Great vid, this was a lot of work! (the edit alone lol not to mention the actual install!) Wish I had time right now to watch it all. Will save and come back. Keep it up!
Wouldn't it be better if the breaker is in an easily reachable place in case it blows off. And of course as close to the battery as possible as its supposed to protect the electrical wire, not the winch. In a tight moment that blown breaker will be in a difficult place under the bunk.
Hi Kenneth, good point with the breaker location. Could be good to have it in a better place but it takes 1 second to lift the bed also. I have fitted a 300amp fuse on the bus bar now also, no problems there. Cheers
With the Anchormatic there is much less water than the shot line. Pretty much sits on top on the band. There is some but it just evaporates or I take a towel in the worst case
Thank you for the very interesting video! Highly appreciated that you kept this technical diy video long and detailed to give more realistic view on different steps of the process. And as typically with all of us you were having obstacles during installation steps. I actually went through installation process for the same anchormatic solution for my motor boat prior previous season. Still gainig experience for the use of it. Compact size and flexibility with installation place were guiding me to choose this product. Keep up the good work with nice videos!
Hi Kimmo, glad you like the solution also and the format of the video also. I always debate about releasing something like this but if I can help someone somewhere doing the same thing its worth it to me. Cheers 🍻
Hi. Good video to check prior to my mounting of the same in a Dufour 390! Thanks. How did you find out the distance between anchor davit and the through hole + the location of the davit?
Use something thin and straight once you have mounted the davit in the location you want it. A welding rod works really well and then you can really line it up with where the hole needs to be drilled
For the location of the davit, make sure its above the water line but the location really depends on where the line needs to run on the inside of the boat to the winch. The first roller should be 30+ centimeters away for the winch. Let me know if your stuck with it.
@@SailingAurora You were super quick to answer 🙂. The distance to first roller is anyway far more, and I am quite free where to to make the hole in the transom. Therefore wondered if there are anything other that would guide, especially vertically (and other than bathing platform).
Not really to be honest,, you just have to string it all up like I did in the video and see what looks right. 1. Avoid the bathing plaform 2. Keep the anchor out of the water 3. Try and make sure the davit is level 4. When the davit is up, make sure you can tie it up there easily 5. Position the hole in line with the windlass on the inside 6. use a welding stick or similar to guage how far the hole should be above the davit 7. Measure twice, drill once :) and do it while the boat is on land Hope this helps
Hi Cris, some advise drilling A4 or A2. Keep the revolutions as low as possible and the feed as high as possible and use good cutting oil. Otherwise your going to burn your drillbits and more importantly workharden the steel which will make further drilling very difficult. Laminating the wooden struts yuo could have made a corner rounding fillet of thickened epoxy in the corner between the wood and grp bottom.
Indeed, thanks for the tips. I learnt the hard way once drilling too fast, just hardens the metal.... really frustrating. As for the laminate, you are right. Would have been sufficient with alot less work
I really like your channel. It's so inspiring! After being without boat for some years, I just bought one again this winter. My boat will be in svinninge marina as yours. So maybe we will meet up there.
The reason the epoxi hardens faster when you mix more together is because the hardening process creates heat, and the when you mix smaller batches the surface area is larger compared to the volume. This gives the epoxi more chances to cool down, which will slow the hardening process.
...aaaaaaand Bob's your uncle! ;-)) Dude, that was a HELLUVA work you put in there! And you're putting holes in that boat like a machine gun - totally fearless! Great watch, and good learnings! You've got some serious skills there. Doin' a fair bit of DIY myself (not marine for now, though), but need to stay away from electric and engine (at least until competent). Didn't need further editing at all, and I actually think your stuff is consumed best raw, like that...Completely captivated by your pieces, but don't worry - won't be stalking you any time soon... ;-)) (but do allow me to send a few pints down your Patreon for the entertainment) . Cheers
Thanks very much, that's a very kind comment. It was a big job indeed but I guess I could have made it alot simpler, happy with the result though. I actually ended up missing out on the post on patreon rushing around before Easter and all, I'll make sure I'll put it there. Really appreciate your support, thank you and glad you liked the video format. I'll try to do more specifically for patreon only
Very useful video 👍🏻 I'm glad you showed your mistake, that's exactly the kind of thing you want to be reminded of when looking for TH-cam instructions on how to laminate with epoxy. Regarding the fuse placement, it is always said "close to the power source", although I think it only matters if something punctures the cable insulation before the battery and that risk is probably very small. The real risk is that you overload the winch motor and it burns and short-circuits. Then it hardly matters where the fuse are located it will release and save the cable.
