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Thanks for watching.

Looks like I will be dealing with this stuff moving forward. I was told I have arthritis in my spine (everyone has some, but mine is getting sporty), some bone spurs, as well as those 3 disc issues L4, L5/S1, and T12. Years of doing this and other construction is catching up with me. I am going to have to drastically change my diet and be strict with it. No more processed foods of any kind. It is hard though to never touch bread, pasta, rice, really any grains, vegetables, or any type of sugar. When I eat any of those products my pain seems to get worse even if I only eat a small amount. I can feel the difference for a few days if I break away from this diet I tried. I did a little test starting in September and ate only animal based products with the occasional low glycemic fruit when I felt like I needed a little bit of carbs. My inflammation went drastically down in my back, knees, right elbow, and hands. Pain in my knees and hands went away. Spine felt 95% or so and my old right elbow injury didn't bother me unless I hit it on something or tried to play catch with my son or throw him some batting practice. Royal pain falling apart. Lol.

@JakePorterHVAC I'm right there with you buddy. We might have to team up one day and open up 2 Old Dudes HVAC. 😎👍 Hang in there. And have a Merry Christmas. 🎅🎄🎁

@@sknight0391 You know so much about HVAC, it would improve my knowledge base working around you. Yeah will do. Have a Merry Christmas as well.

@@JakePorterHVAC and if you're not already, look into getting on a good Turmeric. Natural root based anti-inflammatory. Go to the vitamin shoppe over there beside the Mexican restaurant & Old Navy. I've been taking turmeric for years and it does seem to help.

I am having issues with my GoPro. There is a little piece of something that has covered one of my microphones from inside the camera. I poked holes in it, but it seems like when I am on that side of the camera it picks up worse than the other side. Thanks for the feedback.

Merry Christmas to you as well, Tom.

Different kinds. I have been using Turtle Wax Wax & Dry lately. I also use Turtle Wax High Gloss Spray Wax, Turtle Wax Minute Wax which is a ceramic coat technology, and Turtle Wax Bug & Tar Remover for stubborn spots. I was also using Turtle Wax ICE Synthetic Polish (it was that clear liquid that could be put on everything) and Turtle Wax Clean & Shine, but now I can't find them around here anymore. The ICE polish would shine the unit up for months, even the plastics would go back black and look restored for months. The Clean & Shine gave the unit a little extra pop before the wax or ceramic coat. Worked good on split units in attics or crawl spaces. I sometimes use Turtle Wax Color Back to restore the paint now if I have the time and have some on my van. The Color Back is more labor intensive though. Not a spray. Turtle Wax has gotten a little expensive. The Wax & Dry used to be $3 a bottle. Then, it was $5 per bottle and it jumped to $6 per bottle and now it just went up again here to $7 per bottle plus 9.5% tax. The ceramic coat stuff is $12 - $15 per bottle or so plus tax. As far as cleaners I use an organic all purpose cleaner made up of some essential oils (Doterra or Now brands) that I mix up myself. Mainly lemon, lime, lemongrass, peppermint, and a couple of other things. I use distilled water to dilute it. My wife is the mixologist there. Lol. I also have used a cleaner by Thieves as well that is all natural. On tougher spots, I will use heavier cleaners that are safe on metals diluted down with distilled water. Can't remember the name of the stuff I have now in my van. I got it on a clearance sale. It is purple in color. I have used mean green diluted way down and simple green as well that is diluted way down. Don't ever want to hurt the paint or finish, so I like to use caution with heavier cleaners or degreasers.

Yeah, it shined up pretty good.

Thanks for tuning in.

Yeah, probably wasn't a nitrogen flowing while brazing operation. Looked like a cut and stuff. Real high end. Homeowners unfortunately don't know the difference between someone who does everything correctly or a guy that just takes all of the shortcuts and gets it done however. Most just look at the price.

