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Just Another Craftsman
Czechia
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 24 พ.ค. 2020
What can I say? I got a thing for crafting...
Transforming Soda Cans into a High CRI LED Panel / Casting Custom Light
In this video, I took waste soda cans of different brands and melted them into aluminum ingots. In the meantime, I prepared and 3D printed a LED panel model. Once I had the model done, I prepared a sand mold and cast the rough shape, which I further refined on my milling machine. A coat of red color, and the body was done. I then proceeded with the electrical work, cutting and soldering LED strips. A little test and only happiness remained.
มุมมอง: 132
วีดีโอ
How to Turn Healing Vibes into Deadly Blows / Casting Extraordinary Knuckleduster
มุมมอง 4421 วันที่ผ่านมา
Not a huge fan of healing crystals and esoteric universe. So I made something special to celebrate and conect real and alternative ways of live. The content is full of hyperbole and sarcasm, consume at your own risk. the body of knuckleduster is casted from brass based on 3D printed model. The casting was a first time success. I roughtly machined the part on my milling machine and than I spent ...
Revealing Secrets of Homemade Metal/ Bronze under Microscope
มุมมอง 237หลายเดือนก่อน
I made bronze crysknife from Dune in my previous video and I was curious what is inside the bronze I prepared for casting the knife. I did expect some fllaws like some sulphur residues (sulphur sulphides), since i used copper sulfate (chalcantite) ore as the source of copper. #casting #bronze #microscopy
I Turned Pool Chemistry into Crysknife from Dune 2 / Power of Crafting!
มุมมอง 2.5K4 หลายเดือนก่อน
The idea for this video had been in my mind for a long time. I waited patiently for the ideal prop, and the blue crystal's color somehow matched the Dune theme perfectly. The moment it clicked, I began production, and it turned out to be a joyful journey. There's something truly special about working with molten metal and crafting your very own bronze from ore, represented by beautifull mineral...
3D Printed Venturi Burners, Good Idea or Darwin Award Qualification?
มุมมอง 1305 หลายเดือนก่อน
Plastic and fire doesn't really come together... or does it? Is 3D printing a burner safe? Well, let's find out, but spoiler alert: it's not. Friendly reminder: Don't try this at home. The burner is ingeniously constructed in three pieces, offering adjustable flames at your fingertips. Designed with in Fusion 360, the burner undergoes a filament fiesta. I test Aurapol PLA and Bambulab PETG, ABS...
Die-Hard Craftsmanship: Making and Testing DIY Blacksmithing Guillotine Dies
มุมมอง 1.4K5 หลายเดือนก่อน
In my previous video, I machined a blacksmithing guillotine, or a smithing magician, if you want. However, due to the lack of proper tools, I didn't test it then. But today, that changes. I bought a huge ball bearing for 2 $. Not the ideal steel, but hey, it was a bargain. I cut the ball bearing into sections and battled through its abrasion resistance. The machining process was intense, with p...
I don't have three hands so I made this tool Blacksmithing Guillotine
มุมมอง 5506 หลายเดือนก่อน
Blacksmith guillotine, what a tool, all you need is different sets of dies and miracles happens. #blacksmithing #tools #DIY
How acurate are prints from Bambulab X1C 3D printer / bed flatness, ANC, unboxing
มุมมอง 2.3K7 หลายเดือนก่อน
In this video, I unbox and review the Bambulab X1C 3D printer. After sharing my selection process among Qidi, Creality K1, and Bambulab P1S, I go through the setup and initial checks. Testing bed flatness and precision, I address issues with bed springiness and achieve improvement. Instead of the common Benchy print, I opt for a table model and showcase noise cancellation calibration. A compari...
Improving Bearing Capacity of Tube Cutting Jig / lathe
มุมมอง 1668 หลายเดือนก่อน
Current bearing capacity is 100 kg, after upgrade it is 64 000 kg, in theory, because every other part would fail, but the ballbearings are trully capable to withstand the carrying capacity of 64 000 if the load is evenly distributed.
