Very useful Glenn, thank you. I did a leather binding course some years ago, but we were taught a cruder method of cornering that I've never been happy with.
This video is perfect for me! I'm not binding a book but a series of padded inserts for cubbies on a pair of night stands all the woodworking channels use 6mm wooden board and staples limited space means I need to use foam and card.
Thank you very much! I want to turn fixed buckram hardcover books into half leather covers or cases... I'm having to piece together the instructions as, for example, DAS' example had the leather glued to the edge binding, whereas I want it not to be. I know how to make a tube-style full leather soft cover for bibles with bumpers so between that and your corners I suppose it's coming together! I just.... if I'm going to cut the failing buckram hardcover off a favorite book, instead of just covering the spine with cloth I'd like to do them more nicely, but I don't want to get into full leather hardback yet, with its potential warping in my lining isn't a perfect match.
Not necessarily using this method - it can be done with full thickness goat leather (ie: 0.7mm or so) and still look nice and neat but of course it depend how delicate you want the board edges to be. If you want nice thin edges to the boards then the leather does indeed need to be thinned in that area.
Thank you, you explain this process so well. I am about to make a travel journal with some recycled leather from my late husband's work diary. It will be for our grandson so a special project. I was struggling with the corners. With most of my projects in cardmaking I round the corners, do you thinks the square corner would be easier with leather? 🙂🇦🇺
Definitely - you can do rounded corners using various pleating techniques but it is very tricky to get right. Square corners are much more straightforward!
Hi Glen Please could you let me know the name of the knife you used to cut at 30 degree I need to purchase one. Great demonstration you make it look very easy, thank you.
Hi Jim - i would cut the corners after the leather is applied to the spine and boards but before turning in, otherwise it can be a bit awkward to get a straight cut. Then usually I apply a bit more paste and turn in the head and tail and then finally the fore edges. The paste then gives you enough time to work each corner and make it neat.
oh goodness! wish i had seen this method years ago.
Very useful Glenn, thank you. I did a leather binding course some years ago, but we were taught a cruder method of cornering that I've never been happy with.
This is so helpful, thank you! I've been messing around trying to get all the extra material on mt corners flat as possible and it is so frustrating
This video is perfect for me! I'm not binding a book but a series of padded inserts for cubbies on a pair of night stands all the woodworking channels use 6mm wooden board and staples limited space means I need to use foam and card.
Great stuff Glenn! Will definitely use this on my next leather book.
Thanks very much for sharing this. I was struggling to get the corners to not have the bump.
Yes it hello a lot ! Thank you so much.
Thank you for this clear and instructive video!
You're very welcome!
Thank you very much! I want to turn fixed buckram hardcover books into half leather covers or cases... I'm having to piece together the instructions as, for example, DAS' example had the leather glued to the edge binding, whereas I want it not to be. I know how to make a tube-style full leather soft cover for bibles with bumpers so between that and your corners I suppose it's coming together! I just.... if I'm going to cut the failing buckram hardcover off a favorite book, instead of just covering the spine with cloth I'd like to do them more nicely, but I don't want to get into full leather hardback yet, with its potential warping in my lining isn't a perfect match.
thank you good Sir
This is very helpful, thank you so much!
Maravilhosa dica!! Você é o Macgyver da encadernação.
Thank you! I'm glad you found it useful!
Thank you for the tip!
Fantastic and very clear demonstration! Many thanks
Glad you enjoyed it!
Skiving the leather is essential for achieving a nice corner.
Not necessarily using this method - it can be done with full thickness goat leather (ie: 0.7mm or so) and still look nice and neat but of course it depend how delicate you want the board edges to be. If you want nice thin edges to the boards then the leather does indeed need to be thinned in that area.
Thank you, you explain this process so well. I am about to make a travel journal with some recycled leather from my late husband's work diary. It will be for our grandson so a special project. I was struggling with the corners. With most of my projects in cardmaking I round the corners, do you thinks the square corner would be easier with leather? 🙂🇦🇺
Definitely - you can do rounded corners using various pleating techniques but it is very tricky to get right. Square corners are much more straightforward!
Hi Glen
Please could you let me know the name of the knife you used to cut at 30 degree I need to purchase one. Great demonstration you make it look very easy, thank you.
Hi Zara - that is just a standard English paring knife. It should be VERY sharp when using it.
Τhank you very much.
You are welcome!
Many thanks for this tip - at what stage of a full leather covering do you suggest this is done? Before the head and tail are turned in ? Thanks Jim
Hi Jim - i would cut the corners after the leather is applied to the spine and boards but before turning in, otherwise it can be a bit awkward to get a straight cut. Then usually I apply a bit more paste and turn in the head and tail and then finally the fore edges. The paste then gives you enough time to work each corner and make it neat.
wow