Thanks for making such helpful videos. Do you have one on sharpening your knife ? I’d love to learn what strop to buy and how to use it. Thanks for your help.
I used a similar technique when I first started out before I got a plough. I used the blade from a hand plane because like you said it is only single beveled. As well, I could use it straight on my lying press without worrying about a handle getting in the way like if I had used a chisel or paring knife. I actually still use it to trim off the last little rounded and backed part that is in line with the boards when trimming the head and tails.
Thank you... I keep running out of money for things, needed a knife... suddenly "ding" the lightbulb went on: I have several wood shavers with high quality, hardened, high carbon blades in them (single bevel)! I could even make a special handle oriented for the purpose.
Thanks for the video. Do you ever trim the fore-edge after backing by using trindles? If so I’d appreciate a video of how you do it. I’ve tried a number of times and not been happy with the results. All the best. Darryn
Hi Darryn - no, I've never tried it and only really seen it in books. Its an old technique so I am sure it works and it could be a useful technique in some situations. I tend to trim whilst in the flat back state and then after rounding I sand down any irregularities or steps on the fore edge.
Darryn, here's a video I found a while back on it. I've done it myself. I made some trindles out of flat steel bar stock with my angle grinder and a cutting wheel. It's a fun technique and watching the curve come back when you take the trindles out and close the book is pretty cool. th-cam.com/video/0tMYsYqBLA8/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for this video, Glenn. Very useful. Watching experienced people is always worthwhile as they perhaps throw in bits of simple, and once you have heard it perhaps obvious, advice which beginners like me haven't hit upon at all. Here, for example, how to use double-sided tape to hold the book block in place. I have been struggling to find a way to do that for a while! What do you have fixed on the strop to sharpen the knife? I have some small, diamond-coated metal plates which I use. They work, but are tiring to hold and I think I would prefer somethign bigger. Phillip
Hi Phillip - glad you found it useful! The tip about the double sided tape was passed onto me by another binder and it simplified things so much. Just remember to add waste sheets! My strop has some kind wet and dry on one side for rough stropping and then the suede side of leather on the other side which has a fine abrasive rubbing compound on it for fine stropping. Another binder friend made it for me!
Hi Glenn, great video. What would you do for the top and bottom edge if you weren't rounding the text block? I'm working on a block too thin for rounding but still has enough swell that it can't be clamped evenly.
Hi Mark - good question. There are two options really if you are not able to round the spine. The first is to take a couple of pieces of suitable thickness greyboard and chamfer along one edge of each. The chamfers are then positioned against the spine edge and so allows the block to be clamped tightly whilst allowing for the swell. The other option is to insert pieces of paper in the centre of each section, effectively compensating for the thickness of the thread. Hope that helps!
So what can someone use who can not afford to buy a leather knife like that? Looking for paring knifes I just find kitchen knifes nothing like the one in the video
Thank you for the video! I love the use of double sided tape! Such a simple idea, yet it yields accuracy and time savings.
Thanks again. -Jim
Thanks for making such helpful videos. Do you have one on sharpening your knife ? I’d love to learn what strop to buy and how to use it. Thanks for your help.
I used a similar technique when I first started out before I got a plough. I used the blade from a hand plane because like you said it is only single beveled. As well, I could use it straight on my lying press without worrying about a handle getting in the way like if I had used a chisel or paring knife. I actually still use it to trim off the last little rounded and backed part that is in line with the boards when trimming the head and tails.
Thank you... I keep running out of money for things, needed a knife... suddenly "ding" the lightbulb went on: I have several wood shavers with high quality, hardened, high carbon blades in them (single bevel)! I could even make a special handle oriented for the purpose.
Great job.
Thanks for the video. Do you ever trim the fore-edge after backing by using trindles? If so I’d appreciate a video of how you do it. I’ve tried a number of times and not been happy with the results. All the best. Darryn
Hi Darryn - no, I've never tried it and only really seen it in books. Its an old technique so I am sure it works and it could be a useful technique in some situations. I tend to trim whilst in the flat back state and then after rounding I sand down any irregularities or steps on the fore edge.
Darryn, here's a video I found a while back on it. I've done it myself. I made some trindles out of flat steel bar stock with my angle grinder and a cutting wheel. It's a fun technique and watching the curve come back when you take the trindles out and close the book is pretty cool.
th-cam.com/video/0tMYsYqBLA8/w-d-xo.html
Good vare good thankyou
For thes video
Im abdul iraq bagdhad
Πάρα πολύ ωραίο! ! ! Ευχαριστώ και πάλι.
You're welcome!
Thank you for this video, Glenn. Very useful. Watching experienced people is always worthwhile as they perhaps throw in bits of simple, and once you have heard it perhaps obvious, advice which beginners like me haven't hit upon at all. Here, for example, how to use double-sided tape to hold the book block in place. I have been struggling to find a way to do that for a while!
What do you have fixed on the strop to sharpen the knife? I have some small, diamond-coated metal plates which I use. They work, but are tiring to hold and I think I would prefer somethign bigger.
Phillip
Hi Phillip - glad you found it useful! The tip about the double sided tape was passed onto me by another binder and it simplified things so much. Just remember to add waste sheets! My strop has some kind wet and dry on one side for rough stropping and then the suede side of leather on the other side which has a fine abrasive rubbing compound on it for fine stropping. Another binder friend made it for me!
Hi thank you for thes videoi Im book binding
Abdul iraq bagdhad🌹🌹🌹
Glad you find them of interest!
Hi Glenn, great video. What would you do for the top and bottom edge if you weren't rounding the text block? I'm working on a block too thin for rounding but still has enough swell that it can't be clamped evenly.
Hi Mark - good question. There are two options really if you are not able to round the spine. The first is to take a couple of pieces of suitable thickness greyboard and chamfer along one edge of each. The chamfers are then positioned against the spine edge and so allows the block to be clamped tightly whilst allowing for the swell. The other option is to insert pieces of paper in the centre of each section, effectively compensating for the thickness of the thread. Hope that helps!
So what can someone use who can not afford to buy a leather knife like that? Looking for paring knifes I just find kitchen knifes nothing like the one in the video
You can buy paring knives from bookbinding suppliers, but it is possible to use a very sharp wood chisel.