Angle Grinder Hack? : Perfect Your-Tube Cuts / Tube Cutting Jig DIY
มุมมอง 56911 หลายเดือนก่อน
Using an angle grinder might seem straightforward, but when it comes to tube cutting, it can get a bit tricky. I'll show you a simple trick to tackle this challenge effectively. In this video, I'm using my trusty old angle grinder, which has been with me for an astonishing 18 years! It's seen its fair share of projects. Today, I'll be mounting it to a custom tube cutting jig, and I'll walk you ...
Tube Cutting Jig from Leftovers
มุมมอง 1.1K11 หลายเดือนก่อน
This video is about upgrading a plasma cutter to a powerful tool for cutting tubes of various diameters. #Homemade #crafting #tubecuttingmachine
3 Years to Make This Table... Am I Bad Craftsman?
มุมมอง 285ปีที่แล้ว
I started the project of making the heavy duty table back in 2020 and I finally finished it recently. Does it mean that the table is somehow special? Not really. It just highlight my poor time managment, procrastination and never ending side projects. Now is my workspace finally organized. #custom #table #craft
Machining a Tool for Making Silver Wire / Drawplate
มุมมอง 6Kปีที่แล้ว
This video showcases my journey in making a drawplate. I needed a drawplate for creating silver wire, as I plan to incorporate a silver inlay into the brass guards for one of my upcoming knife-making videos. Unfortunately, I only had silver dust on hand and needed to transform it into wire, which led to the idea for this project. The drawplate is crafted from an old spring. This project encompa...
Repurposing Antique Brass from Treasure Hunts
มุมมอง 259ปีที่แล้ว
This project is all about repurposing old brass, which was excavated during numerous treasure hunts. Every single piece wás literally dug out of the ground. I sorted the finds, put aside different alloys and finally cast the ingots. One ingot was cleaned by angle grinder later on and machined according to needs into the brass stand. #casting #treasurehunting #recycling
From Casting to Machining: Crafting Custom Bronze Bushings for Old Tractor
มุมมอง 614ปีที่แล้ว
This video is about crafting a pair of perfectly fitting bushings for an old tractor oil pump.I started by disassembly and localization of the problem. There were three issues with the part. Damaged bushing's housing, worn and damaged shaft and same for the bushings. I re-boored the housing holes, than I repaired gear shaft. At this point I had all the crucial dimensions for designing bushings....
Silver Transformation: From Coins to Solution, From Solution to Dice
มุมมอง 589ปีที่แล้ว
Silver Transformation: From Coins to Solution, From Solution to Dice
I Forged This Tool from a Piece of Scrap Steel. Lathe Chamfering Tool
มุมมอง 146Kปีที่แล้ว
I Forged This Tool from a Piece of Scrap Steel. Lathe Chamfering Tool
Hand Forged Tomahawk out of Railroad Track / Minimal Tools
มุมมอง 28K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Hand Forged Tomahawk out of Railroad Track / Minimal Tools
Repairing Century Old Anvil / derusting , resurfacing and painting
มุมมอง 27K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Repairing Century Old Anvil / derusting , resurfacing and painting
Shop Made Fly Cutter for Milling Machine (220 mm diameter)
มุมมอง 89K2 ปีที่แล้ว
Shop Made Fly Cutter for Milling Machine (220 mm diameter)
I machined LEGO brick mold for casting LEGO bricks at home.
มุมมอง 6K3 ปีที่แล้ว
I machined LEGO brick mold for casting LEGO bricks at home.
World simplest screw JACK / Mechanical jack made of NUT and BOLT
มุมมอง 28K3 ปีที่แล้ว
World simplest screw JACK / Mechanical jack made of NUT and BOLT
Machining Slitting Saw ARBOR out of Rebar / Manual Lathe and Mill operation
มุมมอง 3.7K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Machining Slitting Saw ARBOR out of Rebar / Manual Lathe and Mill operation
Experiment With EPOXY Underwater... Will the resin Harden?
