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I have one of these, and instead of trying to fix it, I want to build a new brass chassis to replace it to avoid issues in the future. Are there any resources that could help me with that?

Fantastic upgrade 👍

Thanks for making this. Giving me a bit of hope and inspiration to build my own 👍🏼

Great video which has made me wanting to have a go. Can I ask as a novice what solder and tools do I need to put one together and where do you get them from? Thanks

Great techniques and presentation!

2:33 That's cuTTe(!) D: :3 <3

Thanks - I agree that it's worth every pound (!) Thanks for showing some of your railway too.

Wonderful model. Beatifully finished. Seeing it behind the GW 28xx, reminds me that a dynomometer car was used in the 1000t test trains from South Wales to London. It would of course been a GW built one.

Hi, great review of an amazing coach, I wonder how much this coach would cost if Bachmann produced it, thanks for sharing.

where do you get the electrical paint .

You do not have to use point motors. You can use wire in tube.

Excellent, but would not the job be a lot quicker and more accurate if you had some spacer jigs to hold the gauge in place?

Good video thank you. I am about to start 2 new full Comet kits (GWR 70ft carriages), having already done 2 kits and 4 overlay projects.

if you want to remove the back of the transfer you can brush paint a gloss varnish with some thinners over it.

Good video! Where did you get the smokebox door from for the Pannier? Just asking as I intend to make one from a BR Black pannier I have laying around.

Well I for one like the music. Makes the channel feel like it’s own brand. Congrats on the thousand btw 😁

Excellent slow running over your handmade points.

Fair assessment. I think the TTS range makes a far greater value proposition for diesel.

Well I’ve looked at some your previous vids and yep I like the background music as you say personal taste 😊 love it regards Fred

I've never minded the background music i thought it worked well with the videos.

I've always enjoyed the background track you've used before and I think it suits your style and personality very well. The Prairie looks fantastic, but the stalling at 2:24 was a bit of a Balsup. :)

Shame camera is too far away to see what you're doing,bye!

Great work and videoing . I always look forward to your posts .

Just found this video not long after being given two of these coaches by a neighbour who was clearing out his dad's house. Now for the challenge! Many thanks for the clarity of your work.

Nice work. Been looking forward to this final installement. I like your approach to modelling!! With transfers, i have learned to ensure I apply them to a gloss surface, preferably high gloss. As I say, excellent work.

Well done sir. The problem you had with priming brass is the oxide layer. To remove it you need Tesco white/distilled vinegar 30p ish a bottle. day 1 Leave the model overnight in a bath of the vinegar (kept warm). Day 2 Rinse in tap water, then de-ionised water, dry with hairdryer. Prime with Humbrol enamel matt white with added matt black to desired tone. 50/50 paint and Humbrol enamel thinner (a much bigger volume than required in anything you have to hand). Test spray every paint/thinner mix you use on cardboard. Spray model with an extremely light coat, so light that you can see through it, allow to dry near a radiator. Give it a coupl;e of hours and repeat the extremely light coat. Leave overnight near a radiator. Day 3 repeat the 2 light coats and leave near a radiator overnight. Day 4 store it somwhere clean, dry, warm and dust free for at least 4 weeks to cure. I only used enamel paints on my best friend's Stuart Turner live steam model engines 45 years ago that we built together and the paint looks as good as new. But acrylic will be ok on the enamel primed coaches. Airbrushing top tip example; You want to spray the side of a coach, set and test the airbrush so it can cover that size on a piece of card in 3 passes with a very light coat. Binning 6 pieces of badly sprayed carboard is a lot easier and cheaper than stripping the model back to Day 1 And I forgot the most important things- Do NOT use Halfords spray can or any acrylic primers or on brass or white metal. This is priming both inside and ouside of the model at the same time. NITRILE GLOVES AT ALL TIMES WHEN HANDLING CLEANED BRASS MODELS!!!!!!!!!!! Keep up the good work as you always give me..... OOOOOOOOO! I need to do that moments, that have been converted to done and WOW!