Thanks for your kind comment, it was probably the most stupid mistake I made but thought I'd shown it none the less. Good thoughts on the fuse, I ended up just putting a 300amp fast blow fuse additionally on the power bar, easy job. Thanks, Chris
Hi Chris. Good work! What made you pick this winch solution over one which could be bolted on the transom, one made for a leaded line? I’m just about to procure a system my self, hence the question. Thanks.
Hi Niklas, mainly because I tried the other solution on a 388. The Båtsystem leaded line worked OKish, but the drop was not enough for the rope in the lazarret and I kept having to shake the bag to get it to grip the line again. In a windy situation this became a huge problem. Also the shot line brings in alot of water and dirt intotl the boat. On the plus side the shot line would have been a much easier installation. I hope that helps you. Chris
Hey Chris great work. Boat jobs always take more time that you think. Being a contortionist is the first prerequisite before commencing the job.😊👍 Also, where did you get the door stop for the main head door?
Cheers Peter, indeed or just get used to being upside down while crushing your stomach, that's always a fun position. The door stop I made with a clamp for putting a winter tent up, I combined it with a rubber door stopper. That worked out great 👍
Woah, first time in probably a year I get one of your videos pushed to my youtube front page. No idea why they wouldn't front your content more, it really is of interest to me. Making sure to like and all that!
Hi, thanks for the comment. My frequency of videos has gone down somewhat lately, that has a really big impact on TH-cam pushing them out. I'm OK with it though, the channel is more of a hobby than for growth or income. Thanks so much for the support though, love comments like these
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Great vid, this was a lot of work! (the edit alone lol not to mention the actual install!) Wish I had time right now to watch it all. Will save and come back. Keep it up!
As always , a great informative video. Backing plates are always a good idea in my opinion.
Absolutely, thanks 😊
Wouldn't it be better if the breaker is in an easily reachable place in case it blows off. And of course as close to the battery as possible as its supposed to protect the electrical wire, not the winch. In a tight moment that blown breaker will be in a difficult place under the bunk.
Hi Kenneth, good point with the breaker location. Could be good to have it in a better place but it takes 1 second to lift the bed also. I have fitted a 300amp fuse on the bus bar now also, no problems there. Cheers
You can get hydraulic crimpers for about 100-150€
True, I got some recently. I was using electric ones in my previous job but they are pretty pricey, awesome in tight locations though
Nice job. How do you deal with all the wet band coming in the boat ?
With the Anchormatic there is much less water than the shot line. Pretty much sits on top on the band. There is some but it just evaporates or I take a towel in the worst case
Nice work😀
Please put a proper shackle between the anchor and line.
Probably an idea, but so far so good 👍
Thank you for the very interesting video! Highly appreciated that you kept this technical diy video long and detailed to give more realistic view on different steps of the process. And as typically with all of us you were having obstacles during installation steps.
I actually went through installation process for the same anchormatic solution for my motor boat prior previous season. Still gainig experience for the use of it. Compact size and flexibility with installation place were guiding me to choose this product.
Keep up the good work with nice videos!
Hi Kimmo, glad you like the solution also and the format of the video also. I always debate about releasing something like this but if I can help someone somewhere doing the same thing its worth it to me. Cheers 🍻
Hi. Good video to check prior to my mounting of the same in a Dufour 390! Thanks. How did you find out the distance between anchor davit and the through hole + the location of the davit?
Use something thin and straight once you have mounted the davit in the location you want it. A welding rod works really well and then you can really line it up with where the hole needs to be drilled
For the location of the davit, make sure its above the water line but the location really depends on where the line needs to run on the inside of the boat to the winch. The first roller should be 30+ centimeters away for the winch. Let me know if your stuck with it.
@@SailingAurora You were super quick to answer 🙂. The distance to first roller is anyway far more, and I am quite free where to to make the hole in the transom. Therefore wondered if there are anything other that would guide, especially vertically (and other than bathing platform).
Not really to be honest,, you just have to string it all up like I did in the video and see what looks right.