มุมมอง 7853 ปีที่แล้ว
Experiment With EPOXY Underwater... Will the resin Harden?
Testing 60$ infrared thermometer Kaemeasu KMI-IT1600 / MAX temp 2192 °F or 1600 °C
มุมมอง 2.9K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Testing 60$ infrared thermometer Kaemeasu KMI-IT1600 / MAX temp 2192 °F or 1600 °C
EPOXY RESIN one month in Acetone / Experiment
มุมมอง 3.1K3 ปีที่แล้ว
EPOXY RESIN one month in Acetone / Experiment
Forging RAZOR Sharp scalpel knife from scrap BEARING / hammer, sand paper and files
มุมมอง 49K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Forging RAZOR Sharp scalpel knife from scrap BEARING / hammer, sand paper and files
Making heart Punch Tool / Custom job for friend
มุมมอง 4643 ปีที่แล้ว
Making heart Punch Tool / Custom job for friend
Heavy cuts with PLASMA STAMOS / tungsten, brass, HSS, tool steel, stainless...
มุมมอง 2.2K3 ปีที่แล้ว
Heavy cuts with PLASMA STAMOS / tungsten, brass, HSS, tool steel, stainless...
DIY aluminium frame for a camera (canon M6 II) | improvised anodizing | minimum tools
มุมมอง 973 ปีที่แล้ว
DIY aluminium frame for a camera (canon M6 II) | improvised anodizing | minimum tools
Nice work! I quite enjoy your videos. I hope the algorithm gives you more visibility. Keep it up!
Thank you, appreciate 🙂. My channel is long time driven by my curiosity and by being unable to stay still. It would be nice, but I don't expect it. But I'll definitely work on constant improvment 🙂.
Amazing amount of sample prep for such a video. I wonder how the crack formation came about - does the volume of the beta phase regions change so much?
Thank you! I'm new to bronze structures, so I might be wrong, but my guess is relation to beta, gama, delta crystal structure change. I'm not sure about beta, but delta is relatively fragile so volumetric change plus fragility might be the cause. Another reason might that it is broken into a pore behind it.
Interesting. Does the outer edge of the crossection exhibit a different structure - as it may have cooled more quickly? Or would the heat from the interior have to pass through that region, making the structure fairly homogenous? Thanks for the videos.
Hello David, Thank you for your feedback! I would say that apart from the peripheral porosity, probably caused by the violent burning of the petrobond sand, it is fairly homogeneous. There is no systematic distribution of individual phases. Here and there there are random areas enriched with delta phase, so there are literally islands of alpha surrounded by light blue colored delta, but other than that, and some random cracks, it's similar. There is one interesting phenomenon that I forgot to mention, the streaked lines that look like smudges revealing the different orientation of the dendrites. I'm planning a follow-up video showing the changes caused by annealing and peening... somehow I'm hooked by the topic :), because it kind of intersects with my daily job.
Круглые таблетки рулят. Сваял фрезу под две таблетки. То что на видео и рядом не стояло.
Loved the video! I started pouring maybe 6 months ago. I always wanted to pour silver dice. Do you think sand casting would work? I don't have any of the machinery you have. Would it be best to find a dice that has squared off corners and then sand cast that? Because I'm having a very hard time finding one. That way, I wouldn't have to do all that work to square off each corner. They all seem to have rounded edges. I think if I could find a nice square die, I could use that to make as many dice as I want. What is your opinion? Thank you.
Hello Scott, sandcasting will be just fine, but you not gonna avoid some file work. I bet on hammering it into the shape. It helps to even the surface, but be carefull, because you may end up with rhombohedron. Anyway good luck and enjoy! There is something about molten metal. Btw if you have someone with 3d printer, they could help you with the model.
