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@@MikeInGaston I couldn't agree more, I drove to Indiana to check our their furniture first hand before I ordered mine, th-cam.com/video/PYd5NCm7X5k/w-d-xo.html. Here's my Show and tell video on mine. I also have an installation video.

@RxRus The battery is what determines how much voltage and amperage it takes in the charging process. There is no reason you can't simple install Lithium batteries and change The solar controller and inverter settings to LiFePO4 for Lithium battery charging. The Mastervolt 40a is a DC-DC charging device to limit how much the batteries can draw while the alternator is running. You don't need a charging relay or anything else. The Lithium battery is smarter enough to protect itself from overcharging.

@@SandyRVUpgrades Thx Sandy - final question. Lets say the alternator charges at constant 14 volts - fine for bulk phase. When the battery gets close to full and should enter float phase I can imagine the BMS kicking on, off, on..... when it is seeing the 14v from the alternator which is too high for float. Is this an issue or am I overthinking as I tend to do?

@RxRus If the Mastervolt 40a isn't a DC-DC charger, meaning it has 3 stage battery charging, Bulk/absorption and Float then you would need something to turn it off. I guess you're saying it's simply a constant voltage 40a output device. If that's the case then you'd need to turn it off or as you day add a charge relay. I personally would replace it with a real DC-DC charger so you actually get 3 stage battery charging. A constant voltage 40a device can only get a Lithium battery to about 85% charged. It's pretty much always going to over charge a Lithium battery. A Lithium battery needs bulk charging at 13.4-13.6v then after the battery is nearly charged it needs bulk voltage at 14.4-14.6v to get it to 100%. Prolonged Constant alternator voltage of 14.0-14.2 is really to high for a Lithium battery.

@@SandyRVUpgrades I think that is why they add the relay. Final option would be to disconnect the alternator from the coach batteries. I really do not think I would need it - always have the generator for backup. Where would be the easiest place to do that?

@@RxRus Where do you live?

@Monkeypod-p8c I did say I'd rather have dual Kisae's. I don't like to worry about things not performing as they should. I would highly recommend the Kisae 12100, the only down side is the size cables you'd need to run for it, unless you have the older LTV, 2016-2019 with the 1/0 awg cables for the house and chassis battery cable connection to the isolator solenoid. The dual Kisae's let 2015s and older or 2020 and newer use the existing wiring for 1 Kisae and then run a minimum of 6 awg for the 2nd Kisae. Mich easier to pull the smaller wire for a 2nd Kisae in those model years.

@danbarnes2177 A Leisure Travel Vans doesn't have a boost switch. If you're referring to a Winnebago then the answer is yes, if you don't wire that feature in with the DC-DC charger installation. It's not a simple a installation as it is in a LTV.

@@SandyRVUpgradesthank you!

@Monkeypod-p8c You'll need a 120mm fan for sure. I've helped folks do dual Orion-XSs and they work great as long as you install a fan to keep 5he air moving and them cool. You can even get 50a each from them, the 220a or 250a Alternator has no problem giving 100a of Alternator charging to the house battery.

@@SandyRVUpgrades Thank you!

Have you had any experience with the Kisae DMT12100 which is very long at 14 inches and may be able to fit in the space?

@Wes-y5w It depends on how big the Lithium battery is. Your current isolator solenoid/alternator charging system only let's a Lithium battery draw about 60a. If you have less than 300ah Lithium battery, you don't really need a DC-DC charger, unless you want more alternator charging or have a much larger Lithium battery bank. For a basic Lithium battery upgrade you need to add a Victron Shunt if you choose a Lithium battery that doesn't have a Bluetooth BMS battery monitor. You also need to disconnect your converter and battery charger in your breaker box, and install install a good Lithium battery charger as it's replacement like I show in this video, th-cam.com/video/viK8a9Nd2KI/w-d-xo.html. Click on the video title when watching to get links to everything I use.

@stevegittleman1 I believe 2017 is the First year LTV started using that 5 position Mega Fuse block, so you should fine it in your battery box.

@johnfare6466 I wouldn't install the Xantrex ECHO charger around the Redarc 50a DC-DC charger installed under your passenger seat. It would be a little more complicated. I would recommend you install it in the battery area. Just run a new wire for the chassis battery like I do in this Video on a 2024 Unity, th-cam.com/video/-rwGyP2RBDE/w-d-xo.html. Make the house battery connection on the battery side of the master Switch and 350a Mega fuse. There's plenty of room in the battery area to install the Xantrex ECHO charger on the wall or ceiling. Use 10 awg wire to run the chassis battery wire. Click on the title of my videos when watching to show the Description that includes links to everything.

