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Glenn Malkin
United Kingdom
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 15 ธ.ค. 2017
As a professional book binder based in Yorkshire in the UK, I am frequently asked about the tips and tricks I use in various aspects of bindings books. My channel is intended as a series of short videos highlighting specific aspects of bookbinding technique. I aim to add more videos over the coming months. If you have any questions about any aspect of the videos, please do leave a question or get in touch. I hope you enjoy my videos! Many thanks, Glenn Malkin, Signature Bindings
Bookbinding - Making a Sprinkled Gold Book Edge
I may be giving away one of my signature approaches here, but adding sprinkled gold leaf to decorated book edges is a favourite approach of mine. It's relatively simple to do and the effect can be stunning. It can be done on the head, tail and fore edge, though the burnishing on a rounded fore edge is a little more fiddly. The edge has been sanded to a very smooth finish and sized with a weak paste/water mix. Once dry it was decorated with acrylic ink and is now ready for the gold leaf. . .
มุมมอง: 2 108
วีดีโอ
Making a gold rubber
มุมมอง 1.3Kปีที่แล้ว
A gold rubber is used by bookbinders to remove excess gold leaf from a binding after tooling a design or title. Being slightly sticky, it lifts the excess gold without lifting the tooled gold and prevents loose flakes of gold leaf from contaminating other work in the bindery. Gold rubbers are hard to come by commercially so this video shows how I make one beginning with a crepe rubber which is ...
Bookbinding - Starting Out with Handle Letters
มุมมอง 2.1K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Many people learning bookbinding consider buying some handle letters for titling but are unsure about how to start learning to use them. Here I show a few hints and tips about how to practice with your handle letters. As with many techniques, practice really does make perfect. I never claim to be expert in tooling, but I do know the more you do it, the better you get. In this video you will see...
Bookbinding - Leather Lines
มุมมอง 1.8K2 ปีที่แล้ว
An element of many design bindings is the use of fine onlaid/inlaid leather lines. This video demonstrates how to create and position narrow strips of leather in a straightforward way using leather thinned on a Scharffix, Brockman or similar paring device. There are other approaches to doing this of course, but I find this to be reliable and effective.
Back Pared Onlays
มุมมอง 1.6K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Back-pared onlays are a favourite technique of mine when working on leather design bindings. It produces a flat leather surface rather than a raised onlay and is especially great if the onlay is to be positioned over a joint or at a turn in.
Paste Polishing
มุมมอง 1.6K2 ปีที่แล้ว
When working on large Victorian Family Bibles, I use a paste wash to polish the leather rather than a wax or other polish which I find can be a bit greasy or unsatisfactory in some other way. This is a simple and effective method which I use on both the boards and the spine. If I am re-dying the leather, the paste wash is applied directly after the leather has been dyed. PLEASE NOTE: this metho...
Bookbinding - Carbon Tooling
มุมมอง 1.9K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Tooling with carbon is an old technique used to create designs or lettering on a book cover in black rather than traditional gold. Originally this was done by collecting soot from a candle on the brass hand tool and applying it to the binding. Some binders still do it this way, but an alternative and perhaps more straightforward method is to use old carbon paper. Here I show the basics of how t...
Bookbinding - Dealing with Warped Boards
มุมมอง 4.6K3 ปีที่แล้ว
It is quite common, when making a book, to find that your boards have warped as a result of materials contracting when drying. This can be particularly evident with full leather bindings. Here I show you how to compensate for warped boards by adding linings to the inside and I discuss the considerations when doing this. (It also demonstrates why grain direction can be critical!)
Bookbinding - Edge Decoration
มุมมอง 4.3K3 ปีที่แล้ว
One of the factors that can make a book particularly special is suitable edge decoration, and this is a feature of many design bindings. Whilst gilding a book edge is a traditional approach, more contemporary tastes give us the opportunity to be more creative. Here I demonstrate the process of decorating a book edge with acrylic paint, though there are of course many alternative approaches and ...
Bookbinding - Cutting Leather Onlays
มุมมอง 2.1K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Leather onlays can be one of the most effective ways of decorating a leather binding, whether as a direct onlay after the book is covered, or as a back-pared onlay before the leather goes on to the book. However, cutting out detailed or complex designs in thin leather can be awkward. This simple method of cutting out onlays was first shown to me by Paul Delrue, and it is an approach I use frequ...
