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Thank you, appreciate 🙂. My channel is long time driven by my curiosity and by being unable to stay still. It would be nice, but I don't expect it. But I'll definitely work on constant improvment 🙂.

Thank you! I'm new to bronze structures, so I might be wrong, but my guess is relation to beta, gama, delta crystal structure change. I'm not sure about beta, but delta is relatively fragile so volumetric change plus fragility might be the cause. Another reason might that it is broken into a pore behind it.

Hello David, Thank you for your feedback! I would say that apart from the peripheral porosity, probably caused by the violent burning of the petrobond sand, it is fairly homogeneous. There is no systematic distribution of individual phases. Here and there there are random areas enriched with delta phase, so there are literally islands of alpha surrounded by light blue colored delta, but other than that, and some random cracks, it's similar. There is one interesting phenomenon that I forgot to mention, the streaked lines that look like smudges revealing the different orientation of the dendrites. I'm planning a follow-up video showing the changes caused by annealing and peening... somehow I'm hooked by the topic :), because it kind of intersects with my daily job.

Hello Scott, sandcasting will be just fine, but you not gonna avoid some file work. I bet on hammering it into the shape. It helps to even the surface, but be carefull, because you may end up with rhombohedron. Anyway good luck and enjoy! There is something about molten metal. Btw if you have someone with 3d printer, they could help you with the model.

@@JustAnotherCraftsman Thank you for the fast reply. Yes, I do know someone who has a 3d printer. I DO! I'm using PLA filament and things don't come out perfectly smooth. So should I print it, cast it and then smooth it out?

@@scotts1356 I'd smooth the printed cube with emery cloth to remove line effect. Also, do You plan to cast it in halved mold with intake and vents or just imprint in sand remove and cast?

@@JustAnotherCraftsman I was planning on using the 2 piece metal jewelry casting mold. Imprint in it, remove the dice and pour. Make sense? I printed a cube and sanded it down. It took a little bit of time, but it came out nice and smooth. I figured it would be easier to smooth it before I poured it. Smoothing out silver can be time consuming. Now if I can get a "smooth" pour, I'll be happy!

@@scotts1356 Than you are set for the best results! Please let me know how did it go. Good luck!

Happy to help 🙂

Yes, you are correct :). I took a chance on connecting specific blue color with pun of crys-knife crys-tal and idea for a video, that was in my mind for quite a long time.

... and most importantly, unfortunately there are no big sandworms where I live :(

@@JustAnotherCraftsman That is an abject tragedy... But thankfully, they might be chemically similar anyways!! In an expanded lore book, they described their bodies as being furnace-like. For all we know, they might actually be able to smelt metals in their stomachs!

@@Monderoth I am not familiar with the lore, so thank you for your insight, love it! 🙂

You won the comment section! 😆

It is actually on my to do list :)

Thank you for the feedback. Yes, I plan to make some special dies for fullering knives/swords

Thank you so much! 🙂

Absolutely, I use mixture of 950 g of sodium hydroxide and 50 g of potassium nitrate dissolved in 1 liter of water. Clean the part thouroughly an imers it in boiling solution keep it there for 15-20 minutes and if it is not done yet give it longer time. Keep in mind that not every steel has same response on hot bluing. Be super careful, because you are playing with concentrated hot base, avoid any sputter.

Thanks,I've tried the cold blue and wasn't satisfied and ended up painting with with acrylic enamel flat black. Not the look, I'll try your method next time.@@JustAnotherCraftsman

It is an old Hauser boring head with MT1. There are many options out there, it depends what are your needs 🙂. You can find them cheap on aliexpress and similar platforms. Boring head or boring bar, as you've mentioned, is the correct term.

Thank You , I was wondering about the angle. The inserts could be purchased for the material. I enjoy your page. Thank You for your reply.@@JustAnotherCraftsman

Man, I gave you info on different tool, I just realized 😂. It is inner boring bar for lathe. I bought one from Beyond aliexpress store. I have long time good experience with them. The price is good for the quality. I don't remember exact type, but I can look once I get home. Thank you for the feedback 🙂

Thank You@@JustAnotherCraftsman

Thank you for the feedback. You are correct, it is probably more often referred as smithin' magician

Hi, I'll try to dig it out and send it to you, but I am not 100 % sure if I still have it.

Maybe it's the forklift operator's signature :D

Thanks for your input. I used generic PLA for ender and bambu filament for X1C.I got to say that I did some suprisngly precise prints with abs using my old ender, no enclosure, no additional setup it just worked 🙂. BTW I did the XY roundness print with different PLA filaments and speed profiles on X1C and the difference was more less same. My solution is just simply scale the model till I figure out all the bells and whistles in the slicer

Thank you! 😁

Thank you for the feedback 🙂, I Hope you will be satisfied with the purchase!

The point was to test the out of the box performance and how much the machine itself compensate for the shrinkage. I tried to scale the model (just 100.2 %) and it works just fine. I'm overal happy with the printer. Anyway, thanks for the feedback.

