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Exactly. And I couldn’t find one locally that wasn’t made of plastic.

Oh interesting, I wonder why. Maybe to reduce back flow when you have to change the filter? 🤔 May be a smart move.

Right!?! Soil is heavy! 😂

I stand by it. For the cost, it’s exactly what I needed. Is it perfect? No. Is it as powerful as a machine three times its price? No. But I’ve had no issues with it beyond what I discussed in this video, and it fits my needs and my budget. About to head into my third spring using it and I don’t anticipate any issues.

Leaks on the bottom of what part?

@@lumberingshenanigans of the water heater, sorry lol

It’s at the connections we have tried tightening with a wrench and with our hands and it’s still leaking

Did you use plumber's tape on the connections?

@@lumberingshenanigans yes we used tape and the pipe connected glue neither worked

Hi, thanks, I'm glad it was helpful. The Brush Axe I use here (and in many videos) is my favorite outdoor tool of all, this exact model I bought 15 years ago isn't made anymore, but the new version is here: amzn.to/3LF6elS - It's concept of combining a hooked pull-knife, a nicely weighted chopping tool, with a blunt hammer style tip is very useful in the forest. It’s based on the Woodman's Pal: amzn.to/42vTLaY which is a WWII era design and is still made in the USA today, but is considerably more costly. I do own a Woodman's Pal, but I prefer the lighter stainless steel Elk Ridge version as my everyday carry. These links are Amazon affiliate links, purchases made through these links may result in a small contribution to the channel at no additional cost to you. Thank you.

That’s a great idea. I always pile extra branches and logs on the outside of fences to dissuade deer from trying to jump even a 6-8ft fence. Plus it’s a great way to create habitat and sequester carbon. 👏

That’s a great suggestion for a garden or micro-farm setting, but I have a feeling my canopy is too dense for them to compete with the blackberries. And if they might thrive, I would be hesitant to introduce a potentially invasive self propagating species into such a wild setting. There are some horror stories of holly and bamboo invasions in the area and I don’t want to be that guy. 😏 So dead hedges are probably a safer option in my setting.

It’s still exactly the same… what a year and a half later. I’m kind of surprised.

Good idea! I’ve been thinking about adding wheel weights also, like I have on my BCS two wheel tractor. Just bolting a couple of 10lb gym plates on each wheel would make a huge difference I think.

It’s funny, I did a whole video (never posted) about how pallet wood mostly isn’t great, but “dunnage” wood can be an excellent source of good free lumber, even treated 2x4s etc. It’s the wood that lumber yards receive between and on top of pallet loads from lumber mills, used to protect the stock. Usually free if you ask. No nails. No dismantling. Just free lumber in 3-4ft lengths. I made my wooden doormat with them in a very early video.

This was my first time using pulleys. Ever. So I was in no position to be teaching anyone how to do it. But there are dozens of extremely detailed how to videos on here if you look. Good luck!

Two very good suggestions! For drainage I unscrew the filter (which is at the lowest point) open all the faucets, and everything drains easily. I’d like to do an air blast too, but I don’t have a compressor.

I know women older than me who could outpace me on this rig, and I know men half my age who’d be hopeless. It’s all up to you, good gloves, don’t rush, and get it done before the branches become hard and brittle. Or check out my dead-hedging video, that’s another way to “get rid of” unwanted branches and stuff.

I think there was oil included in the box, but honestly I have no memory of it. If they didn’t include any I would check the maintenance/instructions.

The BEST fatwood does. Even different pine types have different levels of goodness. But any resin rich evergreen will produce resin rich wood at stumps and joints. Same way Sugar Maple has the BEST syrup, but any Maple (Acer), and many other species can also be tapped for syrup. Hickory, Birch, etc.

I honestly don’t know. A lot of this shower was built around hand-me-downs, including the structure and the heater. But I probably spent $200 on electrical, maybe $500 on pump, filter, plumbing and fittings. That’s a guess though.

Good question! I put a link to it in the description.

In theory it’s supposed to reduce the cycle frequency and wear on the pump, provide a more consistent and predictable pressure, and reduce noise. But it’s one of those things, I read about it and went for it without really knowing if it was necessary in my setup, so it may be overkill. 😏 As a side note, I originally started reading up on them when I was designing an irrigation system, most irrigation timers require pressure to open the valve, and pumps need a pressure drop to know when to start and stop, so without a tank maintaining pressure the system won’t function. Catch 22.

Sure, it’s a very simple setup. One panel, one 12v 100Ah battery, and a super cheap controller. Renogy has the kit for $99 (minus battery) Affiliate link: amzn.to/4cgeAfZ

I’m glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching. :)

Thank you! Some very solid advice on both counts. And since I already have that staking tool, doing a little chamfer would have been super easy. Next time for sure! 👍

Hey thanks for watching. I’m not sure, I think the number of blades vs strength of the motor vs the angle of the blades all worth together and affect airflow in a delicate balance only an engineer can figure out. I’ve seen five and six blade fans, bigger and smaller fans, double header fan. I assume fundamentally there’s a limit to how much air can be moved by the energy created by the heat of the stove. ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Thanks! Glad you found it useful. Before you head to the store, check out my follow up video after the first winterization. I upgraded the filter to a 1 micron carbon filter. Thanks for watching!

