If you cut a piece of ply with a hole 1-2mm bigger than the bottom out side width of the cone, then clamped it down to the drill press plate, making sure the off set is measured then dropped the cone in side this ply gig, Then you had some thing to stop the cone being ground at the sides any further than needed and would be evenly metal removed from the in side, because you have no gig its impossible to be sure metal have been taken away evenly, But very impressed `great job given how you managed to get the end result with what you had. I will state that any one trying this make sure the shaft on the cutter is not cheap metal as you won`t want it getting hot and bending as this could end up being very dangerous,
Thanks for the comment! That's an interesting idea! You are right, I am sure my enlargement is not perfectly centered. But for the manual tire changer it is not too big a deal. If you were using these on a wheel balancer thought that would be much more important! Good idea!
I 3D printed my cones, and they work just fine. I did cut the area were the pin for the wheel stud hole goes and made it into a slot. That way i can drop a stud in there and secure the wheel with a lug nut. I thought it would need at least 2, but with just one and a good fitting cone works fine.
Anyone watching this video, please be aware a drill press used like this with side loads and vibration can cause the drill chuck to loosen and fall out. Spinning at that RPM with your hand around it with a carbide bit. Not a good combination. Let's be safe and Let's go Brandon!!! Great idea on the cone conversion.
Good Job. I appreciate what you did on milling job. Probably too late to the party, but what if you clamped a couple C-Clamps on the Base of your drill press spaced the distance needed, then just push and turn the spacers until its evenly up against the clamps?
@@JohnsDIY I may be trying it myself soon. Good to know the cones can be obtained easy enough. I'll be putting my own tire changer together as I have several cars, trailers, and a bike. Even the cheapest place charges $10 to mount, but around $15-$20 to balance. I have old VW's and finding a place that can balance the old wide 5 rims is closer to $50-$60 per wheel mount and balanced!!!. There is an adapter plate for them readily available though. I believe I will also be investing in a dynamic balancer since just one tire change it will have paid for itself. Just the time saved by doing myself instead of waiting for someone else to scratch my rims makes it so worthwhile. Also, wanted to say thanks for the Duck head comparison too. Most helpful
@@gregboswell2843 Thanks for your comments Greg! Wow, $50-$60 is tough! I purchased the Atlas hand spin wheel balancer. I was a little concerned how good it would be and it isn't a cheap investment (though if you change a lot of tires I think it can pay itself off in a reasonable amount of time). However, I have found it to work great. I haven't had a single case of any noticeable vibration at all. It seems to be very consistent and repeatable. I also don't find the hand spinning to be any bother at all.
@@JohnsDIY That is perfect. Was looking at getting an electric dynamic balancer, but I don't mind spinning the wheel. One less thing to worry about and it is a smaller more compact machine too. Thanks for the tip
I used my porter cable router turned upside down, spins a lot faster make quick work, drill press to slow bur bit needs to spin very fast also gets hot wear gloves
I see a stand of HF Tire Changer (~@2:44) without a small rod, so you removed it as many people do. But I don't see any holes made to attach the wheel to the stand w/1-2 bolts instead of that small rod. Do you use it without any bolts to secure the wheel. Is it sufficient to use just the aluminum cone you have to secure the wheel from rotation when you change the tire. I also plan to remove that bolt, it is not centered properly (at least for the wheel I'm working with), kind of under the angle, bearly fitting the lug nut hole. I bought already the bolts for the machine instead of that rod, but I saw in other films occasionally that the stand is without any rod or bolts, just curious. Maybe that rod (or bolt(s)) is needed only for very large tires. Thank you for your informative film.
You're only removing a little over 1mil. around the circumference of the bore, just clamp them in a vice and use a coarse grit cylindrical drum in any sort of rotary tool.
Well done thank you can you tell me what size length is the carbide burr? I have a piece of aluminium was going to use for centring cone with a smaller centre hole do those burrs work on grinding aluminium? Thanks
Hi Don, Here are a few links that look to be the same as the ones I got. There are quite a few different sellers, but at least from the pictures they look to all be the same: www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-Wheel-Balancer-Taper-Cone-Kit-Standard-Tools-40mm-Shaft-Accuturn-Coats-New/163871269140 www.ebay.com/itm/Coats-Wheel-Balancer-Standard-Taper-Shaft-Accuturn-Wheel-Repair-Cone-inner-40mm/264500562456
It depends on the bore of the rim (the size of the center hub hole) not so much the diameter. So if you look up the bore size for your wheels, then you should be able to figure out which cones would work based on the following cone sizes: Smallest = 1.77" to 2.46" Next = 2.05" to 3.15" Next = 3.09" to 4.13" Largest = 2.91" to 5.39"
Those cones you are drilling out (fm/ebay), are they aluminum cones? They don't look like. Are you supposed to use additional protection not to scratch aluminum wheel when you use those? Thank you for your film.
@@JohnsDIY - Hi, yea, any bit would work but thats hard steel and that bur lasted a long time. Its a proven burr/brand, I wanted to try to make sre I got the same one! Thanks for the response.
