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Thanks for taking us along, Andy.

Thanknyou again for sharing your knowledge with us.

good video Andy..thanks for your time

Happy days Andrew buddy, thanks for sharing, and best wishes to you and yours Ralfy

Looks good , would a stand under the boom not be a good idea?

Have you ever set your beard on fire welding or grinding?

Great video Andy !!

That Climax looks to be a nice unit. What are your thoughts on the Chinese line boring/welders? For guys just starting out, are worth the money, or no, in your opinion?

Great video! this looked like a tough challenge. Always interesting to see what curve balls the environment throws you.

In case I missed or you didn't sat what's your depth of cut on facing. It's either dictated by available hp or facing tool flex,.and which do you think you would run into first

You need to add a piece of leather to the bottom of your welding helmet to protect your beard. How’s wiggles getting on with his painting ? 👍🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

Great video man, I've got hundreds of new old stock Timken bearings of all different sizes if you need a couple holler at me..

Excellent job, I had to make a set for my Cincinnati tray top lathe, did them the same way..

Great deals, my shop is 40×40' 3 lathes two milling machines, I do alot of hydraulic cylinder repair, great video, keep'um coming.

Great score there, great video..

Great video man, keep'um coming..

I bought some round inserts that are 1/2" square inside from MSC. They can be adjusted with setscrew and they work well..great video.

Fun and games. Interesting to watch you problem solve.

Nice setup. 👍

Happy days Andrew buddy, great job there, well done mate, thanks for sharing 👍

I have a 10" x 12" x 8' long boring bar I use on the lathe once in a while boring out 36" diameter bronze bushings.

“That would be a big heavy duty NO” …… lol I don’t know why but I laughed so hard. Never heard that one before

They sell square tool bit sleeves that insert in a hole in the bar... even have a set screw for advancing the bit

28:35 man than is scaredy, I have used the same press for broaching, but only key ways, the effort you are using would make me think that the broaching was ready to snap any moment….

Use hydraulic jack from spindle to push key cutter thru..

So great to see Mr Wiggles working on his project….you are a wonderful dad to be introducing him to machining and giving him his own lathe….best wishes, Paul

Wiggles cameo was great. Love the new format (Music overlay) you got going. Hats off the to the one responsible. Always something unique here. Thanks for the video....

Ouch at 12:10!! Interesting fix with that concrete drill bit. Hi, Wiggles, and nice paint job!! Great job, Andy and Alison! Love the music that plays during the time lapse portions. Have you thought of the following: What about asking your audience for a list of suggested music to play during future time lapse portions? Maybe a cool way to get your audience "interactively" involved, lol! Maybe someone already suggested this?

What is that little drill sharpener you used? I need one I think. I thought for sure broaching on the mill would work.

Cranking the work and videos out…Thanks, Paul

Excellent video! It really pays to be able to do everything in house. The broaching doesn't look fun. That material is a whole lot harder than the cast iron gear we put the key way in. The editing department has just the right amount of music while still letting us hear the machines work and have you explain what is happening.

I like the new gear opening video to your episodes! Your content is great!

Great video Andy ...

I have bars with tool holes both ways offset and straight. to be honest with you if they are in a straight line it's no big deal. The early Climax bars were that way. When I bought mine way back in 1996 we used round tool holes and a 3/8 or 1/4" square broached tool sleeve you can buy from MSC. The fixture that climax sold to drill the bars left the holes in a line. I still use the original bars and have some drilled with holes every two inches for two or more feet of the bar and there is no problem with bar bending or warping or acting odd in any way. My 1 1/4" bars are all bored this way. In the past 15 years or so the 2 1/4" bars are mostly 1/2 square broached because 1/2 inch tools are longer and much more rigid. I bought the square broached bars them from Climax simply for connivence and add holes when needed. Now there are, dare I say better and less expensive sources if you cannot make your own. If you have two holes going at the same time and no central support with bars bored in a straight line, tool pressure can push them around a bit more and can bore the holes small or chatter some etc... Perhaps the offset holes help mitigate that I never investigated, if there is room I add a support.. I found that if I rough out multiple holes in one setting, I can finish them individually if need be. it pays to experiment if that crops up. My two cents worth anyway. Cheers

???? Where did you get keyed crome rod. My crome rod suplloer could not get

I'm impressed with the fact that it's a standard shank and way more powerful than it appears. Please do another review in about a year with your Vevor tools and show how they hold up.

That's impressive for that kind of money. My Jancey Slugger is so heavy and the throw isn't near that much.

I would be more interested if it came with imperial. I feel like I am an outcast for not saying yea metric.

Looks nice! For the cost, I'm going to look into getting one for our physics/engineering shop.

I bought one and liked it so much I bought another one. Like you I have a Milwaukee, a Hougen and an ancient B&D. The weight, the extended vertical capacity and the compact size make it a winner. The two main reasons I bought though? #1 The weight/size #2 The Milwaukee burned out the control board for the second time. The new board is $380 and I'm not paying that again. The little coolant bottle works good too, but I did modify mine. I bolted a 2x3 inch piece of 1/8 steel where it mounts on the drill and added a flat pot magnet to the bottle holder along with a longer hose. That way I can use the bottle even when I'm not using the drill vertical. by simply sticking the bottle to a nearby piece of steel.

Looks like the one howees machine just did a video on.

Great review! Way to see what it will really do!

Wow , the adjustment on height is fantastic, I am sold, going to have to buy one…

I paid $1,000 for the smallest Jancy, and now, have issues with when magnet is turned on, drill motor starts…very inconvenient to say the least

Well, 3/4” is very close to 19mm…so maybe they used 19mm?…19.05 mm

I paid $130 for a Jacobs style chuck adapter made in India for Jancy , for my Jancy Slugger….it is a real valuable asset for a mag drill in my opinion when you need smaller holes , I have used with carbide grit hole saws with the standard hole saw shank for drilling through through the inner concrete layer of safes…..very handy….Paul

Impressived! Gotta check it out.

John up in Alaska Howeesmachineshop did a demo last week of using one of these as a motor for line boring…

Alwayss great Andy..Paul

They sent me the same one, I love it. Good review