Bookbinding - The Trouble with Grain
มุมมอง 2K4 ปีที่แล้ว
One of the most fundamental things a new bookbinder learns is the importance of grain direction of paper and other materials. Get this wrong and there can be all sorts of problems with warping boards or cockled paper for example. This video looks at what can happen if a book is produced with the paper grain going the wrong way.
Bookbinding - Over-sewing Shoulders
มุมมอง 2.3K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Many old Bibles and other large books may benefit from over-sewing (or over-casting) the shoulders when being repaired or re-bound. This technique strengthens the shoulder area, securing the first few sections as well as potentially securing the cloth joint and, in this case, the board attachment cloth. This may not be appropriate practise in a conservation sense, and I would be unlikely to use...
Bookbinding - Using a Ploughing Aid
มุมมอง 3.8K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Trimming the edges of a book using a plough is an ancient yet effective technique, but getting the book positioned correctly in the laying press so the cut is accurate can be a frustrating part of the process. A ploughing aid can help this by setting up the position of the book out of the press and guaranteeing an accurate cut. As far as I know no-one produces these commercially (yet), but they...
Bookbinding - Sewing Two On
มุมมอง 1.9K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Sewing a book normally when you have a lot of sections can result in excessive swell which can make shaping the spine correctly problematic. The method of sewing 'two-on' helps reduce the swell by reducing the amount of thread required.
Bookbinding - Leather Jointed Endpapers
มุมมอง 3.7K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Bookbinders can incorporate leather jointed endpapers into books as a decorative element, but they also separate the free endpaper from the pastedown. This opens up a number of possibilities in design and materials, for example having decorative doublures on the inside of the boards. There are many ways to make a leather jointed endpaper - this is just one. Hopefully you will be able to adapt t...
Bookbinding: Cleaning plastic-glued book spines
มุมมอง 3.2K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Bookbinding: Cleaning plastic-glued book spines
Bookbinding - How to make neat Leather Corners
มุมมอง 23K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Bookbinding - How to make neat Leather Corners
Bookbinding - Using a Knocking Down Iron
มุมมอง 1.3K4 ปีที่แล้ว
Bookbinding - Using a Knocking Down Iron
Hi Glenn. Thank you so much for all the videos you make! I learn so much. Could you make a video on how to gild with gold on a rounded foredge? I am not able to find any sources on this topic. Thank you in advance for reading this <3
Hi - glad you find my videos helpful! Solid edge gilding is not something I often do so I am not practiced enough to make a decent video on this I'm afraid. But making a sprinkled gold edge on the rounded fore edge of a book is the same process as in this video - the only difference being that, when sanding, I hold the Abranet around a tube or dowel which is very slightly more curved than the fore edge. I then just sand in the same way as with the flat edges until extremely smooth. The adhesive and gold leaf is then applied in the same way as shown. Hope that helps!
@@bookbindingtips Thank you so much for your response, very much appreciated! Will try making a sprinkled foredge to start with using your method! Have a lovely day :D
Nice thx. I need some tips for positioning my design and patterns.
oh goodness! wish i had seen this method years ago.
Chaffinch singing in the background...
I'll take your word for that!! :-)
Great little video however having carefully explained by you would not oversee you then completely fail to say or explain what you did sew! It’s a good idea but useless unless explained pity
Hi - thanks for watching. As I mentioned right at the beginning of the video, this technique is primarily used on larger books such as family Bibles etc.
😅this is such a good method! Thank you.
This is so helpful, thank you! I've been messing around trying to get all the extra material on mt corners flat as possible and it is so frustrating
thank you Glen
Great video, thank you. Your knives are so sharp! Can you do a video on knife sharpening?
Glad you liked it! Yes, sharp knives are really important for bookbinding when using leather. Sharpening is a bit of a skill that develops over time and I have changed my approach on several occasions. I may do a video at some point, but meanwhile there is a good on on DAS Bookbinding's TH-cam channel: th-cam.com/video/rikTKtdF984/w-d-xo.html Hope that helps!
@@bookbindingtips Thanks very much:) DAS is great too. I will check it out.
Very helpful video. I really can make this jig. By the way what red cloth did you use in this video?
Hi - the cloth I used was a random piece of paper-backed book cloth from my box of offcuts, so I couldn't tell you exactly what it was I'm afraid. I would probably have bought it originally from Ratchfords in the UK however.