I am sure they are $150 a set at some place! Probably even more other places! Looking up my eBay purchase history, I bought the set shown in the video for $46.00 on October 13, 2019 with free shipping. It looks like the same set is now available on eBay for $54-$57 with free shipping (assuming you are in the US). I don't think TH-cam will allow me to post a link here but if you just do a basic google or eBay search for "4pcs Wheel Balancer Taper Cone Kit Standard Tools 40mm Shaft Accuturn Coats New" you should see lots of results for well under $150.
Here is a link to the set I purchased: www.ebay.com/itm/163871269140 Actually, looking a few comments down yours, there are links to some other options as well, currently in the $50 price range.
A lathe and a boring bar would be quicker, more convenient and above all, safer and a lot more accurate and concentric. Having seen some nasty workshop accidents in my time, i couldn't watch the rest of this, hope you remained intact!
Yep, good point! I wish I had a lathe and boring bar, that would definitely be the way to go! Appreciate the comment! I did remain intact, but understand your concerns!
Good point Dan, thanks for the comment. It is good to make people aware of that safety concern and I appreciate you taking the time to make that comment.
Thanks Ron, Good point and thanks for noting that safety tip for other viewers. As others have noted as well, it is generally advised to not wear gloves when operating a drill press out of fear that they could get entangled in the bit. I'll add a note to that effect in the description as well. Thanks.
If you cut a piece of ply with a hole 1-2mm bigger than the bottom out side width of the cone, then clamped it down to the drill press plate, making sure the off set is measured then dropped the cone in side this ply gig,
Then you had some thing to stop the cone being ground at the sides any further than needed and would be evenly metal removed from the in side,
because you have no gig its impossible to be sure metal have been taken away evenly,
But very impressed `great job given how you managed to get the end result with what you had.
I will state that any one trying this make sure the shaft on the cutter is not cheap metal as you won`t want it getting hot and bending as this could end up being very dangerous,
Thanks for the comment! That's an interesting idea! You are right, I am sure my enlargement is not perfectly centered. But for the manual tire changer it is not too big a deal. If you were using these on a wheel balancer thought that would be much more important! Good idea!
Perfect video, exactly what I was looking for! Thanks for your time and sharing how you did this.
Thanks for the nice comment Jared! Appreciate it!
I 3D printed my cones, and they work just fine. I did cut the area were the pin for the wheel stud hole goes and made it into a slot. That way i can drop a stud in there and secure the wheel with a lug nut. I thought it would need at least 2, but with just one and a good fitting cone works fine.
Cool idea! Thanks for posting. That's a great idea for anyone handy with a 3D printer!
@tuloko16 do you sell those cones?
Thanks, John, love your out of the box thinking. I have a drill press and carbide bits. I really appreciate your effort in making this video!
Nice work well done.
Anyone watching this video, please be aware a drill press used like this with side loads and vibration can cause the drill chuck to loosen and fall out. Spinning at that RPM with your hand around it with a carbide bit. Not a good combination. Let's be safe and Let's go Brandon!!! Great idea on the cone conversion.
Very cool vid ,
Thanks 🙏
Thanks for the comment!
Good Job. I appreciate what you did on milling job. Probably too late to the party, but what if you clamped a couple C-Clamps on the Base of your drill press spaced the distance needed, then just push and turn the spacers until its evenly up against the clamps?
Thanks Greg, interesting idea!
@@JohnsDIY I may be trying it myself soon. Good to know the cones can be obtained easy enough. I'll be putting my own tire changer together as I have several cars, trailers, and a bike. Even the cheapest place charges $10 to mount, but around $15-$20 to balance. I have old VW's and finding a place that can balance the old wide 5 rims is closer to $50-$60 per wheel mount and balanced!!!. There is an adapter plate for them readily available though. I believe I will also be investing in a dynamic balancer since just one tire change it will have paid for itself.
Just the time saved by doing myself instead of waiting for someone else to scratch my rims makes it so worthwhile. Also, wanted to say thanks for the Duck head comparison too. Most helpful
@@gregboswell2843 Thanks for your comments Greg! Wow, $50-$60 is tough! I purchased the Atlas hand spin wheel balancer. I was a little concerned how good it would be and it isn't a cheap investment (though if you change a lot of tires I think it can pay itself off in a reasonable amount of time). However, I have found it to work great. I haven't had a single case of any noticeable vibration at all. It seems to be very consistent and repeatable. I also don't find the hand spinning to be any bother at all.
@@JohnsDIY That is perfect. Was looking at getting an electric dynamic balancer, but I don't mind spinning the wheel. One less thing to worry about and it is a smaller more compact machine too. Thanks for the tip
i have the carbide bits, but no drill press, damn
I used my porter cable router turned upside down, spins a lot faster make quick work, drill press to slow bur bit needs to spin very fast also gets hot wear gloves
Interesting idea! Makes a lot of sense. Thanks for the comment!
Nice work! I wonder if the main shaft would be thick enough to grind a few mm off. It would save alot of work.
Thanks and good point! That might be another way to tackle it!
