Thanks for this, it has solved what looked like a major problem for me. Using this approach I can tool a design avoiding the cost of having an expensive block made for what would have been a one-off use.
Thank you for this. It's really helpful. I've done some tooling before, with foil and heated tools (we also use a little stove), but your template idea is new and very useful!
Simple solution to the template, genius actually, going to try this. Also hoping that I can get a screwdriver or something not make a flatter stylus, I have a few ball stylus but nothing flatter
Glenn você merece um 10+!! Suas dicas, tanto dos templates, como do fogão elétrico para aquecer os ferros de douração foram maravilhosas!! Virei fã. Muitíssimo obrigada!!
Thanks very much Glenn! I stumbled upon the concept of the hinged cardboard a while ago and it made the world of difference! I don't suppose that you (or somebody else) could be persuaded to do a video on how to make the brass stylus, could you? I was given one last year, but am tempted to try and make another but don't really know where to start. Does one use sandpaper, or does it require something else?
Hi - I got mine pretty much pre-made from another binder, but i did change the shape a little myself. Brass is quite soft so it is easy to shape using small metal files and wet & dry paper or similar. If you are starting out with a hefty tool to reduce down, a grinding wheel might speed things up a bit. The basic shape need to be a bit like a flat screwdriver, but then rounding the end and removing any sharpness. The thickness at the tip will determine how wide your lines are of course. Hope that helps!
What is a handle letter? I'm not in the UK but Germany so I never heard of something like this and google is no help at all it just shows me letter opener
A handle letter is the name given to individual brass letters mounted on to wooden handles. They are produced by companies such as bookbindesigns.co.uk.
Great video, Glenn. Any advice about how top get into spine labels? The single electric hob is superb idea and I have seen them on eBay, but the letters must be expensive, as well as the device for holding them in place. My books seem unfinished without labels and I would really like to be able to get into this without re-mortgaging!
Thanks Glenn. Appreciate you taking the time to upload these videos. I have watched the “Men in Sheds” video different times and am glad to see you’ve decided to do them more often. I notice you’ve a lovely cast iron backing press (floor standing) - any chance you’d be willing to sell? Or, would you know where I could get one?
That press is a great item! I found it on e-bay a few years ago and I find it very useful. The only place I can suggest is to contact Les at Homeward Bound to see if he has one in stock. (homewardbound@btconnect.com)
Thank you for sharing this, this has been something I've struggled with for a while. Is there a particular kind/brand of heat transfer foil you would recommend? I've had difficulty in the past, but it may be that I didn't have the tool hot enough.
Hi Christine - foils do vary and some are more suitable for leather than others. They also have differing adhesive temperatures so, if you already have some, try different temperatures and also different dwell times. Sometimes you have to work the tool quite slowly. When buying foil let the supplier know what you will be using it for and they should be able to advise.
Can't say I have really tried I'm afraid, but if you are going to the lengths of using real gold leaf, why wouldn't you also use real leather? The main problem I could see is that if the faux leather has a plastic coating, the glair (used as a heat sensitive adhesive) may not coat it evenly and so the leaf would not stick properly. Always worth a try though I suppose.
Hi Tony - the foil is generally pretty durable but some foils are better than others because they are produced for different purposes. If buying new, just tell the manufacturer what you are foiling onto - leather, cloth paper, etc. If you have got it second hand, just try it and see! Also some materials such as chrome tanned leather don't take it very well. The tooling creates a recess into which the foil is adhered so that also protects the foil from rubbing, but the reality is that it is actually quite hard to remove unless you scrape it with a scalpel blade for example.
I’ve not done any tooling yet, but was wondering if this from Ratchford’s covers both the heating and the stylus requirements? ratchford.co.uk/product/electric-tooling-iron-kit-electric-tooling-iron-with-36-heads/ Now, from your video, I have a better idea of what I might do with it!!
Pretty much it is the same thing. The key though is the shape of the tip you use - many of the ones supplied aren't really much use in my opinion. I have one of these electric ones and am not too keen on the shape of the handle as the heat shield gets in the way of my fingers. However, I have seen some good results with these and they certainly work. I believe they are actually manufactured as pyrography tools.
Thanks Glenn - sounds like I should try your version first then! Any suggestions on what to type into Ebay to get a tool to turn into a stylus? (Handle letter, which I think is what you said, didn’t get me anything helpful!). Thanks again!
The hinged guide is brilliant.
Thank you for sharing
There are not many tutorials about affordable alternatives to traditional tooling!
Nice thx. I need some tips for positioning my design and patterns.
Thanks for this, it has solved what looked like a major problem for me. Using this approach I can tool a design avoiding the cost of having an expensive block made for what would have been a one-off use.
That hinged template is genius.
I know - I can't remember who showed me that method, but it makes life so much easier!!
Thank you for this. It's really helpful. I've done some tooling before, with foil and heated tools (we also use a little stove), but your template idea is new and very useful!