Thank you Glenn, this video is extremely helpful to me. Can you please tell me: instead of using an French paring knife to pare down the back of the onlay, could one use a Scharffix?
Hi - I think it would be risky to use a scharffix and difficult if the onlay is in a large piece of leather. However, you could also sand it instead of using a knife, perhaps using something like a coarse 80 grit Abranet. It will take some time to get flat, but it certainly can be done if you are not comfortable using a paring knife.
@@bookbindingtips thanks Glenn, very helpful.
the blue tape is paper or laminated paper or other material ? thanks and congratulations for the excellent work !
Hi! Sorry, I'm not sure which blue tape you are referring to? Perhaps you mean the silicon release paper used to protect the pages beneath when pasting. This is just a waterproof paper which won't stick to the pages, but you can also use acetate or other materials for this.
@@bookbindingtips hi, I mean the blue roll from which the back covering of the book is obtained and on which the title of the book is then applied..!
@@mariomoretti9059 I think you must be looking at a different video - there is no blue roll here and we don't look at the covering or titling of the book at all. . .
Hi !! This is a very interesting video - it popped up when I researched how to tape tears in an old bible. For those of us who are less skilled, is there a particular brand of tape you recommend ?? For an 1870s family bible, it needs TLC, from an art museum. Thank you.
Hi and thank you. You should never use a standard sticky tape (such as Scotch tape or Sellotape) to repair pages because it will fail over time, the plastic carrier may lift and the adhesive browns and can soak irepairably into the paper. There is a conservation tape called Filmoplast P paper repair tape which is much better in the long term and not too expensive, though using good quality Japanese tissue and past as I have shown in my video is by far the best solution in most cases. Hope that helps!
@@bookbindingtips Hi ! Thank you very much for your kind help. I will put the Filmoplast P paper repair tape in my Amazon cart !! I look forward to watching more of your repair videos.
Awesome!! Question Though my friend 🤔🙆🏻♂️isss the leather tab/hinge on between the hand made paper folio and the marbled paper over it? I appreciate your time either way. God bless
Hi - you could certainly do it that way, but in this case the leather was attached to the back of the endpaper, glued to the narrow edge of the marbled paper that was folded around onto the back of the endpaper. I chose this approach because I wanted to sew through the folded endpaper, the marbled paper and the leather, to make very strong sewing points.
Sorry for the late “THANK YOU” brother I am just seeing your response ! Thank you for your time friend and God bless you buddy !!
@@bookbindingtipsand I had the idea last (while I’m trying different techniques for edge lining bibles for rebinds) doing the same thing kind of and having a NARROW/THIN LEATHER TAB that’s functional, reliable & aesthetically pleasing without that big LAAB OF TAB haha in most rebinds ! So thanks again brother
Skiving the leather is essential for achieving a nice corner.
Not necessarily using this method - it can be done with full thickness goat leather (ie: 0.7mm or so) and still look nice and neat but of course it depend how delicate you want the board edges to be. If you want nice thin edges to the boards then the leather does indeed need to be thinned in that area.
Could you be specific about your paste? What is the brand, type? What is it made of? Is it specific enough that you would have to order it from a specific store?
I buy my paste pre-prepared from a bookbinding supplier in the UK - usually Hewits. But it is basically a wheat starch paste. You can also get very good rice starch pastes. Some are in powder form, some you have to cook, some already made up and it is down mainly to personal preference which you would use.
It took me a day or two to build enough confidence to move forward with the corners. I'm working with 2 mil boards and did exactly as you demonstrated, yet my flaps still overlap each other. Is this normal? Initially, I noticed there was going to be a significant about amount of overlapping so I trimmed my faux leather fabric down to 2 mil instead of 3 mil. It reduced the overlapping, however there's still overlapping. Hopefully that 1 mil of trimmed fabric did not render my corners inferior. The corners required some burnishing and could've been better tbh.
Hi - sorry I have only just seen your message! Yes, this method is only really suitable for thinner materials like cloth and paper. Leather and other thicker materials do bring extra problems - you may like to take a look at my video on one method how to make neat leather corners.
500th Like! 🎉🥳
Thanks for the great instruction.
So does this mean that this was bound using paper thats long grain parallel to the spine instead of short grain?
