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Great video! I know this is an old video but I just found your great channel and will be getting into astrophotography with my Nikon z50. I've been reading about the internal intervalometer and I've seen that in order to get a 30 second exposure you have to set your interval time longer than 30 seconds so I'm just wondering if you could tell me what you set your interval time to in the z50 to achieve 30 second exposures. Thanks!

i had many issues with the phone app, the goto function never worked well, now im using Green Swamp server to connect to the mount and Nina, my main question is, everytime i want to change target, do i have to go back to park position before changing? otherwise it seems like the mount goes over the meridian and the gears just gets stuck in the limits, did you encounter this problem too?

Steven, thank you for a very helpful, hands-on video. Just got my SA GTI and AsiAir+ and am trying to connect everything. Question, if I may: you connected the AA+ to the GTI's USB port. I've seen people using instead the GTI's Hand Cntrl port w/ a cable w/ an RJ45 connector at the end. Is that immaterial for operating the mount w/ the AA+? Thank you!

Tnx! I’ll try that.

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There's a good storm happening atm! Auroras seen as far north as Perth.

Hey I noticed u use a full frame on the evolux 62ed how was the vignetting?

Synscan pro driver seems to no longer be available. 🤔

Hi and thanks for a nice intro. I am considering buying the GTI and am missing some vital info. - About the ASIAIR to GTI cable, does it need to be an "EQ mod cable" or are you using a standard USB cable? - Also, I have built a complete unit with a DSLR camera, a ZWO ASIAIR Plus and a ZWO ASI120MM guide camera with a 30mm guiding scope. Have you tried controlling the GTI this way or can you perceive any problems? - Finally :) I also connect my Canon EOS via cable to the ASIAIR Plus and would like to run the Polar Alignment via the focus mode in the ASIAIR app, do you see any problems using it like that to polar align? Many thanks in advance from Up Over...

You sir rock, My damned CPWI focuser stopped working with NINA and connecting through ASCOM HUB fixed it. Great call.

Amazing stuff, great fun too..I've got that lens, it's amazing and lets in about 1.3 stops more light than the brilliant z50 f1.8s...

Have you tried installing the drivers it three times in different directories? Ie directory 1, directory 2, directory 3? Each will install their own com ports. I also have 3 setups, all independent, though, on my Edge HD's 8, 9.25, and 11 with their own eagles. The new long dove tails work fantastic and make it easier to use Celestron's dew shields. I love that I can take flats, darks, open, and close the caps. All I do is uncover the scopes, start the sequences I prepared for each, and cover them back up in the morning.

I've had mine for a long time - got it on kickstarter. Struggled to try to use it several times and gave up, there are just no instructions, especially as a beginner. Some youtube videos have helped a bit but I still can't figure out some things; the app that I see in the videos doesn't match what I see. I did finally get one image tonight but it wasn't what I was aiming for! Overall while I think it's a nice little device, there really needs to be directions provided.

Hey Steve, great results. Just wanted to know what is the max capacity you've used in this rig and would that make much difference if it is used upto it's max potential?

Good to see you back and getting better. Good idea to get those fences built to try and keep the triplets safe and secure.

You should paint it in Meade Blue :D ... just to make ppl a bit confused

Interesting.

I'd probably just wrap them as a safer bet to be honest mate as for colours I'm really clueless as to what to do them in, hope you're feeling better to mate take it easy & clear skies.

Steve , don't paint it , get them wrapped, I would worry about paint over spray or fumes ... Steve The Ignorant Astronomer.... That's my crappy little TH-cam channel..

Glad you're feeling better Steven. Exciting times for you! I'm a multi bar telescope user myself, a 10" LX200R and an ES127, so I have the blue and white motif going. I'm a little bit partial to the blue, but it requires a little more time to cool down.

Hmmm, I would not paint them at all, TBH i think its a bad idea….personally I would paint the dew shields to match the scope…but that’s just me….🤷🏼‍♂

Well, I have been thinking the same for my dual rasa. Either wrapping it, or ... what about Musou Black paint? It will look as dark as it can be, no reflections whatsoever. I use it for my other scope, a Newtonian self built , for the inner side of the tube only. But it would like very different on the outside of the RASA tubes!

White is always right.😂

I bought one and was very confusing to use not being knowledgeable with the whole thing. It just sits in my garage.

This "Telescope" has only an aperture of 24mm 1 inch yes you saw right 1 inch, and you will only get results with a Telescope that of a 1 inch of aperture.

Curious, does SynScan need to be launched prior to NINA everytime, or will NINA remember and just automatically connect?

What cable do you use to connect the SA to the AA+ please?

Great demo thanks

The center of the cluster looks a bit burned out, doesn't it?

Leg spreading, your knob and central shaft.. you can talk some Steve.. and dont be sticking your fingers in. I`ll be playing around with it a little bit tonight! 🥒

That's awesome.