1. Avoid the bathing plaform
2. Keep the anchor out of the water
3. Try and make sure the davit is level
4. When the davit is up, make sure you can tie it up there easily
5. Position the hole in line with the windlass on the inside
6. use a welding stick or similar to guage how far the hole should be above the davit
7. Measure twice, drill once :) and do it while the boat is on land
Hope this helps
@@SailingAurora Super good hints! Thanks a lot for taking the time 🙂
Hi Cris, some advise drilling A4 or A2. Keep the revolutions as low as possible and the feed as high as possible and use good cutting oil. Otherwise your going to burn your drillbits and more importantly workharden the steel which will make further drilling very difficult.
Laminating the wooden struts yuo could have made a corner rounding fillet of thickened epoxy in the corner between the wood and grp bottom.
Indeed, thanks for the tips. I learnt the hard way once drilling too fast, just hardens the metal.... really frustrating.
As for the laminate, you are right. Would have been sufficient with alot less work
I really like your channel. It's so inspiring!
After being without boat for some years, I just bought one again this winter. My boat will be in svinninge marina as yours. So maybe we will meet up there.
Hey, so sorry late to reply to this one, would be great to meet up and take a beer or something. Which brygga are you on?
The reason the epoxi hardens faster when you mix more together is because the hardening process creates heat, and the when you mix smaller batches the surface area is larger compared to the volume. This gives the epoxi more chances to cool down, which will slow the hardening process.
Good work Chris! Oh glorious sanding is always fun!😅
Interesting solution .
Thanks
👍👏
...aaaaaaand Bob's your uncle! ;-)) Dude, that was a HELLUVA work you put in there! And you're putting holes in that boat like a machine gun - totally fearless! Great watch, and good learnings! You've got some serious skills there. Doin' a fair bit of DIY myself (not marine for now, though), but need to stay away from electric and engine (at least until competent). Didn't need further editing at all, and I actually think your stuff is consumed best raw, like that...Completely captivated by your pieces, but don't worry - won't be stalking you any time soon... ;-)) (but do allow me to send a few pints down your Patreon for the entertainment) . Cheers
Thanks very much, that's a very kind comment. It was a big job indeed but I guess I could have made it alot simpler, happy with the result though. I actually ended up missing out on the post on patreon rushing around before Easter and all, I'll make sure I'll put it there. Really appreciate your support, thank you and glad you liked the video format. I'll try to do more specifically for patreon only
Very useful video 👍🏻
I'm glad you showed your mistake, that's exactly the kind of thing you want to be reminded of when looking for TH-cam instructions on how to laminate with epoxy.
Regarding the fuse placement, it is always said "close to the power source", although I think it only matters if something punctures the cable insulation before the battery and that risk is probably very small. The real risk is that you overload the winch motor and it burns and short-circuits. Then it hardly matters where the fuse are located it will release and save the cable.
Thanks for your kind comment, it was probably the most stupid mistake I made but thought I'd shown it none the less. Good thoughts on the fuse, I ended up just putting a 300amp fast blow fuse additionally on the power bar, easy job. Thanks, Chris
Hi Chris. Good work! What made you pick this winch solution over one which could be bolted on the transom, one made for a leaded line? I’m just about to procure a system my self, hence the question. Thanks.
Hi Niklas, mainly because I tried the other solution on a 388. The Båtsystem leaded line worked OKish, but the drop was not enough for the rope in the lazarret and I kept having to shake the bag to get it to grip the line again. In a windy situation this became a huge problem. Also the shot line brings in alot of water and dirt intotl the boat. On the plus side the shot line would have been a much easier installation. I hope that helps you. Chris
Hey Chris great work. Boat jobs always take more time that you think. Being a contortionist is the first prerequisite before commencing the job.😊👍
Also, where did you get the door stop for the main head door?
Cheers Peter, indeed or just get used to being upside down while crushing your stomach, that's always a fun position. The door stop I made with a clamp for putting a winter tent up, I combined it with a rubber door stopper. That worked out great 👍
Woah, first time in probably a year I get one of your videos pushed to my youtube front page. No idea why they wouldn't front your content more, it really is of interest to me. Making sure to like and all that!
Hi, thanks for the comment. My frequency of videos has gone down somewhat lately, that has a really big impact on TH-cam pushing them out. I'm OK with it though, the channel is more of a hobby than for growth or income. Thanks so much for the support though, love comments like these