Amazing
Pretty crazy solution. I'd like to think there are other ways to fix warped boards, as a solution to restoring a old book, or a finished book that already has end papers. Plus if you do a bunch of layers isn't the paste down going to look weird?
it's not a sudden solution, this is kind of a principle - to paste a compensate sheet that is needed also to align with thickness of leather wraps. Otherwise the endpapers will be noticeably deformed (sure, this is only about binding new books)
What would have prevented this in the first place--leaving to dry longer, more weight, or different materials needed?
You could make board by laminating paper and thin millboard together and the makes it quite stiff. If there is an extra piece of paper on the inside of the board it will pull it inwards a little so this will counter the pull of the leather to some extent. But you almost always have to correct warp a little after the leather has been secured.
Diese Art von Verwerfung führe ich auf eine falsche Faser Laufrichtung zurück… aber egal wie , man könnte es mit einem oder zwei zusätzliche Papiere in der innen Seite ausgleichen
I personally just glue closed tears, and would have in that second case too. I think glue would look better than that tape.
I would never recommend using tape. In the video I am using strips of Japanese paper secured using wheat starch paste. And yes, sometimes the tear does lend itself to re-securing using paste without the need for additional support.
Love your videos ! Great Instruction !
This is very helpful, thank you so much!
This is so helpful! thank you so much!
Thank you for the tip!
Thanks a lot for this video. Exactly what I needed for a new project.
This is beautiful! Can I know what paste you used for the sizing?
The paste is just standard wheat starch paste, though very diluted.
@@bookbindingtips Thank you for writing back. I tried using cornstarch and it peeled off once dried and left my surface bumpy. Perhaps I should work on the consistency even with wheat.
Yes, it should be very watery so it soaks in to the surface (but don't apply too much!)
@@bookbindingtips I make Fore-edge paintings on the edges before gilding. So will this bleed the Watercolour paints into the book if I apply it on top?
I would apply the size before doing the edge painting. It is intended just to seal the fibres of the paper, though it isn't always necessary - depends on the paper.
That's just lovely, thanks for posting!
Excellent video, what Japanese paper reference do you use? Thank you
Thank you for sharing!
Thank you for very good video.
Thank you for sharing this tecnique
Wow, that's beautiful! Thank you for showing all the steps.
wow
I am an absolutely amateur bookbinder but I guess someone could use also bee wax in this same way you used it. There is a therapeutic(handmade) skin cream made of virgin oil and bee wax that could be used too, I suppose. Am I right? Anyway thank you very much for the lesson as paste is a traditional, safe easy and handy material (and a loved one too!)
Τhank you! So nice!
👇 P R O M O S M
Thank you Glen, Great video, you really see the effect when the light catches the gold.
Thank you! I hadn't thought about using a hair dryer. Do you reinforce the spine any further by making cross-cuts and gluing cords into the cuts across the spine? I'm hoping to attempt it on a glued Bible and see if the results are very flexible.
I’m fixing to do that very thing I’ll let ya know haha
@@rcb1717 post a video!!!
What a wonderful adornment! Your simple steps to this stunning finish should make this required watching! Thank you!
Beautiful! I love the look of the sprinkled gold edge. One question. Why do you sprinkle the weak adhesive on the edge, rather than brushing the adhesive over the entire edge? I have seen DAS do this same technique and he puts the adhesive over the entire edge rather than doing the sprinkling. Do you lose more gold by sprinkling? Is there an advantage to sprinkling the adhesive? Thanks. I love your videos. They are very informative.
Hi David, I find that by sprinkling the adhesive I get a more even effect. If the glue is brushed all over then there is a risk you may get larger clumps of gold adhering to the edge, and I'm not sure that I want the areas in between the gold to have a coating of PVA. But then there is always more than one way to do things . . .😊
Thank you so much for saving me over $10.00!
Great tutorial thanks.
thanks
sent this on to my son who is studying to be a bookbinder at North Bennet Street School in Boston. Hey, he is looking for an internship this summer if you or any of your friends that work with books will be needing an intern or help.!!!!!He is very focused and wow the books!!!!!
Thank you for this little gem …so you store it in a closed jar or just out in the air ?
I keep it in an airtight jar to stop it drying out too much.
Thank you, for another wonderful, and most useful video. Just last year I looked for instructions to make one and couldn't find it. Thanks