@@SandyRVUpgrades Thank you for your speedy reply, but after reading your response and looking at the associated video it brings up a few more questions. My 2025 Unity has two Battle Born lithium batteries totaling 540 Ampere hours and a total of 400 watts of solar panels on the roof. The batteries are in a compartment along with the Xantrex inverter, solar controller, main disconnect switch and mega fuse block, hopefully there is enough room in this compartment to install the Xantrex ECHO charger. At this point I would just like to install the Xantrex ECHO charger as I believe that Battle Born has an app for monitoring the batteries. Aside from the usual tools, terminals, wire connectors and miscellaneous hardware are there any other components needed aside from the two 30 amp circuit breakers i noticed in the video (and the link to them) to complete this installation as I've described? Thanks again!

@johnfare6466 Yes, just use the video for installing the ECHO charger, it know you don't need the Victron Smart Shunt. To answer your question, the minimum part you need is the 10 awg wire. The Xantrex ECHO charger comes with in-line fuses, but I like replacing them with the resettable 30a circuit breakers. Just for ease of use. It's much easier to simply reset a circuit breaker than trying to replace fuses. Also, the circuit breakers can be used as on-off switches if you ever need to turn off and isolate the ECHO charger. I recommend the resettable circuit breakers, but it is an easier installation if you just want to use the in-line fuses that come to the ECHO charger. You will have to butt splice the new 10 Awg wire to the 12 Awg Xantrex fused chassis battery wire if you go this route. Rather than remove nuts to put the ECHO charger ring terminals on, consider cutting a small section out of the ring connector to make a C, then simply loosen the nut where your connecting it and slip the C under the nut if it's just a nut or under the nuts lock washer, right on top of the LTV lug that is on that terminal bolt. You never want any washers or lock washers between any connectors (lugs and/or ring connectors). If you watch this video for the Xantrex ECHO charger installation part, you'll see the in-line fuses. I just used the Xantrex ECHO charger out of its box in this video, th-cam.com/video/CHb0rBuDF1A/w-d-xo.html.

@@SandyRVUpgrades Hopefully this will be the end of my questions, you mentioned at the end of the video and also in the description below it, the need for an isolation relay if the battery wire isn't isolated when the ignition is off, is it safe to assume that this relay is not needed in my case, also does fuse #32 need to be pulled on the 2025 UMBL when doing the installation? Many thanks again for your continued help!!

@johnfare6466 In 2021 LTV began installing their DC-DC chargers on an ignition controlled isolator relay, so your 2025 50a Redarc DC-DC charger under the passenger seat has its chassis battery connection on an ignition controlled isolator relay. So you don't have to worry about that. There is no longer a need to pull fuse 32, Mercedes solved for 2023 and newer models. Still follow my caution about the electric seat wires, you never want to stretch those.

@Shawn-ts4jw I read the documentation as you can install it wherever and however you want as long as you're prepared to add forced cooling if you find it needs more ventilation. The added forced cooling did the trick, problem solved no more overheating. The 120mm fan keeps my seat base at around 100° with both chargers running at maximum output. They are both quite happy performing under my passenger seat.

But you made it sound like it's victrons fault. In other words you followed advice and it now works perfectly. Why be angry

@thehigsy No it doesn't. I know folks that mounted it vertically and it still overheats. The seat based is a confined space that needs a fan to really provide ventilation. My Kisae DC-DC charger has a fan, which is why it never overheats. For folks that find the Orion-XS overheating, they just turn the output down to 45a to make it happy. But when your running dual DC-DC chargers, there's to much heat to dissipate without a fan directly on the Orion-XS. It's only through experience do you really figure out how these things work!

@RichardMcCauley-w4n It is possible, I've helped almost 100 Sprinter owners do it. I have dual 50a DC-DC chargers myself under the passenger seat, th-cam.com/video/XPZytlbI6BY/w-d-xo.html.

@@SandyRVUpgrades I called Don Rowe and unfortunately you cannot combine the Kisae units.

@RichardMcCauley-w4n I don't know what you mean by combine. I agree they can't be run in series. A DC-DC charger is taking chassis battery power in and putting house battery charging out. You wire each unit in parallel with your chassis and house battery systems. The you have each one performing in parallel at up to 50a output each. You choose the output setting you want for each. Wiring multiple DC-DC chargers in parallel is a very common application for Kisae or Victron DC-DC chargers. You can do the same thing with inverters as well. I have Dual 3000w inverter, wired in parallel with my battery system, so I have first had experience in doing these. I've been using my Dual inverter setup for 4 years and it has performed flawlessly. .

@@SandyRVUpgrades Oh crude. That's what I thought. I asked if you could run the two together and I just assumed he knew they would be in parallel and he used the term combine. Thank you again. For an extra $150 I'm going to give it a shot. Now that I think about it I probably did ask if I could combine the two to make 80 watts. I wasn't clear of my intentions.