Thanks for sharing. If anyone else wants to check out the video @kiaya007 is talking about it's this one: th-cam.com/video/hVTf_31NwqA/w-d-xo.htmlsi=uoJVmwhwqmCQnAYr - it's definitely a simpler option if you want to just throw something quick together out of 2x4s. There's nothing revolutionary about a wooden frame with a wire mesh stapled to it, and you can do it however you like. I expect mine will last a little longer than Joe's, but then again... his is simple enough you can just make a new one every year or two. Thanks for the recommendation! And thanks for watching. :)

Yay! I’m glad. Feel free to come back and share a post if you build something cool. Thanks for watching! :)

Wow. Thank you. 🙏 I really appreciate the support. :)

Sounds like you’re much more resourceful than I am. Good job finding Chaga, I don’t think we get that over here in the PNW. Thanks for watching and commenting. 🪓

Clamps are the best!!! Thanks for watching. :)

I’m no expert, and it’s definitely not as instantly combustible as root-ball fatwood, which I have yet to attack on this tree. But anywhere the resin collects will be fat in the right species.

That is a very clever idea and a great suggestion. I’ll give that a try next time if I stick to the nail idea. I’m still on the fence (pun intended) about bolt vs nail. And with a pilot hole it’ll be time vs cost. Thanks for taking the time to share your advice. :)

.@@lumberingshenanigans You're welcome.

Hey, thanks for the question. It’s been a while so I’m not sure if any of these details show up in earlier “rain catchment” episodes, but in brief… the pump could certainly pull water from a barrel, even uphill several feet if it had to. But I think I’m doing exactly what you want to do, with the barrel at ground level and the pump slightly higher, with a hose spigot running under the building and back up through the floor. The rain barrel is about 3ft tall, so a full barrel will be pushing a fair amount of pressure without the pump anyway. I hope that helps. Feel free to ask for clarification if not and I’ll do my best. Thanks for watching!

And the two episodes from way back when I originally built the rain catchment might have some useful info too: Building a Rain Catchment System - Part 1 th-cam.com/video/ZZAxIedY3SQ/w-d-xo.html Building a Rain Catchment System - Part 2 th-cam.com/video/gTo9q2zSX2Y/w-d-xo.html

@@lumberingshenanigans Thank you so much for the info! Sounds like I'm on the right track. I think I watched your rain catchment vid, but will review those again as well. Keep up the great content.

This particular flue mounted fan isn’t adjustable at all, and I don’t see any that are. But you can mount it at whatever height you like on your flue. Most of them seem to be aimed at 5-6 inch flues, but they might work for your 4 inch. I’d say if your stove can boil water, there should be enough heat to power the fan. And remember it’s about the difference between the front and back temperature that creates the electricity, so a colder exterior will require less heat on the back end to generate the same current. This double headed one looks cool: amzn.to/3SfnLFN Good luck!

LOL - Yup, the lack of engine noise is the number one reason. Followed by the lack of exhaust smell. Followed by the lack of needing to get gas and carry it. Followed by my lack of engine servicing know-how. I’m sure the list goes on and on. Thanks for being the first person to agree with me. 😎

🥁 🙄

You might be able to fit the 208cc engine on there, but that’s barely a step up from the 196cc, probably not worth the cost. The same stock unit with that engine is almost double the price. After that you’re better off just buying a bigger machine I think, like the 5”or 7” versions. But I don’t need that kind of power, nor do I want to spend that kind of money. 😂 Thanks for watching!

You’re right! I actually didn’t install the water heater myself, it came with the structure as donated by my neighbors. But it vents up through the roof with a 6” or 4” pipe I forget which. I think you can see it in the episode where I install the gutters for the rain catchment system.

Ha! I know exactly the kind of videos you mean! 🤣 Thank you for watching and commenting.

Exactly!! I’m glad you get it. There’s no point having tools if you don’t put them to work making stuff. Which reminds me… I really need to get back into the habit of making stuff… and filming it. 🤣

Thank you. Kind words. I hope it was helpful. Thanks for watching. :)

That’s an interesting point. I’m not a thermal dynamics expert, but I assume many who are have been involved in the development of these fans over the hundred+ years, and I would hope they’ve found the sweet spot by now. One thing I’ll point out is that there is no regulator between the Peltier element and the motor, or gearing between the motor and the fan. It’s all direct current and direct drive. Heat - Air Temp = Voltage = Speed. So the heat of the stove combines with the temperature of the air in the room and the resulting efficiency of the Peltier element translates directly to the speed of the fan in some kind of beautiful self-regulating ballet. A roaring fire in a cold room will create more airflow, a low fire in a warmer room will create far less. That sounds about right to me. Either way these fans are amazing and keep my little camper snug and cozy. 😌 Thanks for checking out the video. :)

Oh, that’s an interesting idea I hadn’t thought of. Thanks! Something to play with over winter. :)

I’m so glad people are finding my videos useful. Make sure you give the comments a read too, there have been some helpful contributions from the community. Thanks for watching! :)