Different kinds. I have been using Turtle Wax Wax & Dry lately. I also use Turtle Wax High Gloss Spray Wax, Turtle Wax Minute Wax which is a ceramic coat technology, and Turtle Wax Bug & Tar Remover for stubborn spots. I was also using Turtle Wax ICE Synthetic Polish (it was that clear liquid that could be put on everything) and Turtle Wax Clean & Shine, but now I can't find them around here anymore. The ICE polish would shine the unit up for months, even the plastics would go back black and look restored for months. The Clean & Shine gave the unit a little extra pop before the wax or ceramic coat. Worked good on split units in attics or crawl spaces. I sometimes use Turtle Wax Color Back to restore the paint now if I have the time and have some on my van. The Color Back is more labor intensive though. Not a spray. Turtle Wax has gotten a little expensive. The Wax & Dry used to be $3 a bottle. Then, it was $5 per bottle and it jumped to $6 per bottle and now it just went up again here to $7 per bottle plus 9.5% tax. The ceramic coat stuff is $12 - $15 per bottle or so plus tax. As far as cleaners I use an organic all purpose cleaner made up of some essential oils (Doterra or Now brands) that I mix up myself. Mainly lemon, lime, lemongrass, peppermint, and a couple of other things. I use distilled water to dilute it. My wife is the mixologist there. Lol. I also have used a cleaner by Thieves as well that is all natural. On tougher spots, I will use heavier cleaners that are safe on metals diluted down with distilled water. Can't remember the name of the stuff I have now in my van. I got it on a clearance sale. It is purple in color. I have used mean green diluted way down and simple green as well that is diluted way down. Don't ever want to hurt the paint or finish, so I like to use caution with heavier cleaners or degreasers.

@@JakePorterHVAC Thank you so must Jake for your response

Thanks for tuning in.

You as well man.

I try to, but sometimes I have to put my palm to my forehead for catching myself being an idiot. It happens. Lol.

Thanks bud.

Good to know that I am not the only one out there who has had this issue. Mine was balled up at the top and it looked like his was buried in the fluffy stuff. Not a good design using that limit.

Thanks for watching. I will try to post from time to time since I am staying in the trade and not bailing now.

Hard pipe is definitely is a better option for longevity. More expensive and labor intensive, so not used much around here. Got a better balance on it now by increasing the return size in the bonus room to recover the air that was being delivered up there. Reduced the airflow going into the 20x30 with the 16" on it. That 20x30 was picking up the excess air from the bonus room that wasn't being recovered by that tiny 8" up there. Filter was really getting pulled in before on the 20x30 while running and now it doesn't. Made it quieter in the main room. They seem happy. Thanks for watching.

@JakePorterHVAC your welcome I picked up right away whoever did all that ductwork never did it properly originally glad you fixed it especially on the returns in my case at my condo though for setting up returns I am limited to 6 inch round pipe or 6 inch oval to round to run returns. Then increase up to an 8 into the bottom plenum or air handler box. I just don't get what it is with these builder contractors not properly designing the systems or sizing corectly for the square feet. My place should be a 3 ton not 1 and a half ton. It's just common sense anyone can figure out when you go to a, store to buy a window air conditioner which is 1 ton for every 550 square feet it really is that simple when sizing a system. Keep em coming jake

Yeah, it seemed to be a longer process than any other mini split wheel I have done before. I don't do too much with mini splits anymore though. I haven't been taking any new customers on with mini split units for the past 5 years or so. Tell them to call someone else. I don't maintenance them, repair, or install them for anyone anymore.

Welcome man. Appreciate you showing some support.

Appreciate the support.

Mitsubishi seems to be the better built machine. This York is on it's 3rd repair in 3 years. Unit came out of the box DOA, thermistor bank went on the outdoor heat pump causing it not to defrost, and now the wheel. Thanks for watching man.

Mitsubishi honestly would be my choice for a mini split or even pioneer I just especially hate those no vac quick connect linesets for anything and it's not just Mr cool anymore companies like bella push it too. And like I tell people Mr cool just rebadges products which can make it dificult to identify for techs to actually know who actaully made the units so parts can be ordered and that's a bad thing. As for York like I say a lot York was good prior to 2005. But now it's junk and yes I know bosh is buying Johnson controls out but that does not mean the existing ones will get design improvements as for pioneer I like that pioneer gives you the linesets ajx instructions but they don't preflare any linesets and gives instructions to the homeowner on what tools you need but then says if you aren't comfortable hire a proper hvac guy to install. And I know you hvac guys typically don't like preflared linesets. As for Mitsubishi I like them too but some of them come with preflared linesets. So that means the installer often has to reflare the linesets unless that's changed.

@@gabrielstern4992 Depends on the supply house where you buy the lineset on if they come pre-flared or not. If you order them online they could come with flares already. I go to local supply houses to get my lineset, materials, and equipment. Buying online is a bad idea. Parts become hard to find or not available, warranty issues, and the list goes on. I would never use a factory flare on a lineset. They are typically trash.