@girlzgottaglamp3691 I don't have a shop, it's just a hobby I do with friends. Randi loves her upgrades. They are really a must I think.

@R_W_G Sorry I don't know how to translate your comment to English.

I'm not surprised that your charging converter is overheating. The manufacturer specifies how the device should be installed (vertically). But there are other facts that have not been taken into account. Technically poorly constructed. @@SandyRVUpgrades

@R_W_G The directions recommend vertical installation, but says forced air cooling may still be required. In a confined space like under the seat really doesn't matter which direction you install it, forced air cooling with a fan is still probably going to be required. Because there just isn't anywhere for the heat to go. I have found if you reduce the output to 45a, you don't need a cooling fan if installing a single Orion-XS that is installed horizontally.

@@KacperSmith-i5g Absolutely!

Thank you for your reply.

@@michaelschuchert7716 Click on the video title when watching to get my description and links to things I use in the video. It's a 364.

@@JoelGeist-c4x Yes, and make sure you move the corresponding neutral wires to the inverter side neutral bar as well. I have a few videos showing configuring the breaker box.

Thanks for the quick response-you’re the best.

@maggiedomos1799 The Xantrex ECHO charger is very compatible with Lithium house batteries. An ignition controlled isolator relay needs to be added on your the Sterling DC-DC chargers chassis battery wire under your passenger seat. This stops a do loop of charging from occuring. The Xantrex ECHO charger is a great chassis battery charger, particularly if you use it with Solar. It sounds like your dealer doesn't really understand how to install the Xantrex ECHO charger correctly in your LTV.

Thanks so much.

@maggiedomos1799 I really recommend you replace your Sterling DC-DC charger, it doesn't really perform well. A Kisae or Victron 50a DC-DC charger would be a much better unit for alternator charging. See this, th-cam.com/video/hgMPhdzVf9g/w-d-xo.html.

@maggiedomos1799 Another option to the Xantrex ECHO charger is the Victron Orion-TR chassis battery charger, th-cam.com/video/-ZihXQkk8TY/w-d-xo.html. I would recommend the Victron 50a Orion-XS DC-DC charger for the Sterling replacement and the 18a Victron Orion-Tr Chassis Battery charger. They are both Bluetooth and you can monitor them from an App on your phone.

@guylafrog4193 In very hot weather it's not a good idea for long. Heat makes everything pull more power.

@@fredzuccarelli 600w capable of 42a of Bulk charging output. That supports more than 50% of what it takes to run the Atmos. The Atmos really is an efficient air conditioner.

@@TOM3684 Yes, they are all standard 14" fan opening.

@@SandyRVUpgrades And the Dicor....self leveling or non-self-leveling? Thanks!

@@TOM3684 Self Leveling, always on anything on the roof.

@@SandyRVUpgrades Thank you Sandy, The self-leveling sealant I bought was too runny. I will toss it and get some Dicor!

@@TOM3684 Dicor is all I use.

@justfollowthatvan6721 Very Disappointing to new 2025 LTV Owners for sure. Plus they are finding themselves stranded when they run it down to 0, not understanding they must be jumped like engine batteries in order to be able to take a charge.

@@SandyRVUpgrades I wish LTV would get it together with their electrical systems. They do such an awesome job on everything else like build quality, etc. Just don’t know why they keep going with such sub-par electrical systems🤷🏼‍♀️

@s.mendez7160 Thanks, but I've got a system that works for me and have been doing it for years. I agree hand injuries can have serious lifetime consequences.

@s.mendez7160 Yes it does, the L setting. It has defaults based on the battery current setting, or you can customize it. I love the Kisae, I wish I would have used it vs the Victron. The Kisae is reliable, trouble free and never overheats. The Victron Orion-XS isn't worth att the effort get it as reliable as the Kisae is out of the box!

@@SandyRVUpgrades So the custom settings can be programmed all from the face of the unit, I don't need a remote unit like the EP Ever chargers? Yeah, the Victron DC/DC units warm up when they approach their rated capacity. Kinda sucks. Thanks for your replies.

@s.mendez7160 I do wish I would have gone dual Kisae's, but the fan solved the Victron cooling. Now my seat box stays around 100°, not an issue for either Kisae or Victron. Yes the Kisae settings are set on the face display. There is a remote you can buy, but it isn't required.

@@SandyRVUpgrades I was looking at the spec sheet for the Kisae, and noticed in custom mode the minimum "re-start voltage" is a fixed setting of 12.5V or a little over 15% SOC. Would be cool if that was adjustable...

@s.mendez7160 It also restarts everytime you turn the ignition off and on if you add the ignition controlled isolator relay I recommend on the chassis battery side.