Truly is wonderful to see you’ve completed this beautiful kit! I have purchased a GWR slip coach kit from Comet Models a while back and used your videos as reference. You’ve certainly helped me a lot with how I approached it, and I’m glad to say I’ve actually nearly completed it (no paint yet sadly because I don’t have a suitable space for airbrushing and spray painting). Perhaps you should try having a go at Roxey Mouldings or London Road Model coaches next! Good luck to you on your next endeavours, whatever kit you choose to do next :D

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Thanks for an informative and well made video. Not sure if I will ever convert a split chassis loco but the info on making a DIY stay-alive will come in handy.

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Good review but why have the muzak? Extremely irritating.

Nice work! I used two to create a 2-car LSWR set - 42' + 45' brakes - a lot of razor saw work - new, non-clerestory [usually pronounced clear-story BTW] roof - SR green one side, BR crimson the other! Very versatile carriages - noted the bracelet - WWJ have done with these carriages? 😉

P>S> forgot to add dont forget to keep each motor brush tag away from the chassis sides.

Easy way i used to do it, strip chassis down, select a part of each chassis side and file a small part down usually on the top, enough to drill and tap a hole, 8 or 10 BA about 3 or 4 mm deep. Screw a brass screw into the hole until it bottoms and is tight in the hole. now cut the head off the screw leaving enough of the brass screw showing to solder a wire onto. You now have a proper electrical connection to each chassis side.

Excellent review, thank you. I'm surprised they are not authentic, they certainly look the part. I have built a number of the old Ratio kits, many years ago, which were GWR prototypes. I even got to cut and patch a few for variation. No longer have any sadly, lost in the mists of time. 👍👍👍👍

Interesting project. like your style, new sub 👍👍👍

Well, it might SEEM pricey, but you have done it yourself and delivered an excellent result. Even though I work in N, I find your work inspirational. Thank you.

Just spotted Model Railways Direct are doing the Hornby coaches for 50% off (19/10/22) @ £21.75 without lights, £28.75 with. No connection to me or my layout would be much less sparse.

If you fit the Hornby Roco-style couplings (about £10 for ten), a somewhat closer-coupled effect can be achieved. The 4-wheelers will still negotiate 1st radius reverse curves without buffer-locking (the 6-wheelers will still do this with the Hattons couplings), and no issues on reverse 2nd radius curves such as on crossovers. Any closer-coupling and the buffers would clash on curves, so prototypical close coupling would only work well on an end-to-end layout. These couplings also eliminate the slack present in the tension lock couplings, which really shows up when starting and stopping trains, and with slow running.

The extra footboards are supplied so the double footboards can be removed and replaced with just a single footboard, to represent how they would have appeared as in later life (well, maybe some of them, as probably most were broken up with double footboards still fitted).

The Hattons coaches don't have separately-fitted buffer heads - they are plastic, and are an integral part of the bufferbeam moulding (a part which is separate, but glued to the chassis), which can be seen when the body is removed from the chassis.

Thank you for a well balanced and informative review which I really enjoyed and I loved the quick reference to the “carpet based reviewer”. The layout is looking very good now with a good balance of stock and nicely observed scenic elements although I’m not sure about that bus on the over bridge.

Great video! Like the comparison- think I’ll make my paddy train of both (and a ratio kit or so) as a mix for the sake of variety!

A great review . I, too, was mystified by the apparent spare footboard and left it off . I was delighted by the detail , livery and finish of my Hattons GWR 6 wheel full brake . It may not be totally accurate but it is totally believable. I converted my 6 wheeler to EM gauge and so far it has not fallen off or over . I look forward to more of your posts Ken .

I sadly have to wait for batch 3 as that includes NER coaches

They are fab coaches. I did find the central wheel on my 6 wheel kept derailing. Had to just bend the running plate back a fraction as this was stopping that wheel set from moving side to side properly.

I’m a fan of these older models due to their detail plus a jack I’ve discovered in terms of use of highly conductive grease on the axle slots to make them run better and last longer. Interesting video - what decoder did you use?

Luckily I dont own any GWR locos. I only have early Western Region diesels. I just err towards LNER

Cracking project! Nice to see the parts are available from various suppliers too✌️👍😊

Awesome space