@JakePorterHVAC I know that's, what I was trying to say learned, that from Ted cooks video Instaling mini split at my house. I have even sighted that video a few times to a certain electrician in new jersey. Who was installing one of those Mr cool mini splits for which I would never buy. When he said in the video I might install some of these for my customers which sent alarm bells off for me. Especially after he tried the always follow the manufactures instructions crap even if debates from proper practices. Anyway those no vac quick connect linesets I detest. Especially the Mr cool ones which look like stove pipe and are impossible to fix or reflare. Anyway pioneer does not preflare their linesets they give you the nut fitting but they make you go out and buy a flare kit. So again jake an hvac guys dream VS most mini splits take care and get rid of that York mini split. If it's family get them a Mitsubishi or a pioneer. Your family will thank you later on. Take care

@@gabrielstern4992 It is my parent's place. They have a 20 SEER Mitsubishi inverter heat pump in their loft inside the home I put in for them. No issues in 8 years. I clean it up twice a year for them in the spring & fall. My Dad didn't want to wait for the Mitsubishi stuff to come back in stock during the pandemic garbage. They put water out there in the upper barn and he was going to have to heat it with a diesel heater which is pricey to do on a space that big and it is pain to keep filling it everyday. Mitsubishi was backordered 3 months or so at that time. Warned him about the York's quality compared to Mitsubishi, but he still wanted to pull the trigger. York isn't bad, it is average and below like everything else now. He knew what he was getting into. Luckily they know a guy who works in HVAC and is family. Lol. Hopefully he won't have anymore issues out of it. No telling though. It does have a 10 year parts warranty, so there is still 7 years left on it. I registered it after installation. I am set up to do labor warranty work on York as well for other customers. The Mitsubishi in the loft is already out of warranty. I am not a diamond dealer. I believe it came with a 5 year parts and a 7 year compressor warranty. I have never touched a Pioneer unit. Don't know anything about them. No one sells them around here.

I currently don't take any new customers with ductless mini splits that need maintenance, repair, or installation. Haven't for at least 5 years now. They are a pain to deal with. I have helped existing customers and family.

Appreciate you tuning in again. I enjoy HVAC work, but my body has taken a beating over the years.

It is an AC controlled device. Might work in DC, but I don't know. I personally would use AC. Might damage the 24 volt AC coil hooking up DC to it.

Not sure what you mean by balanced. If you use a tape, it would need to be silver tape that is rated for higher temps since it will be in the furnace cabinet. If you use a tape it would need to be torn into thin 1/4" - 1/2" strips wide and a few inches long, be long enough to grab the lifted area securely with tape, and then the tape would need to pulled pull tight flattening out the lifted area and wrapped on the metal plate where the temp limits sits. Then, the tape would need to be pressed into place so that it doesn't work loose. Squeegeed. You could then trim the tape around where the temp limit mounts so that the tape isn't viewable with the temp limit mounted. I would suggest having a licensed contractor look at it to make sure you don't have a ductwork issue or something else going on as well. Might be overfired on gas pressure or not be moving enough air through the system. Blower might need to be adjusted up in speed. Temp limit could be faulty. Board could be faulty. Furnace repairs are done at your own risk. Not advised. Thanks for watching.

Thank you so much for this advice!!! This worked perfect! I had trouble with my unit all last winter and my hvac company wanted to charge me an arm and a leg to “fix” it. You are a savior!

Appreciate you watching.

Don't know what size they are inside the walls, but for the size of the unit, if they are 6" supplies he didn't have enough. Would have to open the register covers to measure the supply on the duct boot.

Yeah I have had 24 volts to the coil and the sequencer not close/make. Typically, the guts inside the sequencer go bad and don't close the contacts. The resistance can vary. It is much higher than what you would find on a single pole contactor for example. Single pole contactor would be around 15 ohms plus or minus 5 ohms. So, in the range of 10-20 ohms. A double pole contactor will typically have less ohms. Typically, 12.5 ohms plus or minus about 5 ohms. So, in the range of 8 ohms on up to 18 ohms. Anything over or under those ranges, I would recommend replacement. I would also consider charring on the contacts as well on if I would recommend replacement. With a sequencer, you can see 70 ohms to 85 ohms on the coil. I have seen them at 120 ohms and still work perfectly fine. Really depends.

Yeah, I always like to read the literature. The tag sometimes has the range, other times its looking at the manual. If I installed it, I would have done a combustion analysis. I offer combustion analysis when I do a furnace maintenance, however most don't want to pay the additional money. Where I live I have to pay attention to the elevation for sure. In the city where I am, we are good, but when you get out in Unicoi, Roan Mountain, and some other areas around here the elevation definitely plays a role in how you set them up.

@@JakePorterHVAC altitude is definitely an important factor but even at sea level furnaces can be a tad over or under-fired at nominal gas pressure depending on orifices they come with that's what i was saying. With combustion analysis isn't the greatest cost the tool (and its maintenance) which you have anyway? should only add a a couple of minutes drilling hole in flu and inserting it when running the furnace a bit to check temp rise anyway.