@@JustAnotherCraftsman Thank you for the fast reply. Yes, I do know someone who has a 3d printer. I DO! I'm using PLA filament and things don't come out perfectly smooth. So should I print it, cast it and then smooth it out?
@@scotts1356 I'd smooth the printed cube with emery cloth to remove line effect. Also, do You plan to cast it in halved mold with intake and vents or just imprint in sand remove and cast?
@@JustAnotherCraftsman I was planning on using the 2 piece metal jewelry casting mold. Imprint in it, remove the dice and pour. Make sense? I printed a cube and sanded it down. It took a little bit of time, but it came out nice and smooth. I figured it would be easier to smooth it before I poured it. Smoothing out silver can be time consuming. Now if I can get a "smooth" pour, I'll be happy!
@@scotts1356 Than you are set for the best results! Please let me know how did it go. Good luck!
Omg, You are a lifesaver!! Thought my beautifull stone was lost forever in that bubbley epoxy but thanks to you help I got it out in just 3 Days withou any damage! Thhhhaaaaannnkkkkk yoooouuuuu! ❤
Happy to help 🙂
Видео для немых 😐
A crysknife is a knife made from a sandworm tooth. 😅 O-or at least it was in the book. I love this take on it though!!
Yes, you are correct :). I took a chance on connecting specific blue color with pun of crys-knife crys-tal and idea for a video, that was in my mind for quite a long time.
... and most importantly, unfortunately there are no big sandworms where I live :(
@@JustAnotherCraftsman That is an abject tragedy... But thankfully, they might be chemically similar anyways!! In an expanded lore book, they described their bodies as being furnace-like. For all we know, they might actually be able to smelt metals in their stomachs!
@@Monderoth I am not familiar with the lore, so thank you for your insight, love it! 🙂
Walter white out here making knives.
You won the comment section! 😆
I really like the design of your burner. Would love to see a "how to build" video of it.
It is actually on my to do list :)
That worked really well. Maybe you could make some fullering dies for swords?
Thank you for the feedback. Yes, I plan to make some special dies for fullering knives/swords
This was one of the jobs that took more time than I expected, but a great experience though
Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice work
Thank you so much! 🙂
Would you mind explaining( telling) what solution you used for the hot bluing? Thank You
Absolutely, I use mixture of 950 g of sodium hydroxide and 50 g of potassium nitrate dissolved in 1 liter of water. Clean the part thouroughly an imers it in boiling solution keep it there for 15-20 minutes and if it is not done yet give it longer time. Keep in mind that not every steel has same response on hot bluing. Be super careful, because you are playing with concentrated hot base, avoid any sputter.
Thanks,I've tried the cold blue and wasn't satisfied and ended up painting with with acrylic enamel flat black. Not the look, I'll try your method next time.@@JustAnotherCraftsman
Beautiful tool. very talented, Thank You
Hi, Would you mind telling me the part number or any info on the cutting tool. Looks like a boring bar. A good idea not to have to cut square holes. I'm at the point of tooling now. Thank You
It is an old Hauser boring head with MT1. There are many options out there, it depends what are your needs 🙂. You can find them cheap on aliexpress and similar platforms. Boring head or boring bar, as you've mentioned, is the correct term.
Thank You , I was wondering about the angle. The inserts could be purchased for the material. I enjoy your page. Thank You for your reply.@@JustAnotherCraftsman
Man, I gave you info on different tool, I just realized 😂. It is inner boring bar for lathe. I bought one from Beyond aliexpress store. I have long time good experience with them. The price is good for the quality. I don't remember exact type, but I can look once I get home. Thank you for the feedback 🙂
Thank You@@JustAnotherCraftsman
It's commonly referred to as a smithin' magician, great video.
Thank you for the feedback. You are correct, it is probably more often referred as smithin' magician
I'm already in the process of making the dies and let me tell you one thing, it was a stupid idea to make them out of a huge ball bearing... but no backing out 🙃
Beautiful....