Does Bambu studio not have a shrinkage section like orca?

@@CraysavI think so, but it was straight from the box testing. It could also be compensated by scaling.

Okay. I’m not super mechanically inclined so do you have any tips on how to do the tramming? I noticed Bambu has a wiki on the tramming. Did you attach the depth gauge then zero it out in the middle? Still confused on your reference measurement point. Thank you!

@@JustAnotherCraftsman you also used different filament which again invalidates the test

Thanks for the insight. I printed all the models with standard printing profile (200 mm/s), the only change i did is type of infill (gyroid). But it might be the reason, why ender ended up a little bit better.

Right from the factory, thanks for the info, I'll better check it.

I've read numerous threads about bended beds in initial wave of pre-orders. In my situation, the bed is reasonably flat in the front (left-right orientation) due to the presence of rails and a Z screw. The same can be said for the front-back orientation in the center. However, the far edges pose a challenge as there is inadequate support, and the bed itself exhibits some springiness. Introducing a tall and heavy print may cause deflection in the opposite direction, assuming good adhesion, of course. The bad thing is, that you cannot get the "banana" out of the bed. 1 mm is a lot. BTW I'm not sure how much is "replacement bed" much and also, the procedure of bed exchange is probably hell.

So do you think the p1s and p1p have the same bed problems?

@@JustAnotherCraftsman yeah, changing the bed is something I’m considering. But it’s a hell job on these like changing the belts which I’ve done @4000 hrs. It is a OCT 2022 model this one. Not pre release. I hope they’ve improved the QC on this for the newer models. It’s also worth mentioning that once the bed is up to temperature the mesh and flatness could be completely different anyway. It might deflect with heat. The printer does a good job of compensating for this issue so for most people it would never be an issue. But I noticed areas on the first layer infill which were over filled and some which were under filled. My other X1Cs seem better.

@@baremetaltechtv I only have one P1 and the bed is not flat but not too bad either. I suspect Bambu labs have replaced so many bad beds now that they’re making an effort to make sure they go out flatter.

@@baremetaltechtv I don't see much complains about banana bend from current batches. I think, that they somehow figured it out. Also, my bed was incorrectly trammed from production. But if you refer to far edges, yes, they are a bit springy, but i don't think that there is currently corexy printer in the price range of P1S not having the same problem, there is simply no support, except for the rigidity of the bed itself. If there are users of other brands with different experience, please correct me. Also keep in mind, that not every combo of operator+milling machine is able to make (aluminium/steel) part parallel within 0.1 mm (top bottom) at 220 mm distance and I'm talking about 2 tons cast iron machines. Here we have 14 kg machine that is almost capable of doing it (in plastic of course), as you can see from measurements I did in the video on granite surface plate. And at the end it condenses down to what are you planning to print. My aim is mostly engineering stuff, models for PLA lost/ sand casting etc., so the flatness do matter in my case.

It is a trade off between look and not removing too much

Hello Mikea, I always use a center drill to initiate a hole. To ensure geometrical accuracy all my machines are equipped with a DRO (digital readout), enabling precise positioning on any coordinates. Here's the approach: first, locate the corner's coordinates using an edge finder (surprisingly accurate, with a precision of approximately +-0.01 mm). Zero the x and y axes for that corner. In the case of the drawing plate, I utilized the pattern function, which takes the number of holes and the distance between them as input. Once configured, you can switch between hole numbers, and it provides the new coordinates to reach. It's a simple and efficient method :)

@@JustAnotherCraftsman Thanks for the reply and sorry if my ?'s don't make sense as I don't have machines yet and I'm trying to work this out in my head. I can see the finding the corner's coordinates using the edge finder in the video, do you only need that one corner and the pattern function calculates the coordinates of a basically infinite grid from that point? (I ask because my mind is having trouble understanding how it would know to move down a row if it doesn't have an end point). Next ?, Is that the center drill at 11:42? because you're about to drill the first holes but the edge finder doesn't come in until later when you drill to size. (Was the edge finding and pattern function done for this part too just not shown?) Another ?, at 12:11 after drilling all the first holes when you flip the plate it looks like it's also drilled slightly on the other side, if that's the case and the DRO is involved at this point in the process, are you basically flipping the plate and going through the same edge finding and the pattern function process and everything lines up correctly on the flip side? is the flipped side where you drilling the holes to size through not the deeper hole side?

Thank you! No unusual condition, let it run its course :D

Tank you 🙂

Good luck! 🙂👍

Me too 🙂

@@JustAnotherCraftsman I've also seen your silver dice..!! I also have a thing for dice 🎲 LOL 😆

Me too man, me too.

@@moonlight5050 What a coincidence! 😀

I had no sturdier brackets at the moment, so... Sorry for the cringe time

Still could be done within a thou 😉

Not realy

Yeah, grounding is a little bit sloppy, It could be done more elegantly

Thank you! :)