I didn't charge for this visit over there. It was more for my information before I decided what I wanted to do. I did not have time the last visit over there to break out the anemometer. I was pressed for time. Try to cover my bases best I can. Thanks for the support.
Great video Jake it sounds like you need to redo the return ductwork Maybe with reducing the ducts to maybe 6 inch returns but again that's just Also if it were me I would get rid of all that flex ductwork on the return and redo with solid pipe and wrap. But again that's just me. Either way it needs to be balanced properly. Great video jake.
Hard pipe is definitely is a better option for longevity. More expensive and labor intensive, so not used much around here. Got a better balance on it now by increasing the return size in the bonus room to recover the air that was being delivered up there. Reduced the airflow going into the 20x30 with the 16" on it. That 20x30 was picking up the excess air from the bonus room that wasn't being recovered by that tiny 8" up there. Filter was really getting pulled in before on the 20x30 while running and now it doesn't. Made it quieter in the main room. They seem happy. Thanks for watching.
@JakePorterHVAC your welcome I picked up right away whoever did all that ductwork never did it properly originally glad you fixed it especially on the returns in my case at my condo though for setting up returns I am limited to 6 inch round pipe or 6 inch oval to round to run returns. Then increase up to an 8 into the bottom plenum or air handler box. I just don't get what it is with these builder contractors not properly designing the systems or sizing corectly for the square feet. My place should be a 3 ton not 1 and a half ton. It's just common sense anyone can figure out when you go to a, store to buy a window air conditioner which is 1 ton for every 550 square feet it really is that simple when sizing a system. Keep em coming jake
HVAC Shop Talk has some good videos about this subject from awhile back. Check him out if you haven't already. If I do some more jobs like this in the future, I will try to go into more depth about it.
.56"WC to .58" WC was the TESP. The manual for the air handler gives these numbers with a wet coil, with no air filter, and with no heat kit installed. .5" WC 1,594 CFM and .7" WC 1,586 CFM. There is not a .6"WC rating in the manual. During my test I had a filter at each filter grille and a 15kw heat kit inside the machine. My readings with the vane anemometer accounting for Free Area of the grilles were under the rating in the manual at 1,538 CFM as my Average CFM. The readings with a vane anemometer won't be exact which is why I like to do x3 one minute tests at each grille and take the average of the 3. Gets you pretty close.
Nice work Jake.
Thanks for tuning in.
Good to have you back, Jake. Thxs for the vids!
I appreciate you watching and leaving a comment. Nice to see.
Excellent video and information thanks
Thanks for watching. Appreciate it.
As alwaysgreat work Jake. Your customers definitely get their moneys worth.
I didn't charge for this visit over there. It was more for my information before I decided what I wanted to do. I did not have time the last visit over there to break out the anemometer. I was pressed for time. Try to cover my bases best I can. Thanks for the support.
Nice work man 😊
Thanks for leaving a comment and showing some extra channel support.
Great video Jake it sounds like you need to redo the return ductwork Maybe with reducing the ducts to maybe 6 inch returns but again that's just Also if it were me I would get rid of all that flex ductwork on the return and redo with solid pipe and wrap.
But again that's just me.
Either way it needs to be balanced properly.
Great video jake.
Hard pipe is definitely is a better option for longevity. More expensive and labor intensive, so not used much around here. Got a better balance on it now by increasing the return size in the bonus room to recover the air that was being delivered up there. Reduced the airflow going into the 20x30 with the 16" on it. That 20x30 was picking up the excess air from the bonus room that wasn't being recovered by that tiny 8" up there. Filter was really getting pulled in before on the 20x30 while running and now it doesn't. Made it quieter in the main room. They seem happy. Thanks for watching.
@JakePorterHVAC your welcome I picked up right away whoever did all that ductwork never did it properly originally glad you fixed it especially on the returns in my case at my condo though for setting up returns I am limited to 6 inch round pipe or 6 inch oval to round to run returns. Then increase up to an 8 into the bottom plenum or air handler box.
I just don't get what it is with these builder contractors not properly designing the systems or sizing corectly for the square feet.
My place should be a 3 ton not 1 and a half ton.
It's just common sense anyone can figure out when you go to a, store to buy a window air conditioner which is 1 ton for every 550 square feet it really is that simple when sizing a system.
Keep em coming jake
IF YOU CAN DO A VIDEO MORE IN DEPTH..I LIKE TO LEARN ABOUT THE FREE SPACE OF THE GRILLS TO KNOW HOW TO LOOK THEM UP
HVAC Shop Talk has some good videos about this subject from awhile back. Check him out if you haven't already. If I do some more jobs like this in the future, I will try to go into more depth about it.
Meticulous as usual. Thank you
Thanks for watching.
Jake, based on total esp, what was the total cfm. Just curious if the numbers are same as from your anemometer readings.
.56"WC to .58" WC was the TESP. The manual for the air handler gives these numbers with a wet coil, with no air filter, and with no heat kit installed. .5" WC 1,594 CFM and .7" WC 1,586 CFM. There is not a .6"WC rating in the manual. During my test I had a filter at each filter grille and a 15kw heat kit inside the machine. My readings with the vane anemometer accounting for Free Area of the grilles were under the rating in the manual at 1,538 CFM as my Average CFM.
The readings with a vane anemometer won't be exact which is why I like to do x3 one minute tests at each grille and take the average of the 3. Gets you pretty close.
Could be some variance there as well due to duct leakage. Air filters were also MERV 5 rated.