Can you provide the Fusion 360 file? I would love to make this with my CNC machine using Graphite mold for metal casting the lego.
Hi, I'll try to dig it out and send it to you, but I am not 100 % sure if I still have it.
My box had a rip in it in almost exactly the same spot and the rip was shaped exactly like yours. Strange. Wonder if it has something to do with their shipping process? maybe the same disgruntled forklift driver happened to load both of our printers haha.
Maybe it's the forklift operator's signature :D
on the precision you compared 2 different filaments (colours) which can shrink differently. Also speed makes things less precise. Print with the same speed and compare, Use the same filament. Your argument.... Why should I pay 10 times the money if I have to print at the same speed. Because prototyping... Sometimes you have to test concepts to be able to modifie something and retry. Sometimes pecission is not the key. But I would try always the same filament to compare precission on 2 printers. an other point for shrinkage is the lifted ends. The layers pull on the botom layers which causes them to pull the ends up due to shrinkage of each layer. Each filament in each colour has a different value in shrinkage. In Cura slicer there is an option in compensation for Shrinkage. You design a part for example 240 mm long and 10 mm wide print it once in y direction and the other time in x direction. The shrinkage should be the same. Now you mesure and can ad a compensation in your slicer. This should be done for each filament. Very important printing ABS as there is a lot of shrinkage.
Thanks for your input. I used generic PLA for ender and bambu filament for X1C.I got to say that I did some suprisngly precise prints with abs using my old ender, no enclosure, no additional setup it just worked 🙂. BTW I did the XY roundness print with different PLA filaments and speed profiles on X1C and the difference was more less same. My solution is just simply scale the model till I figure out all the bells and whistles in the slicer
I found your video very satisfying to watch! I loved the comparison with the noise of your other toys, I mean, tools 🛠️ 😂❤ Keep it up!
Thank you! 😁
Excellent video, I’m looking to do the same. Replace/ retire my trusty ender 3 with an x1c in my machine shop. The ender is perfect for a small prototype projects and I’ve even printed soft jaws for light, small batch, aluminum cnc machining using PETG. The speed at which these bambu printers operate is definitely enticing, also I’m getting tired of babysitting my ender or worrying about it running unattended overnight. All the noise of novice, first time 3D printer owners was holding me back. Thank you for taking the time to create this video
Thank you for the feedback 🙂, I Hope you will be satisfied with the purchase!
That precision test that you did is completely inaccurate and invalid as the material has thermal expansion and contraction
The point was to test the out of the box performance and how much the machine itself compensate for the shrinkage. I tried to scale the model (just 100.2 %) and it works just fine. I'm overal happy with the printer. Anyway, thanks for the feedback.
Does Bambu studio not have a shrinkage section like orca?
@@CraysavI think so, but it was straight from the box testing. It could also be compensated by scaling.
Okay. I’m not super mechanically inclined so do you have any tips on how to do the tramming? I noticed Bambu has a wiki on the tramming. Did you attach the depth gauge then zero it out in the middle? Still confused on your reference measurement point. Thank you!
@@JustAnotherCraftsman you also used different filament which again invalidates the test
Your measurements and their inaccuracy from reference, is much more a product of thermal expansion in the filament. It’s shrinking as it cools. Hence, your ended prints more accurately than the x1. If you printed at the same speed between models, you’d likely see a result that much more realistically represents the abilities of the printers. When the bambu printed faster, each layer isn’t allowed to cool as much before the next layer is added
Thanks for the insight. I printed all the models with standard printing profile (200 mm/s), the only change i did is type of infill (gyroid). But it might be the reason, why ender ended up a little bit better.
