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5462 Hamill Loaf

Can the transfer case be taken apart or separated from the transmission when still on the car? Can I remove the transfer case and still leave the transmission on the car?

Hey i know this video is old. But how do you replace the intake cam seals do they just come out with a flat head or do you have to take the top off the cam seals and just pull up on them?

Do you have a baseline of where the stock heads are at? Maybe an old head you could do a video on about how many turns they are stock? Engine builder loosened all mine

Bro! You seem to really know these motors! Where are you located? I have an 1606 vvel code and it went into limp mode 1500rpms. Shut it off and started back up fine with the service engine light on. It has 1606 and 1024 as permanent codes. If you’re close I’ll bring it to you to fix

mmm lucky pedals

Proud of you for deciding to try a career move, I know you’ll be a great teacher! Congrats on the new gig!

Is the dimension for the gap in reference from the inner wall for the spring gap, or are you measuring to the little collar just above it?

Not sure if you’re still active on here… but my car just started to have issues with bank 2 VVEL. Out of no where. I have to disconnect the battery for it to work properly again then maybe 40-50 miles later light comes back on an no throttle response what can it be?

Would an issue with the vvel cause a no start condition?

What type of material is the fire ring and how does it compress?? Into the gasket or does the material compress? I’ve heard using multi layer gaskets w fire rings isn’t the best seal that’s why I’m wondering what the fire ring material is??

I just got my 04 G35x trans swapped with another 04. Car goes into slip immediately when I hit the gas. Do you have any idea what this could be? Infiniti says I shouldn’t have to program this car once the transmission is replaced for these models.

I watched most of your videos... and most of anything else I could find. I installed an A2A SC kit and the heads lifted. The machine shop checked and cleaned the heads and the block was good. I meticulously put my engine back together but I spun a rod after only 1 day. It has been sitting there since July 2023---- While I wonder how I'm going to get the money to buy forged internals and do it right. I wonder if the oil pump failed or if something got caught in the pickup tube... I'm thinking it had an oil pressure issue. Why the Hell don't they put oil pressure gages on these things? I will be watching all of these videos. I wonder if it is the AMS crank pulley that threw off the natural rotational balance 🤔 I'm thinking I need to get an ATI damper.

Bro the fact that this video only has 24 likes is sad. You cover soooo much information ty sm.

Im installing the aam kit and found this series useful. because I live in the south I think I may still consider the radiator upgrade(even tho I only plan on staying around 525-600 hp range

Hey Seth great videos really helped with rebuilding my timing and calibrating vvel. But please help my car won’t start and I’ve changed everything I’ve even sent it to a shop and they can’t figure it out. Basically I have a Nissan Infiniti fx37s. It stopped starting, had camshaft sensor fault. Unplugged sensor car would start. I then replaced both sensors for new oem. Car still wouldn’t start only with the left hand bank unplugged. I then took the timing cover off, there was no sign of any problems tensioners looked good soo did chains and all sprockets was on their marks. I replaced chains tensioners guides and sprockets. I also checked the vvel calibration which was good as per your video. I also changed the intake solenoids on the timing cover. Car still would not start only with left sensor unplugged. I forgot to ad the first thing I did was change oil and filter. Anyway I’ve changed all of that and it still won’t start. If the sensor is unplugged and I start it it only revs up to 3400rpm if I plug sensor in it won’t stop, if I turn it off it won’t turn on. With sensor plugged in and code’s deleted, try to start does not generate new codes anymore only when im unplugging the sensor. Please help im really confused and frustrated at this point I can only think to change intake sprocket or power control module.

Had the P069E code. Found out eventually it was the Exhaust Valve Accuators that went bad. After they were replaced, no check engine light.

Hey there am interested in building a VQ myself, where can I get the service manual you mentioned, for specs like tolerances and such? Is it some sort of Nissan subscription ?

Was your car stuck in engine power reduced mode when you had these codes

Can anyone help me w the thread length and pitch for that bolt?

Glad I found this video immediately after spending all day replacing the pump.

Hey dude i just replaced my head gasket on my vq37vhr timing is right started up smoothly.. but the check engine light is on but i have 0 Acceleration do i need rest something ? Or any ideas why? Cheers

The browning you mentioned on the connector is very evident on mine. It looks completely burnt out, so I need to change the whole control module and the connector?