Any chance of a dew shield that tries to minimize cable interference? Like those half moon pieces you can kind of route cables along. Love the concept just would prefer no spikes in my images as much as possible

Glad you got to see it! I am working on my photos to make some content as well.

This design had 10% of obstruction An optical designer will never design that way. First he will change cables for slim version for reducing vanes thickness. This is direct loss of star magnitude Then he will look at the design and find the true diagphramg position The ID shield at the front should not block the direct light , arcording Celestron choice of the size of the mirror . for memory 2 deg is equivalent to 1.5'' at 40'' This is a fast mirror much more than a refrector telescope which has a huge shield at the front... Why the RASA is built that way? because Celestron dosen't need to put a bigger Mirror to get a maximum field of light The Schmidt is nealrly at the focal plane , meaning half size of its Schmidt Camera in the 70th. A Schmidt camera is determiened by 3 numbers , the size of the Schmidt blade the size of the mirror anf the focal length which is half the size of the telescope!. Longer the distance of the mirror , bigger must be the mirror! . The RASA exists because new type of lenses like fluorite or ED are available on the market. Before it was military technology. Canon was the first with its Fluorite lens on the 300mm f2.8 in the 70th. Now there is no need to put a Schmidt blade at the radius of the mirror for big field pictures . Schmidt cameras or Slevogt telescopes are technology of the past. Now it is possible with some smart lenses at least 3 of them , one can gets the full field of light more than 2 degree of field ( 4 moons size) with stars of 3 at 5 microns of diameter despite of big obstruction and getting in bonus a flat field of few meters of radius. ideal for CCD sensors. I think the Rasa 8 is buily from the C 9.25 primary mirror. The Corrector reduces the final focus lenght to 16". Doesn't cost too much and the client had no idea what mean diffraction. Stars are 3 at 4 times the Airy spots but who cares..celestron is honnest to compare a picture done with its RASA and a true Professional Schmidt camera. Airy spot has nothing to do with telescope size but F/D . I mean Rasa could get even better image than the professional Schmidt camera in fact exept for power of resolution because this is derectly linked of the size of Schmidt blade . If someone understands this detail , he / she grabs the fact than the Schmidt blade is given the limitation of resolution not the focal length , The Shmidt blade should by no means be victime of obturation. . I understand about the idea of using 3D printing to build from bottom up pards to improve the support of the electronic and setup constants to the digital tratement of the picture . At least we know for certain the Schmidt blade will not break from the listed cameras compatible with the Rasa. Having slimmer cable alligned to a vane will reduce the impact of the vanes and the loss of light . My other concern is the diffraction spikes created by the printing pattern of the tube which must me removed and darkening to avoid ghost images on the Schmidt blade . I suggest Black Mars acrylic paint which is daker than musou for small angles like in astrnomy. Of course for photos made by objectives musou is better . When ideas look good in optical instrumentation is is wise to learn basic optics before...

Where in SA did you take this Steven? Amazing Timelapse. ❤

Amazing, really loved that - thanks for recording it.

We were so blessed to see this, last time I saw this so bright and so far North was in '89 yes I'm showing my age

Beautiful captures. It was certainly magical to witness.

Image great... lose the music

Unfortunately NE NSW was covered in cloud and rain, most of coastal NSW was the same. It did clear up by 11pm, last night, but the show was over. Had friends in Goondiwindi image it, heard that people were imaging at Uluru and in Townsville. Apparently this type of event and the latitudes it was seen at, was last recorded in 1932. So it is certainly a once in a lifetime experience.

😮😮😮

Fantastic 🤩🤩🤩

Hello from rainy NSW😢

Pretty.

Mate we had it here to right on my doorstep a sight we'd never thought we would ever see in our lifetimes, glad you guys got to see it to great timelapse clear skies!!

Stunning timelapse big fella. I managed to get it last night here in Southern Scotland but it took me by surprise by appearing to the south of me. I was trying to do a holy grail into the aurora and was looking north west when out of the twilight the lights danced to the south west. I'm just stitching the different vids together the now, knackered but still buzzing.

I was looking at Dwarf II as well as that ZWO Seestar and I ultimately ended up going for the Dwarf. Its a little rough around the edges on the software side of things, but overall I am extremely impressed with this little device. It sets up relatively easily in less than 5 minutes and you are off to take some amazing photos of space!!! Things I would like are a larger catalog of objects to look at, along with possibly things currently visible from my location, and I need the app improved so I don't have to keep entering the same settings each time I focus on a new target. Lastly, I believe the Dwarf should "park" itself before shutting down, like with the lenses down and lined up centered. It truly is a great little device overall!!!

Recently purchased the RASA 8 and ZWO EAF. Thanks for this video, I dislike the sprawl as well. Do you have a video on how you configured the focusing in NINA. If not would you consider doing a video of your settings?