing the work and so rewarding todo it myself.

Within the first few minutes of starting this video, I knew that I had found a great channel! Interesting, informative and enjoyable, I learned important aspects of boat construction within the first few minutes. Subscribed.

I think your momy and daddy paid for your new boat and then they had to pay for repairs because you don't know how to steer the boat.

Nice video, thank you! A lot good commenting, so much that can't read them all so I'm probably partly repeating... and there is 3 years to catch up with. I do one-off designs and the common nominator for all projects is not just the need to get a custom design but also to build the boat differently vs. production boats. My customers usually want to avoid closed structures, hidden components, too tight engine rooms, and ensure that watertight compartments really are watertight etc. A thought about the bilge pump: In some boats a small pump sits on the bottom and then there is a bigger pump a bit higher up. The small pump takes care of every day business and the big pump kicks in if there is a real leak so to speak. Good luck with the project although from the looks of things it is taken care of by pros at this point so hopefully luck is lesser of a component:)

Production boats today are not quality builds. The fin keel design bolted on is poor with continuous keel failures. I dont trust them. The flat bottomed hull will be prone to slamming. These hull designs are not seagoing more for harbour use as a floating caravan. Hate to think what would happen in the ocean if you hit an object like a container. Now we have Orcas damaging destroying rudders. Me thinks long keels encapsulated ballast is the better option.

Tks for the videos, one question… why didn’t use peelply on vtr?

The flanges should have been cut off to laminate the floors directly to the hull. This would have eliminated possible air pockets in the edges and more importantly make a better less flexible bond. Also the brittle polyester glue would have been removed and replaced.

There's been some mistakes here. The strength of the resin is completely non relevant for the strength of the boat. Strength is given by the fibres, which is the reason why performance boats are built in vacuum, reducing the amount of resin and pressing the fibres closer together. It's even the other way around as Epoxy is the far better glue and can be configured to be really flexible. The comment of gbr562 below just hits the point. Additionally I just want to say, that EP is not watertight but takes only 3% humidity while polyester takes 11. Don't know about vinylester, probably similar to polyester. Osmosis renovation is done with Epoxy. With stainless bolts you can't be sure if they are still good unless they have been x-rayed. Nothing else will tell, if there are microscopic cracks. Even not crack finder spray. A German naval architect.

Hi , I just saw your repair project and you mentioned skin fittings and valves… seriously consider Marelon valves and skin fittings… they are immensely strong as they are not just nylon…they are glass fibre reinforced and comply with commercial survey specs… i use True Design fittings on my boat

lol can’t compare a HR with a beneteau can you ?

that bilge pump I'd consider TWO of them if you're refitting! I know its a 40 amp draw but batteries are perfectly capable of handling that and it could save your boat (and especially if you get knocked down and lose that keel)! and of course if you don't need both of them you'd only need to turn one of them ON. Also have the outputs above the water line one on one side and the other on the other. Also I'd suggest plastic through hull fittings. Yep. I mean you can put protectors around those fittings on the outside to protect against impact damage. That's what I would do, anyway. Sure I mean what are the odds of them getting impacted anyway not very high unless you're a complete idiot. Does this boat sport a full keel? hey don't go deep blue with a fin keel! Those things just cannot handle huge waves! This also means you have either a skeg or even worse, spade rudder. I owned a cape dory 28 for a number of years that thing could go anywhere on the planet even though it was only 28 feet. But no way I'd be out there in the big pond with a fin keel like you have there. The cape dory also had a keel mounted rudder that thing was indestructible. Your boat has either been dropped on its keel by some idiot or an even bigger idiot ran it aground at speed. Once again a long keel would be unaffected by this and in fact at dry dock the cape dory can sit on its keel with only the side supports keeping it upright. I even careened mine to save some bucks to anti-foul it. You would not wanna try that with a fin keel! Cape Dory's don't have keel bolts either its molded right into the hull when its layed up (its not added later). Wow the shear load on those bolts in a heavy sea? nope not going there. Old aged out salt here I've said my piece.

Strewth a lot of work , but necessary, I dare say Good luck 🐼🐼🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

The big question still unanswered is, what's the budget of this gig?; the price of a used small boat? Good videos anyway!

I'm work in Hanse 6 years😉😎

It sounds like Pantaenious insurance company handled the situation well after the disastrious grounding happened. Is that correct? We use this insurance company today, because it has some awesome conditions. Especially if your boat is not brand new

I will probably never buy a brand new boat for personal use. it is way better to buy a 5-10 year old boat second hand from the original solid owner. That will cut the cost in half. Then you do not have to think about chartering the boat to finance it.

Do I Love my Steel sailing boat!!! 😜⚓

Using polyester-resin over anything old will ONLY create mechanical bond that is much weaker than using EPOXY over old laminate. If you can afford, always use EPOXY when doing repairs. BUT: when doing complex forms, like laminating over different structures, you get some extra strength into your structure. New laminates should be done in short time, so that all the layers form also CHEMICAL BOND, not just mechanical. I would also use stainless steel bolts or screws to connect old and new structures, just in case. Interesting to see from this video: the damage to the interiors ! Never thought they could be also so massive.

Many would think that if a boat cannot take a grounding, it is not structurally fit for general purpose usage - shame on the designers and the manufacturer

I like your content a lot and I really wish it was more up-to-date other than you know several months behind you guys are showing an area for sailing that really does not get shown that's a great thing I always wondered about sailing in the Scandinavian countries 🤠😎🤠

I have more than 40 year old bronze through hulls on mine, and they're still good as new. But they're hard to find (sold in the U.S.) and expensive.

I'm surprised insurance companies cover boats so poorly manufactured

Just think how much less work would have been involved in building the boat correctly in the first place

It doesn't work it's just cheap Glad I'm going to buy a steel boat

Mate I'm an home boat builder using epoxy/glass composites and I could tab in that entire grid section to the hull with glass 4 inch tape and epoxy in one day no problem

I am happy looking for a 90’ Halberg Rassy instead of a 2020’ production boat 💪🏼💪🏼💪🏼

Having a beutiful classic sailing yacht, Nicolson design, with a long keel stem to stern, which to me is the perfect design. The modern fin keel with bolts into the skeleton matrix supports, to me is awful and so prone to damage as we see in this video. If your buying a sailing yacht always go traditional long keel yacht safe and secure in a very unforgiving sea!

you have a good yard. excellent work,,,,,,,,,,,,better than new.............

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