Okay question! Just picked up a 370Z with 72k miles 2009’for 9000 cash off this Guy, but I wanna do a N/A build with running forged components.. I wanted to Do eagle rods an wis pistons… can you help me in the right direction.. What would be a good direction with this. I know N/A won’t be much power gains but it’s still a cheap route than boosting for now.. Figured I running forged would save a few problems in the long run internally

I’m thinking about picking up a used 37vhr and building it in my garage. This series is going to be immensely helpful, thank you!

Super helpful video. Thank you

god bless this guy

I cant find anyone selling a short block with css. Aam has their stage 1 short block but its open deck

Hi Seth, which torque you put to those bolts?

Very good stuff dude!! Quick question motor motor has been built for a year now. I had amazing oil pressure 15-17 ibs at warm up idle Now im constidemtly at 12-10 ibs after oil warm Should look into gallary gaskets already??

How to set it back one

So mine at 16/17 psi with a supercharger should be ok with a 340 pump 1000cc injectors and cjm return set up pressure wise ?

Would a autel 808 scanner be able to do this

What would you charge to build a motor like this?

I'm getting my clutch replaced and asked my mechanic to replace this rear main seal. I didn't think to give him engine oil. Does the engine oil need to be drained for this?

I see that you’re touching the L 19 head studs. I’ve heard that it could contaminate them. Is this a myth or no?

Do u need a computer to do the reprogramming on the vvel moduel ? Or do you just disconnect the sensor and raley then key on the car for 5 sec ?

You’re a 🤡

Mine is burnt up an now my car don’t start where can I find one?

Good Morning, fantastic video, I have a built VQ37VHR Turbo that is going into limp mode due to the phase not reaching required range, the motor functioned well for 4000km, and still runs perfect when not in limp mode, then started this error, it has had the block and heads cut, fitted with Wiseco pistons and Eagle H rods, after spending over $87,000 on building the car, the company that built the motor and the car has washed their hands of it (run out of tallent) Unfortunately there is no one that I have been able to find in australia that has the knowledge required to diagnose the issue, after watching this video it makes sense to me that this is what is occurring, is there any way of further diagnosing to be sure this is the issue prior to tearing the motor down? I really appreciate your input

Just got a 2010 g37x recently. It’s throwing a code for p0300 and p0011. Car is in limp mode with SES light on. No check engine, no oil pressure light. Gallery gaskets just got replaced and car is filled with 5w30. Could it be a vvel solenoid or sensor issue ? Or could it be something bigger

Does this connect to the wires that are under the driver side wheel well liner? Any info on what that harness is called? Mine have been ruined from my tires rubbing and I’m trying to replace that harness.

Zip tie is easier

I’m getting a p0014 on my 2008 g35s can seem to figure out my problem

Up until today my car has never shut off while driving. But I'm still only getting the one code u0109. Which is simply fuel pump control module not communicating so I keep coming back to this video hoping it will fix it. Every time that I go back there and manipulate the harness it seems to start if only briefly. I'm just not seeing anything significant like you found but I'm pretty sure it was my black wire and the black and green that had the browning

Heeey i have p0300 code tested alot and run a ecutek test ans hav vtc adanaced one on 63 degree and other one is 0 sensor have been replaced and everything gets power maybe vvl ecu dead or the cam phaser ?

Awesome find! I always wondered why my bank 1 valvetrain was slightly noisier than bank 2, even with the lifter bucket clearances within spec. It would be super cool to reassemble the VVEL system, take the according measurements and confirm the theory! In regard to acquiring the 5.5° VVEL (actuator to control cam) inclination, how did you go about finding that exact measurement? With Piston 1 at TDC, and both control cams locked to the left stopper, I measured 1.633” (B2) and roughly 1.585” on (B1). I’m sure every engine has slight variances; curious how you went about landing on that 1.585” measurement. My engine only has about 37k miles and seems to be in great shape. Upgrading to 2013+ springs/retainers.

Wow people have been guessing what causes that noise for years. Can this cause a catastrophic failure?

just asking how much whp can the stock 370z 6 speed manual transmission handle before you need to get a different transmission?

So, just out of curiosity, why did they even bother with a top screw at all?