the Qidi X max 3 is actually a fantastic deal, they seem to have ironed out most of the issues, if not all, from before with the 'smart' series (no longer sold) - and the Creality K1 - is problematic with it's frame design. You will have problems. as for Bambu - the hype is dying, and the Quality Control is going with it. They are starting to have more and more problems, and honestly - carbon fiber rods will always wear down - leaving that dust - not good in a printer. They should just stop using them and go to a thin, hollow, stainless steel rod instead. sure, a little more weight, but honestly, so much less problems for the future. and as you discovered, most the 'noise canceling' is nonsense, as until you replace the noisiest parts - the fans to keep it all cooled, not just part cooling but Electronics cooling - you will ALWAYS have noise, especially with little fans, making higher pitch noise. with modern printers "print quality is better" is actually a misleading thing - they all print the same. how well your machine is tuned to compensate for differences is the real issue - an out of tune machine, will print worse. How often you have to tune the machine, however, is where bambu and prusa sort of excel at - you typically tune them once, and leave them for a long period of time, unlike Creality machines, where you might need to tune them daily.
I noticed that the belt positioning on the tensioning bearings on your x1c isn’t centred. Did you re-adjust the belts or did it come like this from the factory? Cheers!
Right from the factory, thanks for the info, I'll better check it.
So the flatness of the bed on the X1C is an absolute lottery. Some are much flatter than others and it’s just the luck of the draw if you get one that’s as good as this one. I have a few X1Cs and they’re all quite flat front to back but not flat left the right. One of them has a dip in the center of the bed that’s over 1mm. Truly awful. This needs sorting out for gen 2 of this printer.
I've read numerous threads about bended beds in initial wave of pre-orders. In my situation, the bed is reasonably flat in the front (left-right orientation) due to the presence of rails and a Z screw. The same can be said for the front-back orientation in the center. However, the far edges pose a challenge as there is inadequate support, and the bed itself exhibits some springiness. Introducing a tall and heavy print may cause deflection in the opposite direction, assuming good adhesion, of course. The bad thing is, that you cannot get the "banana" out of the bed. 1 mm is a lot. BTW I'm not sure how much is "replacement bed" much and also, the procedure of bed exchange is probably hell.
So do you think the p1s and p1p have the same bed problems?
@@JustAnotherCraftsman yeah, changing the bed is something I’m considering. But it’s a hell job on these like changing the belts which I’ve done @4000 hrs. It is a OCT 2022 model this one. Not pre release. I hope they’ve improved the QC on this for the newer models. It’s also worth mentioning that once the bed is up to temperature the mesh and flatness could be completely different anyway. It might deflect with heat. The printer does a good job of compensating for this issue so for most people it would never be an issue. But I noticed areas on the first layer infill which were over filled and some which were under filled. My other X1Cs seem better.
@@baremetaltechtv I only have one P1 and the bed is not flat but not too bad either. I suspect Bambu labs have replaced so many bad beds now that they’re making an effort to make sure they go out flatter.
@@baremetaltechtv I don't see much complains about banana bend from current batches. I think, that they somehow figured it out. Also, my bed was incorrectly trammed from production. But if you refer to far edges, yes, they are a bit springy, but i don't think that there is currently corexy printer in the price range of P1S not having the same problem, there is simply no support, except for the rigidity of the bed itself. If there are users of other brands with different experience, please correct me. Also keep in mind, that not every combo of operator+milling machine is able to make (aluminium/steel) part parallel within 0.1 mm (top bottom) at 220 mm distance and I'm talking about 2 tons cast iron machines. Here we have 14 kg machine that is almost capable of doing it (in plastic of course), as you can see from measurements I did in the video on granite surface plate. And at the end it condenses down to what are you planning to print. My aim is mostly engineering stuff, models for PLA lost/ sand casting etc., so the flatness do matter in my case.
I couldn't live with that little rough patch in the middle of the face.