Simple solution to the template, genius actually, going to try this. Also hoping that I can get a screwdriver or something not make a flatter stylus, I have a few ball stylus but nothing flatter
Glenn você merece um 10+!! Suas dicas, tanto dos templates, como do fogão elétrico para aquecer os ferros de douração foram maravilhosas!! Virei fã. Muitíssimo obrigada!!
Very simple and ingenious method!! Thank you a lot!!
😅this is such a good method! Thank you.
this is perfect. thanks a lot Glenn
Really cook hack! Thanks for sharing 👍 🙌💫
That was great thanks Glenn
Thank you for sharing yours knowledge.
You are welcome!
Thank you so much!! This has been really helpful! :D
Thanks very much Glenn! I stumbled upon the concept of the hinged cardboard a while ago and it made the world of difference! I don't suppose that you (or somebody else) could be persuaded to do a video on how to make the brass stylus, could you? I was given one last year, but am tempted to try and make another but don't really know where to start. Does one use sandpaper, or does it require something else?
Hi - I got mine pretty much pre-made from another binder, but i did change the shape a little myself. Brass is quite soft so it is easy to shape using small metal files and wet & dry paper or similar. If you are starting out with a hefty tool to reduce down, a grinding wheel might speed things up a bit. The basic shape need to be a bit like a flat screwdriver, but then rounding the end and removing any sharpness. The thickness at the tip will determine how wide your lines are of course. Hope that helps!
@@bookbindingtips Thank you, that's helpful. I'll have to pluck up the courage and try!
What is a handle letter? I'm not in the UK but Germany so I never heard of something like this and google is no help at all it just shows me letter opener
A handle letter is the name given to individual brass letters mounted on to wooden handles. They are produced by companies such as bookbindesigns.co.uk.
Great video, Glenn. Any advice about how top get into spine labels? The single electric hob is superb idea and I have seen them on eBay, but the letters must be expensive, as well as the device for holding them in place. My books seem unfinished without labels and I would really like to be able to get into this without re-mortgaging!
Thanks Glenn. Appreciate you taking the time to upload these videos. I have watched the “Men in Sheds” video different times and am glad to see you’ve decided to do them more often. I notice you’ve a lovely cast iron backing press (floor standing) - any chance you’d be willing to sell? Or, would you know where I could get one?
That press is a great item! I found it on e-bay a few years ago and I find it very useful. The only place I can suggest is to contact Les at Homeward Bound to see if he has one in stock. (homewardbound@btconnect.com)
Thanks Glenn, I’ve tried Les a couple of times without success. The last time I rang him he had sold one the day before!!
Thank you for sharing this, this has been something I've struggled with for a while. Is there a particular kind/brand of heat transfer foil you would recommend? I've had difficulty in the past, but it may be that I didn't have the tool hot enough.
Hi Christine - foils do vary and some are more suitable for leather than others. They also have differing adhesive temperatures so, if you already have some, try different temperatures and also different dwell times. Sometimes you have to work the tool quite slowly. When buying foil let the supplier know what you will be using it for and they should be able to advise.
Thanks for making this video:) Have you ever successfully used real gold leaf (23k) on faux leather?
Can't say I have really tried I'm afraid, but if you are going to the lengths of using real gold leaf, why wouldn't you also use real leather? The main problem I could see is that if the faux leather has a plastic coating, the glair (used as a heat sensitive adhesive) may not coat it evenly and so the leaf would not stick properly. Always worth a try though I suppose.
How durable is the foil?
Hi Tony - the foil is generally pretty durable but some foils are better than others because they are produced for different purposes. If buying new, just tell the manufacturer what you are foiling onto - leather, cloth paper, etc. If you have got it second hand, just try it and see! Also some materials such as chrome tanned leather don't take it very well. The tooling creates a recess into which the foil is adhered so that also protects the foil from rubbing, but the reality is that it is actually quite hard to remove unless you scrape it with a scalpel blade for example.
I’ve not done any tooling yet, but was wondering if this from Ratchford’s covers both the heating and the stylus requirements?
ratchford.co.uk/product/electric-tooling-iron-kit-electric-tooling-iron-with-36-heads/
Now, from your video, I have a better idea of what I might do with it!!
Pretty much it is the same thing. The key though is the shape of the tip you use - many of the ones supplied aren't really much use in my opinion. I have one of these electric ones and am not too keen on the shape of the handle as the heat shield gets in the way of my fingers. However, I have seen some good results with these and they certainly work. I believe they are actually manufactured as pyrography tools.
Thanks Glenn - sounds like I should try your version first then! Any suggestions on what to type into Ebay to get a tool to turn into a stylus? (Handle letter, which I think is what you said, didn’t get me anything helpful!). Thanks again!
Martin - e-mail me your details if you are in the UK and I will send you a suitable old handle letter. glenn@signaturebindings.co.uk.
This is a very clever proses, thank you for sharing!
You're welcome!