@Makeitblue127 Looks like 100 Download and 17 Upload. The Upload speed is really the most important number. It's the speed at which starlink talks to the internet. The Download speed is the speed at which the device talks to the starlink. But that doesn't mean anything if it can't get to the internet. That's why my Verizon is so bad. I have a Download speed of 300 and an Upload of 3.

@@Scottvidas I will be doing a video on that. I plan on using 12vdc.

@thrillhunter9897 Not anymore the fan fixed it!

@norm4907 I was sitting in my recliner, which is directly underneath the air return, and holding the Meyer right in front of my face. So about 2 feet under the air return.

@@SandyRVUpgrades awesome, thanks.

@@AS-pq3hu I used this one, www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B09SCWWSLH?

The man I mentioned previously who ran the MEGA FUSE TESTS; TH-cam channel is named: "Cleaversolarpower by Nick" and they're "MEGA Fuses" tested, the kind I've been ordering cheap off Amazon previously (mostly BOJACK branded ones unfortunately). As of this writing (9/23/2024) "supposedly genuine" Victron MEGA fuses can be had from several vendors at typically "5 for around $22". (This didn't USED to be so) A good deal if they're actually manufactured by Littlefuse. Or at least approved by Victron in some way. Mine are coming from "Inverters-R-Us" as I sort of trust that seller. I've bought a lot of stuff from them both on and off (directly from their website) of Amazon with no problems. They ship from Reno, NV. Which is quick to me in S. California. That's always nice! Good Luck, And Safe Travels!

@Jim_V. A fire isn't a possibility at 140°F, which is the highest temperature I saw the Orion-XS get. When I install things, I test them and observe them so I can learn and modify my approach if necessary. You have to have the knowledge, skill, and ability to understand the engineering behind the written words of a manual. Victron does say to mount their products vertically because that gives the best chance for heat to rise from their products. However, mounting things vertically isn't always possible, which is why Victron advises forced air flow cooling. So you can mount them horizontally if you increase air flow and ventilation. I had increased the ventilation of my seat base, which has kept my Kisae DC-DC charger operating below 100°F. So adding forced cooling with a fan has greatly improved the Orion-XS performance, and it's now staying below about 110°F. The heat produced by a single Orion-XS probably would have been acceptable, but it was impacting my Kisae DC-DC charger operation, and I couldn't have that. Now, using knock-off fuses and circuit breakers does set you up for a possible fire. Lots of people doing these upgrades for some reason cheap out when it comes to fuses and circuit breakers. I only use name brand fuses, Blue Sea, Littelfuse, Buss, Bussman, and Eaton. Victron fuses seem really cheaply made, and they have no markings on them as to who the manufacturer is, so I refuse to use Victron fuses. If you use knock off fuses, it begs the question of what other knock-off stuff you have in your electrical system. That's a scary thought from an electrical safety perspective. You probably need your "Wish for Luck and Best Safety" more than me. It sounds like you might have been lucky finding your knock-off fuse problem in time. I would take a heat gun to all your electrical connections and verify you don't have any other surprises lurking.

@@SandyRVUpgrades Heat gun check everything always and over build too. I don't mind spending extra money for quality. Would a 4 year in Theoretical Physics suffice? You're talking thermal radiation via air vs, thermal conduction through metal inside the XS. The longevity of the XS may suffer some but I agree I wouldn't worry about the difference. No Littlefuse manufactures Victron fuses. The only question is might "these" Victrons be faked. I bought supposed Littlefuse brand before at top market value. Those had no markings either. But you're right I buckled to the "Bojacks" simply because of the vast number of positive reviews. Can't trust reviews apparently no matter how many people vouch for a product. Blue Sea gouges on price of Bussman product same as Bussman themselves. A fuse isn't a terribly complex metal quality nor expensive piece of to manufacture. But I suppose if they make endless millions per year there's always someone wanting to capture the market through lowest price. It's really a commentary on how poorly the legal system functions as any check on the market and the difficulty of suing for damages, or even lives. But I suppose there's very little reach to everything being produced in China for several decades now. I would imagine even the more reputable names actually produce in China too. It's just they probably sample better for quality control. Yet it's noteworthy at least 2 cheap Chinese brands performed just fine in that man's sample size of n = 1. But, of course that applied to Bojack also. You wouldn't think any company would produce crappy fuses, yet of course some do. I just spent $70 for a simple main breaker a couple weeks ago by Blue Sea. It was the only one with the type of finger switch and rating so I absorbed the soaking. Yeah, paper even takes 451° F so no worries in your setup. I'm considering similar fans in an effort to maximize efficiency after once again reviewing Victron's advisory again. But seriously people and or companies need to be held accountable for something so vital as proper fuses and potential for loss of life. I suppose I over trusted "Bojack" as they simply "appear as" an American run company. I truly hated forking out $70 for that breaker. Nevertheless, the market bares it. And ya gotta pay to play.