It is a trade off between look and not removing too much
I've been looking up a lot of machining stuff, I'm not involved in it, just interests me. The main thing I'm wondering is how do you keep everything centered in the holes? Do you use the bit you used to make all the holes on the plate to line each hole back up for the inner hole to be drilled? Anyway that's my guess, unless I'm underestimating the accuracy of these milling machines and after using that wobbly bit (think it's called an edge finder), which I'm guessing in this case was to square the plate to the machine? the machinist would work backwards from the main holes drilling the center hole of the last main hole and then finding each adjacent hole's center by using the markings and a calculated amount of turns of the wheel of the cross slide (which I guess would be determined by the hole spacing). That seems overly complicated though when there's the first way, though I don't know if that's how it's done hence the original ? coming to mind.
Hello Mikea, I always use a center drill to initiate a hole. To ensure geometrical accuracy all my machines are equipped with a DRO (digital readout), enabling precise positioning on any coordinates. Here's the approach: first, locate the corner's coordinates using an edge finder (surprisingly accurate, with a precision of approximately +-0.01 mm). Zero the x and y axes for that corner. In the case of the drawing plate, I utilized the pattern function, which takes the number of holes and the distance between them as input. Once configured, you can switch between hole numbers, and it provides the new coordinates to reach. It's a simple and efficient method :)
@@JustAnotherCraftsman Thanks for the reply and sorry if my ?'s don't make sense as I don't have machines yet and I'm trying to work this out in my head. I can see the finding the corner's coordinates using the edge finder in the video, do you only need that one corner and the pattern function calculates the coordinates of a basically infinite grid from that point? (I ask because my mind is having trouble understanding how it would know to move down a row if it doesn't have an end point). Next ?, Is that the center drill at 11:42? because you're about to drill the first holes but the edge finder doesn't come in until later when you drill to size. (Was the edge finding and pattern function done for this part too just not shown?) Another ?, at 12:11 after drilling all the first holes when you flip the plate it looks like it's also drilled slightly on the other side, if that's the case and the DRO is involved at this point in the process, are you basically flipping the plate and going through the same edge finding and the pattern function process and everything lines up correctly on the flip side? is the flipped side where you drilling the holes to size through not the deeper hole side?
привет классный станок жальгирис 6т10 или 6р10
Really useful review! Great many thanks 😮
Very impressive for a small bench saw.
Love it .. as a retired Bank Manager who has no metal working skills at all , I am becoming obsessed with anvils .. I think I need help!! 😳😵💫😂👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👍🏻
Thank you! No unusual condition, let it run its course :D
Verry cool!
Tank you 🙂
یہ آہرن کہاں سے ملے گی اور اس کی کیا قیمت ہے
Do you onow how to calibrate it? Mine is measuring incorrectly
Man I give it up to you for forging it from rail track ,I’m about to do one with a wrought gun barrel section This weekend!!
Good luck! 🙂👍
Dont know why but I love an anvil restoration 👍👍🤣👌
Me too 🙂
@@JustAnotherCraftsman I've also seen your silver dice..!! I also have a thing for dice 🎲 LOL 😆
Me too man, me too.
@@moonlight5050 What a coincidence! 😀
Such a beautiful job and then you put it back on the rats nest with those rusty brackets. I cringed.
I had no sturdier brackets at the moment, so... Sorry for the cringe time
Fits together like a square peg in a round hole
Still could be done within a thou 😉
This saw is terribly put together, cheep crap the sliding extension dosnt work I put mine on and had to batter it off with a hammer, cheep shite that dosnt work , the blade spins that's about it don't buy this rubbish it cost about £20 to produce and then sell it for 4 times the amount , it crap don't buy unless you like being ripped off!
determine the brand yet?
Not realy
just get some metal wheels and ground the table I think that will work
You need to do one for the ground it is what holding you back a little bit
Yeah, grounding is a little bit sloppy, It could be done more elegantly
Nice tube cutting jig. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Thank you! :)
Muy buena idea, Felicitaciones ¡¡¡¡