I see a stand of HF Tire Changer (~@2:44) without a small rod, so you removed it as many people do. But I don't see any holes made to attach the wheel to the stand w/1-2 bolts instead of that small rod. Do you use it without any bolts to secure the wheel. Is it sufficient to use just the aluminum cone you have to secure the wheel from rotation when you change the tire. I also plan to remove that bolt, it is not centered properly (at least for the wheel I'm working with), kind of under the angle, bearly fitting the lug nut hole. I bought already the bolts for the machine instead of that rod, but I saw in other films occasionally that the stand is without any rod or bolts, just curious. Maybe that rod (or bolt(s)) is needed only for very large tires. Thank you for your informative film.
You're only removing a little over 1mil. around the circumference of the bore, just clamp them in a vice and use a coarse grit cylindrical drum in any sort of rotary tool.
I'll 3D print, my own cones as needed!
Good idea, someone else commented that they had done that and it worked well for them! Thanks for the comment.
Well done thank you can you tell me what size length is the carbide burr? I have a piece of aluminium was going to use for centring cone with a smaller centre hole do those burrs work on grinding aluminium? Thanks
Would you share a link to the cones? I’m having trouble locating them. Thanks for the idea!
Hi Don,
Here are a few links that look to be the same as the ones I got. There are quite a few different sellers, but at least from the pictures they look to all be the same:
www.ebay.com/itm/4pcs-Wheel-Balancer-Taper-Cone-Kit-Standard-Tools-40mm-Shaft-Accuturn-Coats-New/163871269140
www.ebay.com/itm/Coats-Wheel-Balancer-Standard-Taper-Shaft-Accuturn-Wheel-Repair-Cone-inner-40mm/264500562456
A Link for the boring tool would have been useful.
Out of the four cones, which one will best fit a 15 inch and a 16 inch rim?
It depends on the bore of the rim (the size of the center hub hole) not so much the diameter. So if you look up the bore size for your wheels, then you should be able to figure out which cones would work based on the following cone sizes:
Smallest = 1.77" to 2.46"
Next = 2.05" to 3.15"
Next = 3.09" to 4.13"
Largest = 2.91" to 5.39"
Those cones you are drilling out (fm/ebay), are they aluminum cones? They don't look like. Are you supposed to use additional protection not to scratch aluminum wheel when you use those? Thank you for your film.
Hi. What brand carbide tip did you use?
I believe it was from the following Astro set, but I think any carbide burr would work fine.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00061SFKK
@@JohnsDIY - Hi, yea, any bit would work but thats hard steel and that bur lasted a long time. Its a proven burr/brand, I wanted to try to make sre I got the same one! Thanks for the response.
@@mistersniffer6838 Yep, that makes sense! If was definitely either the Astro Tools Burr or this one:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C1LQGNP
@@JohnsDIY - cool cool, thanks again and happy new year! :)
I must get a drill press.
You don't need those cones. Did my ram 2500 without them. Line it up even. I need something for my tire balancer for the bigger rim holes
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
These cones are $150 a set. Not sure where you get yours.
I am sure they are $150 a set at some place! Probably even more other places! Looking up my eBay purchase history, I bought the set shown in the video for $46.00 on October 13, 2019 with free shipping. It looks like the same set is now available on eBay for $54-$57 with free shipping (assuming you are in the US). I don't think TH-cam will allow me to post a link here but if you just do a basic google or eBay search for "4pcs Wheel Balancer Taper Cone Kit Standard Tools 40mm Shaft Accuturn Coats New" you should see lots of results for well under $150.
Here is a link to the set I purchased:
www.ebay.com/itm/163871269140
Actually, looking a few comments down yours, there are links to some other options as well, currently in the $50 price range.
Checked EBay and found a set of 8 tapers from China for $26.99 usd.
It probably would've been quicker if you clamped the cone in a bench vise and use a die grinder or an electric drill
What are the cones made of, I only can find the carbon steel is that what you have. Where did you purchase the burr
The cones I got said #45 Carbon Steel in the description. I think the burr I got was from the following link:
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C1LQGNP/
A lathe and a boring bar would be quicker, more convenient and above all, safer and a lot more accurate and concentric. Having seen some nasty workshop accidents in my time, i couldn't watch the rest of this, hope you remained intact!
Yep, good point! I wish I had a lathe and boring bar, that would definitely be the way to go! Appreciate the comment! I did remain intact, but understand your concerns!
I lost the cone that came with mine I'm gonna try this instead of buying another one
Ebay wants $100 for 4 cones!!! So expensive.
Gloves should NEVER be worn when operating a drill press.
Good point Dan, thanks for the comment. It is good to make people aware of that safety concern and I appreciate you taking the time to make that comment.
How bout losing the gloves so it just peels a bunch of skin instead of ripping your fingers out by the roots! So,,, very unsafe.
Thanks Ron, Good point and thanks for noting that safety tip for other viewers. As others have noted as well, it is generally advised to not wear gloves when operating a drill press out of fear that they could get entangled in the bit. I'll add a note to that effect in the description as well. Thanks.