@@Jon-hx7pe Yeah, it depends on the manufacturer. My combustion analyzer is expensive to keep going at least for me as poor hiker trash. Sensor cost is $300 -$400 or so per year now with this inflation. If I do a combustion analysis, I charge extra money. It costs too much to keep the thing running not to charge extra money. My sensors expire and shut my analyzer down even if I never use it. Worst investment in a tool. I bought the Bacharach Fyrite Intech Combustion Analyzer with the printer and it is a total freaking scam of a tool. I wish I never spent that money on that piece of crap. Some winters I don't work on gas furnaces much at all. I seem to go in cycles around here. Some winters I mainly only work on furnaces and then other winters I mainly work on heat pumps. Last winter I worked on only a couple of gas furnaces in total. Everything I worked on was heat pumps or electric heat in trailers.

@@Jon-hx7pe Forgot to mention, I like to see 3.5" WC on a natural gas furnace because it is in the middle of that acceptable range based on literature. 3.5" is the standard. Anything over 3.5", I would consider it overfired or anything under 3.5" is underfired, unless I see evidence of a combustion analysis being done on the furnace. Typically, should be a printed report left behind when done. I would understand having higher or lower gas pressure than 3.5" if the furnace has been tuned using a combustion analyzer and the numbers warrant it being set over or under 3.5". When I see a gas valve that has never been set, ie. no evidence of the adjustment screw ever being turned, it is a safe bet that the installer never set the gas pressure during install and just let her rip. Typically, I see them around here at 3.7" to 4.2" when they aren't adjusted at install or during a service. I have seen them even higher though. I like to check my temp rise and set my blower speed so that my temp rise falls somewhere in the middle of my target with the gas pressure at 3.5". If I have to set my pressure lower than 3.5" or over 3.5" because I can't meet the temp rise target, I will use a combustion analyzer to confirm that I am in range of where I need to be with that furnace. At least that is my thought process on it. If I were to install a furnace, combustion analysis is done at install as well as gas pressure adjustment, and blower speed selection based on temp rise target. Good to see a comment from you. I can tell you are well versed in HVAC. I remember you from my old channel. Do you make any videos on here? I bet you could offer some great video content with your experience and knowledge. Thanks for tuning in.

Yes, it is crazy!

Thanks for tuning in.

Very true. You as well.

LOL. I actually carry snips in my van made for cutting shrubs and bushes. It would have taken awhile though with those ones.

More than likely won't be any videos on those. Having to spend money on repairing my home, repairing my service van, and business expenses so I can't pay someone to see if those videos can be recovered or not. Unfortunately, they are probably gone for good. I hope you had a good Thanksgiving.

They still allow gas flex to enter the cabinet here. I have always hard piped it out of the cabinet.

Thanks for the support. Appreciate you leaving a comment and for watching.

You know it. Thanks man.

Appreciate it Tom. You too.

Yeah, they were trying to save $2 in additional wire length or something.

Thanks leaving a comment and for watching.

Need to get to a unit where I could go over a schematic in the field. Maybe a family member's house where I don't charge. That way I could reference the schematic and the parts in the same video. Probably would make it click better. Thanks for watching.

Appreciate you leaving a comment and watching.

Copy that.

Welcome. Appreciate you taking time out of your day to leave a comment and show some extra support.

Vane Anemometer by Yellow Jacket.

@ thank you 🙏

@@HfJax Welcome

Man that sucks. Hopefully it is an easy fix and it is just an insulation issue. It is pretty puffy insulation around such a small temperature limit lacking any real depth to allow airflow to pass over it. Not the best design. I used to like Carrier. It was my favorite brand. There really isn't a quality built machine out there anymore. Average at best or worse. I hope this video helps you out. Best of luck.

Dang. Good to know. Thanks for leaving a comment to help spread the word.

Why do you believe it needs to be replaced?

Yeah, the additional oil helps. I have had an Appion core tool leak on me and I had only used it maybe a dozen times. Leaked at the body, so replacing the ring didn't help. Used to have a video on my old channel about the failure. Sucked because they aren't cheap. Thanks for tip on the rings. Appreciate you tuning in and leaving a comment.

New Hampshire is pretty, but the hut system there is awful. I did not enjoy my time in the White Mountains due to government over reach in the area. Commercialized the whole area. Made it a playground for the wealthy. 14 years ago they were charging about $95 per night to get a wood platform on a bunk to sleep on. If you didn't pay and set your tent up somewhere you could be fined for sleeping in the woods. They did have spots next to the huts where you could pay to set up your tent. Crazy. I could not wait to get out of that whole area. Not a fan of the supposed "Live Free" state. Didn't seem very free when I was hiking through there. Seemed very restrictive to me.

Thanks for watching.