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@@MrMK211516 4 lug has more wheel options. Unless you are going to track it or do sustained brake-accelerate-brake driving the brakes are just fine. Throw some quality vented rotors, slotted if available/ and some aggressive high friction pads on the front. The rear brakes hardly do much of the stopping as weight transfers to front under braking. Drums stop just fine. They struggle after sustained braking builds excessive heat. That is when the discs shine. But rear drum brakes were fine even for autocross thing. Discs all around are better sure. Is it worth all the trouble converting for a street car Cobalt? Not in my opinion. If you were going to do track days then absolutely.

@@fabricobbletech thanks for replying I was already thinking I'd be okay. Thanks again.

Thanks

Lasts just fine. Degradation is not the issue. Getting a uniform fill is the hard part.

No. It's an AEM E85 pump. I'll have to look back see what suze

Lmao, Kansas! Glad I could help

I looked that carb up and found pictures on ebay post. Looks like there's a leg on the corner directly opposite the corner with vacuum canister for secondary.

thx @@fabricobbletech ... found it .. different bolt ... actually, not a bolt but a nut that bolts on a stud mounted on the manifold body ....lower, much lower than the four other bolts at the top, to the right & front of the main carb body, low, on a eyelet ...the carb schematics i have from Mikuni for the 32-35DIDTA carb don't even show any of the installation bolts/nuts, best guess location is under the EGR valve ....

Gas

When are you checking the chain slack? The camshaft will naturally cam over and snap to positions where loabs are less engaged with valve spring. With the engine off there could be positions that allow slack on tension side. The tensioner only engages with minor spring tension with engine off. Pretty sure it utilizes engine oil pressure to aid tensioner when running. If chain is slapping around making noise I would be concerned.

awesome, thx@@fabricobbletech , makes sense .. update: ...rotated the crankshaft CW manually ... the slack on the driver side almost immediately went away ... two complete turns ...no bad links or bad chain rods ... one new question above

thx@@fabricobbletech ... update: rotated the crank manually, slack disappears ...seems ok ... all chain links look ok, no slack or broken pins ...

I hope to sometime. It's really hard to find time honestly! Even harder to find someone with time to help me take video

Had to have one custom made by driveshaft shop

What the heck is that? Lol

Not at the moment. I use it all the time!

Radiator is out. Core support has to be cut. Didn't want to cut it but Definitely would have been way easier

This truck was under 80hp. Probably under 50hp now lol.

Certain parts are definitely hard to find. If you have something specific you see that I sourced, I can look back and try to provide information where I got it. Pretty sure I ordered this dash cover off Amazon. But I've got a number of other parts from ebay, rockauto, and private sellers. Still to this day would love to source a quality windshield gasket. I ordered one from Thailand. After 2 months in the sun it's all cracked and complete garbage. Would been better off leaving in the original

It could generate electricity but at the expense added fuel cost from all the extra drag. Also wear out trailer tires for same reason. No such thing as free energy!

Thanks!

Better than a hot air intake

I'm definitely no expert on them. I'll admit, information was actually not easy to find. May have had better luck researching under 1510 instead of 500 since in wasn't a 500 for long before being discontinued. Thanks for info!

Honestly pretty good little trucks. I'm probably silly for restoring this unit. Should be a solid work truck if I get engine restored

Thanks for the info! Mine has the jet heads. And I think the head is cracked. It's awaiting more surgery.

The natural tool sounds were blowing out my mic and audio was garbage so I improvised lol. Loud tools aren't that pleasant to listen to anyway

The wheel bearings and axle bearing? I didn't actually break into the locking hubs. They seem to work fine and have little use so I left that mess in tact lol. A lot of parts jammed in that little hub it looks like.

Do you have to use a special carburetor for that setup? That little 1.8 Isuzu doesn't really like to hold onto head gaskets as it is lol. Did you just pull ignition timing and run low boost on pump gas?

@@fabricobbletech i ran a thicker headgasket on the trooper variant bigger engine geminis in au also use it. Loves a little boost ran 7 psi with a webber dcoe sidedraft. Built all the manifolds and ran it with timing limited and retarded a bit. Ran on 87 withought pining because it runs rich and super lean. 11.0 afr accelerating and 16:1 cruising got great fuel milage. There are videos on my channel about it. 5 speed rodeo trans as well little truck had so much tourque and very smooth.

Chevy luv draw through turbo drive th-cam.com/video/JdIzPshEEg4/w-d-xo.html

I have one now! Still not great but it works lol